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Speaking of brake lines
Arne Anderson
I was curious if there was a source out there for front brake lines. I need
the piece from the T on the front axle to the brake drum. I made myself one but I would like to have the real deal. On the topic of purging it is a real procedure and the guy who did mine even recommended doing it once a year especially if you wheel the willys. After mines recent swimming excercise I will most likely be doing mine sooner than a year. arne |
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Re: Brake Line Replacement
Doug Brusa
Jim,
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My small and obvious suggestion is to liberally apply penetrating oil to all the fittings you are going to touch once a night for a week before you touch them with a wrench. Be gentle and use the heat wrench with caution. Half of Willys work seems to be extracting broken fittings, studs, bolts, etc. doug JIMRUSELL@... wrote:
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Re: Brake Fluid Replacement?
I was told that using your vehicle regularly meant that you used your brakes
a lot soooo it meant that HEAT from the brakes kept the cylinders warm & that drove the moisture out! Does that make sense? I have chosen the DOT 5 and never have to worry about it again! Ken Valley Forge PA 50 Willys PU/Stake <A href=">Gallery B2 </A> |
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Re: How do you remove the OD?
Ross Cook
If you've got rain now, then I guess that means I get rain tomorrow. I
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don't think you can break anything unless you go crazy with a hammer. Whoever designed that thing didn't want it to break. Anyway, if you are looking at the AA catalog? The parts coinciding with the shaft # 11 are one assembly. In other words all of these are assembled onto the shaft. The shaft is in turn inserted into the planetary hub assembly #19. The problem is that everything is close tolerance. So, any rust, crud, etc. will hang it up. A moderate use of force is required. Especially if it has'nt been removed for thirty years. Think about it though. the amount of force and stress involved demands that it be mounted securely. So, I don't see any way out of complete disassembly for a unit that has been attached for that amoun of time. I must have sweated over that thing for about 12 hours. Once I got it apart I realized it was'nt really all that bad. Just different. More like a piece of a lathe or such. In my case there had been water in it so the needle bearings were glued together and the planetary gears were hung. ( still soaking). I sat looking at it with a crow bar and a hammer. Then I would think about Merl and his message. That really saved it. It is a very logical assembly when you break it down. Good Luck. -----Original Message-----
From: Rick48CJ2A@... <Rick48CJ2A@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Sunday, June 20, 1999 11:28 AM Subject: Re: [WT] How do you remove the OD? From: Rick48CJ2A@...output shaft. This resides inside the planetary assembly in front of the ODshaft. Before you can get to it you will have to remove the special (square)ever publish a maintenance manual for these ODs? They must be very reliablenot completely disassemble this thing without him here. That way if something |
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Re: How do you remove the OD?
Ross Cook
Yes. The special lock nut screws on to the back of the transmission output
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shaft. This resides inside the planetary assembly in front of the OD shaft. Before you can get to it you will have to remove the special (square) snapring and washer. Did you get the OD shaft out? Give me some idea of which exploded parts diagram you are looking at. That might help with the terminology. -----Original Message-----
From: Rick48CJ2A@... <Rick48CJ2A@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Sunday, June 20, 1999 9:39 AM Subject: Re: [WT] How do you remove the OD? From: Rick48CJ2A@...thing goes together from the diagrams. I think my problem is because thediagrams are only drawn to show the parts for identification purposes, not formade it difficult to get the shaft out. There is a bearing with aninterference fit. Take everything off the shaft. I hope you have a good pair of snapelse. Once you get that out then you can access the square snapring and washer |
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Re: Brake Fluid Replacement?
In a message dated 6/20/99 2:30:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Rick48CJ2A@... writes: << The other day I send off a friend of mine with the instructions to have his brake fluid purged. It was completely black and the nastiest looking stuff I had ever seen in a brake system. I purge my fluid at least every two years. Anyway, he came back from four different brakes shops that laughed at him and told him they never heard of such a thing. >> I think the term that a brake shop would recognize is "power bleed." Tom |
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Brake Fluid Replacement?
