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HP LJ2100 1200 DPI Driver?
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Hello All, Nice group.. For years I've been using the PCBfx foil product for making homebrew SMD PCBs. My printer, an HP LJ2100 supports 1200DPI prints. It is an excellent reliable PCB printer. However, when McNazi$oft forced everyone to upgrade from WinXP, HP chose to obsolete all the old printers by providing the so-called "Universal Driver" which does not support LJ2100 1200 DPI drivers for Vista (yech), Win7 (marginally ok), Win1010 (yech), etc? Aside from having to keep an old PC running XP around, does anyone know of a driver that supports the LJ2100 1200DPI printing mode? Thanks in advance.. -- SETV - Autonomous Instrumentation Platforms for the Detection & Measurement of Suspected ET Objects, sans cameras
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[OT} Anyone know of a group where I may get 3d printer advice ??
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Sorry about the OT post - but given the use of CNC to engrave PCBs it seemed the closest match of the groups I have joined. I am looking for advice on buying a 3D printer - I am on a limited budget. If you are aware of a group where they discuss such things, please let me know. TIA Dave
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I have a new pcb bought in china that is missing a trace. It goes from a resistor leg to a transistor leg. Question is there a repair that would actually work for this board. It is a quality tone control board. Would it be bes to just scrap the board as a auto router failed me in pointing out a air wire on EDA site.
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New member.
I have been in electronics and pcb design for 40 years. Things have changed a lot over the years. I remember buying EasyPC in around 1990 and quickly became frustrated with lack of functions and bugs. So I wrote my own and still selling it now. I wont give the name as I don't want to spam the group. I have designed around 300 pcb's in my time. I used to make my own pcb's but the Chinese can make them for peanuts now so I mostly get mine done in China. Current project is a USB PC oscilloscope that runs at 12.5 mega samples per second. The pcb is partly SMD so simply far too fine for a home made pcb. I have got the manufacturer to solder the fine scale SMD parts on for me.
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Inkjet PCB printing patentable? Everything old is new again
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Someone says they are patenting the process of printing graphics onto PCBs. Not for resist, but specifically graphics. https://www.littlebird.com.au/blogs/news/colourful-printed-circuit-boards I can't see what is new about this. You have been able to buy UV ink printers that can print on just about any substrate, porous or nonporous, for decades. Obviously, people have been printing onto PCBs for etch resist and silkscreen marking for at least a decade. http://www.pabr.org/pcbprt/pcbprt.en.html I've posted on the Littlebird page, but the comment must be approved. So I don't expect it to appear. -- Steven Greenfield AE7HD
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Off-topic chemical reaction.
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Hello everyone, I hope you could help me with this I mixed hydrogen peroxide (volume 250) with Manganese dioxide in a bottle Is it safe the oxygen that is released through the bottle. ( like doing it indoors) The manganese dioxide was obtained from AA battery ( with some white impurities) Thanks
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I need to cut out an area of the top of a pc board enclosure (enclosure made using double sided pc board material). The cutout is for a 16x2 LCD display. Can someone tell me how to do that and keep the lines straight? I used a coping saw to do the first one but needless to say, the cutout did not stay straight and with filing I ended up with part of the cutout too big. I tried just using a razor knife and cutting the lines but could not get the board to break on those lines. I have in the past been told to use a Dremel tool but I have not found a bit for the Dremel and have not seen the little 1" diameter saw blades for a while, not that I would trust one to go straight for me anyway. There has to be a reliable and neat way to make these cuts. Does anyone know how to do this? Thank you. Jim
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Solder paste storage
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Hello all, I have this tube of solder paste acquired from amazon. It came with five 19-gauge dispensing tips. I have used some of the paste today, dispensing it with one of the included tips. I will store the tube (in a refrigerator) for a few days or week or whatever until I need it again. For storage, should I remove the dispensing tip and replace it with the plug that was originally on the tube? Or is it OK to store it with the dispensing tip affixed to the tube? Thanks. Steve
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SMD Led
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In the clipboard file are three pics of a SMD led project. Question is the green triangle pointing at K=Anode so as to buy this led in future from orient? I am new to surface mount and need this clarified.
