开云体育

I'll have to take a look at mine. I do know they're factory because the buckles
have "JEEP" embossed on them. Same eyebolt arangement you describe.

Glenn

Frank Wood wrote:

From: Frank Wood <ftwood@...>

Didn't Captain Dan ask about seat belts last week? I took a look at mine
tonight. I'm 99.9% sure they are factory. They are mounted to the floor
of the cab with eyebolts. Plates have been added underneath with nuts
fixed in place to receive the bolts. Very thin plates I might add. The
seat belts were made by ALOFS MFG. CO. of Grand Rapids, Michigan. Brand
Name of ALOFS LYFE-BELT and ALOFS LYFE-LOK, model number A5100. I guess
either they couldn't spell back then or we can't spell now. Don't know if
ALOFS is still around. Hey Glenn Dudley, does your 6-230 have ALOFS
LYFE-LOKs?

--
Glenn Dudley (gdudley@...) Lewiston, Maine

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and
make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly
right or good enough." - Sir Henry Royce, co-founder of Rolls Royce

In a message you said your sedan is powered by a ford 289, C4 auto and
ford rear end. I have the same power train in my 47 wagon except I need
to replace the rear end. What type ford fits and what ratio do you
recommend. There no point in me experimenting when you have already
found what works.
Jerry Stoper

Dave,

Cool Jeep! It looks in really very nice shape!

Sean
'48 CJ-2A


David H. Hatch - N9ZRT wrote:

From: "David H. Hatch - N9ZRT" <oslc@...>

Willys friends,

I have put a little page together for you to meet my Jeep, and
two passengers.



As some of you may know, this Jeep has an interesting story. It was
owned by a mechanic who won 9 million in the lottery a few years
back. With his money he bought antique cars [Favorite: Kaiser
Frazers]. He bought this Jeep, but never drove it. When he ran out of
room, he got the itch to sell it. I happened to be there. Read more
of that on the web page.

Thanks for welcoming me to the Willys list! You have all been so very
helpful already.

Dave Hatch

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--
Sean R. Kerns (aka Snake)
e-mail: music@...
Bloodspoint Studio - Home of Stalking Horse

Willys friends,

I have put a little page together for you to meet my Jeep, and
two passengers.



As some of you may know, this Jeep has an interesting story. It was
owned by a mechanic who won 9 million in the lottery a few years
back. With his money he bought antique cars [Favorite: Kaiser
Frazers]. He bought this Jeep, but never drove it. When he ran out of
room, he got the itch to sell it. I happened to be there. Read more
of that on the web page.

Thanks for welcoming me to the Willys list! You have all been so very
helpful already.

Dave Hatch

Didn't Captain Dan ask about seat belts last week? I took a look at mine
tonight. I'm 99.9% sure they are factory. They are mounted to the floor
of the cab with eyebolts. Plates have been added underneath with nuts
fixed in place to receive the bolts. Very thin plates I might add. The
seat belts were made by ALOFS MFG. CO. of Grand Rapids, Michigan. Brand
Name of ALOFS LYFE-BELT and ALOFS LYFE-LOK, model number A5100. I guess
either they couldn't spell back then or we can't spell now. Don't know if
ALOFS is still around. Hey Glenn Dudley, does your 6-230 have ALOFS
LYFE-LOKs?

Oh I almost forgot, since Captain Dan has his new Super Saturn Five
Overdrive going ballistic over the Hood, I guess he'll need some four point
heavy duty harness action to keep him in his seat. I'm jealous.
Cheers,
Frank


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Hey Bob, is that an original manual? I have a J-Series Service Manual
that covers the Tornado but it doesn't have a Form SM-1009-R1 on it. How
bout the parts breakdown? Are these reprints I could buy somewhere? Does
either per chance have a nice big color glossy airbrushed centerfold of a
Tornado engine bay I could hang on my garage wall?
Cheers,
Frank

----------
From: Robert Stewart[SMTP:rstewart@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 1998 9:39 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WillysTech] Re: T-90