Since we have visited the topic of brakes today, let me throw out a question
to the group. The other day I send off a friend of mine with the instructions to have his brake fluid purged. It was completely black and the nastiest looking stuff I had ever seen in a brake system. I purge my fluid at least every two years. Anyway, he came back from four different brakes shops that laughed at him and told him they never heard of such a thing. They told him the only reason for purging the fluid was to bleed out air from the system. I'm still sticking with the idea that it should be purged but only because of what my grandfather once taught me (Remember he's the guy that tourqued his head stud nuts every spring). Here was the reasoning he gave me back then: Brake systems are open pressure systems, in that they are vented to the outside air. Each time you step on the brake pedal you pull outside air into the system (I'm thinking that maybe the new systems aren't like this because they have the rubber diaphragm at the top of the reservoir). With the air also comes moisture which is absorbed into the brake fluid. Since most brake components are made of cast iron (Wheel cylinders and master cylinder) the moisture coming in contact with the iron causes corrosion. That corrosion is what is causing the fluid to become black. By the time the fluid has gotten that dark it has collected a lot of moisture and has become more corrosive than clean brake fluid. This is turn causes the insides of the components to become pitted and soon thereafter fail. Whether or not the reasoning has any merit I can't say. I am not, nor have I ever professed to being a real mechanic. Everything I have learned has come through the school of hard knocks and from reading tech manuals. If I have this wrong please let me know so I can quit recommending this procedure to people. Thanks guys Rick S (TX) I'm curious, Do we have any certified mechanics on the list? Not that you have to be certified to know what your talking about. Some of the worst mechanics I've seen still had the paper to back them up. No, I'm not saying that because you have the certification your a bad mechanic either. It's just curiosity :-) |
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Re: Brake Line Replacement
In a message dated 6/19/99 11:12:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
JIMRUSELL@... writes: << I am about to replace may brake lines (3 on the PU). Any tips before I begin? The old ones are pretty beaten up and somewhat frayed. Any comments welcome. I am learning to ask first . . . . Thanks, Jim >> Jim, My number 1 suggestion is to only use line wrenches to work on the lines with. Open end wrenches do a great job once things are broken loose and moving well but for breaking them loose, stick with the line wrench. Mine are worth there weight in gold (Well at least copper). Rick S (TX) |
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Re: (WT)302 in willys
J.Lewis
Hi Geno,
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Back when I was into mustangs this was something that the magazines talked about a lot. Personally I've never done it but I think it was meant to improve head flow. Better flow usually equals higher revs. It doesn't sound like something you'd want for a 4wd truck but I'm sure that if you look around and talk to some of the mustang guys you could get better info. I'm just a shadetree hotrodder and definitely no pro at this but I think it probably would drop torque at the lower end in exchange for more HP at the top end. From what I remember there was some machine work necessary to fit the intake manifold to the heads. Good luck, Jerry ----- Original Message -----
From: Geno Hacker <linkupgear@...> To: <WillysTech@...> Sent: Saturday, June 19, 1999 7:46 PM Subject: [WT] (WT)302 in willys From: Geno Hacker <linkupgear@...>can put 351 heads on it for more power. I know this might seem off subjectbut I was wondering if anyone knows how this will afect the low endperformance. Any thoughts...comments? |
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Re: How do you remove the OD?
In a message dated 6/20/99 10:05:58 AM Central Daylight Time,
rc2ls@... writes: << Yes. The special lock nut screws on to the back of the transmission output shaft. This resides inside the planetary assembly in front of the OD shaft. Before you can get to it you will have to remove the special (square) snapring and washer. Did you get the OD shaft out? Give me some idea of which exploded parts diagram you are looking at. That might help with the terminology. >> Ross, I'm using the parts diagram in the Advance Adapters catalog. Did anyone ever publish a maintenance manual for these ODs? They must be very reliable because they seem to be seldom removed. The one in my truck has been there for 30 years. I understand it was removed once to replace the gaskets. It seems strange to have to disassemble this thing to take it off. I haven't tried anymore to take it apart. It's raining outside (In San Antonio?) and I've decided to wait for the owner to show up tomorrow night. I'd rather not completely disassemble this thing without him here. That way if something breaks I have someone to share the blame with. Rick S (TX) |
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Re: How do you remove the OD?
