Mark:
I've made an of some images from my printer. Sorry for the blurriness on some of them, one of my light systems just died so the exposure was long. As far as I can tell, my main option is going to be to make a ramp which just goes down to the surface of the table the printer is on. I can't imagine the hole through the normal front cover will allow it to work.
Thanks!
On Thu, Aug 30, 2018 at 11:03 AM Mark Lerman < mlerman@...> wrote:
I am the author of those Instructables. Send me a picture of what the
front end of the printer looks like at this stage and I will help you as
best I can.
Mark
At 08:35 AM 8/30/2018, you wrote:
Hello,
I am attempting to convert a Dell 1720 printer using the 3rd revision of
the Lexmark
This method has gone pretty much perfectly up until now, but I'm left
with one of the difficult bits: how do I handle alignment and feeding of
the tray into the printer because I do not have a door to mount a guide
on.
I keep seeing references Michael "Mike" Sims (K4GMH) doing this
conversion successfully, but I can't find any pictures or other
clues.
Does anyone have information on the "front tray" mechanical
aspects of this conversion? Any pictures even?
If someone could even provide me with contact information that'd be
appreciated.
|
I am the author of those Instructables. Send me a picture of what the
front end of the printer looks like at this stage and I will help you as
best I can.
Mark
At 08:35 AM 8/30/2018, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello,
I am attempting to convert a Dell 1720 printer using the 3rd revision of
the Lexmark
This method has gone pretty much perfectly up until now, but I'm left
with one of the difficult bits: how do I handle alignment and feeding of
the tray into the printer because I do not have a door to mount a guide
on.
I keep seeing references Michael "Mike" Sims (K4GMH) doing this
conversion successfully, but I can't find any pictures or other
clues.
Does anyone have information on the "front tray" mechanical
aspects of this conversion? Any pictures even?
If someone could even provide me with contact information that'd be
appreciated.
|
Hello,
I am attempting to convert a Dell 1720 printer using the 3rd revision of the Lexmark?
This method has gone pretty much perfectly up until now, but I'm left with one of the difficult bits: how do I handle alignment and feeding of the tray into the printer because I do not have a door to mount a guide on.
I keep seeing references Michael "Mike" Sims (K4GMH) doing this conversion successfully, but I can't find any pictures or other clues.
Does anyone have information on the "front tray" mechanical aspects of this conversion? Any pictures even?
If someone could even provide me with contact information that'd be appreciated.
|
Re: F.cu connections to pins soldered on B.Cu
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Re: F.cu connections to pins soldered on B.Cu
Greetings, As enciclopedic information (I was never do it before), I know that the process involve the activation of the PCB and then the copper deposition by electrolysis. regarding your question I found this instructable that I neither do it yet too.
rojecas
El mar., 31 jul. 2018 a las 20:02, Vagulus (< rick@...>) escribi¨®: My project involved several proprietary breakouts attached to a main PCB.? They are physically mounted on the top of the board and the pins are? soldered on the B.Cu layer (as I believe is normal).? That's where I get lost!?
One of the proprietary breakouts is the Arduino Pro Mini - the brains of the operation - which has a footprint like this
Assume I have a two-layer PCB:? most of the pins of the Pro Mini are connected to traces on B.Cu but some must connect to traces on F.Cu.? As illustrated, this footprint is just a collection of standard pads.? How do they connect through the fibreglass of the board?
I guess this is a silly question to those of you in the know, but it has me stumped.? I cannot find anything on the Net or in any literature which explains this mystery.? I hope one or more of you can help.
Thanks
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Re: Printer cleaning sheets
The "problem" paper may work a lot better if it's "fanned" a bit before putting it in the printer tray. That's done by holding one end of a tray-load of paper and letting the other end droop, thus making all sheets shift a bit with respect to the next sheet. Do this from both ends and both sides before putting the paper in the tray and perfomance will probably improve.
Then again, using non-problem paper is the real solution.
