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Re: Howdy or G'day
Thank you mate<grin>
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Ben. Welcome back Ben! |
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Re: 6v starters on 12v.
Jerry Adams
Message: 8Just a word or two about using 6v starters on 12 volt systems. First of all, yes, the starter will work as is. Yes, it will get hot quicker, much hotter. Yes, it will work for a while if your motor is well-tuned and you don't have to grind on the starter. BUT there is a potentially *big* problem if the Bendix drive doesn't engage the ring gear on the flywheel. It's kind of complicated, but when an electric motor is running, the rotating armature (technically the "rotor") has electric current flowing through it which is proportional to the applied voltage and an opposing voltage called the "back EMF" that is generated in the windings by the fact that they are cutting the magnetic field produced by the field coils (the "stator"). A rotor will turn at the RPM required to create a back EMF that is equal to the applied voltage, taking into account the work being done by the rotor. Skipping all the physics, this happens at an RPM that is determined by several factors, the primary ones being the number of turns in the rotor, the current flowing though them, the work being done, and the strength of the magnetic field. If no work is being done, this RPM can be quite high. A properly designed motor can run unloaded at its rated voltage and the various parts of the rotor will be strong enough to withstand the centrifugal forces that are trying to make it fly apart. If you double the applied voltage, the system will establish equilibrium at whatever RPM it takes to make the back EMF equal the applied voltage, again taking into account any work being done. If the starter is craning the motor, the load will keep the RPM low enough so there is no danger of things flying apart, which is why there is no problem *unless the Bendix doesn't engage the flywheel gear*. If this happens, the motor will run virtually unloaded (only friction and wind drag will supply the load), and the RPM will be quite high - possibly high enough so that the centrifugal force tears the armature apart! Some of this can be mitigated by design choices. I think that the early jeep motors were what is called "shunt wound," which means that the fields are in parallel with the armature. If that's the case, the increased voltage will cause more current to pass through the field coils, which makes more magnetic field, which means that the armature doesn't have to turn as fast to reach equilibrium. Still, the equilibrium point may be at too high an RPM, and cause the armature to fail. The strength of the field is proportional to the current flowing through the coil, and the number of turns of wire in it. A field wound for 6 volts may not have sufficient number of turns to produce the necessary magnetic flux required to keep the armature RPM at a safe level, even with the increased voltage. When I converted my jeep over to 12 volts, I took the starter motor down to a good "automotive electric shop" and had it completely gone through (new bearings, brushes, turn the commutator, etc.). When they had it apart, I had them rewind the fields so that they produce the proper magnetic field at 12 volts that will keep the unloaded RPM within safe limits. It will not keep the armature from overheating if I crank for too long, but it will keep it from flying apart if the bendix doesn't catch. They charged me $35 extra for rewinding the fields. I feel it was well worth it. Just my two cents worth. Jerry |
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Re: Digest Number 6
KEITH DEWEY
I have repeatedly tried to pull up the msgs ref'd in Dig #6 to no avail.
