开云体育

Pretty oshpark.com PCBs arrived today: http://www.learnmorsecode.com/gerber/gbr2drl/oshpark.jpg http://www.learnmorsecode.com/gerber/gbr2drl/index.html This has been a caveman paint on the wall style of project where the source of the copper traces artwork was simple black lines drawn over a schematic and parts landing pads...holes... donuts.... added to fit. Very simple. First done on the kitchen table... home brew PCB style: http://www.learnmorsecode.com/D718/d718shine.jpg http://www.learnmorsecode.com/D718/index.html and then just to learn WHAT the fabrication houses wanted in GERBER and EXCELLON drill files I chased that path and learned that there are less than 10 instructions you need to know to hand craft a drill fill which can be cloned to be solder masks. And then the GERBER to DRILL file project gelled. So the pretty PCBs arriving today was the acid test I was waiting for..... to see if all the science of the hand crafted drill and mask files...and board outline.... was accurate. IT WAS. So.... things to use when making drill files from GERBER files: When using GIMP.......Create PDF output.... NOT jpg or GIF and then when printing on a laser printer the DIP holes WILL line up. ALL artwork is looking down on the PCB. No need to flip bottom layer copper traces for a single layer board. BUT TEXT gets flipped to TXET so labels DO need to be written backwards on a bottom silk screen. All PC fabrication houses want a board outline and you can draw it as another layer or you can hand craft the GERBER... which is VERY simplistic. All it has to say is draw a box starting at 0,0. and have extension GKO. G04 audioamp2.gko BOARD OUTLINE* %FSLAX24Y24*% %MOIN*% %ADD10C,0.001*% %LNBORDER*% D02* D10* X000000Y000000D02* X039370Y000000D01* X039370Y027559D01* X000000Y027559D01* X000000Y000000D01* D02M02* ALL PC fabrication houses want solder masks defined. The modern solder mask is an epoxy paint covering the entire printed circuit board with big holes in the epoxy where ever through hole components have holes. The epoxy hole has to be big enough to accommodate a blob of solder and be big enough to allow for some slop in production tolerances. So...... once you have a drill file produced in the EXCELLON format you can take that drill file and clone it and then replace the tool that makes the component holes T01C0.040 ... and increase its aperture size to be big enough for soldering the copper donuts. T01C0.125 AND another bigger tool for screw holes on the corners. T02C0.175 X002000Y002000 X037370Y002000 X002000Y025559 X037370Y025559 M30 and then when you have solder mask defined for the top.... save it with extension GTS then clone it and save it with extension GBS Noting the mask and corner holes : http://www.learnmorsecode.com/gerber/gbr2drl/oshpark.jpg Fab houses do not care if you omit SILK SCREEN layers. To make them you can draw more layers in GIMP and convert them to GERBER with reaConverter and then rename their extensions as GBO and GTO. OSHPARK.com wanted audioamp2.gbl BOTTOM COPPER LAYER audioamp2.gbs BOTTOM SOLDER MASK audioamp2.gko BOARD OUTLINE audioamp2.gts TOP SOLDER MASK audioamp2.xln DRILL HOLES To make this pretty purple PCB. so.... now we have the ability to hand draw or GIMP paint anything we find in a schematic and print it on our laser printer and SIZE the the image by laying components ON that paper. AND IT WORKS FOR TINY SOIC CHIPS!!!!! So now when we want to play with SMT which is too small for me to etch in my kitchen...... I can make GERBERs for fabrication. Yippeeeeeeeeee! KB3BYT

yep DUMBing down a high resolution display is a very useful trick. If you ever find yourself in a program that appears locked into one size and only takes up a quarter of your display area then "dumbing down" to lower resolution will pop that program up to full screen. Surew you can beat on all sorts of default fonts and settings but resolution may sometimes be the best solution to change and undo later.