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New PCB board/Yellow Wire
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Yellow Wire modification to boards, especially very complex multi-layer boards is not uncommon in the military and space fabrication. If there was a design error in the brass board, subtle change going from brass board to flight boards, parts changes, failure in environmental, vibration, RF leakage or sensitivity, functional testing, and of course Customer Requirements changes it was customary to use the already tested and approved yellow wire changes approach. That allowed incremental re-testing instead brand new board design and layout (new traces probably don't quite fit the current design), fabricate another short run (separate test from deliverable), and began testing again from the ground up. Of course for contracts that would have more than just one or two deliverable you would eventually do the redesign and retesting to get a production board with the fewest possible re-work spots. But yes Yellow Wire changes, including 'staking' (bonding the wires i place), cutting pins flush with the board and then bending them upright for yellow wires to disconnect from internal traces, dead bugs (chips glued back to back onto existing chips with pins sticking out) is a well known and accepted practice. -- "Creativity is intelligence having fun." — Albert Einstein
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PCB milling - getting started (light bulb moment)
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I did discover one significant issue causing problems with my initial milling attempts. Drum role..... :-P What I thought was a end mill was in fact, a ....... drill. Correct size, wrong bit. Sigh. (As I slap myself.) I do have the correct carbide end mills, so I may give this another try using the *correct* bit this time. I expect the "skating" should be significantly reduced if not eliminated. With a red face... - Mark
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I did a bunch of searching but didn't really seen anything appropriate. So here goes ... After building electronic "stuff" for a long time (I started out using vacuum tubes / valves :-), I wanted to try my hand at making my own PCBs. After looking around the Internet, it seemed as though milling PCBs was a real possibility. So I invested in one of the many import CNC mills. In my case, it was one of the 3018 / Woodpecker based mills. It went together fine, and seems to be reasonably stable and accurate for a couple of my first attempts. I did add limit switches and a Z-axis probe. But attempting to mill a PCB (2.5 x 5 inches / 65mm x 130mm) of my own design... I have spent a lot of time over the past month without any real success. The first problem I am having is copper tear-out milling the traces. I expect this is probably a feed rate that is too high or dull milling bits. I have tried both 30 degree "V" bits as well as 0.7mm end mills. The end mills gave the cleanest cut. The second problem is insufficient depth of cut when milling. I've tried clamping the PCB stock, double sided tape for the stock, and auto leveling (OpenCNCPilot) software. Using OpenCNCPilot to auto level and mill the PCB stock with a "V" bit was the most successful, but I haven't managed to generate a "good" PCB. I expect a vacuum table would be best, but where do I stop "improving"? All over the Internet I see lots of success stories, but none of them really go into detail about the setup (bit type, depth of cut, feed rate, type of PCB stock, etc.) I hope it isn't to out of place to ask what people have actually been using / doing which is successful. Thanks in advance. - Mark
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stop send me answears
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dear, I don't want to send me e-mails from answears
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Drill Press
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I just bought a quality drill motor and drill press from Jameco and need help with a laser siteing idea to put a laser dot under board in center of hole to be drilled. Has anyone done this that has a parts list I can adapt to my press? How about a cross hatch on top of board? Which would be best? I am open to ideas and looking for assistance.
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[Slightly OT] Recommendations for hot air soldering gun
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Just beginning an adventure in SMD PCBs and wondered if there are any reasonably cheap units around that would do the job (eg fleabay). I have a hot air paint stripper but although the heat is about right the air flow is rather fierce and would probably scatter the SMD stuff to the 4 winds. I have the solder paste and a solder mask for the PCBs. TIA Dave
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Tinning Boards
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I know its being a while since I bought liquid tin, but it seems to be quite expensive these days. Is there a less expensive alternative out there? What does everyone else do? Tin or leave the copper bare? thanks Peter ve3poa
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ALLPCB may not want hobby PCB business
