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Re: Painting
Merl
Kendal Jackson wrote:
Reed gives some excellent advice. I'll add that I'm painting my M38A1 now, its sort of an ongoing thing. The reasons I went this way were... - "Some assembly required" on my project. Lots of little bits and pieces, all supposed to be olive drab. The only way I could figure to get all of these pieces painted (without doing it myself) would be to take it all in a giant pile to a paint shop, get them painted, and work out some type of storage system where I can keep them safe from harm until I'm ready for that part. I can just imagine the look on a painter's face if I'd brought in all of these separate pieces and parts loaded in the back of my pickup... body tub, fenders, every small plate and screw piled high in boxes... Just like a cartoon his eyeballs would turn into dollar signs. Doing it myself I can do a little at a time, and not have to store and worry about messing up a part that got painted a month ago that I haven't gotten around to putting on yet. - Reassembly gotchas causing scratches & gouges. Considering the number of thumbs I have this is inevitable, but I can also go back and fix them myself. - Attention to detail. I can also see those dollar signs racking up when I tell the paint guy to "be extra careful when you paint the bezels of the gauges, and don't get any paint on this bit of rubber or that bit of glass" etc, etc. - Military paint is cheap. $30 per gallon. In effect I can buy 3-5 gallons of this stuff for the price of one gallon of "normal" paint. - Intended use. I intend to take this thing into the bush and I'm not going to baby it. Being able to use a matching color rattle can to make the latest scratch or scrape less noticeable or less prone to rust really appeals to my cheesier nature. (The military colors come in matching rattle cans, the Gilespe brand has a very good match with the color that comes by the gallon.) Like Reed says, don't expect professional results. But I'd also add that this isn't brain surgery we're talking about and if I can do it anyone can. My results are not professional but only you, I, and the professional painters know that (don't tell anyone on the WillysTech list, they think my last name is Schieb!). Joe Dailycommuter can't tell a difference. If you plan to paint more than one vehicle one time or simply WANT to do it yourself go for it. If its just a one shot thing and/or you want to be able to use your glassy smooth finish as a mirror for shaving then have a professional do it. -- "Never pound on the threaded **** end of *anything*!" ** ** ** mailto:hollowel@... ** Merl **** |
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Introduction ...
Jordan Franklin
Hello All ...
I finally have worked up the nerve to introduce myself, after a period of silently spying on the list. I have a '54 (based on the serial number) pickup. The truck came to me, here in the land of the cheeseheads, by way of some horse trading my father-in-law pulled off in Montana. It seems to be more or less complete. The motor (an F134) was seized but upon disassembly freed-up. The poor thing had suffered a bad case of indigestion from what appeared to be, from the pit marks in the number four piston and head, a lock washer. It is amazing how those parts can get through an air filter, isn't it? My aim is to rehabilitate the truck so my sons can drive it when the time comes, I only have four years so I best get at it, huh? Now for the real reason the waves of intestinal foritude have overcome my fears of public redicule for asking dumb questions or worse yet making even dumber remarks, the QUEST FOR KNOWLEDGE. I will try to hold it to just a few questions for now. Well here goes. 1) When I pulled the head from the previously mentioned F-head, I found two, count'em two, head gaskets neatly squashed in place. This made me wonder, was the block or head planed?, was the extra gasket there for piston to head clearance?, or did somebody forget to pull the old one? I went to the "Service Manual for 'Jeep' Utility Vehicles" I got from Orginal Reproductions but was unable to find mention of the crankshaft to deck height or the piston to head clearance. Can I measure the block or head some how to determine if they have been planed? At top dead center where should the piston be in relation to the top of the block? I need to find out if the block can be salvaged or if other option must be considered. 2) Since I have the motor out and I thought now would be a good time to evaluate the condition of the transmission and the transfer case. Since the thing came to me in "not-running" condition, I don't know if it squacked, werred, or made any other noise. I don't really want to disassemble the things if I don't have to but can I get a sense of the condition of the thing? Thanks in advance ... Jordan |
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Re: series of A's
Mark May
On the F-head block the factory stamped letters on the deck adjacent to
each cylinder. I assumed they were related to customizing the rings at the factory for when the machine shop "oversizes" that particular cylinder. My F-head blocks have mostly B's and C's. Mark (4) F-heads and a 304 |
