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Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the WiringForDCC group. File : /MGL Dominos/INTERCHANGE DOMINOS.jpg Uploaded by : lafoote

List, I am in the process of trying to figure out how to wire the new Atlas Code 55 NScale Turnouts for a full DCC layout. I am using a Digitrax Chief System. Your wonderful website doesn't seem to

I'm glad to hear that people are watching the resistance soldering video and getting something out of it. You're right, the solder doesn't stick to the hemostat. I think the hemostate is chrome

I will be purchasing a Resistance Soldering station soon but have a question regarding demonstration video on WiringForDCC site: It appears you are clamping down other end of wire with a hemostat or

I've got a Digitrax 163KOA decoder that I am trying to install in a KAto EF65 Engine. I need clarification on what I should do with the wiring when I install this decoder. Can anyone give me a step by

The Newark part number is for a metal film resistor, Not wire wound. I just like to see things run cool to the touch as much as possible. For 54 cents a resistor, it's money well spent. wrote: worse!

Sorry...typo...39 ohm series...somehow I must have hit the zero button right before I hit the send button.

Power is an odd beast and is governed by I^2R . In Series, I remains constant, but you break up your R (in series Resistance is addative), and therefore your voltage drop. You can arrive at the same

Mark, shouldn't that read .....1/2W 390Ohm resistors in "parallel"? I thought wattages are additive in parallel and resistance is additive in series? Or am I all mixed up? Ken wrote: heat. will give

Mark, shouldn't that read .....1/2W 390Ohm resistors in "parallel"? I thought wattages are additive in parallel and resistance is additive in series? Or am I all mixed up? Ken wrote: heat. will give

Do not use wirewound resistors. They will actually make things worse! Hot is a relative term. Power resistors normally are hot to the touch. There is nothing wrong with using larger resistors if your

Blair, One more thought. If some of your track is hidden, it one more reason for making track polarity reversals and switch controls occur automatically. For example: a train exiting out of loop L

Reread Allan's ideas on DCC friendly switches at the link listed below. The bane of DCC is poor electrical connections and occasional short circuits can cause problems. Yes, you will want all rails

Blair, My solutions 2 and 3 using relays do not have any real drawbacks. You simply add more insulating rail gaps in the appropriate places and wire up a DPDT relay(s) to control power to those

<MBeckemeier@w...> wrote: > Thanks for the info Mike. I had already decided to use a 2 watt, now I'll probably go with the 3 as you used. Thanks for the info. Ken over 90 to C317C104M5U5CA.

<MBeckemeier@w...> wrote: > Thanks for the info Mike. I had already decided to use a 2 watt, now I'll probably go with the 3 as you used. Thanks for the info. Ken over 90 to C317C104M5U5CA.

Regarding the values of the Resistor and Capacitor: I can attest to the resistors getting toasty. I had to install over 90 of them on our club layout. Even the 1 watt resistor got quite hot. I

Hello Don Thanks for the informative and very useful response; yes the explanations are excellent. As an electronics tech, everything makes sense. Your comments about relays (and switches) make me

Thank you for your reply,Don.What kind of switches will be best for HO- DCC use.I'm presently using "Fleischmann-Profi"with motor & ballast.Are switches,which have all rails energized,better for this

No offense taken and I agree. As originally stated it could be misinterpreted by someone who is trying to follow the directions written by someone else word for word. But then, I didn't write that.