Jim H
Received from Steven Hearns at 8/8/2018 09:27 PM UTC:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The Pixma I thought I fixed yesterday, they say its picking up multiple sheets at a time, and when they go to a different type of paper, it works fine. The humidity's been unusually high around this area for weeks now, and it just rained again. I guess moistened paper may stick together easier than dry, they claimed the humidity may be causing it. I think I heard of that before somewhere...I guess it makes sense.
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Re: Printer cleaning sheets
The issue isn't how well the paper towels stand up to the solvents alcohol, water, and ammonia.The issue is that most paper towels, I've found, are not bonded together that well. So little threads come off. It only takes a tiny bit of detritus laying across the nozzle opening to wick ink out. Or laid across the seal at the park station.Sadly, the local Dollar Store started carrying a different, awful kind of window wipe. Same package, different contents. Just about the time I was going to buy a case
Steven Greenfield AE7HD Yes, that is a well known problem. And it is why companies like Kimberly-Clark make and sell products like KimWipes and other lint free wipes. The companies I worked for purchased them by the case and I probably used a million of them over the years. On top of that, I have cleaned devices from precision optics, to professional VTRs, to film cameras and projectors as well as many, many other professional electronic and mechanical devices. I can tell you that except for optics, lint is a very overstated problem. Most lint will be wiped or blown off a mechanical part in the first millisecond of operation. Ink nozzles? Sure they may need a bit more care, but just how much ink will wick out from one piece of lint of fiber. Once that piece of lint or fiber is covered with it, there is no where else for it to go. And the first time that nozzle is used, is fired, away goes that lint or fiber and the problem is no more. I would have little concern with cleaning any part of a printer with a common kitchen paper towel. Every company that I have worked for has tried their hardest to purchase the cheapest printer paper that they can get away with. Do you think the bargain ink jet paper is lint and fiber free? Dream on. After the first sheet of paper is run through that printer, any lint or fibers from even the world's worst paper towel will be long gone. They will be clinging to the first 1/4 inch of that page that went through the printer. And they will probably be replaced ten fold with new lint or fibers from that paper itself. In short, your issue is a non-issue. As I said earlier, go ahead and get those printer cleaning sheets. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS AND FOLLOW THEM. Clean your printer with them. And for pity sake, STOP WORRYING ABOUT NOTHING. Other companies offer similar products.
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Re: Printer cleaning sheets
On 10/08/18 07:18, Steven Greenfield AE7HD via Groups.Io wrote: No desktop printer uses oil or solvent based inks. Pigmented inks in desktop inkjets are just water based (with additives). Got confused by remembering "oil paint" here: <> Never heard of Nifti before, reading about it, it seems to be Australia's version of 409. I'd avoid sudsing agents.
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Re: Printer cleaning sheets
The issue isn't how well the paper towels stand up to the solvents alcohol, water, and ammonia.
The issue is that most paper towels, I've found, are not bonded together that well. So little threads come off. It only takes a tiny bit of detritus laying across the nozzle opening to wick ink out. Or laid across the seal at the park station.
Sadly, the local Dollar Store started carrying a different, awful kind of window wipe. Same package, different contents. Just about the time I was going to buy a case.
--
Steven Greenfield AE7HD
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Re: Printer cleaning sheets
No desktop printer uses oil or solvent based inks. Pigmented inks in desktop inkjets are just water based (with additives).
Never heard of Nifti before, reading about it, it seems to be Australia's version of 409. I'd avoid sudsing agents.
--
Steven Greenfield AE7HD
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Re: Printer cleaning sheets
Great answers by Adam Steve and Paul, thanks much.
The Pixma I thought I fixed yesterday, they say its picking up multiple sheets at a time, and when they go to a different type of paper, it works fine.
The humidity's been unusually high around this area for weeks now, and it just rained again.
I guess moistened paper may stick together easier than dry, they claimed the humidity may be causing it. I think I heard of
that before somewhere...I guess it makes sense.
I know I just went to eat a crispy granola bar I had wrapped in a paper towel from yesterday and its pretty soggy.
Another project I have going on for many weeks now , the glue is drying super super super slooooowwww.
Seems like the moisture is being forced into everything and just when it starts to dry, it rains again.