Ross,
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Does the special snap ring lock the rest of the OD into the planetary gear when it's bolted on? I'm having a difficult time visualizing how this thing goes together from the diagrams. I think my problem is because the diagrams are only drawn to show the parts for identification purposes, not for function. If it were mine I would probably have it apart by now (with the broken parts on order) but it's not so I'm taking my time. Rick S (TX) In a message dated 6/19/99 10:55:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
rc2ls@... writes: << I don't know about mix matching a D18 with a D20. It sounds good though. Looking at the book it appears that it would work. I remember now what made it difficult to get the shaft out. There is a bearing with an interference fit. Take everything off the shaft. I hope you have a good pair of snap ring pliers 'cause there is one stout snap ring on there. Once you get everything off put the spacer and nut back on and gently tap the shaft and bearing out. Tap on the spacer. I figure it's cheaper than anything else. Once you get that out then you can access the square snapring and washer behind the special nut that threads onto the output shaft of the transmission. I used an extension to drive the nut. >> |
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Re: How do you remove the OD
In a message dated 6/20/99 12:29:51 AM Central Daylight Time,
rlcook@... writes: << Rick, I hope you are keeping all this stuff. You can make up a "How to Remove Warn OD" manual. >> Now Ron, You don't think I would let something as important as that slip into oblivion do you. :-) Rick S (TX) |
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Re: drive line noise
Kendal Jackson
O please, O Please, can I fella's can I? Huh?
Greg, If you will remember I had the same problem. I went through all kinds of BS including rebuilding my transmission. This may or may not be the answer to your problem but consider the intermediate shaft of your x-fer case. The symptoms are ABOUT the same as mine 'cept mine was at 40ish, not 30. Also I had not just put a lift kit on. Look at and see what you think. It is not expensive to do (cost me about $40) and it is not at all hard (took four hours and I am an idiot). I have some advice about some things in that guide so if you decide to change out your intermediate shaft let me know and I will pass along my insights. Good luck. At 12:41 AM 6/20/99 EDT, you wrote: From: Gkart65@...Kendal Jackson --It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm really quite busy-- |
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T90 vs T86 (was Re: Digest Number 429)
Merl
From: Merl <hollow@...>(Dang, I wasn't finished when I sent that...hate it when that happens.) If you *want* a V6, you should try and break that thing loose before you go to the effort of putting it in there...nothing like going to all that effort and still having a non-running Jeep. There's a good writeup on the CJ-3B page on putting a V6 into a 3B, you might want to read up on that if you haven't seen it. Merl, TX |
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Re: Digest Number 429
Merl
Don Miller wrote:
I'm not familiar with the T86, but I do know that it is considered to be a weaker transmission than the T90. The T90 isn't tough to rebuild, if you need to pull it anyway you might look into that option. Depending on whats wrong with it that might be the cheapest way to go. The choice of F-head vs. V6 is sort of a personal choice, depends on your modification bent and power needs. |
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Re: CJ-2A Axles
Reed Cary
Hold on You may be right! I've never heard that one before. You bring up foreign jeeps, and who
knows what names they might give to their models. Reed --- David Best <dbest@...> wrote: I'm really confused now! I thought the CJ-4 was a re-badged 3B with a Peugeot drivetrain and=== _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at |
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Re: How do you remove the OD
Ross Cook
I don't know about mix matching a D18 with a D20. It sounds good though.
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Looking at the book it appears that it would work. I remember now what made it difficult to get the shaft out. There is a bearing with an interference fit. Take everything off the shaft. I hope you have a good pair of snap ring pliers 'cause there is one stout snap ring on there. Once you get everything off put the spacer and nut back on and gently tap the shaft and bearing out. Tap on the spacer. I figure it's cheaper than anything else. Once you get that out then you can access the square snapring and washer behind the special nut that threads onto the output shaft of the transmission. I used an extension to drive the nut. -----Original Message-----
From: Rick48CJ2A@... <Rick48CJ2A@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Saturday, June 19, 1999 9:51 PM Subject: Re: [WT] How do you remove the OD From: Rick48CJ2A@...can pull the planetary gear and separate the T-case from the tranny. I'm not18. My question is will the intermediate shaft and gear from the model 20 workfor my truck.one in it. What I discovered is that if it has been sitting then theplanetary gears are froze up. Also the shaft may be stuck in the housing. Theshaft is supposed to slide out. That is if you have removed all the retainers.to tap on the spacer that is behind the nut to get the shaft out. I'll haveto go look at it to remember exactly how it all came out. |
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