The new system is too complicated and takes too much time to go thru to get the individual msgs. Unless u can show me the benifits of the new system and how to retreive the individual msgs quickly, I will no longer participate. It looks to me like someone was sold a bill of goods and the salesman didn't understand how the old system works and therefore has no clue on how to make it better. Dirt Man |
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Re: Chinese Made stuff
Joseph Dante
I base my opinion on economics as much as a military threat. I am a
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believer in fair trade not free trade. I find it difficult to support any country that exploits its people in the fashion that many other countries including china do. I do buy Chinese and other foreign goods from time to time when an economic US alternative is not available. I in no way wish to imply a question of any persons patriotism. In addition I do not hold it against anyone that dose not agree with my point of view as the right to the expression of ones point of view is what makes this the greatest country in the world. Joseph -----Original Message-----
From: Dave and Robin Samuelson [SMTP:lucky@...] Sent: Saturday, October 17, 1998 10:29 AM To: WillysTech@... Subject: [WillysTech] Chinese Made stuff From: Dave and Robin Samuelson <lucky@...> The only problem I have with Harbour Freight is that they mainly sellproducts from mainland China. I don't buy products from Mainland China. I still goto HF, but I read where the product is made. Granted, this sets me up to buy at aslightly higher price, but I think it is worth not supporting an enemy govt.just my two cents worth.Well, my friend, I have been there, done that. I spent a week in Mainland China, at the port of QingDao and must say that the Chinese are a quite nice and very polite people. Enemy, perhaps not. Competition, yes. Granted, they are the only nation that poses a military threat to ours, but so does Korea, and as far as that goes, it's a pick em type of deal. They produce a decent product for the money, and though I do not feel the same as you on the subject, I respect your position. Also, I acquired a few of their officers' cover emblems, uniform items, and a "siberian hat" of black rabbit fur for about the equivalent of a case of beer. Oh, and by the way, did anyone see on CNN about a year ago the Marines and Navy sailors that did the Evening Colors Ceremony on Communist China's soil? I was there......and it was awesome! Dave ------------------------------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe from this mailing list, or to change your subscription to digest, go to the ONElist web site, at and select the User Center link from the menu bar on the left. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ========================================================== WillysTech ========================================================== |
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Re: Chinese Made stuff
mitch utsey
Dave and Robin Samuelson wrote:
Well, my friend, I have been there, done that. I spent a week in Mainland China, at theYep. it is a personal preference type thing. I don't have anything against anyone who does by chinese (I almost bought a chinese SKS a short while ago). They produce a decent product for the money, and though I do not feel the same as you onAs an enemy, I respect the chinese. I would much rather tangle with the Russian army than the Chinese. I would love to have some chinese gear, tho', so I envy you. -- -Mitch Utsey I'm just worried about being nekkid and neck deep in the Nile while some Egyptian sails by Saying, " Hey, where's all your stuff?" -David Mandeville Did Roman Medics refer to IV's as 4's? What do little birdies see when they are knocked unconscious? Think Globally, act tactically |
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Re: Spicer Savy part 2
Chris Croyle
Rus,
Did you install a new Shaft Pilot Bushing? After installation, my inside bushing diameter was too small to fit the Output Clutch Shaft so I had to re-size it. The re-sizing had to be exact or the or the "Output 'Clutch' Shaft" would wobble and make the "Output Shaft" hard to turn. Chris Croyle 1961 Willys 4wd PU |
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Re: Spicer-18 woes
Rus Curtis
Merl,
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I believe the output shaft is removable by itself but not easily. I've got mine up on the bench right now and have been messing with the output shaft and noticed that with the removal of the rear cap and the front yoke, the shaft can be driven (to press out the rear bearing cup). Once the bearing is free the shaft will slide out the back - provided you spread open and remove the snap ring up on the front of the shaft. The gears can then fall out the bottom. I do think it's easier to monkey with up on a bench though. If the gear ends up being tight on the shaft (after removal/ inspection) another thing to check is the bushing inside the front end of the output shaft. When you have time, I'd like you to check something for me. On the 'other' t-case you're using for comparison (I only have one), how much mesh do you have on the output shaft gear and the large ring on the intermediate gear (the ones with the slanted teeth)? On mine the output shaft gear is approximately 1/16th" further forward than the intermediate gear. I'm wondering if this is too much. -rus -----Original Message-----