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Re: Teenagers
Kendal Jackson
Most of you may no know this but I bought Hugh for my teenage daughter so
that she would not destroy our Toyota. I think it the perfect car for a first time driver. Wont go fast, so solid that I truly pity anything that it gets in an accident with and it has a cool factor that cant be beat (at least for me). She of course wants a '57 pink Caddilac convertible. Kendal Jackson --It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm really quite busy-- |
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Re: How do you remove the OD
Kendal Jackson
At 08:56 AM 6/22/99 -0700, you wrote:
Next time you change the oil in the xfer you might try using theI have been searching high and low for this product. Where are you getting it? Kendal Jackson --It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm really quite busy-- |
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Re: Buick 225/231 front axle clearance, now burst oil filter
Bill Lagler
"K. R." wrote:
AFAIK this only happens to swapped in V6's, not the factory installed ones. The problem is with the direction of the oil filter mount. From memory (maybe not quite right) the OEM V6 has the filter coming off the right front corner of the motor at about a 45 deg angle but level. Most of the car engines have the filter pointed more straight forward, 30 deg maybe, and angled down, right at the front pumpkin. Hit a good bump and suddenly you're pumping your oil on the ground. I'll take a look at my jeeps tonight and try to get some measurments. Bill 47cj2a, swapped in V6 70CJ5, factory V6 |
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Master Cylinder
Gary Parobeck
When I got my 63 CJ5 it was in pieces. Took three trips to get it home. I am in the process of restoring it and putting it back together. My current puzzle is the master cylinder. It was completely a part, the bushings, springs, etc were all gone. The rebuild kit I have doesn't include assembly details. My manual only includes the assembly for the Double Safety Master Cylinder. Mine is the old single cylinder that bolts to the frame under the floor. I have it together but have one part left over and I am not sure where it goes. It is a small rubber washer about 1" outside dia. 1/2" inside diameter and 1/8" thick. I can't seem to find the right spot for this and the assembly is packed in so tightly already I am not sure if it is required. Any help? Do any of you have an assembly drawing for this type of cylinder?
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Re: Buick 225/231 front axle clearance, now burst oil filter
Chuck Pedretti
Sounds fun, I am already planning on a remote filter because it looks like
the oil filter may hit the front differential on full compression. I don't think that I have to worry about the timing cover hitting, It is behind the axle. "The relief valve on Jeep V6 engines frequently_________________________________ Chuck Pedretti MCSD, MCSE Consultant Magenic Technologies mailto:chuckp@... _________________________________ (46 CJ) _________________________________ |
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Re: Buick 225/231 front axle clearance
Chuck Pedretti
I wish I'd measured mine while it was in. I stuck it in temporarily to get
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the motor mount locations marked, took some pictures but forgot to take out the tape measure. _________________________________ Chuck Pedretti MCSD, MCSE Consultant Magenic Technologies mailto:chuckp@... _________________________________ (46 CJ) _________________________________ -----Original Message----- |
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Re: starter bushing removal
K. R.
--- Arne Anderson <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Arne Anderson <[email protected]>Dear Arne, In the 2A FAQ's, there is a little info, under the engine section. The two methods mentioned are either a puller set, or some of them have a hole on the backside allowing you to use a brass drift. Assuming you don't have a puller set, or a convenient hole for a brass drift, here is one more option. Get a dowel which is a close fit inside the bushing. Wrap it with electrical tape until you can get a nice snug fit. Put a little grease in the bottom of the bushing cavity. Insert this handy dandy tool and percuss lightly with your favorite hammer. The hydraulic action in a closed chamber will usually free the bushing. I've used this on clutch pilot bearings, etc. and can vouch for it. The tighter a fit you can get the better. Place a rag over it in case some grease shoots out. There is even a fancy version available somewhere which has various size locking plugs with zerks on them, and use you use a grease gun for the hydraulic pressure. But this method is almost free. Hope this helps, Vern 48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at |
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Re: Spicer T 18 case
In a message dated 6/22/99 12:22:23 PM Central Daylight Time, grover@...
