"The registration holes need to be exact, which is why I made an upside
down drill press, which is far more accurate (no parallax)."
I used a different technique to get the same benefit. FRP boards in the thickness we use are somewhat transparent, you can see the drill bit from the other side right down to the point of contact, thus no parallax, same as above. To use a normal, bench mount drill press, I purchased a single-board camera with NTSC output that I then fed into a small TV set. I built a small holder for the camera (about 1 inch cubed) plus a 45 degree angle mirror so that the debris from the drilling did not fall on the camera and cover the lens. Looking up through the hole in the center of the drill press table, I was able to position the board with one hand and lower the drill with the other. Gravity works in the same direction as drill force, so it was easy to position the board while it was resting on the table and still provide firm support against the drilling. It worked ell enough for a cheap, out-of-alignment harbor freight drill press to make accurate holes. My approach does require the extra purchase of a $40 or less mini board camera but eliminates the problem of keeping the board from falling down when not drilling or of keep the board in place against the force of drilling.
--
?????????????? KINDNESS
is
most VALUABLE when
it is GIVEN
AWAY for
?????????????????? FREE
|
We're talking variations on a theme.?
Mine seems to be more elaborate, but then again, I could throw
stuff at it.
/g/homebrewpcbs/album?id=86511
Harvey
On 11/7/2020 11:19 PM, Mike wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
"The
registration holes need to be exact, which is why I made an
upside down drill press, which is far more accurate (no
parallax)."
I used a
different technique to get the same benefit. FRP boards in the
thickness we use are somewhat transparent, you can see the
drill bit from the other side right down to the point of
contact, thus no parallax, same as above. To use a normal,
bench mount drill press, I purchased a single-board camera
with NTSC output that I then fed into a small TV set. I built
a small holder for the camera (about 1 inch cubed) plus a 45
degree angle mirror so that the debris from the drilling did
not fall on the camera and cover the lens. Looking up through
the hole in the center of the drill press table, I was able to
position the board with one hand and lower the drill with the
other. Gravity works in the same direction as drill force, so
it was easy to position the board while it was resting on the
table and still provide firm support against the drilling. It
worked ell enough for a cheap, out-of-alignment harbor freight
drill press to make accurate holes. My approach does require
the extra purchase of a $40 or less mini board camera but
eliminates the problem of keeping the board from falling down
when not drilling or of keep the board in place against the
force of drilling.
--
??????????????
KINDNESS
is
most VALUABLE
when
it is GIVEN
AWAY for
?????????????????? FREE
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Harvey White Sent: Saturday, November 7, 2020 23:44 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [homebrewpcbs] Drill precision holes without CNC, was RoHS question ? We're talking variations on a theme.? Mine seems to be more elaborate, but then again, I could throw stuff at it. /g/homebrewpcbs/album?id=86511 Harvey ? On 11/7/2020 11:19 PM, Mike wrote: "The registration holes need to be exact, which is why I made an upside down drill press, which is far more accurate (no parallax)." I used a different technique to get the same benefit. FRP boards in the thickness we use are somewhat transparent, you can see the drill bit from the other side right down to the point of contact, thus no parallax, same as above. To use a normal, bench mount drill press, I purchased a single-board camera with NTSC output that I then fed into a small TV set. I built a small holder for the camera (about 1 inch cubed) plus a 45 degree angle mirror so that the debris from the drilling did not fall on the camera and cover the lens. Looking up through the hole in the center of the drill press table, I was able to position the board with one hand and lower the drill with the other. Gravity works in the same direction as drill force, so it was easy to position the board while it was resting on the table and still provide firm support against the drilling. It worked ell enough for a cheap, out-of-alignment harbor freight drill press to make accurate holes. My approach does require the extra purchase of a $40 or less mini board camera but eliminates the problem of keeping the board from falling down when not drilling or of keep the board in place against the force of drilling. --
?????????????? KINDNESS is most VALUABLE when it is GIVEN AWAY for ?????????????????? FREE
|
Thanks.? Linear rail platform, linear stepper, stopping points
are settable (in use).? Worked well until I started making PC
boards that were too complicated to produce here.
