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It has been brought to my attention that I am not immortal. So I'm looking for a moderator or two for the group. Because it sucks when a group ends because the only listowner goes away in some manner. Looking for suggestions, nominations, volunteers, input. Please discuss this here on the list, with the hashtag #newmoderators so that everyone can see who is volunteering or nominating whom. #newmoderators -- Steven Greenfield AE7HD

Hello folks ^^) Will be happy too to help there. I truly hate the mailling-lists disapearence, especially when I'm subscribed to... and the killing of yahoogroups lately made me mad enough ;) Jeff ^^)

I was a moderator on the old mini-mill list on Yahoo, as well as the HF micro mill list. I can help, but I'm not immortal either (nor would I admit it, were I so). I'm expecting to be available for at least the next decade, if not more, unless overruled by a higher authority. Harvey On 10/4/2021 4:48 PM, Steven Greenfield AE7HD via groups.io wrote: It has been brought to my attention that I am not immortal. So I'm looking for a moderator or two for the group. Because it sucks when a group ends because the only listowner goes away in some manner. Looking for suggestions, nominations, volunteers, input. Please discuss this here on the list, with the hashtag #newmoderators so that everyone can see who is volunteering or nominating whom. #newmoderators -- Steven Greenfield AE7HD

I'm trying to get rolling on the photoresist method. I have a Samsung B&W laser printer which I have used for the toner transfer method and hoped to use to print my transparencies for the UV/photoresist method. Looking at transparency film for laser printers, I'm seeing advice to operate the printer at lower temperature and/or set it up for printing transparencies. My printer does not have these options. Does that mean I'll likely have trouble with my prints to transparencies? Would I be better off trying to use an inkjet printer and the appropriate transparencies for that type of printer? Thanks, Nick, WA5BDU

Anybody have any recommendations on a good flux pen? Maybe refillable? I have all kinds of flux but no flux pen. Figured I would add one or two to my kit. And best flux type for soldering with lead solder and ENIG pcbs? Thanks, Dave

When I was working (20 years ago !) I was in the LEXMARK compagny about difference with transparent for laser and inkjet printers there is a BIG difference laser has a HOT ROLL heater around 180° to fix the toner on the paper inkjet paper has "micro small" holes to capture ink but there is NO heater roll so if you use laser transparency on a inkjet printer, ink will not be fixed and if you use inkjet transparency paper on a laser printer, the risk if you have the paper that stuck around the heater roll, printer can be damaged so take care hope my poor english is enough clear ! francois F1CHF -------Message original------- De : casy_ch@... Date : 11/04/2021 18:08:23 A : [email protected] Sujet : Re: [homebrewpcbs] Transparency film for laser printer In the past I have only used Canon or Brother Inkjet Printers. Even with special transparencies for laser printers, I have never got good results while there was no problem with Inkjet Printers. 73 de Jean-Claude, HB3YDH Am 11.04.2021 um 17:48 schrieb Leon via groups.io: I used to get excellent results with an HP inkjet printer. I don't bother now and get my PCBs made in China. Leon On 10 Apr 2021 21:43, Nick Kennedy <kennnick@...> wrote: I'm trying to get rolling on the photoresist method. I have a Samsung B&W laser printer which I have used for the toner transfer method and hoped to use to print my transparencies for the UV/photoresist method. Looking at transparency film for laser printers, I'm seeing advice to operate the printer at lower temperature and/or set it up for printing transparencies. My printer does not have these options. Does that mean I'll likely have trouble with my prints to transparencies? Would I be better off trying to use an inkjet printer and the appropriate transparencies for that type of printer? Thanks, Nick, WA5BDU Diese E-Mail wurde von Avast Antivirus-Software auf Viren geprüft. www.avast.com

Hello, Thanks to all who provided suggestions on how to eliminate or get rid of air bubbles between the photo resist and PCB. Already from the initial look at some of the suggestions I'm finding additional information of how I can improve my application of using the photo resist technique to make printed circuit boards. Look forward to reviewing all of the suggested material. Again, thanks for all the good suggestions and sharing your experience. V/R, Mike, K4GMH -- Mike, K4GMH

I spent an extremely UNrewarding 3 months learning EAGLE and KiCAD and got tripped up by some glitches. If PCBCAD51 proves to me to be without those glitches then I would buy it.

Hi all, I've been making my own PCBs for many years using the old Protel freeware Easytrax and/or Autotrax running under DOSBox. My versions don't have the Gerber drivers which I have never needed.They have served me well but now a situation has come up where I need to make several copies of one of my old designs. I could do it myself but it would be much easier to have the boards made commercially. They are simple single sided with no fancy features. Does anyone know of a PCB manufacturer who can work with the old PCB files? Or if not, is there any software that converts Easytrax or Autotrax .pcb files to a more modern format? I'm in Melbourne, Australia. Thanks, Morris

