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I have both a CWHotline and a WinkeyUSB keyer. While the CWHotline device is a neat project, I’d much rather get on VBand with my Bencher paddles and WinkeyUSB. Is this possible? Thanks Chris

Good Morning I just received a brand new WKUSB. I am trying to use it with a Icom 7300 and N1MM. Using N1mm and with the correct port selected for the winkey, n1mm can place the 7300 into TX but there is no rf output or even sidetone. I can push the red button on the top of the winkeyer and it will transmit test with rf output and side tone. I have changed USB cables. I have checked USB port settings. The only oddity I see is that when I plugged in the USB cable to the winkeyer on start up, it show a CH340 device driver by some place called wch.cn and shows an odd port number Port_#0006_Hub_#0003, instead of the FTDI on my other winkeyer I use with my 7610. I've been fighting this for several days. Any suggestions? oh and one other thing, using the winkeyer I cannot adjust the speed with my paddles plugs in back. It is set around 10 wpm and will not move. thanks

Hi all and I hope you are well. I got around to building the Open QRP Transceiver that Steve Designed. I am a nut for transceivers QRP that are more or less one-off . History: About 2 years ago, I bought an unbuilt kit from another ham who never attempted to build the transceiver. It is fairly complicated. This board rev dated from 2011 or so. I built this older kit with the same care I built the one that show in the pics below. One thing is that I could never get it to work.. I spent hours on it, Talked with Steve over email, but again could not resolve the issues.. (the receiver just would not work). I set this aside until last year when I noted that steve made some modifications to the circuit board with some fixes (I need to compare as I could not find a list of the changes. ) So... This year and last: https://www.k1elsystems.com/openQRP.html I purchased another kit directly from Steve and received it about 6 mo ago. I just got around to putting it together in the last week or so.. During this cold snap.. next to a fire and my engineer cats. I am a VERY experienced builder and know what I am about (kinda sorta.. must have built or homebrewed 50 tranceivers). I built the rig with some pieces and parts that did not match the schematic (the schematic ruled). I also had a bad Audio Amp that was new.. but I had another. I made sure every step of the way with the 5v, 8v, 6v supplies and took care measuring each component against the schematic. There were some missing components,, caps and the such. The instruction are not really step by step,, one MUST be able to build from a schematic and pictures.. the type of component matters.. Ceramic, vs poly, vs..mylar. I had some very nice and stable small ceramic tuning caps (2-30pf) that I used in the VFO to set it up. One MUST have the way to accurately measure the 2.084mhz (at 7.000mhz, 40m). I found that the display out of the factory is sensitive to the clock used for the PIC. The frequency displayed on the LCD WILL be incorrect in my case it read 400 hz hi (7.040 or there abouts). One must use the setup to set the frequency to (Tuning all the way ccw, to 7.000mhz while monitoring the frequency of the VFO). My freq set via a GSPDO stabilized freq meter ( FA-3 GB7TL freq counter). One must have a decent LCR bridge and a good DVM. The receiver was checked at various frequencies and levels.. it is sensitive to at least -107dbm (1 microvolt).. and it is quiet. (Subjective better than my K2). Transmitter was set up with no difficulty. But one must be able to wind a transformer by the schematic (this was one of the changes from an IF Can to a wound transformer) and make SURE that the final case is not shorted on the small metal bar heat sink.. I had to file the hole a bit for the insulator spacer to go in correctly.. Transmits 6.2 watts with no difficulty.. without the heat sink the final gets hot enough for you to say "ouch".. after a few "tune" cycles to set the bias voltage. The receiver is quite sensitive with a BW from 6,999mhz to 7076.7mhz. with the neat and stable VFO that is used. The case is wonderful and well made. The RF gain is wired backwards... from the directions, but I did not change it.. it also controls the power switch.. Notes: 1. Not a large display but it works great.. Mind the notes about being careful with it.. it is fragile at the top (where the wires go to the display. Dont ask me how I know. 2. The top of the case will be on and off.. because there is a manual volume control on the board.. but not at the front of the case.. (I may change this.. but not sure) 3. This is a VERY quiet receiver. 4. Transmitter is stable. and nice. 5. NOT a KIT for beginners without test equipment. 6. I had fun building it and was very happpy that all came right up when I powered it... (except the faulty Audio Amp TDA7052A) 7. The PSOC is really fun too! CW read on louder signals and always on sent CW.. wonderful. I might order another from Steve to build a 30M version. I see very few postings here about anything other than Keyers.. I thought you all might be interested. Now to