Harvey
On 11/8/2020 12:04 AM, Bertho wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Nice setup!
?
?
?
We're talking variations on a theme.?
Mine seems to be more elaborate, but then again, I could
throw stuff at it.
/g/homebrewpcbs/album?id=86511
Harvey
?
On 11/7/2020 11:19 PM, Mike wrote:
"The
registration holes need to be exact, which is why I
made an upside down drill press, which is far more
accurate (no parallax)."
I
used a different technique to get the same benefit.
FRP boards in the thickness we use are somewhat
transparent, you can see the drill bit from the other
side right down to the point of contact, thus no
parallax, same as above. To use a normal, bench mount
drill press, I purchased a single-board camera with
NTSC output that I then fed into a small TV set. I
built a small holder for the camera (about 1 inch
cubed) plus a 45 degree angle mirror so that the
debris from the drilling did not fall on the camera
and cover the lens. Looking up through the hole in the
center of the drill press table, I was able to
position the board with one hand and lower the drill
with the other. Gravity works in the same direction as
drill force, so it was easy to position the board
while it was resting on the table and still provide
firm support against the drilling. It worked ell
enough for a cheap, out-of-alignment harbor freight
drill press to make accurate holes. My approach does
require the extra purchase of a $40 or less mini board
camera but eliminates the problem of keeping the board
from falling down when not drilling or of keep the
board in place against the force of drilling.
--
??????????????
KINDNESS
is
most VALUABLE
when it is GIVEN AWAY for
??????????????????
FREE
|
That sounds very familiar! Bertho ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Harvey White Sent: Sunday, November 8, 2020 10:54 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [homebrewpcbs] Drill precision holes without CNC, was RoHS question ? Thanks.? Linear rail platform, linear stepper, stopping points are settable (in use).? Worked well until I started making PC boards that were too complicated to produce here. Harvey ? On 11/8/2020 12:04 AM, Bertho wrote: Nice setup! ? ? ? We're talking variations on a theme.? Mine seems to be more elaborate, but then again, I could throw stuff at it. /g/homebrewpcbs/album?id=86511 Harvey ? On 11/7/2020 11:19 PM, Mike wrote: "The registration holes need to be exact, which is why I made an upside down drill press, which is far more accurate (no parallax)." I used a different technique to get the same benefit. FRP boards in the thickness we use are somewhat transparent, you can see the drill bit from the other side right down to the point of contact, thus no parallax, same as above. To use a normal, bench mount drill press, I purchased a single-board camera with NTSC output that I then fed into a small TV set. I built a small holder for the camera (about 1 inch cubed) plus a 45 degree angle mirror so that the debris from the drilling did not fall on the camera and cover the lens. Looking up through the hole in the center of the drill press table, I was able to position the board with one hand and lower the drill with the other. Gravity works in the same direction as drill force, so it was easy to position the board while it was resting on the table and still provide firm support against the drilling. It worked ell enough for a cheap, out-of-alignment harbor freight drill press to make accurate holes. My approach does require the extra purchase of a $40 or less mini board camera but eliminates the problem of keeping the board from falling down when not drilling or of keep the board in place against the force of drilling. --
?????????????? KINDNESS is most VALUABLE when it is GIVEN AWAY for ?????????????????? FREE
|
That, and I couldn't do plated through holes (the chemistry
seemed excessive).? SInce I was doing 100 pin TQFP (0.5mm
spacing), depending on whether or not I got the toner transfer
exactly right (and I swear it was environmental factors)....? I
got good boards or bad ones.? I did boards in production lots, and
of course, with toner transfer, you do one at a time.? So I did a
board, cleaned it up (before etching), cleaned it up (after
etching), drilled the registration holes, epoxied it, then drilled
it and hoped that the holes matched.? (the upside down drill press
was needed....).? Once that was done, stitched the board top and
bottom together, then built it, and hoped that there were no
breaks in the tracks I hadn't found.?
Once I started producing boards that had a higher parts density
(and I did 10/10 boards), I just couldn't do it myself.? It was
time to get the boards made elsewhere.?
