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Connectivity check

Rus Curtis
 

Just checking to see if I made the move correctly. I've got a '54 CJ3B and live in KS. Deep in the middle of a frame-off rebuild.

-rus


Paint, colors, details

Jeeps are the best
 

Can someone tell me [or point me to a site]...

==================

* What were the original '46 Cj2A color options from factory?

* What were the color of the rims when new? Same as body
or a standard "all models the same" color?

* Were the underside and underfenders the same color
as the body? If not, what color?

* What year did the "4 Wheel Drive" stencil begin
appearing on the tailgate?

* Were the "Willys" markings on the '46 painted
different than the body color? If so, what color?

* What were the seat covering options and colors?

* Is there a "Cj2A restoration guide" website?

==================

Guys, I am months away from this, but I am getting ready.

Any help?

Dave in Green Bay [It's almost game time!]

In progress:
'46 CJ-2a / '72 Honda CB 350K3 Super Sport / '71 Honda CT Trail 70

:)------------------How-To-Reach-Us-----------------(:

David H. Hatch / N9ZRT
Email: oslc@...
Snail: Our Saviour Lutheran Church
120 South Henry Street
Green Bay, Wisconsin 54302
1.920.468.4065 - Work
1.920.468.5757 - Fax
1.920.465-8118 - Residence [Emergency use only]
WWW:


Conectivity check

Rus Curtis
 

Just checking to see if I'm in.

-rus


Re: Getting it straight

Scott Little
 

Dan - go to the onelist.com site and then go to the User Center then scroll
down the User Center page and you will get to the username and password
section. After you are logged in it displays the lists you are subscribed
to. Click on List Center and it will take you to the archives, bookmarks,
profiles etc. Now if I can just figure out how my truck works........
Scott

At 05:15 PM 10/15/1998 EDT, you wrote:
From: Kravitzd@...

Dear T Herb,

A little sarcasm here, but my attempt to deal with change.

I logged on to the "one list" and I thought I was supposed to use my password
somewhere, etc....

Didn't see any gates to pass through to use password, and archives buttons
didn't produce anything at all.

Am I with you all, or am I pre-Willys group computer abilities?

Respectfully (sort of, Dan)

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Re: Spare rack

 

When I brough home my 51 4WD PU it did not have the original bed on
it and was not bolted down. I used straps to tie it down for transport and
figured I'd check this out later. Upon closer inspection, I have found
that this bed is narrower and longer than the orginal bed and will not work
on my PU without a lot of major modifications (the holes and mounts are not
even close). Someone said that the bed I have is from a 60 something model.
The tire mount seems to be the same for all years from what I can tell.
Needless to say I am going to have to start over with the bed on my truck.
I found an original bed with the Willys logo on the tailgate but its kind of
beat up for the price they are asking. I may strat from scrach or do a flat
bed.

Rob Bost 51 4wd pu

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Phillimore [SMTP:morephi@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 1998 5:34 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WillysTech] Re: Spare rack

From: "Matt Phillimore" <morephi@...>

<snip>
(I know what I wrote anyway)

Matt, Do you know if it is the same as on a 62 pickup? If they are the
same
I will measure mine and give you a full discription, including materials
list.

Rick S
From what I know about these wonderful trucks, I don't think
anything behind the cab changed over the entire run, with the
exception of the W-O taken off the tailgate, and the removal of the
fender steps. That is, in the body department. Axles are a different
story. I would assume that they are the same. Anyone able to back
this up?

I am attempting to determine the cost of replacing the sides of the
bed. I'm thinking if I drill the spot welds on the verticals, I can
then use them and replace the bed sides...with a little thicker
metal. Anyone think this is reaaaally optimistic on my part? Any
comments on this idea would be appreciated also. I don't know
if I can do it, but I know that old bed isn't in good shape.
Anyway... unless I go for the $1500+ (+ either a 3 day trip or a lot
of shipping) new bed from Paul Barry, which is not an option on my
budget, I will need a spare carrier.

If I try to fix the old bed, or rebuild it as above, I will need to
find or build a spare carrier. I suppose I could prolly figure out
all the dimensions from a pic or two if I really wanted to do all the
tedious math and measuring, and if they didn't always have a spare
mounted on them...But I figured I'd try to make it easy for myself
and ask all of you. That's what this list is for, right?

