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--- Mike Boyink <mboyink@...> wrote:
Reading Granville Kings Jeep Bible he mentions a spacer kit that

takes up some free play in one of the tranny shafts as a cure. Anyone try
this...sources for the kit?

Also very eager to hear!! (Always looking for an easier way)

Reed (CA)
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Well folks I made the decision last week to hire out the rebuilding of my
T90 (I'll wait for the collective groan). Too many yard projects -
including a new shed for all the extra Jeep stuff - in the works. I'd
rather spend a little $$ than having to keep hearing my 2 year old say
"Daddy's Jeep...in the garage..broken...daddy
fix...screwdriver..screws.."..:)

Anyhoo, I want to get all the parts I'll likely need up front and deliver
them with the Jeep. I have a spare complete/assembled tranny and a box of
parts but these both have the short shaft though and the T90 in the Jeep is
the long shaft.

I suspect the loose teeth from the grenaded reverse gear have caused damamge
to the mainshaft so I wanted to replace it. A recent post by Bill Lagler
made me question if there were 2 variations of the longer shaft - one for
the V6 and the other for the Trucks/Wagons. Anyone have clues where to get
the V6 version?

Also, I know we've covered the classic "slip out of 2nd" problem
before...but as I recall the suggested fix from this forum was a new 2nd
gear. Reading Granville Kings Jeep Bible he mentions a spacer kit that
takes up some free play in one of the tranny shafts as a cure. Anyone try
this...sources for the kit?

Mike Boyink
Holland, MI
1966 CJ5
1983 6.2 GMC Rally Van (towdog)



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--- "K. R." <kr98664@...> wrote:

From: "K. R." <kr98664@...>

I just got back from a weekend out of town. I read
through all my mail and wept a tear at all sorts of
topics where I could have injected my inaccurate and
misleading advice

I must go for now. My teenage stedaughter, who is
convinced I am the source of all evil in the world,
wants the phone.

Vern, You crack me up!!! Visions of trying to use the internet with a shared phone line, with a
teenage female in the house!! We can expect to see posts by poor Vern, clocked at 3:30 AM!

Reed (CA)

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Blain-

Go to:

http//www.amxfiles.com

And go to the "Resources" section then go to the "Technical Info"
section and scroll down to a link called "AMC Small Block V-8's" and
there is a brief description of the 290/340/390 engine of your vintage.

If you don't find what your looking for in the site I'm sure there's
some real AMC gurus there that could answer your questions.

Frank(MI)

'47 CJ-2A
'63 6-230 4WD
'63 J-200 Gladiator
'64 Wagoneer (Organ Donor)
'76 CJ-5 Renegade 304 V-8



"When Your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."
- Henry J. Kaiser

Thanks for the reply, Reed. However, that page didn't answer my
questions... My brother has a 360 out of a Jeep truck. On the block right
underneath the motor mount, "360" is embossed. My motor doesn't have that,
so I don't know any other way to tell what it is. According to that page,
the 304 wasn't made till the '70's. I know this motor to be '60's vintage.
I've been told that the 390 was made in the '60's, and now I see that the
304 wasn't made in the '60's. So I'm thinking that it's a 390. I'm not
sure what it came out of. Has anyone on this list ever seen a 390 and know
how to identify one?

Thanks again,

Blaine

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>
Subject: Re: Motor ID

You might have a look here:

Reed (CA)

--- "Blaine S." <blaines@...> wrote:

From: "Blaine S." <blaines@...>

Anyone know how to tell the difference between a 304 and 390? I can't
remember what's in my Jeep. I know the motor is about circa 1969...

What

years did AMC make the 304? What about the 390?

sorry that this post is way late, but i'm a digester and i wasn't around
on the weekend.

rick, the od is in two pieces, and you should only need to remove the
five bolts that go into the transfer case, not the rear plate of the
od. it may sound silly, but the one thing you might check to aid in
removal is that both the tranny and transfer case are in neutral. the
sun gear for the planetary setup is attached to the main part of the
overdrive and the rest of the planetary system is bolted to the tranny
output shaft. this sun gear is helical and the synchros are straight
gears, so there is some rotation of the sun gear required to separate
the main body and planetary setup. if the transfer case is locked to
the wheels and the transmission is locked to the engine, no rotation is
allowed and you won't remove your main body.

once the main body is removed there is a snap ring deep inside the
planetary setup that must be removed and then the main bolt which
connects to the tranny output shaft. this bolt is removed by a 1/2"
ratchet extension.

mark may
57 cj5
57 fc170
58 fc150 w/saturn od
62 cj6 w/saturn od
65 cj5
73 cj5

Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:

Let me explain in a little more detail

1. We have a Model 20 with 26 teeth that has perfect gears and has a 1 1/4"
intermediate shaft.

2. We have a Model 18 that also has perfect gears but has a 1 1/8"
intermediate shaft.

From what I have been told the Model 20 and Model 18 cases are

interchangeable. So we want to build the 1 1/4" model 20 case as a model 18.
My question is will the intermediate shaft and gear from the model 20 work
in this case with the model 18 gears. It looks like it will work but I was
hoping that this wasn't unbroken ground here on Willys Tech.

