NaOH and HCL is just going to make salt water and some heat.? It's not going
to be an etchant.

Hi guys,
I wonder if this is same as the yahoo groups that have been ported? Anyways, I'm new to the list, Hi!
I watched the following video from nurdrage:
(10 etchants for pcb)
And I've settled to try with the one using naoh (he actually used bleach, but I have naoh at hand), and hcl. First because where I live hydrogen peroxide is expensive, second because I prefer mixing, using and disposing of, than storing, and third because I have easy access to the chemicals involved. I know the reaction produces Chlorine gas, though, but one offs is something I'm gonna have to live with.
He only mentions this method is not very efficient, which for me might be a pro, as I could control under etching better. My question is if anybody around has ever tried it and can tell me about timings, or any other related tips I should know before trying?
Thanks,

Eduardo,I think the mix you are referring to in the video is the one that
uses NaOCl which is sodium hypochlorite or common household? bleach.? This
is NOT the same as NaOH which is sodium hydroxide or caustic soda.? Both are
common household chemicals but are totally different.? NaOH and HCl will, as
previously stated, simply make NaCl, common salt, and will have no etching
action whatsoever.?Sent from my Samsung Galaxy A5 (2017) on the Telstra
Mobile Network
-------- Original message --------From: Eduardo Costa <ecosta.tmp@...>
Date: 29/3/19 7:26 pm (GMT+10:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re:
[homebrewpcbs] Hello there! question about the group and about etching with
naoh + hcl So how it comes you can see on the video it strips all the copper
from it?On 29/03/2019, designer_craig <cs6061@...> wrote:> NaOH and
HCL is just going to make salt water and some heat.? It's not going> to be
an etchant.>> >>

Hey guys,

So I've mistaken sodium hypoclorite by naoh. I don't know why I was
sure bleach was naoh + water.

I'll first try nacl + hcl, as I know salt+vinegar it's just too slow.

Thanks so much for your help,

Regards,




On 29/03/2019, Andrew Love <alove@...> wrote:

Eduardo,I think the mix you are referring to in the video is the one that
uses NaOCl which is sodium hypochlorite or common household? bleach.? This
is NOT the same as NaOH which is sodium hydroxide or caustic soda.? Both are
common household chemicals but are totally different.? NaOH and HCl will, as
previously stated, simply make NaCl, common salt, and will have no etching
action whatsoever.?Sent from my Samsung Galaxy A5 (2017) on the Telstra
Mobile Network
-------- Original message --------From: Eduardo Costa <ecosta.tmp@...>
Date: 29/3/19 7:26 pm (GMT+10:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re:
[homebrewpcbs] Hello there! question about the group and about etching with
naoh + hcl So how it comes you can see on the video it strips all the copper
from it?On 29/03/2019, designer_craig <cs6061@...> wrote:> NaOH and
HCL is just going to make salt water and some heat.? It's not going> to be
an etchant.>> >>

Been reading all this etching stuff for some time now.? Been doing it
for 35 years now but have slowed down considerably doing it.? I don't
have any problem etching boards, but drilling them is another matter.?
If it's a simple circuit, NO PROBLEM!? But, any board needing many holes
drilled is problematic for me.? I have a couple Dremel Tools plus a
Dremel drill press.? That said, they must be out of round because the
cost of broken drill bits using them on one board has become intolerable
for me.? When finished, the cost of drills used up for one board is not
worth.? So lately I have been using Proto Boards for the most part as
all the holes are pre-drilled.? I don't know what all of you experience
making your own boards but the drilling is my problem and not etching
the thing!? Lastly, the Chinese will make you nice PC boards cheap if
you can send them a GERBER File.? I'm now in the early stages in
learning how to do this.? Then I'll be forever free of having to etch my
own boards or drill them.? The cost of a Chinese board is cheaper then
what I can make it for myself and will be plated, masked, silk screened
and have plated through holes for multi layer boards.? The real cost to
me will be learning how to use a CAD program.? I'm beyond doing most of
this stuff myself.? Having it done today can be cheaper and better then
home made.

Lee, w0vt

I have a couple Dremel Tools plus a
Dremel drill press.? That said, they must be out of round because the
cost of broken drill bits using them on one board has become intolerable
for me.? When finished, the cost of drills used up for one board is not
worth.

Dremels are not as precise as you'd like. They do have significant
runout, it's likely both the collet (aluminum) and the bearings. For
handheld work they are exactly at the right level of precision. For
drilling #76 holes with carbide bits.... I hope you don't mind buying
the bits in quantity lots.

I had a rather poor drill stand that I used with a dremel. I got
so-so results. I changed to a Proxxon drill. I found that the 12
volt version was satisfactory for PC boards up to about 1/8 inch
holes. At the top end, you'd like to use a regular drill press anyway
and hold the board down. Northward of a #42 drill, I didn't have any
problem hand holding the board. Southward of that, though, larger
holes were a problem.

Proxxon does have a drill press stand, I have no experience with it.

You could build something with parts intended for a 3D printer, the
rail extrusion, and the like. Not sure exactly how well it would
work, though. I haven't designed one.

There are such things as sensitive drill presses, designed for very
small drills, those could work. The problem with larger drill presses
is that they simply aren't fast enough. Spindle speed is too low.

I had a significant problem with parallax, so I was never quite sure
where the hole was to be drilled, and while the pad tends to help
center the drill, on a carbide drill and fast rpm, it doesn't.

I did do an upside down drill press, and so have others. You may find
the thread interesting.

You can get spindles cheap these days, eg

R11-3-175mm-52mm-mounting-bracket-fixture-ER11/32868952490.html
This is what all those little CNC engraving routers use.
Possibly a bit heavy to bolt onto your average 3D printer. You can also buy
just the collet assembly if you've a suitable motor in your junk pile.
Tony

I have a couple Dremel Tools plus a
Dremel drill press.? That said, they must be out of round because the
cost of broken drill bits using them on one board has become intolerable
for me.? When finished, the cost of drills used up for one board is not
worth.

Dremels are not as precise as you'd like. They do have significant
runout, it's likely both the collet (aluminum) and the bearings. For
handheld work they are exactly at the right level of precision. For
drilling #76 holes with carbide bits.... I hope you don't mind buying
the bits in quantity lots.

I had a rather poor drill stand that I used with a dremel. I got
so-so results. I changed to a Proxxon drill. I found that the 12
volt version was satisfactory for PC boards up to about 1/8 inch
holes. At the top end, you'd like to use a regular drill press anyway
and hold the board down. Northward of a #42 drill, I didn't have any
problem hand holding the board. Southward of that, though, larger
holes were a problem.

Proxxon does have a drill press stand, I have no experience with it.

You could build something with parts intended for a 3D printer, the
rail extrusion, and the like. Not sure exactly how well it would
work, though. I haven't designed one.

There are such things as sensitive drill presses, designed for very
small drills, those could work. The problem with larger drill presses
is that they simply aren't fast enough. Spindle speed is too low.

I had a significant problem with parallax, so I was never quite sure
where the hole was to be drilled, and while the pad tends to help
center the drill, on a carbide drill and fast rpm, it doesn't.

I did do an upside down drill press, and so have others. You may find
the thread interesting.