Thanks
Matt


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Re: More air on top?

mitch utsey
 

pigsmith@... wrote:

Yesterday I went to look at an anvil and ended up as a spectator to a conversation about engines. I vaguely understand about "porting" and the reasons for putting in shorter connecting rods, but in doing so, the air/fuel mix above the piston doesn't get compressed as much. I thought the ideal was to get the most volume squeezed into the smallest space before igniting it? Or am I confusing myself with some basic jet engine theory from way back? Is the point of increasing the volume of air/fuel mixture the whole point, period (not the squeezing)? Did I just answer my own question(s)?
Well, the point of porting IS to get more air/fuel in the cylinder. Why they would put shorted con rods I have no idea, unless they were having detonation problems (and then that is still a screwy way of getting around the problem).
Did you get the anvil?

--

-Mitch Utsey

I'm just worried about being nekkid
and neck deep in the Nile while some
Egyptian sails by Saying, " Hey,
where's all your stuff?"

-David Mandeville

Did Roman Medics refer to IV's as 4's?

What do little birdies see when they are knocked unconscious?

Think Globally, act tactically


Source for Owners Manals?

Hough, Brandon D.
 

Does anyone know of a source for repro. owner's manuals? I'd like one for
my truck, FC150, and also my CJ8.

thanks!

Brandon Hough
Residence Hall Computing Coordinator
IATS - University of Missouri-Columbia
HoughB@...

"Gods are like Jeeps. There's only one!"


More air on top?

 

Howdy,
This is partly a test to post to the new address, but mainly to ask a question:
Yesterday I went to look at an anvil and ended up as a spectator to a conversation about engines. I vaguely understand about "porting" and the reasons for putting in shorter connecting rods, but in doing so, the air/fuel mix above the piston doesn't get compressed as much. I thought the ideal was to get the most volume squeezed into the smallest space before igniting it? Or am I confusing myself with some basic jet engine theory from way back? Is the point of increasing the volume of air/fuel mixture the whole point, period (not the squeezing)? Did I just answer my own question(s)?
Straighten me out on this, please.
PS. When I asked the guys in yesterday's conversation the question about the compression, they got a glazed distant look about them. Makes me think they don't quite understand everything they know about this stuff, either.
JL


Re: introduction

 

Well let's try this introduction. Been on this list for a while but the
newer members might like an update as to who we all are. I have a 57
Pickemup with the l6-226. It is in Richard Grovers gallery at F2. The
truck is stock with the exception of white spoked wheels from a previous
owner.

Everything on the truck is legal with the exception of the emergency
brake. The glass is showing a little age (white stuff) in the corners of
the windshields and the rear window rubber needs to be replaced. One of
the vent windows is cracked.

The engine runs perfectly! There is a new carb, new exhaust (complete),
new electric fuel pump (6v) and a previous owner has done some work
internally on the engine because there are new gaskets in the engine.
The battery is fairly recent and the rear brake lines are too. There is
a little play in the front end which I suspect is in the kingpins but it
drives and tracks fine.

The frame is solid with hardly and evidence of decay. The spring pockets
are fine but there is rust on one of the crossmembers. The 4WD works
great with only minor seepage from the tranfer case and gearbox, probably
because I can't drive it much so the seals aren't staying wet. The dash
is intact with no cutouts for a radio. It has not been butchered and
still has the original seat. There are still traces of the floor mat and
some trim panels but not much remains except for the door panels.

The drivers side floor has been replaced. Servicable but not to suit a
purist The bed is pretty well shot but the rest of the box is decent. I
was going to use the materials from a mid seventies Chevy to put in an
oak floor (the dimensions are identical) and redo the rest. The cab is
in real good shape with the usual degradation of the running boards
attachment points. The firewall forward has a few dings but no rust. It
needs a coat of paint but the truck could be used as is.

Welcome all to the land of Willys.

Wayne


57 Willys Pickemup
97 Harley Superglide (mucho go-fast goodies)
89 Cherokee
77 Airstream MH
99 Harley Electraglide Standard (very, very soon)


Re: More air on top?