writes: << I don't want to confuse people, but this is a retitle of a divergent thread... Morris, Do you know which vehicles had the 1-1/8" verses the 1-1/4" intermediate shaft? I have a Spicer 18 in my 49 pickup which I am assuming would be the earlier 1 1/8". It is in good shape (I think). I have a Spicer 18 in my 1960 wagon that I am hoping is the 1 1/4". The wagon has a 302 and I'm considering swapping the T-90 to something stronger. The t-case has slack in it. I know this is bad. :-( Since the wagon is currently my daily driver, I was thinking of pulling the t-case from the pickup and putting it into the wagon, while I take time to rebuild the wagon's t-case. I am considering doing the AA bearing upgrade. All this assumes that the t-case in the wagon is the larger shaft version that stands a better chance of taking the power of the 302. Otherwise, I think I should be looking for a different t-case. I guess it will be obvious when I get brave enough to actually start pulling gear boxes out. I hate to get my daily driver apart to discover I can't put it back on the road immediately. (It gives fuel to the other side in the family debate about the reasonableness of buying old Jeeps.) Rick G. in AZ >> Rick, It's easy to tell which T-case you have by taking ruler under there with you and measure the width of the intermediate shaft. They are easy to get to from the rear without removing anything and there's enough difference in size that they would be hard to confuse. The intermediate shaft is the one in the middle with the keeper. Thanks again for the plug on your web page. Rick S (TX) |
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Re: Buick 225/231 front axle clearance, now burst oil filter
K. R.
--- Bill Lagler <wbl@...> wrote:
From: Bill Lagler <wbl@...>snip Dear V6 Owners, I came across this in an automotive textbook recently and thought you might be interested. "The relief valve on Jeep V6 engines frequently becomes stuck in the closed position when driving off-road. This is caused by the front axle housing rising and denting the aluminim timing chain cover which contains the oil pump assembly. The result is a burst oil filter" Copied from Automotive Engine Rebuilding, by James G. Hughes. It sounds like your engine may be a bit further back, closer to the pulley instead of the cover. Be careful either way. The burst V6 oil filter sounds vaguely familiar from the WT list several months ago. That could interesting really quickly. Hope this helps, Vern 48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at |
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Re: 53 m38a1 gear ratio
Mark May
the easiest way to determine axle ratio is to jack up one rear wheel,
put the tranny in neutral, mark both the tire and driveshaft. rotate the tire about 20 times and count the number of times the driveshaft rotates. axle ratio is driveshaft rotations divided by wheel rotations, and multiply this number by two. that is your axle ratio. i believe all cj's before the v6's came along in 65 were 5.38 gears. someone correct me if i'm wrong. mark may |
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Re: Spicer T 18 case
Richard Grover
I don't want to confuse people, but this is a retitle of a divergent
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thread... Morris, Do you know which vehicles had the 1-1/8" verses the 1-1/4" intermediate shaft? I have a Spicer 18 in my 49 pickup which I am assuming would be the earlier 1 1/8". It is in good shape (I think). I have a Spicer 18 in my 1960 wagon that I am hoping is the 1 1/4". The wagon has a 302 and I'm considering swapping the T-90 to something stronger. The t-case has slack in it. I know this is bad. :-( Since the wagon is currently my daily driver, I was thinking of pulling the t-case from the pickup and putting it into the wagon, while I take time to rebuild the wagon's t-case. I am considering doing the AA bearing upgrade. All this assumes that the t-case in the wagon is the larger shaft version that stands a better chance of taking the power of the 302. Otherwise, I think I should be looking for a different t-case. I guess it will be obvious when I get brave enough to actually start pulling gear boxes out. I hate to get my daily driver apart to discover I can't put it back on the road immediately. (It gives fuel to the other side in the family debate about the reasonableness of buying old Jeeps.) Rick G. in AZ -----Original Message-----