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was [homebrewpcbs] can anyone make a 3 component example in DIPTRACE I made gerber and drill files and I followed the naming convention rules. and then I displayed my gerber files in GERBV on Linux and GERBVIEW on Windows 10 and I zipped my gerbers and sent them to OSHPARK and they immediately displayed the correct results http://www.learnmorsecode.com/fldigi/2/oshpark1.png http://www.learnmorsecode.com/fldigi/2/oshpark2.png so ...with oshpark showing those images I figured I passed the industry stand tests for gerber and drill files and I did not buy from OSHPARK this time because they wanted $60 for 3 PCBs. and then I sent them to ALLPCB because they were supposed to be real cheap. and after they rejected them I sent the same zip file to JLCPCB and they had no problem producing 50 PCBs for $42 and ..delivered in 6 days. while at the same time ALLPCB kept rejecting my zip file and telling me they had issues like asking me if my solder mask was negative and then another time they said there was no copper layer... at all. I played with ALLPCB .... I went along with all of their "issues"... asked questions... got answers... changed what they asked for... and then figured out a pattern of their standard operating procedure. They do correspondence in English with a customer service rep who is not an engineer. Then ...they pass along files to engineers. Then the engineers use multiple types of software to display and approve a production run. They sent me screen images that were all in Chinese except for key words like RS-274-X and then other emails they sent me clear English and all that time I am certain no TWO same engineers examined my ZIP file. and then I told the customer service rep to have the engineer look at this image : http://www.learnmorsecode.com/fldigi/digiface/IMG_8550.JPG on this web page http://www.learnmorsecode.com/fldigi/digiface/index.html and then tell me whats wrong with my gerber and drill files http://www.learnmorsecode.com/fldigi/2/digi13.zip and then they replied that my copper was mixed with my pads. WTF????? and then JLCPCB delivered http://www.learnmorsecode.com/fldigi/digiface/JLCPCB50.jpg and I pulled the plug on ALLPCB and they refunded my $116. So.... this got me wondering......... why would ALLPCB give me such a hard time to make a hundred dollar order? Why would such a high tech staff of engineers who are used to playing with multilayer thousand hole PCBs and SMT tolerances only seen with a microscope........... WHY WOULD THEY BLOW ME OFF? A guy who hands them a single layer PCB for hobby electronics? Is it because ALLPCB expects you to buy a low volume prototype batch and then sign on for a lifetime of thousands of PCBs made by them later? So... I guy like me shows up asking for 100 PCBs ...once.... tell that guy to go away... they don't need my $100. Well.. they saved me $50. Their price with shipping clocked in at 97 cents per PCB and JLCPCB was 42 cents per PCB. ALL of my gerber files came from reaConverter and my drill files were hand crafted and nothing came from DIPTRACE. I wanted to see what simple files looked like. To learn what it should look like. Thats why I asked for ONE LED one resister and one 9 volt batter with leads. I only picked DIPtrace because I have diptrace and if I could not get my diptrace to make exactly what one of you guys made as an example then that would mean I screwed with settings on diptrace and broke something. and I just learned about Sprint-Layout-6 so I am done chasing Diptrace gerber syntax....... Definitely much easier to live with Sprint-Layout-6. On 04/10/2019 11:07 AM, designer_craig wrote: Rob, Possibly they got confused by your Gerber file names, though in theory any file name can be used. I usually set my names to be: BoardOutline.gbr, Bottom.gbr, BottomMask.gbr, Top.gbr. TopMask.gbr, TopSilk.gbr, Through.drl and sometimes BotSilk.gbr. You can also add past mask for a stencil, and other special cutouts etc. I include all layers even if they contain no info. You should get in the habit of viewing your Gerber files as a final sanity check before
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can anyone make a 3 component example in DIPTRACE
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Can anyone make a 3 component example in DIPTRACE that has one L.E.D. connected to one resistor connected to one battery and generate the GERBER and XLN drill files for me to examine? I thought I was doing things correctly and I had sent a ZIP to OSHPARK and JLCPCB and ALLPCB and OSHPARK immediately presents what your PCB will look like.... and wants you to pay $60 for 3 PCBs. and JLCPCB was $42 for 50 PCBs and ALLPCB rejected my GERBERs so I have to wonder what a good GERBER and drill file should look like with 3 components. Noting I did not pay OSHPARK... I just used their upload verification process which did present the desired results.... and JLCPCB worked fine. But ALLPCB definitely has a language barrier. Rob
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can anyone make a 3 component example in DIPTRACE JLCPCB delivers
JLCPCB delivered today.... pretty PCBs ... printed and delivered in a week..... 42 cents each... including delivery fee http://www.learnmorsecode.com/fldigi/digiface/JLCPCB50.jpg while ALLPCB rejected my gerbers 12 times.
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Hello there! question about the group and about etching with naoh + hcl
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Hi guys, I wonder if this is same as the yahoo groups that have been ported? Anyways, I'm new to the list, Hi! I watched the following video from nurdrage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4tWEse2rDI (10 etchants for pcb) And I've settled to try with the one using naoh (he actually used bleach, but I have naoh at hand), and hcl. First because where I live hydrogen peroxide is expensive, second because I prefer mixing, using and disposing of, than storing, and third because I have easy access to the chemicals involved. I know the reaction produces Chlorine gas, though, but one offs is something I'm gonna have to live with. He only mentions this method is not very efficient, which for me might be a pro, as I could control under etching better. My question is if anybody around has ever tried it and can tell me about timings, or any other related tips I should know before trying? Thanks,
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