It's an individual piece of resistance wire from each contact to
the manual terminal strip. As well as setting the level of sound
produced by each key at each drawbar, the resistance acts to
isolate key contacts from each other. Thus each contact needs it's
own individual resistance wire.
On 17/07/2023 13:36, Uwe Menrath wrote:
Hello @ all,
does anyone know per chance how the manual contacts of a C-2 are
wired internally? Is there an individual peace of resistance wire
from each contact point to the related terminal, or is there kind
of a chain, consisting of wire peaces that jump between the
contacts, and finally to the terminal strip?
Best regards!
--
|
Hi Uwe,
no, it is the way you describe it in the first place: individual resistance wires from the terminal strip to each individual contact.
Otherwise it would result in a terrible mess when the resistance wires were ?daisychained“. Then the loudness of a tone would be dependant on whether e.g. the octave is pressed or not. I won’t imagine what else would be involved.
Actualy there some loundness dependency (also called ?compression“) when playing many notes at once. But that’s another story.
— Christoph
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello @ all,
does anyone know per chance how the manual contacts of a C-2 are wired internally? Is there an individual peace of resistance wire from each contact point to the related terminal, or is there kind of a chain, consisting of wire peaces that jump between the contacts, and finally to the terminal strip?
Best regards!
|
Hello @ all,
does anyone know per chance how the manual contacts of a C-2 are wired internally? Is there an individual peace of resistance wire from each contact point to the related terminal, or is there kind of a chain, consisting of wire peaces that jump between the contacts, and finally to the terminal strip?
Best regards!
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
I have a 1968 X77 that has a high pitch coming from the speaker. WHen I engage volume soft it diminishes 70% but is still slightly present. Has me totally baffled. Otherwise is sounds very good considering it's age.
On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 12:17:12 PM EDT, Ali Asreco <aliasreco@...> wrote:
My Leslie hums too. But if the organ switch is on organ only there is no hum. So it's not the Leslie but the organ. It's a little old. 1969...? I can live with it...?
Ali
Le jeu. 8 juin 2023 à 15:14, Wes Garland < wes@...> a écrit?: Oh - if the customer wants 147 switching everywhere........ just do that!
But remember that the front end of a 147 amp is unbalanced, and the front end of a 122 amp is balanced .... to do this properly so that you can just plug into a 147 organ, you need to change the front half of the circuit to match the 147, i.e. get rid of the dual triode buffer and go with the phase inverter .. you should be basically able to rip out of the front half of the amp and copy the 147 circuit. If you leave the feedback network post-6550 alone it will still sound like a 22H. Wes
Thank you Wes,The customer originally wanted all his gear interchangable,and all his other equipment is 147. I should have known better,shame on me ! But I will study and see if we can do it either your way or Chris' way but mostly I just want OUT ! On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 14:00, Wes Garland Alternatively, a Trek-II EIS relay ties in to the 6.3V lines, the audio lines, and the motor outlets... making it very easy to simply replace everything that affects switching but still stay working as a 22H.
Probably the best way to do this is to ditch the DC controlled
speed switching components in the 22H and effectively make it a
22W (if there ever was such a thing). You'll need a relay with a
mains voltage coil and change over contacts to replace the DC
relay. The normally closed contact will operate the fast motors,
and the normally open the slow motors. The relay coil will be
connected across pins 3 & 5 to match the wiring of the "W"
type or 147 Leslie series. Pins 1 & 6 are the signal pins with
pin 1 being ground, and pin 6 signal. Note that this is quite
different to the "H" or 122 wiring, where a balanced signal is fed
to pins 1 & 6 and ground is pin 2 (which you will be using for
the AC mains to the relay coil!). You might get it to work with
the original signal wire remaining connected to pins 1 & 6 and
an added ground wire to pin 1, or you may not. The original first
stage acts as a balanced signal amplifier, with positive signal
being fed to one half of the 12AU7 and negative to the other.
Looking at the schematic, it's possible that it may work
satisfactorily as a phase splitter,with one input connected to
signal ground, if it does, all well and good. If it doesn't, you
will need to look at the schematic of a 147, and rebuild the
circuitry around the 12AU7 to be the same as that used in a 147.