From: "Robert Stewart" <rstewart@...>

My 6-230 manual is Form SM-1009-R1 Copyright 1962. Tittle is Service
Manual Jeep Tornado 230 Engine.
Bob

----------

From: wohleb <wohleb@...>
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WillysTech] Re: T-90
Date: Friday, October 16, 1998 10:00 AM

From: wohleb <wohleb@...>

At 09:12 PM 10/15/98 -0500, you wrote:

From: "Robert Stewart" <rstewart@...>

Ron,
I have a 6-230 engine manual if you have any engine questions. I also

have

a parts breakdown that covers the 230 wagons also. I will look at them

to

see if I can answer your question later tonight.
Bob
60/62 6-230 EXP.

Can you tell us where you got that manual????
Rob


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By the way, how's the crow-burger taste? ;)

Mmmmmm, taste like chicken.....

--

-Mitch Utsey

Munch on, my friend!
Dave

I've been by there often. They also have at least one jeepster as well.
Mighty fine looking. Speaking of places to visit.... there's a place east
of Kansas City that has a whole yard full of jeeps. Been meaning to drop in
and look 'em over. Don's Steak House is still on my list of things to do.
-rus

Does anybody know when the intake hole first appeared on the front grille?
Paul Barry's restoration guide implies 1957. Looking at Steve's new to
him '55, it has the intake hole but who's to say if it's original. And was
the screen painted the same color as the vehicle? Just wondering about
trivia while I wait on my chassis.


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Rus,
There is a 50 something wagon in Lawrence that can be had for, I
think around $700. It was all origional with the 4 cyl engine and it
dod have an overdrive in the drive train. It was restorabe but would
require a frame off to do it well. It is in a car lot that specializes
in old vehicles on the East side of Lawrence on the south side of 10
highway. It is right by Don's Steak House. (they have incredible
steaks there)
If you need more info than that, let me know and I will try to get a
name and phone number.
Rus Curtis wrote:

Dave and Robin Samuelson wrote:

By the way, how's the crow-burger taste? ;)

Mmmmmm, taste like chicken.....

--

-Mitch Utsey

I'm just worried about being nekkid
and neck deep in the Nile while some
Egyptian sails by Saying, " Hey,
where's all your stuff?"

-David Mandeville

Did Roman Medics refer to IV's as 4's?

What do little birdies see when they are knocked unconscious?

Think Globally, act tactically

Does anyone have a spare inside windshield center metal divider post for
a 1947 Willys Wagon. If so let me know the cost.
Thanks, Jerry Stoper

No Jeff , you don't put a blade on the wheel... A buzz rig is a stand alone
belt operated saw.. The wheel just provides the power... I also have a PTO
on the rear with a drum for a belt... But I don't think Rick in Texas had
the PTO.. By the way, extended lugs and a smaller rim on the outside of
the front or rear power wheel makes a great winch. (providing your engine
still runs )

Stephen_J_Perialas@... wrote:

From: Stephen_J_Perialas@...

To Rick in the AirForce..... You didn't tell your wife an untruth.. You
could have jacked up the rear end, taken off a wheel, replaced it with a
rim only, put a belt on it attach to pump pulley, and the willys will pump
the basement... I have done it many times ... Works great to buzz wood with
also...

So what, you bolt a circular saw blade to the hub? Actually, this is
one of the reasons that I want to score a PTO with a rear output as well
so that I can get set up for all sorts of bizarre things powered off the
back (winch, log splitter, etc.) I like the pump idea as well. Hmmm...
it may be possible with the full floater D60 to leave the wheel in place
and just bolt up to the axle flange/hub bolts.

Jeff
So many ideas, so little time.