From: Morris G. Hill [mailto:mgh@...] Sent: Monday, June 21, 1999 10:10 PM To: WillysTech@... Subject: Re: [WT] How do you remove the OD From: "Morris G. Hill" <mgh@...> I think the 1-1/8" hole can be enlarged by a machine shop, though I have not tried having that operation done. I think the 1-1/8" set-up is too weak for the 6-226 or larger engines -- my 226 wagon trashed a new 1-1/8" shaft and bearing set in less than 15,000 miles of everyday driving, so I switched cases to a 1-1/4" version I had in the parts pile. The 1-1/8" set-up is ok behind my 4-134 engine -- it's never needed attention in 35 years of driving my CJ-2A. The modification kit is sold by AA for either the 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" cases. It includes a new special shaft and 2 little cup and cone taper roller bearing sets. AA includes a diagram to guide a machinist in cutting your existing intermediate gear for the bearing cups, and afterwards you should use a dremel tool to grind a couple of recesses inboard of where each cup will be driven in, so you can drive them out later to replace them if necessary. They don't tell you this in the instructions, but it's obvious you'll never be able to replace worn cups unless you create some way to drive them out before you install them. Only the gear needs to be cut, not the case. I finally did this mod in my wagon and it's held up with no problems for the last 25,000 miles or so. It almost (not quite) gets rid of all of the transfer case whine. I'd tell you how I learned this stuff, but I'd have to be drunk first. Way too humiliating otherwise. -----Original Message----- From: Rick48CJ2A@... <Rick48CJ2A@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Monday, June 21, 1999 6:29 PM Subject: Re: [WT] How do you remove the OD From: Rick48CJ2A@...the #18 and #20. Of course I had to take and match them up myself to becertain. :-)just a different set of bearings to match the shaft size? Would it be worth theHow reliable is the 1 1/8" for everyday driving. I'm not talking about rockthe intermediate shaft. Who sells these kits and what do they include? Doesany machine work have to be done? Will these kits fit a 1 1/8" t-case or aremgh@... writes:hole where it mates to the transmission. The hole in earlier #18's was a shadeearlier transmission which was intended for the small indexing hole.such a case is converted to an #18, it will intefere with the driveshaft brakeif so equipped, or with the speedometer cable if not. For such cases, a newwell-equipped hardware store (but not at Home Depot).apparently-identical 26 tooth main drive gears, the tooth pitch is different, so they will notpitch only.freely interchanged between cases with those shaft diameters, assuming all other(and there are more of them) in the later 1-1/4" shaft version, so it is a morethey are not marked on the parts themselves. Spicer numbers appear on originalthe mystery and adventure.an 18-8-18 output gear and 18-8-17 sliding gear. This combination workstooth set-up is 18-5-16. The tooth counts are 34/20. It must be used with ana Warn 26-tooth overdrive, even though it may seem to fit perfectly.gears -- you probably wouldn't be able to force all of them into the case at thesame time.. Ditto for the 27-tooth arrangement used on WWII models.who say don't remove the small cover, cotter pin, etc. The main housing is agear stays behind in the transfer case, and the snap ring is first carefullyof force to loosen it (if it was properly installed) because it needed to beextension, while either having someone under the hood holding the fan to keep thenot super-tight, the lockplate and snap ring will not keep everythingtogether for very long.------------------------------------------------------------------------ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ WillysTech NEW! Parts Buy/Sell/Swap Board Vehicle FAQ Sheets Parts Resource List _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ |
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Re: 53 M38A1 Gear Ratio?
Merl
Merl wrote:
Just read the above, sounds like the 2A has the same axle...not true. The ratio is the same in the 2A but the axle itself isn't. -- "Never pound on the threaded **** end of *anything*!" ** ** ** mailto:hollowel@... ** Merl **** |
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Re: 53 M38A1 Gear Ratio?
Merl
Rockiehigh@... wrote:
The ratio should be 5.38:1, same as for the 2A, 3A, M38, etc. The tag on the differential for this ratio is (if I remember correctly) 43/8. -- "Never pound on the threaded **** end of *anything*!" ** ** ** mailto:hollowel@... ** Merl **** |
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