On 07/06/2023 15:52, john
alluneedtoknow via wrote:
I've had to put this project aside due to a large influx of other
work but where I last left it I disconnected everything and
started over and so now had audio and can't find the correct
wiring to get the speed switching to function. I've learned to ask
more questions before committing to something like this,and if I
ever get out of this one I will surely know better next time.?
--
Wesley W. Garland
Director, Product Development
PageMail, Inc.
+1 613 542 2787 x 102
--
Wesley W. Garland
Director, Product Development
PageMail, Inc.
+1 613 542 2787 x 102
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
My Leslie hums too. But if the organ switch is on organ only there is no hum. So it's not the Leslie but the organ. It's a little old. 1969...? I can live with it...?
Ali
Le jeu. 8 juin 2023 à 15:14, Wes Garland < wes@...> a écrit?: Oh - if the customer wants 147 switching everywhere........ just do that!
But remember that the front end of a 147 amp is unbalanced, and the front end of a 122 amp is balanced .... to do this properly so that you can just plug into a 147 organ, you need to change the front half of the circuit to match the 147, i.e. get rid of the dual triode buffer and go with the phase inverter .. you should be basically able to rip out of the front half of the amp and copy the 147 circuit. If you leave the feedback network post-6550 alone it will still sound like a 22H. Wes
Thank you Wes,The customer originally wanted all his gear interchangable,and all his other equipment is 147. I should have known better,shame on me ! But I will study and see if we can do it either your way or Chris' way but mostly I just want OUT ! On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 14:00, Wes Garland Alternatively, a Trek-II EIS relay ties in to the 6.3V lines, the audio lines, and the motor outlets... making it very easy to simply replace everything that affects switching but still stay working as a 22H.
Probably the best way to do this is to ditch the DC controlled
speed switching components in the 22H and effectively make it a
22W (if there ever was such a thing). You'll need a relay with a
mains voltage coil and change over contacts to replace the DC
relay. The normally closed contact will operate the fast motors,
and the normally open the slow motors. The relay coil will be
connected across pins 3 & 5 to match the wiring of the "W"
type or 147 Leslie series. Pins 1 & 6 are the signal pins with
pin 1 being ground, and pin 6 signal. Note that this is quite
different to the "H" or 122 wiring, where a balanced signal is fed
to pins 1 & 6 and ground is pin 2 (which you will be using for
the AC mains to the relay coil!). You might get it to work with
the original signal wire remaining connected to pins 1 & 6 and
an added ground wire to pin 1, or you may not. The original first
stage acts as a balanced signal amplifier, with positive signal
being fed to one half of the 12AU7 and negative to the other.
Looking at the schematic, it's possible that it may work
satisfactorily as a phase splitter,with one input connected to
signal ground, if it does, all well and good. If it doesn't, you
will need to look at the schematic of a 147, and rebuild the
circuitry around the 12AU7 to be the same as that used in a 147.
On 07/06/2023 15:52, john
alluneedtoknow via wrote:
I've had to put this project aside due to a large influx of other
work but where I last left it I disconnected everything and
started over and so now had audio and can't find the correct
wiring to get the speed switching to function. I've learned to ask
more questions before committing to something like this,and if I
ever get out of this one I will surely know better next time.?
--
Wesley W. Garland
Director, Product Development
PageMail, Inc.
+1 613 542 2787 x 102
--
Wesley W. Garland
Director, Product Development
PageMail, Inc.
+1 613 542 2787 x 102
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
Oh - if the customer wants 147 switching everywhere........ just do that!
But remember that the front end of a 147 amp is unbalanced, and the front end of a 122 amp is balanced .... to do this properly so that you can just plug into a 147 organ, you need to change the front half of the circuit to match the 147, i.e. get rid of the dual triode buffer and go with the phase inverter .. you should be basically able to rip out of the front half of the amp and copy the 147 circuit. If you leave the feedback network post-6550 alone it will still sound like a 22H. Wes
Thank you Wes,The customer originally wanted all his gear interchangable,and all his other equipment is 147. I should have known better,shame on me ! But I will study and see if we can do it either your way or Chris' way but mostly I just want OUT ! On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 14:00, Wes Garland Alternatively, a Trek-II EIS relay ties in to the 6.3V lines, the audio lines, and the motor outlets... making it very easy to simply replace everything that affects switching but still stay working as a 22H.