Hi everyone, I have the sidetone level set at 4 and I can barely hear it at all. Is there a way to make the sidetone louder? Thanks and 73, Mike W2IY

I cannot get a working comport to use with N3FJP. The app wants to use com 4, but when keyed it errors with com 4 not available. The comport scanner wants to use com 4 as well. The buttons on the WKUSB key up and work fine. Any help? Need for NAQP tomorrow. Tnx. Bob -- K6RWM

I have tried til I'm blue in the face and looked on this group, Thetis and a barrage of others and videos to boot. I have an ANAN 7000 DLEMKII running Thetis v. 2.10.3.6 (x64). My physical equipment is in my shack, 45' out my back door and I run Thetis on a computer on the same network in my office. I can use MRP40 with a keyboard, even use ACL or FLDIGI but all with a keyboard. I've read WKUSB and the other references for connecting to the aforementioned programs but I believe they're all describing the setup as if I was sitting in front of the rig. I know I can't be the only one in the world wanting to do this whether I'm on the same network or halfway around the globe that owns an ANAN and runs Thetis with the desire to inject a winkeyer in the mix. Oh and I've also tried WKremote but I'm trying to reduce the latency. So, my question to Steve and the rest of the group... Can winkeyer be set up to work with Thetis directly or even MRP40 in a remote type setup? 73 John

I am connected to the winkey BUT no read or write options? How do I make it work? I am on W11 and it says I am on WK F/W ver 30.10 N8EM

Hello everyone! Im having an issue with my WKmini where every time I try to send a dah, it sends a "K." Very confused as to why im having this issue, never had it before, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Can I run the K19-EXT on 4.5 volts (3xAA batteries) bypassing the regulator VR1? Otherwise I'd need to go with an external connection which adds another wire / connection or with a 9 V battery which has limited capacity. I'm replacing a very old CMOS Super Keyer III v.2 that has become intermittent with a K-19-EXT. It ran on 3xAA that lasted forever. Thanks for your input.... 73 Den W2DEN

I have WKRemote on my remote (server) PC talking to WKRemote on my local (client) PC. I see 'Connected to Server' on the remote PC and 'connected to client' on the server PC (the one connected to the radio). If I click 'Tune' on the remote PC, the radio sends a continuous carrier. All seems well. However, when I type anything into the Remote PC, nothing happens to the radio. I am using a YCCC SO2R box that identifies as a winkey v10 and WKRemote seems content with that. I have no remote Winkey, I am trying to send CW using the remote (client) keyboard. I have programmed M1 on the remote (client) version of WKRemote to be 'TEST'. If I click M1 on the remote PC, nothing happens to the radio. I'm a bit stumped now. WKRemote 1.5 at both ends. Windows 10 at both ends. What should I try next? John G4DRS

I'm having a problem with my WinKeyer USB after several years of trouble free operation. It stopped sending characters while using my paddles. I changed the internal batteries thinking that might be the problem. I checked the old batteries after the change out but they turned out to be okay. I checked the WinKeyer with the new batteries and it sends CW okay with the paddles,, but now if I press the red button on top of the WinKeyer it causes the 3 black buttons on top to stop working. If I continue pushing the black buttons several times the WinKeyer starts sending a lot of miscellaneous characters after a bit of delay. It sends out a lot of Z's with a "W" mixed in. After several seconds of these random characters the sending stops. At this point the WinKeyer behaves normally unless I press the red button again. Any ideas? Ron, W4UT

My WKmini Rev B suffered a component failure. While WK Demo shows the keyer as working it will only send code from output port 2 and not output port 1. Have tried the WKMini keyer at another person's station with a functional unit running Windows 10, for N1MM, Writelog and Logic general logging software. We tried his cables and could not get the keyer to send at all with the logging software. While it will send and key with WK Tools using Output port 2 to a radio, Output port 1 only lights the LED on the side of the case and will not actually cause the radio to send CW with WKTools or to logging software. Quite certain it is not a cable issue, have reloaded firmware and logging software. Have spent a good part of 3 days trying to get it working but it just seems to have fail. Must be an internal component, but cannot tell which. Has anyone experienced a similar failure? Can anyone tell which component would be the cause and Is there any recourse for this in terms of repair/parts? Thanks Sam VE5SF