--
=======================================================================
Jeff Gent, jeffgent@... FoJ#0019 KC7PVZ
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm not an engineer, but I play one at work
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
'84 V65 Sabre -- Hondaline fairing and Krauser
Hardbags
'62 Willys Wagon -- painfully slow frame up in progress
'82 Honda Civic -- 190K miles and going strong
=======================================================================

Ron, if u use the water pump on the jeep you willneed a filter otherwise
you could suck up alot of junk and clog themotor. BUT it does work. My
sail boat has an emergency siphon that connects to a "Y" valve with 2
inch hose and filter (marine store) to use as emergency bilge pump
should I be taking on water and the other pumps cann't handle it. (Here
in Seattle it rains but not all of a years worth in one day). You could
put cat fish in the basement and eat fresh fish for a while. Dirt Man

To Rick in the AirForce..... You didn't tell your wife an untruth.. You
could have jacked up the rear end, taken off a wheel, replaced it with a
rim only, put a belt on it attach to pump pulley, and the willys will pump
the basement... I have done it many times ... Works great to buzz wood with
also...

I was thinking about how restoring a jeep to stock is a money saving
investment.

The following savings is listed in a per/year basis with a lifetime
total at the bottom.

This is partially based on the knowledge that if we did not have
jeeps, we would be driving late model Corvettes.

* Insurance savings over Corvette $2235.79
* Accessory parts shopping savings $1765.98
* Tow truck savings when stuck $ 546.08
* Drive train repair savings over Corvette $6567.08
* Gas saved on not returning some accessories $ 128.56
* Tree stump revoval fee savings $ 212.87
* Tow truck savings when spouse-car is stuck $ 253.24
* Rental truck fee savings [rented trailer instead] $ 348.98
* Lic plate savings [Old plates are one time fee] $ 45.00
* Gas savings over Corvette use $5898.76
* Speeding ticket savings over Corvette use $ 500.00
* New tire savings over Corvette use $ 400.76
* Hot Rod magazine subscription saving $ 35.00
* Corvette annual loss of value $4000.00
* Safe passage ability in life/death situations Imeasurable
==========================================================
Bad at math and too poor to buy a calculator Total= ALOT!

I am certain I missed something.

Dave

My 6-230 manual is Form SM-1009-R1 Copyright 1962. Tittle is Service
Manual Jeep Tornado 230 Engine.
Bob

----------

From: wohleb <wohleb@...>
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WillysTech] Re: T-90
Date: Friday, October 16, 1998 10:00 AM

From: wohleb <wohleb@...>

At 09:12 PM 10/15/98 -0500, you wrote:

From: "Robert Stewart" <rstewart@...>

Ron,
I have a 6-230 engine manual if you have any engine questions. I also

have

a parts breakdown that covers the 230 wagons also. I will look at them

to

see if I can answer your question later tonight.
Bob
60/62 6-230 EXP.

Can you tell us where you got that manual????
Rob


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Subject: Re: L134 slow turnover

Dave,

Mine was always like that with 6v, which was consistent with my other
experience with 6V cars, so I considered it normal.
I recently converted to 12V, and it is much faster to crank now.
Used to be if I didn't get it to catch in the first couple of tries, it was
jump-start time. Now it works great.
If I can just get an exhaust and some tires on it, I'll be in great shape.

Sean
'48 CJ-2A

Just a word or two about using 6v starters on 12 volt systems.

First of all, yes, the starter will work as is. Yes, it will get hot
quicker, much hotter. Yes, it will work for a while if your motor is
well-tuned and you don't have to grind on the starter. BUT there is a
potentially *big* problem if the Bendix drive doesn't engage the ring gear
on the flywheel.

It's kind of complicated, but when an electric motor is running, the
rotating armature (technically the "rotor") has electric current flowing
through it which is proportional to the applied voltage and an opposing
voltage called the "back EMF" that is generated in the windings by the fact
that they are cutting the magnetic field produced by the field coils (the
"stator"). A rotor will turn at the RPM required to create a back EMF that
is equal to the applied voltage, taking into account the work being done by
the rotor. Skipping all the physics, this happens at an RPM that is
determined by several factors, the primary ones being the number of turns in
the rotor, the current flowing though them, the work being done, and the
strength of the magnetic field. If no work is being done, this RPM can be
quite high. A properly designed motor can run unloaded at its rated voltage
and the various parts of the rotor will be strong enough to withstand the
centrifugal forces that are trying to make it fly apart.