J. Loving
 

pigsmith@... wrote:

Yesterday I went to look at an anvil and ended up as a spectator to a
conversation about engines. I vaguely understand about "porting" and the
reasons for putting in shorter connecting rods, but in doing so, the
air/fuel mix above the piston doesn't get compressed as much. I thought
the ideal was to get the most volume squeezed into the smallest space
before igniting it? Or am I confusing myself with some basic jet engine
theory from way back? Is the point of increasing the volume of air/fuel
mixture the whole point, period (not the squeezing)? Did I just answer
my own question(s)?

Well, the point of porting IS to get more air/fuel in the cylinder.
Why they would put shorted con rods I have no idea, unless they were
having detonation problems (and then that is still a screwy way of
getting around the problem).
Did you get the anvil?

-Mitch Utsey

Yup, I got the anvil..
To get back to the short connecting rods-- their reasoning was that in
doing so the crank takes less time to make a complete revolution,
there's less weight to pull while doing so, and with boring out the
cylinders and putting in a nice snappy cam, the idea was to get more
"hit" out of the engine.
But I'm confused about the compression part. Enlarging the volume of air
seems counterproductive to the reasons for shortening the rods: yeah
sure, the crank goes around quicker, but the compression is reduced
because the rods are shorter....?
JL


Re: Getting it straight

 

Dear T Herb,

A little sarcasm here, but my attempt to deal with change.

I logged on to the "one list" and I thought I was supposed to use my password
somewhere, etc....

Didn't see any gates to pass through to use password, and archives buttons
didn't produce anything at all.

Am I with you all, or am I pre-Willys group computer abilities?

Respectfully (sort of, Dan)


Re: beds

Richard Grover
 

The beds are made by Precision Coach Works, Billerica, MA. I know Carl Walck
sells the beds, and there may be others vendors as well. Parts are
available. Phone numbers are on my web page.

Rick
www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys

-----Original Message-----
From: mx00656@... [mailto:mx00656@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 1998 5:00 AM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WillysTech] Sare carrier


From: mx00656@...

For whatever reason, I was unable to just hit "reply" to reply to Matt's
message about spare carriers.

Matt, I have an extra spare tire carrier from an FC170 if it is the same as
from a PU. Contact me off list.

RE: Bed Rebuild - I intend to do similar to my FC170 bed as I have not seen
a source for FC beds and may choose to shorten my FC170 to an FC160?
(numbers my own) anyway. I contacted Paul at WILLYS@... about
purchasing uprights only from their PU kits. They must be rather busy at
this time as they were not interested in part sales - maybe next year.
Another E-mail or two might prompt them into part sales. I can make the
uprights with a "break" but the neat little ridges at the corners would not
exist w/o tooling costs.

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Help support ONElist, while generating interest in your product or
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for more information.
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==========================================================


Re: What is this pull handle? (answer)

Steve Dunlop
 

Dave,

As the caption on the photo says, it is the control for the governor.

CJs with PTOs were frequently also fitted with an engine governor
so that the PTO-driven equipment could be operated at a constant
speed. Since there was no tachometer, the governor controls were
calibrated. I don't have the book handy, but the first notch was
about 2000 RPM and then each additional notch was another 100
RPM or so. The details vary by governor manufacturer, at least
two manufacturers were used.

I have an original ammeter that does not work very well that
could be rebuilt or at least would look right in the dash. Let
me know if you're interested.

Steve Dunlop
Nerstrand, Minnesota
1947 CJ-2a, pictures
-------------------------------------

Can someone tell me what the pull handle on the dash is, just to
the left of the steering wheel [between the steering wheel and
left windshield snap is? Not the headlight knob.


Re: creative help

 

No, it was a license plate holder that a vender was selling. Dirt Man


Re: T-90

wohleb
 

At 08:06 AM 10/15/98 -0500, you wrote:
From: Ron C <radigan@...>

After rebuilding my T-90, and then doing it again because I forgot to put
the oil shield in
place, I have a question. I have the utility manual for Jeep vehicles but
it does not cover the
6-230 engine...which I have. In the exploded view, it shows a washer
betweeen the rear main
bearing and the gear which drives the transfer case but mine did not have
such a washer when
disassembling it. Is this because someone else left it off or is it not
used on my 62 pu.

Thanks
Ron Cox
62 PU 6-230
Ron,
I just rebuilt the t-90 on my 63 wagon with 6-230 and if memory serves me
well I did not have a washer either. Perhaps that goes with the 29 tooth gear.
By the way--do you know where I can get the bronze gear that drives the oil
pump/dist? mine is trashed and I expect it to fail momentarily.
Rob Wohleb
"63" 6-230 Wagon
"51" Wagon W/Stude V8


Re: creative help

Chuck Pedretti
 

Was it california plate # UPCYDOWN ?