Probably the best way to do this is to ditch the DC controlled
speed switching components in the 22H and effectively make it a
22W (if there ever was such a thing). You'll need a relay with a
mains voltage coil and change over contacts to replace the DC
relay. The normally closed contact will operate the fast motors,
and the normally open the slow motors. The relay coil will be
connected across pins 3 & 5 to match the wiring of the "W"
type or 147 Leslie series. Pins 1 & 6 are the signal pins with
pin 1 being ground, and pin 6 signal. Note that this is quite
different to the "H" or 122 wiring, where a balanced signal is fed
to pins 1 & 6 and ground is pin 2 (which you will be using for
the AC mains to the relay coil!). You might get it to work with
the original signal wire remaining connected to pins 1 & 6 and
an added ground wire to pin 1, or you may not. The original first
stage acts as a balanced signal amplifier, with positive signal
being fed to one half of the 12AU7 and negative to the other.
Looking at the schematic, it's possible that it may work
satisfactorily as a phase splitter,with one input connected to
signal ground, if it does, all well and good. If it doesn't, you
will need to look at the schematic of a 147, and rebuild the
circuitry around the 12AU7 to be the same as that used in a 147.
On 07/06/2023 15:52, john
alluneedtoknow via wrote:
I've had to put this project aside due to a large influx of other
work but where I last left it I disconnected everything and
started over and so now had audio and can't find the correct
wiring to get the speed switching to function. I've learned to ask
more questions before committing to something like this,and if I
ever get out of this one I will surely know better next time.?
--
Wesley W. Garland
Director, Product Development
PageMail, Inc.
+1 613 542 2787 x 102
-- Wesley W. Garland
Director, Product Development
PageMail, Inc.
+1 613 542 2787 x 102
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
Thank you Wes, The customer originally wanted all his gear interchangable,and all his other equipment is 147. I should have known better,shame on me ! But I will study and see if we can do it either your way or Chris' way but mostly I just want OUT !
On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 14:00, Wes Garland <wes@...> wrote: Alternatively, a Trek-II EIS relay ties in to the 6.3V lines, the audio lines, and the motor outlets... making it very easy to simply replace everything that affects switching but still stay working as a 22H.
Probably the best way to do this is to ditch the DC controlled
speed switching components in the 22H and effectively make it a
22W (if there ever was such a thing). You'll need a relay with a
mains voltage coil and change over contacts to replace the DC
relay. The normally closed contact will operate the fast motors,
and the normally open the slow motors. The relay coil will be
connected across pins 3 & 5 to match the wiring of the "W"
type or 147 Leslie series. Pins 1 & 6 are the signal pins with
pin 1 being ground, and pin 6 signal. Note that this is quite
different to the "H" or 122 wiring, where a balanced signal is fed
to pins 1 & 6 and ground is pin 2 (which you will be using for
the AC mains to the relay coil!). You might get it to work with
the original signal wire remaining connected to pins 1 & 6 and
an added ground wire to pin 1, or you may not. The original first
stage acts as a balanced signal amplifier, with positive signal
being fed to one half of the 12AU7 and negative to the other.
Looking at the schematic, it's possible that it may work
satisfactorily as a phase splitter,with one input connected to
signal ground, if it does, all well and good. If it doesn't, you
will need to look at the schematic of a 147, and rebuild the
circuitry around the 12AU7 to be the same as that used in a 147.
On 07/06/2023 15:52, john
alluneedtoknow via wrote:
I've had to put this project aside due to a large influx of other
work but where I last left it I disconnected everything and
started over and so now had audio and can't find the correct
wiring to get the speed switching to function. I've learned to ask
more questions before committing to something like this,and if I
ever get out of this one I will surely know better next time.?
--
Wesley W. Garland
Director, Product Development
PageMail, Inc.
+1 613 542 2787 x 102
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
Alternatively, a Trek-II EIS relay ties in to the 6.3V lines, the audio lines, and the motor outlets... making it very easy to simply replace everything that affects switching but still stay working as a 22H.