Harvey
On 11/8/2020 7:49 PM, Bertho wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That sounds very familiar!
Bertho
?
?
Thanks.? Linear rail platform, linear stepper, stopping
points are settable (in use).? Worked well until I started
making PC boards that were too complicated to produce here.
Harvey
?
On 11/8/2020 12:04 AM, Bertho wrote:
Nice setup!
?
?
?
We're talking variations on a theme.?
Mine seems to be more elaborate, but then again, I could
throw stuff at it.
/g/homebrewpcbs/album?id=86511
Harvey
?
On 11/7/2020 11:19 PM, Mike wrote:
"The
registration holes need to be exact, which is why I
made an upside down drill press, which is far more
accurate (no parallax)."
I
used a different technique to get the same benefit.
FRP boards in the thickness we use are somewhat
transparent, you can see the drill bit from the
other side right down to the point of contact, thus
no parallax, same as above. To use a normal, bench
mount drill press, I purchased a single-board camera
with NTSC output that I then fed into a small TV
set. I built a small holder for the camera (about 1
inch cubed) plus a 45 degree angle mirror so that
the debris from the drilling did not fall on the
camera and cover the lens. Looking up through the
hole in the center of the drill press table, I was
able to position the board with one hand and lower
the drill with the other. Gravity works in the same
direction as drill force, so it was easy to position
the board while it was resting on the table and
still provide firm support against the drilling. It
worked ell enough for a cheap, out-of-alignment
harbor freight drill press to make accurate holes.
My approach does require the extra purchase of a $40
or less mini board camera but eliminates the problem
of keeping the board from falling down when not
drilling or of keep the board in place against the
force of drilling.
--
??????????????
KINDNESS
is
most VALUABLE
when it is GIVEN AWAY for
??????????????????
FREE
|
Yes, I see from the photos that they are in principle much the same. A spinning drill bit that can be raised and lowered, a place slide the pcb around in any direction to reach each of the holes to be drilled, and a camera on the opposite side to have a consistent viewing angle. You are using a roto-tool to get higher rpm for the drill bit, a single axes slide with a stepper motor to advance and pull back the drill and a much fancier camera than I have. Plus yours, as you have said, has the drill upside down so that you see the board the same way as the camera does. Do you have crosshairs taped to the display screen? I needed them on mine because the axis of rotation of the drill bit is not parallel to the vertical axis.
Yours does look very substantial. Mine can still be used as a regular drill press between circuit boards without any disassembly and reassembly. I wish I could post pictures of mine, but it is still locked up in a shipping container along with the rest of my workshop waiting for the new workshop to be finished. I added my approach just to provide people with an alternative so that they can choose which suits them best.
--
?????????????? KINDNESS
is
most VALUABLE when
it is GIVEN
AWAY for
?????????????????? FREE
|
I did put a transparency over the screen, laser printed one.? I
have the plans for a video crosshair generator in the works, which
would be much better.? The camera is an old security camera which
runs off 12VDC or 24VAC.? The whole thing runs off 12VDC, so
that's why I got the camera that I did.? Hamfest stuff a while
back.?
I used the rototool (Proxxon) because it's got a higher RPM, much
better bearings, and a much better chuck than the dremel.? I did
have a dremel on a stand, but the parallax was horrible.? The
reason for making this as is?? I wanted a fixed setup that could
be left in one piece.? The stand was from an old (and no, I didn't
buy anything but the stand, all there was) Pace desoldering
system.? I bought a second one and made an adaptor for the
existing hot air desoldering system I have.? Then again, the
metcal tips work even better with less trauma to the chip.
You can argue that mine is a bit of overkill, but then again, why
not?
Harvey
On 11/9/2020 1:10 AM, Mike wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Yes, I see
from the photos that they are in principle much the same. A
spinning drill bit that can be raised and lowered, a place
slide the pcb around in any direction to reach each of the
holes to be drilled, and a camera on the opposite side to have
a consistent viewing angle. You are using a roto-tool to get
higher rpm for the drill bit, a single axes slide with a
stepper motor to advance and pull back the drill and a much
fancier camera than I have. Plus yours, as you have said, has
the drill upside down so that you see the board the same way
as the camera does. Do you have crosshairs taped to the
display screen? I needed them on mine because the axis of
rotation of the drill bit is not parallel to the vertical
axis.