Chuck Pedretti MCSD
Consultant
Magenic Technologies

-----Original Message-----
From: DRTMAN@... [mailto:DRTMAN@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 1998 9:18 AM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WillysTech] Re: creative help


From: DRTMAN@... (KEITH DEWEY)

I don't have a personalized lic number but at the swp meet I saw a lic
holder that was cool, it was written upside down and said "If you can
read this - please turn me over". Dirt Man


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==========================================================
WillysTech

==========================================================


Re: creative help

 

I don't have a personalized lic number but at the swp meet I saw a lic
holder that was cool, it was written upside down and said "If you can
read this - please turn me over". Dirt Man


Re: a question on your msg to WillysTech

 

Ok, am I doing this right? All notes I'm getting from the list have the
original sender's address on them. So when I hit the reply button, my
reply is addressed only to the sender. On this note I put the WillysTech
address in the CC: Is this the correct procedure. I sent a reply out
before using just the reply button and got a bounced message. Damon in
Va., did you get my response? On to this response.

The farm hitch isn't a three point jobbie. It's just a big "C" that has
holes top and bottom for a large lynch pin to go through. I've seen these
used mainly for hay wagons but could be used like a pintle hitch. It
definitely isn't a hydraulic three point like on the '48 Ford tractor my
Dad has. Sorry.

Jack Starcher
Lewis Center, Ohio
'46 CJ2A




gizmonic@... on 10/14/98 06:15:46 PM

Please respond to gizmonic@... @ INTERNET



To: Jack Starcher/COH/ColumbiaGas@COLUMBIAGAS

cc:



Subject: a question on your msg to WillysTech





Greetings!
<much info about a '53 cj3b for sale for $200 snipped>

you mentioned this......
Farm implement hitch on rear.
is this by chance a 3-point hitch?
are the hydraulic controls with it...tank...pump????

if it is indeed a 3 point hitch....would you send me the owners
info?
Thanks for Your Time and Effort on this!

cheers,
gizmonic

'64 cj-5 (all stock...'cept for the detroit lockers)
in search of....
3-point hitch
snow blower
trencher
and any other "jeep of 101 uses" attachments i can find.



Gizmonic Science
P.O. Box 429
Leavenworth, wa
98826

****
Custom Fabrication Services
for....
ANABAT II
ZCAIM
Delay Switch / Battery Packs

****

gizmonic@...


PGP Public Key Fingerprint = 21 0D 03 26 E4 88 5A 56 7D D3 17 E6 FA 55 D6
F7


Om: Re: What is this pull handle?

MIkael Zakrisson <[email protected]
 

Reply to: Om: [WillysTech] Re: What is this pull handle?
Hi out there,
here follows the right url address to the "pull handle site"...



Notice! there should not be any blank space at the last of the address (as in earlier posts)!

Kind Regards

Mr Mikael Zakrisson
1946 CJ-2A #235XX



Jeeps are the best skrev:
From: "Jeeps are the best" <oslc@...>

Answering the question about not being able to open the site with the >pull handle knob...


orway 2a.htm

This address has a word-wrap problem, it won't fit on this mail page
in one line. >
You have to copy and paste one line at a time into the address
portion of your browser-mobile, then seamlessly weld them together
and engage power. Should work then. >
It is a slow load page but worth the time.

From the photos and caption together in the photos, we learned that
the knob is most likely for a govenor over-ride. Interestingly, my
CJ-2A has a vacant hole and rubber grommet [?] at that exact site,
thus my interest.

Dave Hatch


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to digest, go to the ONElist web site, at and
select the User Center link from the menu bar on the left.
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==========================================================
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Re: Om: What is this pull handle?

 

In a message dated 10/15/98 1:50:17 AM Central Daylight Time,
mikael.zakrisson@... writes:

<< There seem to be something wrong with the address, I cant get to the page.
Can you post the wright address to the picture page so I can look at them?

Thanks!

Mikael Zakrisson
CJ-2A 1946 #235XX
Sweden
>>
The address needed the space removed between Norway and 2a.

Here it is. If it splits into two lines remove the unwanted spaces.



Rick S