Probably the best way to do this is to ditch the DC controlled
speed switching components in the 22H and effectively make it a
22W (if there ever was such a thing). You'll need a relay with a
mains voltage coil and change over contacts to replace the DC
relay. The normally closed contact will operate the fast motors,
and the normally open the slow motors. The relay coil will be
connected across pins 3 & 5 to match the wiring of the "W"
type or 147 Leslie series. Pins 1 & 6 are the signal pins with
pin 1 being ground, and pin 6 signal. Note that this is quite
different to the "H" or 122 wiring, where a balanced signal is fed
to pins 1 & 6 and ground is pin 2 (which you will be using for
the AC mains to the relay coil!). You might get it to work with
the original signal wire remaining connected to pins 1 & 6 and
an added ground wire to pin 1, or you may not. The original first
stage acts as a balanced signal amplifier, with positive signal
being fed to one half of the 12AU7 and negative to the other.
Looking at the schematic, it's possible that it may work
satisfactorily as a phase splitter,with one input connected to
signal ground, if it does, all well and good. If it doesn't, you
will need to look at the schematic of a 147, and rebuild the
circuitry around the 12AU7 to be the same as that used in a 147.
On 07/06/2023 15:52, john
alluneedtoknow via wrote:
I've had to put this project aside due to a large influx of other
work but where I last left it I disconnected everything and
started over and so now had audio and can't find the correct
wiring to get the speed switching to function. I've learned to ask
more questions before committing to something like this,and if I
ever get out of this one I will surely know better next time.?
--
-- Wesley W. Garland
Director, Product Development
PageMail, Inc.
+1 613 542 2787 x 102
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
Thank you Chris, and I promise to never get involved like this ever again !? I will report my findings as time allows.
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
Probably the best way to do this is to ditch the DC controlled
speed switching components in the 22H and effectively make it a
22W (if there ever was such a thing). You'll need a relay with a
mains voltage coil and change over contacts to replace the DC
relay. The normally closed contact will operate the fast motors,
and the normally open the slow motors. The relay coil will be
connected across pins 3 & 5 to match the wiring of the "W"
type or 147 Leslie series. Pins 1 & 6 are the signal pins with
pin 1 being ground, and pin 6 signal. Note that this is quite
different to the "H" or 122 wiring, where a balanced signal is fed
to pins 1 & 6 and ground is pin 2 (which you will be using for
the AC mains to the relay coil!). You might get it to work with
the original signal wire remaining connected to pins 1 & 6 and
an added ground wire to pin 1, or you may not. The original first
stage acts as a balanced signal amplifier, with positive signal
being fed to one half of the 12AU7 and negative to the other.
Looking at the schematic, it's possible that it may work
satisfactorily as a phase splitter,with one input connected to
signal ground, if it does, all well and good. If it doesn't, you
will need to look at the schematic of a 147, and rebuild the
circuitry around the 12AU7 to be the same as that used in a 147.
On 07/06/2023 15:52, john
alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:
I've had to put this project aside due to a large influx of other
work but where I last left it I disconnected everything and
started over and so now had audio and can't find the correct
wiring to get the speed switching to function. I've learned to ask
more questions before committing to something like this,and if I
ever get out of this one I will surely know better next time.?
--
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
I've had to put this project aside due to a large influx of other work but where I last left it I disconnected everything and started over and so now had audio and can't find the correct wiring to get the speed switching to function. I've learned to ask more questions before committing to something like this,and if I ever get out of this one I will surely know better next time.?
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
There would be more to it than just moving wires around on the
6-pin plug. The two problems are; 1) converting the amp from
balanced input to unbalanced, and 2) converting the speed
switching from DC voltage "piggy backed" onto the balanced audio
to a an AC mains voltage relay connected across pins? 2 & 5.
On 12/05/2023 22:33, john
alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:
Is it safe to assume the H22 won't likely work with a
Leslie preamp pedal by rewiring the pins to match the pedal?