From: Merl <hollow@...> To: WillysTech <WillysTech@...> Date: Saturday, October 17, 1998 7:33 PM Subject: [WillysTech] Spicer-18 woes From: Merl <hollow@...> I've posted before on a mysterious noise in my drive-train. It happens primarily when rolling to a stop, its inconsistant but when it happens its like a low vibration or rumble...like a loose bearing or a loose gear on a shaft. To make a long story short, I think I've found the source and I need a bit of advice. The noise seems to be comming from my Spicer-18 transfer case, specifically from the "output shaft gear" (I'm getting all these names from my repro shop manual, the blow-up picture of the transfer case). This gear is *very* wobbly on the "output shaft". After isolating the noise to the transfer case and taking the pan off, I can jiggle this gear on the shaft a LOT. Putting a little rotational preasure on this gear, the teeth that mesh into the larger intermediate gear actually slide backwards and forwards almost 1/8 of an inch. I took the pan off of another transfer case I've got just to compare, and it isn't near as wobbly as the one in the Jeep...so I've got a high confidence level that this is indeed my problem. My question is, can the "output shaft gear" and perhaps the "output shaft" itself be replaced without removing the whole transfer case? The intermediate shaft was replaced about 1000 miles ago, and I believe it to be in good shape. Everything else up there looks to be OK, just this one wobbly gear so I hate to take the whole thing down. Any advice is appreciated, TATIA (Thanks A Ton In Advance). Merl ------------------------------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe from this mailing list, or to change your subscription to digest, go to the ONElist web site, at and select the User Center link from the menu bar on the left. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ========================================================== WillysTech ========================================================== |
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Re: Spicer-18 woes
Chris Croyle
I can't give you a direct answer to your Spicer-18 gear
removal, but in order to remove the "#43 Output Shaft Gear" (Serv. Manual for Jeep Utility Veh.) you have to remove the #46 Output Shaft. And to remove the Output Shaft you'll need to remove sometimes difficult to remove snap rings. Those gears won't fit through the Spicer-18 bearing holes. Is your Output Shaft wobbly too? You'll be able to tell better if you disconnect your drive shaft and shake the Output Shaft. That's what lead me to my re-build. It turned out that my bearing$ and gear$ where OK :-) but the rear bearing adjustment shims were out of adjustment. The Output Bearing Cup and Bearing weren't holding the Output Shaft snug enough, thus making things fit loose inside my transfercase. Since I had everything apart, I replaced all the old bearings. If you have to remove the Spicer-18, (for encouragement) it's wasn't too difficult for me to do - I'm just a shade-tree mechanic. I hope your gears and output shaft are good - or at least your spares are. They can be expensive to replace new. Chris Croyle 1961 Willys 4wd PU From: Merl <hollow@...>drive-train. It happens primarily when rolling to a stop, its inconsistant butwhen it happens its like a low vibration or rumble...like a loose bearingor a loose gear on a shaft. To make a long story short, I thinkI've found the source and I need a bit of advice.case, specifically from the "output shaft gear" (I'm gettingall these names from my repro shop manual, the blow-up picture of thetransfer case). This gear is *very* wobbly on the "output shaft". Afterisolating the noise to the transfer case and taking the pan off, Ican jiggle this gear on the shaft a LOT. Putting a littlerotational preasure on this gear, the teeth that mesh into the largerintermediate gear actually slide backwards and forwards almost 1/8 of aninch. I took the pan off of another transfer case I've got just tocompare, and it isn't near as wobbly as the one in the Jeep...so I'vegot a high confidence level that this is indeed my problem.the "output shaft" itself be replaced without removing the wholetransfer case? The intermediate shaft was replaced about 1000 miles ago,and I believe it to be in good shape. Everything else up there looksto be OK, just this one wobbly gear so I hate to take the wholething down. Advance).
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Spicer-18 woes
Merl
I've posted before on a mysterious noise in my drive-train. It happens
primarily when rolling to a stop, its inconsistant but when it happens its like a low vibration or rumble...like a loose bearing or a loose gear on a shaft. To make a long story short, I think I've found the source and I need a bit of advice. The noise seems to be comming from my Spicer-18 transfer case, specifically from the "output shaft gear" (I'm getting all these names from my repro shop manual, the blow-up picture of the transfer case). This gear is *very* wobbly on the "output shaft". After isolating the noise to the transfer case and taking the pan off, I can jiggle this gear on the shaft a LOT. Putting a little rotational preasure on this gear, the teeth that mesh into the larger intermediate gear actually slide backwards and forwards almost 1/8 of an inch. I took the pan off of another transfer case I've got just to compare, and it isn't near as wobbly as the one in the Jeep...so I've got a high confidence level that this is indeed my problem. My question is, can the "output shaft gear" and perhaps the "output shaft" itself be replaced without removing the whole transfer case? The intermediate shaft was replaced about 1000 miles ago, and I believe it to be in good shape. Everything else up there looks to be OK, just this one wobbly gear so I hate to take the whole thing down. Any advice is appreciated, TATIA (Thanks A Ton In Advance). Merl |