I did learn EAGLE. Soup to nuts. I learned how to make custom components and schematics and PCBs and concluded I really do not need this complexity for my simple hobby radio electronics needs. I have been dabbling in home brew PCBs for 4 years using crude paint methods with great success. http://www.learnmorsecode.com/ch/index.html But the DDS chips being SMT and not DIP drove me to look into how to make GERBER files for the mail order PCB fabrication houses. I spent an extraordinary amount of time in EAGLE study...and KiCad. BUT my vision is impaired and I have great difficulty reading the tiny icons and buttons on the user interface ... another reason it took so long to learn..... and then I was advised to use CIRCAD because it has the old school DOS low resolution graphics and it did allow me to just plain paint traces and pads: http://www.learnmorsecode.com/circad/index.html BUT CirCad does not make GERBER files and then just for giggles I thought it would be nice to really learn what GERBER and EXCELLON drill file formats were made of and to my surprise there were about 10 instructions to learn and nothing more so I played with IMAGE to GERBER converters and got reaConverter and based on that one tool I was able to order 3 PCBs from OSHPARK without using a complex CAD program. BUT I hand crafted the drill file for OSHPARK using GERBV http://www.learnmorsecode.com/gerber/gbr2drl/index.html and then went looking for HOW to make an accurate EXCELLON drill data file from an IMAGE and concluded that the GERBER format had exactly what I needed to generate a drill file and thats when I made gbr2drl.pl On my way down that path I asked sourceforge GERBV to make those X Y co-ordinates go to a note pad we could cut and paste to build a drill file and I was told the GERBV is the VIEWER for the gEDA package and gEDA will convert GERBER to DRILL file format. THIS IS WHAT I WAS TOLD: =================================================================================== It looks to me as very specific implementation. Although it is easy to implement, I will not do this because it is specific. With Gerbv 2.7 you can export Gerber file to gEDA pcb (or pcb-rnd) format, add drills in pcb program with comfort and then export to Excellon file. Good enough? =================================================================================================== so far.... Its nothing more than a damn unicorn. I installed gEDA and its not behaving or I am not qualified to operate this appliance. so I dropped back and punted and made gbr2drl. SO FOR ANYONE WHO WANTS TO STEP UP TO MAIL ORDERING A PCB BUT DOES NOT KNOW EAGLE, KiCAD OR ANY OTHER COMPLEX PCB DESIGN SOFTWARE all you need to do is draw a circuit in a paint program and convert that image to GERBER and then have a second image of the holes in the PCB and convert that to GERBER and then feed the gerber into gbr2drl and spit out EXCELLON format and in about 10 minutes can be ordering from a fab house. Noting there are many programs that will convert images to GERBERS free. I just settled on reaConverter because it worked great in demo mode. Its the drill file that you can't have for free. BULL http://www.learnmorsecode.com/gerber/gbr2drl/gbr2drl.zip

> I can't get the onscreen layer to save the GERBER instructions. > Any hints? > see: > http://www.learnmorsecode.com/gerbview/index.html > > > softwarecompanions.com > > 73 Rob KB3BYT

Hello everyone, I though I would run a question by you. I have a speaker/mic that is for one brand of radio and I am attempting to repurposed it for a very different one. Connectors and wiring have been done, and I have the PCB almost all sorted out with a bunch of cuts and jumpers, but I would like to create a new one just for my purpose. So, as you can imagine, when making my own board, certain things have to remain in the same location, like mounting screw holes, PTT switch, etc, but other component locations don't have to match up exactly. My plan was to remove and disassemble the original board, and then using one corner as reference, along with a set of calipers, measure out the location of the different critical parts. Do you think that is a fair approach? Other ideas? Maybe a photographic method? I am open to suggestions. Thanks, Albert KI4ORI

I did a search on this topic within the group and the last mention was in 2011. I'm getting going with PCB projects and would like some software recommendation for packages that do circuit capture and board layout. A good library and free are requirements as well as Gerber output so I can get them made by others. I see Kicad but haven't tried it yet. Thanks jim ab3cv

