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I have a layout with two ~ 4 x 8 sections(mining & industrial) powered by an NCE power cab. Some time ago I did some scenery modifications on the mining section (that did not involve track mods). When I attempted to resume operations, nothing worked including the power cab. Actions: o removed all locos and rolling stock from both sections o disconnected the one track link between the two sections o disconnected an auto reverser o checked spacing on plastic rail joiners around a peco double slip switch o then applied buzzer tester to each of test track and industrial section: no buzzer sound on test track but a very faint buzzer sound on all track in industrial section (except the section isolated from the double slip switch) o routed power cab to test track only and ran a loco with no issues o then reconnected power cab to only the industrial section main bus and also reconnected the auto reverser and successfully ran a loco on all industrial track Questions: why would I get a faint buzzer sound but still be able to run a loco? Have yet to tackle the mining section. Thx in advance for any and all input Ted

Is there a way to make a 10 Amp-18Volt dcc system safe for HO Scale Locomotive Motors by inserting something ( a resistor? ) between the rails & the dcc decoder? I am cross posting to multiple groups in hopes of getting an answer. Thanks for your help & replies. loren martell Aloha, OR 97007

Crossovers are probably the most common way modelers choose to reverse the direction of travel of their trains. I think they do this without knowing they are creating a reversing section and may not know anything about wiring reversing sections. So, to the introduction on reversing, I have added a few images and some discussion sensitizing modelers to reversing when building crossovers. Follow the link at: https://wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm#a1 The reversing crossover discussion is in the introduction immediately after the train length discussion; which is also important to crossovers as they tend to be short compared to train length. Allan Gartner Wiring for DCC

I created a photo in crossover wiring. I have each turnout isolated with plastic joiners marked in black in the picture. The dots are where I have the wires. positive and negative self explanatory. I have PECO Electrofrogs. The frogs are hooked up to a tam valley frog juicer. No other modifications were made to the turnout other than removing the spring. Why am I getting a short? Thanks Kurt

Dan Foltz <DannyDont@...> added the photo album Pine Bluff Reversing Loops : I schematic of the layout and potention solution for auto reversers. The following photos have been uploaded to the Pine Bluff Reversing Loops photo album of the [email protected] group. 25-02-24 Reversing Loop Final Answer.PNG By: Dan Foltz <DannyDont@...>

I asked this question pon the EasyDCC Forum and received some good information. When starting to look at auto reversers I came across your page. I will include what is the finalized drawing based on feedback from the EasyDCC Group. Then I will add my question. I don't see where I can add an image. I do not believe I can describe my issue without it. What should I do?

Hello all, For two separate G-Scale layouts (one inside and one in the garden) that will never run simultaneously, I am looking for a 10A booster supplying at least 20V but preferably 22V that will give me the possibiity of running it with my Power Cab (inside) or Power Pro (outside). That one booster would be positioned inside or outside, depending on where I want to run. In both cases, I'd simply NOT connect the standard booster (inside the command station) to the track at all, but rather have the external big booster read its data input from the track outputs of the internal boosters, in much the same way a packet sniffer would. I'm having trouble finding any relevant hits on the internet, probably because I can't get the search terms right. I'm sure such boosters exist (in fact, I found one discussion site mentioning them, but without any brands, links, or other identifying content). But they are probably a tiny minority. And finally: any DIY booster creation is out of the question. I am 100% a software guy and cannot be trusted with electronic components. Does anyone have any further information? Or am I chasing a uicorn? Thanks! Wouter

I have NCE and PECO electrofrogs. I have isolated my layout in to sections which is powered through a separate circuit breaker. All of of PECO turnouts have the Tam Valley frog juicers. Each PECO turnout is isolated with plastic joiners. As you can see from the picture I have a reversing loop. How many automatic reversers do I need and can you explain where I need to place the wires. Thanks for all your help. Where the painters tape is, is where I run into my problem. Green is positive, white is negative. Please see pictures under the same title Kurt Please let me know if you have any questions

Allan, greetings from the temporarily frozen High Plains. 19 degrees, freezing fog and light snow. Crackling fire and glass of wine evening! Anyway, if I hooked up a vintage voltmeter or ammeter across the leads for a power district, what would I expect for a reading? I have used a regular VOM in the past, and although it is probably in inaccurate reading, I have used the reading as a reference between and among power districts. This is all just for fun. Jerry Michels