Yours does
look very substantial. Mine can still be used as a regular
drill press between circuit boards without any disassembly and
reassembly. I wish I could post pictures of mine, but it is
still locked up in a shipping container along with the rest of
my workshop waiting for the new workshop to be finished. I
added my approach just to provide people with an alternative
so that they can choose which suits them best.
--
??????????????
KINDNESS
is
most VALUABLE
when
it is GIVEN
AWAY for
?????????????????? FREE
|
I used a mini air die grinder 1/8” collets perfect for PCB carbide bits and the right RPM 56,000. Only $27 at Harbor Freight. I bought mine about 30 years ago. ? Bertho ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Harvey White Sent: Monday, November 9, 2020 14:33 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [homebrewpcbs] Drill precision holes without CNC, was RoHS question ? I did put a transparency over the screen, laser printed one.? I have the plans for a video crosshair generator in the works, which would be much better.? The camera is an old security camera which runs off 12VDC or 24VAC.? The whole thing runs off 12VDC, so that's why I got the camera that I did.? Hamfest stuff a while back.? I used the rototool (Proxxon) because it's got a higher RPM, much better bearings, and a much better chuck than the dremel.? I did have a dremel on a stand, but the parallax was horrible.? The reason for making this as is?? I wanted a fixed setup that could be left in one piece.? The stand was from an old (and no, I didn't buy anything but the stand, all there was) Pace desoldering system.? I bought a second one and made an adaptor for the existing hot air desoldering system I have.? Then again, the metcal tips work even better with less trauma to the chip. You can argue that mine is a bit of overkill, but then again, why not? Harvey ? On 11/9/2020 1:10 AM, Mike wrote: Yes, I see from the photos that they are in principle much the same. A spinning drill bit that can be raised and lowered, a place slide the pcb around in any direction to reach each of the holes to be drilled, and a camera on the opposite side to have a consistent viewing angle. You are using a roto-tool to get higher rpm for the drill bit, a single axes slide with a stepper motor to advance and pull back the drill and a much fancier camera than I have. Plus yours, as you have said, has the drill upside down so that you see the board the same way as the camera does. Do you have crosshairs taped to the display screen? I needed them on mine because the axis of rotation of the drill bit is not parallel to the vertical axis. Yours does look very substantial. Mine can still be used as a regular drill press between circuit boards without any disassembly and reassembly. I wish I could post pictures of mine, but it is still locked up in a shipping container along with the rest of my workshop waiting for the new workshop to be finished. I added my approach just to provide people with an alternative so that they can choose which suits them best.
--
?????????????? KINDNESS is most VALUABLE when it is GIVEN AWAY for ?????????????????? FREE
|
A little late, but this is my solution to accurate pcb drilling
<
>
Mark
At 11:19 PM 11/7/2020, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
"The registration holes
need to be exact, which is why I made an upside down drill press, which
is far more accurate (no parallax)."
I used a different technique to get the same benefit. FRP boards in the
thickness we use are somewhat transparent, you can see the drill bit from
the other side right down to the point of contact, thus no parallax, same
as above. To use a normal, bench mount drill press, I purchased a
single-board camera with NTSC output that I then fed into a small TV set.
I built a small holder for the camera (about 1 inch cubed) plus a 45
degree angle mirror so that the debris from the drilling did not fall on
the camera and cover the lens. Looking up through the hole in the center
of the drill press table, I was able to position the board with one hand
and lower the drill with the other. Gravity works in the same direction
as drill force, so it was easy to position the board while it was resting
on the table and still provide firm support against the drilling. It
worked ell enough for a cheap, out-of-alignment harbor freight drill
press to make accurate holes. My approach does require the extra purchase
of a $40 or less mini board camera but eliminates the problem of keeping
the board from falling down when not drilling or of keep the board in
place against the force of drilling.
--
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ??
KINDNESS
is most VALUABLE when it is GIVEN
AWAY for
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?? FREE
|
|