2 years ago I was toying with PIC16F886 chips: http://www.learnmorsecode.com/pic/886/index.html and it dawned on me that the ARDUINO ATMEGA328P would fit the ZIF 28 pin socket so I took a look and found a few very minor mods would make an ATMEGA328P protoboard: http://www.learnmorsecode.com/ATMEGA328P/index.html The idea is to use the AVR ISP to burn the chip then insert it into the protoboard. http://www.learnmorsecode.com/ard/index.html Not use it with the ARDUINO IDE. The goal being to determine the bare minimum requirement and proof of life and then solder it into destination AD9850 VFO with the minimum configuration. 73 Rob KB3BYT

I had unreliable ... unrepeatable results with toner/alcohol transfer and not great results using magazine or newpaper... matte or glossy...... so I tried real toner transfer paper and then got very consistent results. At 15 cents a sheet..... its not a cost prohibitive consumable. https://www.ebay.com/itm/302773202048 https://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-A4-Sheets-Heat-Toner-Transfer-Paper-DIY-PCB-Electronic-Prototype-Mak-new/302773202048 On 01/16/2019 09:31 AM, Dave wrote: Thanks for all the responses. I guess the only way I'll know is to try it. I never made a pcb yet but have been close a few times but as usual, something else gets in the way. I just downloaded 4 pcb cad programs and for making a quick simple pcb, and am going to start with Design Spark. I have Eagle Dad, Kicad, and Diptrace too. For this first project I need to get it done asap and after looking at the others, Design Spark looked the easiest to get going cause I am a noob again. I plan on using the toner transfer and acetone/alcohol method. My circuit is really small and simple and I could probably draw it with a sharpie, but I want it to look professional. :) I will start some other threads on specific questions like the best paper (HP Glossy) or magazine glossy? Thanks, Dave On 1/16/2019 7:59 AM, Rob via Groups.Io wrote: mispeelled link in first email Yes... I agree.... I have seen different properties in inks... but we are talking about TONER for laser printers here...... for toner transfer etching PCBs. not ink so the question raised is if generic refill toners .... black powder..... targeting HP LaserJet laser printers ARE OK to use. http://www.learnmorsecode.com/ch/index.html http://www.learnmorsecode.com/laminator/hotcakes.html On 01/16/2019 05:24 AM, Kevin Byrne via Groups.Io wrote: It has been my experience to use only genuine HP ink. Properties of different inks of remanufactured places I gather.

mispeelled link in first email Yes... I agree.... I have seen different properties in inks... but we are talking about TONER for laser printers here...... for toner transfer etching PCBs. not ink so the question raised is if generic refill toners .... black powder..... targeting HP LaserJet laser printers ARE OK to use. http://www.learnmorsecode.com/ch/index.html http://www.learnmorsecode.com/laminator/hotcakes.html It has been my experience to use only genuine HP ink. Properties of different inks of remanufactured places I gather.

Yes... I agree.... I have seen different properties in inks... but we are talking about TONER for laser printers here...... for toner transfer etching PCBs. not ink so the question raised is if generic refill toners .... black powder..... targeting HP LaserJet laser printers ARE OK to use. http://www.learnmorsecode.com/ch/index.htm http://www.learnmorsecode.com/laminator/hotcakes.html It has been my experience to use only genuine HP ink. Properties of different inks of remanufactured places I gather.

Has anybody tried the Xerox HP 1022 compatible toner cartridge in an HP LaserJet 1022 for pcb making? I'd hate to spend $87 if I can spend half of that with good results. Thanks

What are the recommendations for silk screening white lettering on green solder resist? I thought about using Pulsar white TRF but I don’t see how the toner would stick to the plastic resist mask.

One of the local Ham operators is working on building one of these kits, and he messed up one of the boards and wants me to come up with a good scheme to hook in new wiring hes purchased to feed into his DB9 plus on the other end. The old setup only uses a phone line cord, and does not include all the feeds from the reed switches. Heres some photos of the board that got butchered with the wires coming from the center of the board, and 2 other photos showing a good new untouched board. http://www.mediafire.com/folder/8yeb7mllwo2vb/WS-1080-WV I'm thinking of making a custom system that either brings the connections for the reed switches to the center like we tried on the other board, or install some a pin header connector? Or there are some mini din type jacks but not sure if they are enough pins. I believe this is 8 reed switches plus 1 ground common so I guess thats why hes using a db9 on the other end of his cabling to his display center near his ham radio. Theres not much room for anything to come out on the component side where the reed switches are mounted, so looks like the best bet is coming thru the bottom like they did with the phone jack. Also would like it to be secure so that any movement or in the event a storm takes it down, it dont tug on the reed switches or ruin the board. Steve Hearns Technotronic Dimensions, VT [USA] WWW.TECHNOTRONIC-DIMENSIONS.COM 1.518.663.3421 (MAIN) 1-877-817-9885 (Voice / Fax Toll Free - US Only) E-Mail: Steve@...