Steve Hearns
Technotronic Dimensions, VT [USA]
WWW.TECHNOTRONIC-DIMENSIONS.COM
1.518.663.3421 (MAIN)
1-877-817-9885 (Voice / Fax Toll Free - US Only)
E-Mail: Steve@...
--
Webmaster, Parts-Link: ()
Group Moderator:
TV-Repair ()
Monitor-Repair ()
|
Re: Printer cleaning sheets
Steve,
I worked in the TV industry and have cleaned devices from 16mm projectors to professional VTRs to the last of the consumer VTRs to computer disk drives (magnetic, CD, DVD, etc.). For hand cleaning they make paper-like wipes that stand up very well to every solvent that I ever used (freon, alcohol, carbon tet, water based solutions, etc.). I never had a a single problem with these wipes coming apart. In fact, when I used common paper towels, even the cheap ones the janitorial department used, they also stood up well to the solvents but, of course, I never ran them through a printer.
I have used the cleaning tapes for audio recorders and the cleaning disks for the various disk drives. They are made from a high grade material that not only works well but it also lasts for as long as I am willing to keep using it. Generally they are thrown away from an accumulation of dirt, not from fragmentation. They are not made from the wood fibers that standard paper is: they are made from fibers that are much stronger and longer and, unlike normal paper, they are bonded together into a sheet by a water and solvent resistant adhesive. I have not used the printer cleaning sheets, but I think you would be completely safe using them. You should not use standard paper with any kind of solvent as that would surely be a disaster. But the commercial cleaning sheets should be OK if used per the manufacturer's instructions. DO READ those instructions.
On my personal, ink jet printer I have a piece of heavy paper that has cutouts for holding the corners of my checks when I print them. It has the added benefit of actually cleaning out much of the ink buildup on the printers guides and rollers. This is evident by the accumulation of ink on the leading edge and at the leading corners. But I only use it completely dry. I doubt that this is what you would want to use for a professional cleaning, but it is great for home use.
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Re: Printer cleaning sheets
On 08/08/18 21:52, Steven Greenfield AE7HD via Groups.Io wrote: For inkjet printers:
* 5 parts distilled or filtered water
* 4 parts 50% or 70% isopropyl alcohol - clear
* 1 part clear nonsudsing household ammonia - clear
NO drinking water, NO purified water. "Purified" just means anything alive has been killed, still has all the metals and minerals. I found Nifti is really good epson ink cleaner too. I've only used it on the dye inks. I used to use a Stylus 400, but now using an Artisan 1430. Pigment inks might be oil based. Spraying shiny photographic paper with cheap adhesive spray and letting it dry will give a sticky surface. I'll try it one day when i need to give the rollers some extra grip.
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Re: Printer cleaning sheets
On 08/08/18 21:52, Steven Greenfield AE7HD via Groups.Io wrote: For inkjet printers:
* 5 parts distilled or filtered water
* 4 parts 50% or 70% isopropyl alcohol - clear
* 1 part clear nonsudsing household ammonia - clear
NO drinking water, NO purified water. "Purified" just means anything alive has been killed, still has all the metals and minerals. I found Nifti is really good epson ink cleaner too. I've only used it on the dye inks. I used to use a Stylus 400, but now using an Artisan 1430. Pigment inks might be oil based.
|
Re: Printer cleaning sheets
For inkjet printers:
- 5 parts distilled or filtered water
- 4 parts 50% or 70% isopropyl alcohol - clear
- 1 part clear nonsudsing household ammonia - clear
NO drinking water, NO purified water. "Purified" just means anything alive has been killed, still has all the metals and minerals.
-- Steven Greenfield AE7HD
|
Re: Printer cleaning sheets
Ive heard dilute ammonia solution is good for head cleaning. Try dampen a heavy weight paper in ammonina. Good thing about ammonia solution is it leaves no residue once evaporated.