My config may be unique, but I wanted to post this for reference for others. N1MM+ --> WKmini --> KX3 Paddle 2 Input (Front) [via Pro Audio Engineering KX Keyport (or W6IPA KX Buddy Key)] Using shielded stereo cables. (This is why the extra config is likely needed.) I followed the instructions for the WKmini (ver. 1.3). Unit tested fine with WK3Demo 4.2. Would not send Morse code correctly with N1MM+ (Had solid tone) Solution Additional Setup for K1EL WKmini in N1MM+ In N1MM+: Config --> Configure Ports, Mode Control, Winkey, etc... --> Winkey Set Winkey Pin5 Function to 'None'. Click OK to close Window. Reasoning: Pin 5 default setup in N1MM+ is 'PTT'. If you build a new cable according to the wiring diagram in the WKmini instructions, keying the KX3 through the front input will work without this change, as the PTT wiring is not carried to the radio. If you are like me, and bought a factory-made cable for the slim body on the 3.5mm stereo cable, that PTT line is lurking and waiting to cause problems. PTT asserts by default N1MM+ settings for Winkey for the duration of the sent CW by default. the radio sees the constant high from the PTT line on the other input, (even though the setting in the KX3 menu for CW KEY2 is 'HAnd') and sends constant CW tone. Setting Pin 5 Function to 'None' stops the constant CW keying and allows N1MM+ and the WKmini to work as expected. Tim Raymer 73 de N0UI <ka0ouv@...>

Hi all, I’m a new CW user. (~5wpm at LCWo) I’d like a setup that allows me to transmit morse using either my pc keyboard (with something like CWtype) or my paddle (a CW Morse single paddle). My radio is a Xiegu X6100, which only accepts CW input via its key port (not its usb port). Can anyone confirm that the WKmini would enable sending CW via keyboard or paddle to this radio’s key port? Assuming the answer is yes, any suggestions for PC software and cabling that's simple to setup and easy of use? Minimal feature-set is fine. I am not interested in auto logging, contesting, etc. I just want to TX via keyboard or paddle. Thanks in advance for any help! 73, Tony Webster, KE1TLG

Is anyone using the WKMini and KH1? Getting them working together was as easy as you'd expect, but the CW sounds "short" on the radio, although I need to listen to it on air. But if anyone has a config file for the WKMini to drive the KH1 that will just save me a little time. Thanks in advance. 73/77 Ciemon --- Ciemon Dunville - G?TRT Warminster, Wiltshire. UK

I have been having an intermitent issue for some time while using my Winkeyer USB on my MAC Mini using MacLoggerDX keying software. The keyer will either just start to send random dits or dahs or reset while I am transmitting. ( This not an RF issue it happens with no power out ) What is really strange this does not occur when using MAC Winkeyer or SkookumMorse instead of the keying SW in MLDX. I have reviewed the Users Group for MacLoggerDX and not found any instances similar to this. I have noticed while testing the Keyer that sometimes it seems a little slow to read and write the Eprom with WinKeyer Tools using both my primary Mac and with an older Windows 10 computer. I have had the Winkeyer for some time and have the latest firmware (DIP Version 31.02 installed. I idid revert to the original firmware to see if that made a difference but it did not. It seems like the USB might be failing but why would that happen with MLDX and not MAC Winkeyer SW? Of course I am sure there are differences how MLDX communicates with the keyer as compared to the others SW. Any thoughts would be appreciated, Chris NJ5N

I hooked my Winkeyer up to the radio and the paddle was reversed. Not surwe how that happened but thought I would open the WK2MGR app and fix it. I read the setting and saw that SWAP was checked and unchecked it. Clicked the Box to Write the file and it said that was successful. I can read the file and the SWAP is now unchecked. I can click the Test WK button and it says it is OK. However, there is no output, no sidetone, no R when you plug in the USB cable, no R if you try to reset it, etc. Surely there is some way to bring a Winkeyer back to life that has been working fine for years until I connected it to the App? Would appreciate any help I can get. Stan, ZF9CW