This question is probably like asking how long is a piece of string! What is the optimum/maximum voltage for operating DCC and how do you measure it? I am running a NCE system and at small load (0.35 Amps) the SB5 output I have 16.5 V using the RRAmpmeter and 17,7 V using my Snap On multimeter. What are the constraints/considerations? Thanks Len

Hi group, I have a point to point O Scale layout, currently around 40+ feet long, partially converted to DCC. I use a NCE Power Cab, Currently, I have a single power district fed by two 5 amp NCE boosters. I have learned it would be better to have two power districts, each powered by one of the boosters. Questions: 1. From pre-DCC days, I have a logical power district ending with staggered rail gaps about 6" apart. Is that a problem? Do the gaps in the rail have to line up? 2. Currently, my single power district, ends with a homemade snubber, at the current end of point to point. Do I need a snubber at the end of each power district? In other words, do I need to add over at the the border between to the two power districts? 3. Also, the layout is set up to run either with 2-rail or from an overhead trolley wire. When using the overhead, both rails are the return. I know I will have to gap the wire at the power district border. The overhead wire, phospher bronze, no doubt has greater resistance than the rail (.100 steel). So is a 30 foot long power district for the overhead OK? So far, I have had no problems running from the overhead using the single district. 4. Finally, to settle a dispute, is nickel silver or steel rail the better conductor, have the least electrical resistance? Thanks for any advice, John Bishop

Allen, My club is building a new layout and will be using RR-Circuits LLC. My question is do I need snubbers at the end of each untwisted sub bus? Thanks Bill

I have added Peter Herron's invisible feeder method to my website. Follow this link: https://www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm#a1 Allan Gartner Wiring for DCC

Have question on feeder wiring. Will send photo to you in the Pictures folder. Is this ok to have bare wire at bend touching side of track or should the bend still have the insulation touching. Thanks

1. On page 55 of June 2021 MR issue the soldering set up has clamping wire to be soldered to track with forceps. 2. Then apply drop of gel liquid flux to the wire and then squeeze tweezers on spot you want to solder. 3. Seems like forceps and tweezers are on same spot. Seems like both are in same spot. Am I mis-reading????? 4. Any preference on what brand of forceps???? Thanks.

Looking for help on where to locate auto reverse units on this track plan. Not sure how to attack this. Uploaded track Plan to a folder named "New Track Plan 26jan25" Thanks for taking a look! -- Rob Fuhst Grand Haven, MI

Does anyone have any recommendations for wiring harnesses/connectors for individual 8mm LEDs? I'd like to avoid soldering feeders directly to the leads to provide the opportunity to swap the LEDs out at a later time. James McNab thehillsline.com

My layout is NCE DCC. I plan a single track segment, separate from the remainder of the layout, serving a coal mining complex. I plan to run a Bachmann Shay upgraded to DCC on the track segment. I would like the track segment to be wired to reverse the direction of the Shay as it passes some detection points, so the loco moves back and forth (rather than being merely a static display). I have found electronics which will do this for DC powered street cars (and presumably DC powered locos like the Shay). I have not been able to locate anything equivalent for DCC. I am not technically skilled where electronics are concerned. I do not do JMRI or even programming of my own locos for that matter. (I am fortunate to have a very accomplished colleague who enjoys programming and he does that for me.). So a solution which requires complex or sophisticated wiring or programming of custom-built equipment is not something that will work for me. Plug and play is critical for me. Is there an easy-to-install product which would accomplish my objective that is compatible with my NCE DCC system? Bill D N&W Steam Only

The former employees of All Electronics have formed a new electronic surplus store called Aretronics: https://aretronics.com/ I just found out about this new company today. I briefly looked at what they have for sale. They have some of the things that All Electronics had. They don't have a huge selection of things to buy. Maybe they are just getting started. In any event, look over their website and bookmark it. Give them a few months. It would be great if they can bring back a lot of what we liked about All Electronics. Allan Gartner

On one of the web pages, there is a very simple set of instructions to fit a Soundtraxx decoder to this locomotive. I’m not sure what model number Soundtraxx decoder it’s referring to, but are the same set of instructions able to be used with the Steam 2 TSU4400 decoder? It obviously wouldn’t need to use to chuff sensor or wiring as the decoder provides for its own chuff ratings. Any help here would be very much appreciated. Cheers Martin (Mohawk Valley Railroad)