If you double the applied voltage, the system will establish equilibrium at
whatever RPM it takes to make the back EMF equal the applied voltage, again
taking into account any work being done. If the starter is craning the
motor, the load will keep the RPM low enough so there is no danger of things
flying apart, which is why there is no problem *unless the Bendix doesn't
engage the flywheel gear*. If this happens, the motor will run virtually
unloaded (only friction and wind drag will supply the load), and the RPM
will be quite high - possibly high enough so that the centrifugal force
tears the armature apart!

Some of this can be mitigated by design choices. I think that the early
jeep motors were what is called "shunt wound," which means that the fields
are in parallel with the armature. If that's the case, the increased
voltage will cause more current to pass through the field coils, which makes
more magnetic field, which means that the armature doesn't have to turn as
fast to reach equilibrium. Still, the equilibrium point may be at too high
an RPM, and cause the armature to fail. The strength of the field is
proportional to the current flowing through the coil, and the number of
turns of wire in it. A field wound for 6 volts may not have sufficient
number of turns to produce the necessary magnetic flux required to keep the
armature RPM at a safe level, even with the increased voltage.

When I converted my jeep over to 12 volts, I took the starter motor down to
a good "automotive electric shop" and had it completely gone through (new
bearings, brushes, turn the commutator, etc.). When they had it apart, I
had them rewind the fields so that they produce the proper magnetic field at
12 volts that will keep the unloaded RPM within safe limits. It will not
keep the armature from overheating if I crank for too long, but it will keep
it from flying apart if the bendix doesn't catch. They charged me $35 extra
for rewinding the fields. I feel it was well worth it.

Just my two cents worth.


Jerry

Dave,
The man's right.
The damage you will (potentially) do to your ring gear is not worth the
hassle of running a 6 volt starter on a 12 volt system.
Especially when there is no need to do so.
I have seen lots of good 6 volts sytems start for years and years.
The secret is in the good circuitry and ensuring that no "lash" is
being experinced by the shafts due to poor bearings or bushes.
If you really feel the need to go to 12 volts - then do as Jerry has done
OR - insert a resistor that allows and intial 7.5 volts to pass through to
the starter when you hit the solenoid and then opens to allow the starter
to work at 12 volts when the bendix is engaged.
My $A0.02c worth <chuckle>
You confused now mate<grin>?
All the best,
Ben.

From: Merl <hollow@...>

I've posted before on a mysterious noise in my drive-train. It happens
primarily when rolling to a stop, its inconsistant but when it happens
its like a low vibration or rumble...like a loose bearing or a loose
gear on a shaft. To make a long story short, I think I've found the
source and I need a bit of advice.

The noise seems to be comming from my Spicer-18 transfer case,
specifically from the "output shaft gear" (I'm getting all these names
from my repro shop manual, the blow-up picture of the transfer case).
This gear is *very* wobbly on the "output shaft". After isolating
the noise to the transfer case and taking the pan off, I can jiggle
this gear on the shaft a LOT. Putting a little rotational preasure
on this gear, the teeth that mesh into the larger intermediate gear
actually slide backwards and forwards almost 1/8 of an inch. I took
the pan off of another transfer case I've got just to compare, and
it isn't near as wobbly as the one in the Jeep...so I've got a high
confidence level that this is indeed my problem.

Sounds like the bearings need to be replaced Merl<grin>. I'm only grinning
because the answer to your second question is Nope!!.
Pull it down buddy and do the job "proper" (as they say in the classics).
Now, if you have done the bearings you may need to Vernier the bearing
hole in the case to see if its allowing the cone to move too much. I hope
it's not that mate.
Does this help?
All the best,
Ben.

My question is, can the "output shaft gear" and perhaps the "output
shaft" itself be replaced without removing the whole transfer case?
The intermediate shaft was replaced about 1000 miles ago, and I believe
it to be in good shape. Everything else up there looks to be OK,
just this one wobbly gear so I hate to take the whole thing down.

Any advice is appreciated, TATIA (Thanks A Ton In Advance).

Merl

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