If we can make all of this work, we will have a 1 1/4" model 18 that will
work with the 26 tooth OD and I will get a spare 29 tooth out to the deal for
my truck.

If we can sort all of this out we should have a t-case rebuilding day at my
house in a few weeks and maybe even a rebuild guide written. I'm getting
closer to making that Missouri trip happen every day. :-)

Rick S (TX)

Rick,

I think you need a new plan. The dana 20 case, just the case, is the same
as the large hole dana 18. Even though the 1 1/8" d18 and the d20 both have
a 26 tooth input gear the other gears are different. The d20 has a 2:1 low
range vs the d18 2.46:1 low range. Also, with the large hole d18 you need
the newer model WarnOD that has the shifter coming out the back. With the
older units the shifter rail came out the front and went right across the
t/case, won't clear on the newer larger case.

Bill
47cj2a

Merl wrote:

From: Merl <hollow@...>

Don Miller wrote:

From: "Don Miller" <dkmiller@...>

Help! Can a T86 transmission replace my defective T90? The T86 is from my
parts CJ5 V-6 and the T90 is in my CJ3B. I also have the bell housing ,
engine, and transfer case from the CJ5. Maybe the best solution is to put
V-6 and all in CJ3B. V-6 is froze up (lack of use) and Hurricane run very
well. Appreciate any comments. Thanks
Don in Burlington NC
---(0)IIIIII(0)---

I'm not familiar with the T86, but I do know that it is considered to be
a weaker transmission than the T90. The T90 isn't tough to rebuild, if
you need to pull it anyway you might look into that option. Depending on
whats wrong with it that might be the cheapest way to go.
The choice of F-head vs. V6 is sort
of a personal choice, depends on your modification bent and power needs.

The T86 is not a bolt in replacement for the T90. The T86 has an adapter
on the front end to bolt to the Buick bell housing. Along with this it
has a longer input shaft that has a GM pilot size and spline. Unless
you're going to swap in the V6, rebuild the T90.

Bill
47cj2a

K. R. wrote:

1) The L134 did not have a vaccuum advance, as far as
I know. Mine doesn't, nor do I know of any. Of
course somebody will prove me wrong in the morning.

Well, Vern, allow me to do just that. I have a distributor for an L-134
that does have a vacuum advance. I got it from a 2wd Willys Wagon that
I bought for parts. It is quite a bit different from the original
distributor that I had (the cap is about 3/4" to 1" smaller in
diameter). It works by having a vacuum pot that turns the entire
distributor to advance the timing. I haven't run the engine very much
since I swapped the distributors, but so far it seems to work just
fine. I'll post a picture if anybody's interested. (Sorry Vern, but I
couldn't help but chime in on this one!)

On another note, I went to the Jeep employees car show in Toledo
yesterday. Once again there were over 100 Jeeps there and the weather
was beautiful. The Jeeps were a bit spread out this year, but there
were some beautiful examples in attendance. I was also very tempted by
a Tornado powered Willys 4WD Panel Delivery that was for sale in the
swap meet.

I also briefly met Keith Buckley (A nice guy!) from the list and saw his
beautiful M-170 ambulance. He was there with a friend that had just
picked up a CJ-3A with a "Jeep-A-Trench" trencher, snowplow and capstan
winch. What a cool piece! Keith mentioned that they have been persuing
this Jeep for quite some time and finally convinced the owner to sell,
and they picked it up on Saturday. What's the full story, Keith?

-Frank (MI)

Hey Vern
I got one of those railway Willys wagons down under. Imported it from LA 10
years ago.

Wife didn't like it though cause it got in the way of the Hoover so had
to stop playing trains with it.

Did I mention it was only HO scale made by Bachman?

Scan of packaging/picture is attached
TedR


----------

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:51:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: "K. R." <kr98664@...>
Subject: Vern's been thinking, (was 4 door wagon, was End of the rain

bow)

Dear Friends,

You opened this post against your better judgement,
didn't you?