Not sure if this is an on-Topic post, but thought maybe someone here may be able to recommend a way to grab an image via a photo and using photoshop make a stencil or impression of sorts for a stereo indicator dial on glass where the letting came off: http://www.mediafire.com/view/tyj2abv8ld4vl44/HPIM0472.JPG/file I'm told this was maybe silkscreened originally, but I have found pictures online of the original lettering on real products: http://www.mediafire.com/file/esl1dkmkz1ijm71/mac1700dial.zip/file I thought maybe import them into photoshop or something, then cut out the stuff needed and remove the excess, after enlarging it. Then resize based on the original dimensions of the glass and line up with the original markings. If that can all be done, how would I go about making it into a stencil? Or would it be easier to print it on clear sticky sheets and just stick it on? The lettering is white, so I guess it would have to be a color printer? Steve Hearns Technotronic Dimensions, VT [USA] WWW.TECHNOTRONIC-DIMENSIONS.COM 1.518.663.3421 (MAIN) 1-877-817-9885 (Voice / Fax Toll Free - US Only) E-Mail: Steve@... -- Webmaster, Parts-Link: (http://www.parts-link.com) Group Moderator: TV-Repair (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tv-repair) Monitor-Repair (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/monitor-repair)

Thanks Rob. Yeah, the issue I have is with the holes along the bottom of those boards for the bus. Everywhere else has been mostly fine. But the bit sort of goes through them, and then they wrap themselves around the drill bit and pull off. I’ve got pics of the board I’ve made and the artwork: http://bradhodge.ca/blog/?cat=27 The bit I am using is a Dremel 1/32” (?) bit.. it comes in a pack of 6 of them, it’s the very smallest one. Seems pretty sharp to me but maybe not. I’ve tried different speed settings with the dremel to see if that helps but so far no dice. That’s cool re your CP/M system – I just bought a Ferguson Big Board II that was setup that way also. Unfortunately the previous owner decided to toss the case, keyboard and floppies. Fortunately they saved the board. Brad

Found some pictures of Jon Titus’ Mark-8. My first computer was a CP/M 8 user system with two 8 inch floppies. If you are drilling those really tight IC pads you might need sharper drill bits.

I use a #60 drill bit and have found that a dull bit makes a mess or breaks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/271021962613 I like a larger trace and landing size for my home brewed circuits. I always make a dough nut or cross shape in the artwork so the drill bit will waltz into the PCB without binding too much with the copper. http://www.learnmorsecode.com/AGC/AGC21.jpg http://www.learnmorsecode.com/AGC/index.html I often get dozens of PCBs out of one #60 drill bit before it breaks. I used to use smaller drill bits ..#70.. but concluded that the smaller hole was not worth breaking 2 bits on each PCB.

Hi guys, So I’m working on a replica of Jon Titus’ Mark-8. I’ve made a set of boards using his plans, and also using some 1973 vintage blank PCB stock to etch them on. So far so good, but I’m running into a problem along the bottom of the board – there are a series of very small holes/pads that have to be drilled through for the bus. I’m using a dremel with a 1/32” bit and I had the foresight to put holes in each of the pads. Regardless, the drill is simply wrapping them around the shaft and pulling them off the board. Not sure what I can do here.. any recommendations? Should I have done the drilling before I etched? Brad

Hello everyone, Is there a safe method to etch a pcb? (and that doesn't stain like ferric chloride) Etching time is not so important, maybe 1 to 1.5 hours maximum. Suggestions are welcomed Thanks in advance Hyu Virus-free. www.avg.com