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Re: Welcome Bill & list commentary
Bill Brennan
Richard,
Thanks for the warm welcome. I am located roughly 30min east of Sacramento, CA. I have been visiting your site for quite some time now and have witnessed its rapid proliferation. I have been eager to send you a scan of my truck but I have been unsuccessful in doing so thus far. My girlfriend has a scanner but the quality of resolution is less than poor. I checked my e-mail this morning and found that I had 37 new messages! Believe me, I will certainly follow your request and only send mail to Willys Tech when I deem it necessary. PS: If you have an address that you are willing to send me, I will mail you some photos of the work in progress. Unfortunately I only have single copies of the photographs I took when I first purchased the truck and hence, cannot send you those. Bill |
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Chinese Made stuff
Dave and Robin Samuelson
The only problem I have with Harbour Freight is that they mainly sell productsWell, my friend, I have been there, done that. I spent a week in Mainland China, at the port of QingDao and must say that the Chinese are a quite nice and very polite people. Enemy, perhaps not. Competition, yes. Granted, they are the only nation that poses a military threat to ours, but so does Korea, and as far as that goes, it's a pick em type of deal. They produce a decent product for the money, and though I do not feel the same as you on the subject, I respect your position. Also, I acquired a few of their officers' cover emblems, uniform items, and a "siberian hat" of black rabbit fur for about the equivalent of a case of beer. Oh, and by the way, did anyone see on CNN about a year ago the Marines and Navy sailors that did the Evening Colors Ceremony on Communist China's soil? I was there......and it was awesome! Dave |
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Re: Transfercase
Well, I checked my books. It's (of course) non-trivial to remove the
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transfer case. The Army manual describes removing the transmission and transfer case as a unit, then separating the two. Here what it says about removing the transfer case: 5. 6. It descibes how to wire in the transmission main shaft, so it doesn't come out when you pull the transfer case. Then: "7. Support transfer case and with a rawhide" (got one? :-) ) "mallet or brass rod and hammer, tap lightly on end of shaft and at the same time draw the transfer case away from the transmission. Be careful not to lose transmission gear shift interlock plunger. The transmission main shaft rear bearing No. 34, Fig. 4 should slide out of trtansfer case and remain in transmission." So I partially remembered correctly. It takes a little persuasion to separate the t-case from the t-mission. Hope this helps. Good luck! Curt Flowers, 1942 MB -----Original Message----- |
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Re: Any one want / need a L-134?
Joseph Dante
Dave is the LA for Los Angeles or Louisiana. I recently turned down a
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complete 4.3 in lieu of long block that I am going to rebuild and install in my truck. S-10 with over 200k miles. I do have interest in your L-134. I can discuss the particulars with you off list and when I find out if the complete 4.3 is still available for me to obtain for the trade. I assume you meant Los Angeles and would be willing to go half way or to end of your delivery range to meet you. I would be glad to buy the coffee. :) Joseph -----Original Message-----
From: Dave and Robin Samuelson [SMTP:lucky@...] Sent: Saturday, October 17, 1998 12:10 AM To: WillysTech@... Subject: [WillysTech] Any one want / need a L-134? From: Dave and Robin Samuelson <lucky@...> I have a L-134, stock, in running condition, that I would like to sell/trade for a Chevy 4.3L V6 or 5.7L V8. You can have all the stuff that goes along with the motor, I.E. Fuel system, Carb, Radiator, Etc. However, the swap motor must be fuel Injected and as complete as possible. Just as long as there is more than a long block.... I am looking in the immediate future, IE Now, for anyone who wants it. Or, make me an offer I can't refuse! I am located in Phoenix, AZ, and make trips to LA on occasion. Of course, if the price is right and a few bucks are thrown in for delivery, I might deliver within a 500 mile radius, so long as you are paynig for gas, and a cup of coffee on my arrival! Dave ------------------------------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe from this mailing list, or to change your subscription to digest, go to the ONElist web site, at and select the User Center link from the menu bar on the left. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ========================================================== WillysTech ========================================================== |
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Re: Any one want / need a L-134?