On Wed., 8 Aug. 2018, 13:09 russell shaw, < rjshaw@...> wrote: On 08/08/18 06:41, Steven Hearns wrote:
> Since you guys use printers a lot, wanted to ask you your opinion on
> the products out there like the printer cleaner sheets sold at
> Staples where I guess you insert a sheet of paper in and its I guess
> treated with something that cleans the feed rollers, etc.
>
> Sometimes on the lower end ink jet products, the access to the
> pickup roller is really tough to get to and thought this may be
> something to try.
Nifti was used by TV service techs i know, good for cleaning off
cigarette crap too.
I've used it to make rubber a bit stickier.
Nifti Multi-Purpose Cleaner
<>
The big gun for cleaning off crap and making rubber/plastic stickier is
Citroclean. <>
Some plastics are damaged by softening, and clear plastics made opaque
etc. Right sort of stuff to attack an old rubber roller.
There's also spray adhesive. The cheap stuff may lose it's grip, but it
can remain sticky. Apply with a brush.
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Re: Printer cleaning sheets
On 08/08/18 06:41, Steven Hearns wrote: Since you guys use printers a lot, wanted to ask you your opinion on
the products out there like the printer cleaner sheets sold at
Staples where I guess you insert a sheet of paper in and its I guess
treated with something that cleans the feed rollers, etc.
Sometimes on the lower end ink jet products, the access to the
pickup roller is really tough to get to and thought this may be
something to try. Nifti was used by TV service techs i know, good for cleaning off cigarette crap too. I've used it to make rubber a bit stickier. Nifti Multi-Purpose Cleaner <> The big gun for cleaning off crap and making rubber/plastic stickier is Citroclean. <> Some plastics are damaged by softening, and clear plastics made opaque etc. Right sort of stuff to attack an old rubber roller. There's also spray adhesive. The cheap stuff may lose it's grip, but it can remain sticky. Apply with a brush.
|
Since you guys use printers a lot, wanted to ask you your opinion on the products out
there like the printer cleaner sheets sold at Staples where I guess you
insert a sheet of paper in and its I guess treated with something that
cleans the feed rollers, etc.
Sometimes on the lower end ink jet products, the access to the pickup roller
is really tough to get to and thought this may be something to try.
When I worked on VCR's, they had head cleaning tapes where you soaked the
material with alcohol and it played the material along the heads
to clean them. Seems like these papers are the same kind of idea, but I
guess if you soaked them with alcohol they could come apart in the
mechanisms and cause more problems than they are worth.
I service printers here as part of my duties at the store, and today there was a Cannon Pixma that needed the pickup rollers cleaned, and they were not accessable unless most of the product was torn down.
Turns out there was a mechanical problem and the pickup roller wasnt to bad off, but if I were to do my standard service I would clean it, I just dont like loose ends like that when I repair something, and its clear these "communist" designs are intentionally made to really annoy anyone trying to open them up with the way the plastic pieces interlock in a complicated way with different ways to disassemble everything.
Lots of videos of these on youtube , where the way they are repaired is dropping them out a 4 story window...heh.
Steve Hearns
Technotronic Dimensions, VT [USA]
WWW.TECHNOTRONIC-DIMENSIONS.COM
1.518.663.3421 (MAIN)
1-877-817-9885 (Voice / Fax Toll Free - US Only)
E-Mail: Steve@...
--
Webmaster, Parts-Link: ()
Group Moderator:
TV-Repair ()
Monitor-Repair ()
|
Re: F.cu connections to pins soldered on B.Cu
My intention is more to do this for prototypes for testing and to work out problems before having a proper board made with plated through holes than as a board for long term use. There is also a limit on how complex of a board I would bother making myself rather than having it made even for a prototype.
?
Craig
On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 08:15 PM, Paul Alciatore wrote:
From my experience, I wish you good luck. You will need it if you do
this on any volume of vias.
--
E. Paul Alciatore III
Beaumont, TX
PAlciatore@...
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Re: F.cu connections to pins soldered on B.Cu
From my experience, I wish you good luck. You will need it if you do this on any volume of vias.
--
E. Paul Alciatore III
Beaumont, TX
PAlciatore@...
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Steven Greenfield AE7HD