Hello, Anyone that needs to convert PCB or 274-D to 274-X Gerbers and also merge drill files please head on over to my SprintLayout group and join up. [email protected] There in the files section you will find a step by step document that will take you through the process, some sample files from Protel products for testing, and a software tool needed to do the conversion. There is a section near the end of the document that will guide you through the process of importing the converted files into SprintLayout to make a editable PCB file as well. This is a bonus feature of the conversion process. It works really well. Anyone who is using these older DOS tools will immediately see the advantage of moving to newer very low cost tools that will run in Windows or Linux. You can also easily use the Sprint program to do Toner Transfer and even CNC routed PCB's. I hope that you find the document and the conversion utility useful as many hours have gone into it. There is a link in the document for the utility author and his web site, as well as a copy of the utility (V4.2) in the files section in the SprintLayout Group. If you find the software tool to be useful to you, please send an email to Les and thank him for so graciously updating the program adding features to make the 274-X file import almost effortless for SprintLayout. There is a email address in the document for the author and also for his web site. P.S. The tool was recently modified to be able to handle ASCII TangoPCB Series II DOS files as well. This feature is new and has been tested with a few layout so if you use it and find anything that needs attention please contact the utility author. The usual disclaimer: I do not have any financial or other interest in the company that wrote the SprintLayout program. I am just a very satisfied customer who has used the amazingly powerful PCB layout program for over 10 years and I have made nearly 1000 PCB designs from it during that time. Great program, easy to learn and use, about the cost of dinner for six at McDonalds, permanent license, no weird keys or dongles, excellent support (very rarely needed) and amazing resolution and graphics. Probably the most bug free PCB CAD program I have ever used and I have probably tried them all! I hope that the conversion process helps you make your own boards! All the best, Sam Reaves Moderator SprintLayout Group on 开云体育 LeCroyOwnersGroup on 开云体育 SencoreOwnersGroup on 开云体育

Does anyone have a set of 274-D files of the demo.pcb from AutoTrax DOS? I need a set for tests and no longer have a DOS system that can generate them. Thank you, Sam W3OHM

A very informative lecture. https://youtu.be/ySuUZEjARPY Steve Greenfield AE7HD http://www.linkedin.com/in/stevenjgreenfield -- Steven Greenfield AE7HD

Can someone help me understand how to use EasyEda? A friend found a module on there that I have been looking for. I can load it into EasyEda. I have both the online version and a stand alone version. The standalone version asks for a storage location but appears to ignore it and save to cloud server. I want to generate gerbers for the module that I assume is a public module (otherwise I could not have found it and loaded it) but I can't figure out how to "load it into pcb" as support told me to do. They show options I do not have. My assumption is that I have to have the project files which I do not have. The pc board loads into the editor but I have few usable options. I can save it as PDF, PNG, JSON, and a couple other formats but none are of any use for get it into a project (for any tool) or exporting gerbers for it. How do I get the project and files? Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thank you. Jim Pruitt

/g/electronics101/topics -- Steven Greenfield AE7HD

I was thinking...my next pcb will be simple but will be all SMT components for my first time. I was curious if it is ok to put one circuit on one side of the 2 sided boards, and another on the other side? They would be 2 simple, yet different circuits. Is that something that has been done before? Is that kosher with the pcb makers that will make the board? Or is that cheating? In the end it would be a choice of what side to use by me and only one side would ever be used. Thanks, Dave

"The registration holes need to be exact, which is why I made an upside down drill press, which is far more accurate (no parallax)." I used a different technique to get the same benefit. FRP boards in the thickness we use are somewhat transparent, you can see the drill bit from the other side right down to the point of contact, thus no parallax, same as above. To use a normal, bench mount drill press, I purchased a single-board camera with NTSC output that I then fed into a small TV set. I built a small holder for the camera (about 1 inch cubed) plus a 45 degree angle mirror so that the debris from the drilling did not fall on the camera and cover the lens. Looking up through the hole in the center of the drill press table, I was able to position the board with one hand and lower the drill with the other. Gravity works in the same direction as drill force, so it was easy to position the board while it was resting on the table and still provide firm support against the drilling. It worked ell enough for a cheap, out-of-alignment harbor freight drill press to make accurate holes. My approach does require the extra purchase of a $40 or less mini board camera but eliminates the problem of keeping the board from falling down when not drilling or of keep the board in place against the force of drilling. -- KINDNESS is most VALUABLE when it is GIVEN AWAY for FREE

I bought some USB cables and noticed the RoHS sticker on them and never really read much about the standard so I have a few questions. It states something about 0.1% lead is allowed but in the case of cables, does that take in the whole weight of the cable?? Or on a circuit board, how is the math actually based for the allowable limit of lead in the solder. And last but not least, I have never ever used no lead solder. Is is a good idea to buy some for future reference in case of reworking something that followed the standard? And if yes, are all no lead solders the same or do the have choices using differing amounts of the ingredients to make it? Thanks Dave

Ok, just a followup on my looking for physically large sized SMT resistors. I researched yet again and realize that the physical size is based on the max watt rating, which I already knew (but probably forgot). And for my first attempts of making SMT boards I want large sized components for ease or working with them. So using a 0.120 inch length resistor (3/4 watt) where I only need a 1/4 watt resistor is the only way to do it. So now that I looked at ebay yet again I see I can get what I need at least in most of the sizes I desire for now. Dave

Does anyone on the list have access to Calcium Hypophosphite? This stuff is impossible to find in the US, being a "controlled substance". For crying out loud. I really can't see the point considering the volumes we are talking about! Alternatively, do any of you chemistry majors out there know of a substitute formula using more easily available chemicals?