Matt Phillimore
Oh, sure, I both want and need a L-134. I'd be willing to drive all
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the way to Phoenix to get it, if it was the right price. Unfortuanately, the only 4.3 I have access to right now would be in the truck I'd have to drive down there, which isn't mine anyways. I did see one in a paper this week for $200, but I don't figure it's in great shape for that price, or doesn't have all that stuff you want. But I could check into it. Matt 48 4WD PU Manhattan, KS From: Dave and Robin Samuelson <lucky@...> |
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Howdy or G'day
Rus Curtis
Welcome back Ben!
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-rus -----Original Message-----
From: Ben Page <bpage@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Friday, October 16, 1998 7:11 PM Subject: [WillysTech] Re: Member list update From: "Ben Page" <bpage@...> > Here's the latest version. I'm sending it in Excel 97 and csv formats. > I've formatted it in landscape mode for better printouts. I've also > added lines to make it easier to follow across. > > Please check the model designations. For those that weren't too specific > I've tried to make my best guess at the model, based on the year. Some > years had multiple engine options so I could easily be wrong. Just drop > me a line. > > For those wishing to be added send e-mail to me directly. Format your > message as follows: > G'day Glenn, Please add to your list mate. best, Ben. > Last Name PAGE > First Name BEN > Location (City and Province/State) ADELAIDE SOUTH AUSTRALIA > E-Mail address bpage@p[icknowl.com.au > Model (as accurate as you can be)1942 GPW, 1943 MB, 1965 6-230 PICKUP, 1984 GRAND WAGONEER > > > Have a good weekend. > > Glenn > > -- > Glenn Dudley (gdudley@...) Lewiston, Maine > > "Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and > make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly > right or good enough." - Sir Henry Royce, co-founder of Rolls Royce > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe from this mailing list, or to change your subscription to digest, go to the ONElist web site, at and select the User Center link from the menu bar on the left. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ========================================================== WillysTech ========================================================== |
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Re: Connectivity check
Rus Curtis
Ron,
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I'm up in Lawrence. Work out in Topeka with the Air National Guard. -rus -----Original Message-----
From: Ron C <radigan@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Friday, October 16, 1998 8:06 AM Subject: [WillysTech] Re: Connectivity check Where at in Kansas? I am by Wichita. Ron Cox Andover, Ks 62 pu 6-230 Rus Curtis wrote: Just checking to see if I made the move correctly. I've got a '54 CJ3B and live in KS. Deep in the middle of a frame-off rebuild. -rus |
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Re: Starter bushing
David,
Presuming that the starter motor is all OK(mechanically that is),- I would suggest that you check all (and I mean ALL) your earthing points. A bad earth is common to your type of probem. In particular I suggest that you check that the earth strap (or straps) from the engine block to the chassis are very well grounded and in good condition. Take them off and using sandpaper (or grinder or files) make sure that they are bare metal when you put them back on. After reconnecting them, coat over the top with some lubricant such as vaseline jelly to protect from rust. Re the Bushing. The bush he is talking about is the one in the bell housing where the end of your starter shaft goes. It's really easy to get out. Sometimes there is a hole behind it (in the bell housing), in which case you can push it out using a bronze drift. If there's no hole you can extract it by using a small sliding hammer or bush extractor. Once it is out you then have the OD measurement and the shaft on the starter will give you the ID measurement. Putting it in: A good auto sparky will either find you the correct bronze bush or he will turn one up for you. Be sure that you soak the bronze bush for 24 hours in about 30 grade oil, then carefully reinsert it using a bronze drift. Now slide your starter back in. If your earthing is good, your starter is good and the new bush doesn't allow any sideways "lash", the little girl will start as easy as pie -every time<grin>. So there you have it. Easy really<chuckle> Hope this helps. All the best, Ben. From: "David H. Hatch / N9ZRT" <oslc@...>Ben Page |
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Re: T-90
Turner 4WD will get the manuals for you.
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All the best, Ben. From: wohleb <wohleb@...> |
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Re: Member list update
Here's the latest version. I'm sending it in Excel 97 and csv formats.G'day Glenn, Please add to your list mate. best, Ben. Last Name PAGE |
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