I saw that pic some time ago at WillysAmerica on his
wish list. I was too fascinated with the railroad
wheels to even notice the extremely rare 4 door body.

How about this for fun with an old Willys? My idea
from several months ago, which I've never shared,
would be to somehow magically aquire a wagon with the
railroad wheels. It wouldn't have to be the 4 door
version. Then all I'd have to do is procure several
miles of railroad track in a highly scenic area with
lots of tourists. You could then rent the wagon for a
few hours on your own private railroad. Wouldn't that
be a blast? Or maybe even a CJ with special wheels
would work, like the military did in the Pacific
during WWII.

So only a lack of suitable vehicles and track and gobs
of money, combined with my wife's common sense, is
stopping me.

You guys should know better than to open any of my
posts, don't you think?

Deep in Thought,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA

In a message dated 6/21/99 2:05:41 AM Central Daylight Time,
rlcook@... writes:

<<
Rick,
Easy does it on the truck. Warped sheet metal and ruined glass come
to
mind. Don't ask.

Ron, IA >>

Ron,
I've decided to only sandblast the parts that are rusting. The rest of the
paint has been there all of these years so it must be OK under there. I'll
leave it in place and just do the rest of it. That means most of the seams on
the bed will get blasted but most of the rest will stay on. Thanks for the
info though, I think I will crank the pressure down to 40 when I do the sheet
metal.

Can you believe it is still raining? This is the first time we have had two
straight days of rain since the flood back in October. You know it's because
I got my sand blaster and washer my wife's van. :-)

Rick,
Easy does it on the truck. Warped sheet metal and ruined glass come to
mind. Don't ask.

Ron, IA

Dear Friends,

I just got back from a weekend out of town. I read
through all my mail and wept a tear at all sorts of
topics where I could have injected my inaccurate and
misleading advice. Nobody was led down the wrong path
while I was gone.

As I neared the end of my piled-up mail, how I wished
for a simple question about distributors, since I'm
stuck in that phase for a while. Then I came to the
follow-up on the CJ2A power loss. Oh Happy Day!

So to answer your questions:

1) The L134 did not have a vaccuum advance, as far as
I know. Mine doesn't, nor do I know of any. Of
course somebody will prove me wrong in the morning. A
vaccuum advance mechanism does little more than
improve fuel economy at light/part throttle
applications so it shouldn't be a factor anyway.

2) The centrifugal advance mechanism is under the
plate which supports the breaker points and condensor.
A quick check is to manually turn the rotor,
counterclockwise I think, and release it. It should
snap back to it's original position with no
hesitation. It is very common for a centrifugal
mechanism to get jammed up and stick in one spot.
They are also very easy to repair.

Life is good, with folks asking about distributors
just as I get back on-line.

This sure sounds like an interesting problem you have
about losing power. It sure is curious how everything
is fine if it sits for a few minutes. It is hard to
know if it is temperature related, and it cools off
just enough. Or maybe some other force is at work,
like fuel delivery or plugged exhaust. I see you have
already checked the fuel pressure while actually
losing power, so that is a good start.

Have fun wading through all our WT advice. Watch out
for tunnel vision while troubleshooting, and keep us
posted.

I must go for now. My teenage stedaughter, who is
convinced I am the source of all evil in the world,
wants the phone.

Regards,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA


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Hey Vern
I got one of those railway Willys wagons down under. Imported it from LA 10
years ago.

Wife got didn't like it though cause it got in the way of the Hoover so had
to stop playing trains with it.

Did I mention it was only HO scale made by Bachman?

Scan of packaging/picture is attached
TedR


----------

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:51:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: "K. R." <kr98664@...>
Subject: Vern's been thinking, (was 4 door wagon, was End of the rain

bow)

Dear Friends,

You opened this post against your better judgement,
didn't you?

I saw that pic some time ago at WillysAmerica on his
wish list. I was too fascinated with the railroad
wheels to even notice the extremely rare 4 door body.

How about this for fun with an old Willys? My idea
from several months ago, which I've never shared,
would be to somehow magically aquire a wagon with the
railroad wheels. It wouldn't have to be the 4 door
version. Then all I'd have to do is procure several
miles of railroad track in a highly scenic area with
lots of tourists. You could then rent the wagon for a
few hours on your own private railroad. Wouldn't that
be a blast? Or maybe even a CJ with special wheels
would work, like the military did in the Pacific
during WWII.

So only a lack of suitable vehicles and track and gobs
of money, combined with my wife's common sense, is
stopping me.

You guys should know better than to open any of my
posts, don't you think?

Deep in Thought,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA

--- Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:

From: Rick48CJ2A@...

Well guys, I went to Sears yesterday and bought a sandblaster.

One little note. I went through my first one too fast. . the nozzle. I didn't know that those
ceramic tips wear out so fast . . ; and when they do and you don't catch it in time, its bye bye
gun. Now you've got to get all the die grinders, straight and right angle, air grease gun, air
rachet, air xxxx, air yyyy, and air zzz. ha ha ha

Reed (CA)

===



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I mechanic I know who is ASE certified and an auto mechanic instructor for
my area's vocational school once told me he has never had to replace a brake
master cylinder in his automobile due to flushing the brake system every 2
years. I recall him mentioning about the moisture collecting in the brake
system and I believe an ionic reaction with the electrical system that
causes a black corrosion in the brake fluid.

Chris Croyle (PA)
1961 Willys 4WD PU

On Sat, 19 Jun 1999 16:46:36 PDT Geno Hacker <linkupgear@...>
writes:

From: Geno Hacker <linkupgear@...>

I have a 49 Willys pickup with a Ford 302 in it. I have heard that
you can
put 351 heads on it for more power. I know this might seem off
subject but
I was wondering if anyone knows how this will afect the low end
performance.
Any thoughts...comments?
Thanks
Geno Hacker - Arizona 49 4x4 pu

It's been too long since I hot rodded fords to remember the details, but
here goes:
The 351 Winsor heads will bolt onto a 302. I think the 302 intake will
work, if I remember right the 351 intake will not because the block deck
height is different. There could only be two possible advantages:
1) The chamber size on the 351 heads are smaller and thus will boost
your compression. I don't think this is the case.
2) The valves and ports on the 351 heads are larger. this will help on
the upper RPM ranges but won't do diddly on the lower end, may even hurt
low end performance.
I question whether it would be worth the trouble. A torquer cam and
exhaust system mods would probably do more to boost performance than
anything.

Hope this helps

Robert
53 Wagon

Gkart65@... wrote:

From: Gkart65@...

I just put new springs on my 49CJ3A. A1" lift was built into the springs but
it gave me a full 2" lift over the worn out stock springs. My problem is when
driving it and coasting the drive line makes a lot of noise. I have all new
ujoints and I put in a 1degree shim to tip the axel up incase the ujoint
angle was too great with the lift. Nothing has help. To make the noise I
need to be going over 30MPH and then put the tranny on neutral, or let off
the gas slightly. If I fully let off the gas so the engine is slowing the
vehical the noise goes away. Also if I stall on the power there is no noise.
I have checked the slinger on the rear drive shaft for rubbing and found some
on the back side by the seal. I made a shim to place the yoke out farther
to give more space for the slinger but this has not helped.
P.S. I have removed the from drive shaft and have lockout hub, this should
eliminate the front end.

Greg
Chanhassen
CJ3A

I find this fairly curious. I wouldn't think that 1" of lift over stock
would cause what sounds like a lot of driveline noise. Are you getting
much vibration along with the noise? (The first time I changed my 2A's
u-joints I put the rear shaft on backwards with the female part of the
slipjoint to the rear. Man, that was *vibration city*!) You mention
having removed the front driveshaft in an effort to eliminate that as
a cause, I would suggest that you put it back on and remove the rear
driveshaft and try it as front wheel drive only. If you still get the
noise then your problem is in the transfer case. No noise and its
somewhere from the transfer case output gear on back.

Can you describe the noise that you're hearing? I had a noise in my
2A that I would describe as a "thrashing" that would happen under
conditions similar to what you describe...under acceleration and
engine braking no noise, but coasting to a stop with the tranny in
neutral and I'd get this "thrashing" (very inconsistent, sounded like
a worn gear wobbling on a shaft). It turned out to be a worn mainshaft
in my transfer case. I isolated it by putting the rear axle up on
jackstands (and blocks, and jacks, and a few other things that made
me feel safe about it not falling off) and running it in gear.
Once I isolated the noise to the transfer case I dropped the pan
and was able to detect the gear/shaft wobble. YMMV.

Merl, TX

--- CJ2A1947@... wrote:

From: CJ2A1947@...

How do I get to parts for sale or wanted? Jim Ford

Look Below.

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CJ2A1947@... wrote:

From: CJ2A1947@...

How do I get to parts for sale or wanted? Jim Ford

Jim:

AOL does not allow for clickable links from their e-mail software. You will
have to highlight the URL below and then copy and then paste it into the
location box in your browser window

I hope this info helps you, if you have any further problems, please e-mail me
directly and I'll try to help.

MVP
Moderator -- WillysTech --
'53 Wagon 4X$ (still in the shop)

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