On Fri, May 12, 2023 at 16:01, Chris Clifton
Seems that everything about this may not be
standard. A stock 147 has a switch next to the
volume control marked "Console load" with three
positions, "Open", "16 ohm" and 8 Ohm". In a
normal installation connected to an organ with
built in speakers, this is set to whatever
resistance best matches the impedance of the
internal speakers, (In practice, I usually set it
to 16 ohm. I had many service calls where the 8
ohm resistor had burnt out. As this resistor is
half of the 16 ohm load, this resulted in all
three settings becoming open.). The open setting
would normally only be used in multiple Leslie
hook ups, only one of two or more Leslies would
need to have the load resistance set, or with the
old Leslie combo preamp pedal. The 22H was not
intended to be used be used with organs with built
in amplifiers and speakers. The main use for H
series or 122 type Leslies was with Hammond organs
with the G-G output terminals on the organ
pre-amp. A kit was available for connecting to
other organs, but a 147 or W type Leslie would be
the first choice for most organ with built in
speakers.
I don't know what you did to try to make the 22H
amp compatible with the 147 type hook up, ideally
you would have rebuilt the amplifier to be more
like the type 47 or W Leslie amplifiers. Simply
rewiring the input socket might work, after a
fashion, but the input stage would ideally need to
be rewired to be identical to that used in the 147
type amplifiers.
On
12/05/2023 19:02, john alluneedtoknow via
groups.io wrote:
As for the
load resistor Chris advised,the working amp
doesn't seem to have one,just wanted to point that
out.
Regards,
--
--
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
Is it safe to assume the H22 won't likely work with a Leslie preamp pedal by rewiring the pins to match the pedal?
On Fri, May 12, 2023 at 16:01, Chris Clifton <clifton.christopher@...> wrote:
Seems that everything about this may not be standard. A stock 147
has a switch next to the volume control marked "Console load" with
three positions, "Open", "16 ohm" and 8 Ohm". In a normal
installation connected to an organ with built in speakers, this is
set to whatever resistance best matches the impedance of the
internal speakers, (In practice, I usually set it to 16 ohm. I had
many service calls where the 8 ohm resistor had burnt out. As this
resistor is half of the 16 ohm load, this resulted in all three
settings becoming open.). The open setting would normally only be
used in multiple Leslie hook ups, only one of two or more Leslies
would need to have the load resistance set, or with the old Leslie
combo preamp pedal. The 22H was not intended to be used be used
with organs with built in amplifiers and speakers. The main use
for H series or 122 type Leslies was with Hammond organs with the
G-G output terminals on the organ pre-amp. A kit was available for
connecting to other organs, but a 147 or W type Leslie would be
the first choice for most organ with built in speakers.
I don't know what you did to try to make the 22H amp compatible
with the 147 type hook up, ideally you would have rebuilt the
amplifier to be more like the type 47 or W Leslie amplifiers.
Simply rewiring the input socket might work, after a fashion, but
the input stage would ideally need to be rewired to be identical
to that used in the 147 type amplifiers.
On 12/05/2023 19:02, john
alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:
As for the load resistor Chris advised,the working amp doesn't
seem to have one,just wanted to point that out.
Regards,
--
|
Re: 22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
Seems that everything about this may not be standard. A stock 147
has a switch next to the volume control marked "Console load" with
three positions, "Open", "16 ohm" and 8 Ohm". In a normal
installation connected to an organ with built in speakers, this is
set to whatever resistance best matches the impedance of the
internal speakers, (In practice, I usually set it to 16 ohm. I had
many service calls where the 8 ohm resistor had burnt out. As this
resistor is half of the 16 ohm load, this resulted in all three
settings becoming open.). The open setting would normally only be
used in multiple Leslie hook ups, only one of two or more Leslies
would need to have the load resistance set, or with the old Leslie
combo preamp pedal. The 22H was not intended to be used be used
with organs with built in amplifiers and speakers. The main use
for H series or 122 type Leslies was with Hammond organs with the
G-G output terminals on the organ pre-amp. A kit was available for
connecting to other organs, but a 147 or W type Leslie would be
the first choice for most organ with built in speakers.
I don't know what you did to try to make the 22H amp compatible
with the 147 type hook up, ideally you would have rebuilt the
amplifier to be more like the type 47 or W Leslie amplifiers.
Simply rewiring the input socket might work, after a fashion, but
the input stage would ideally need to be rewired to be identical
to that used in the 147 type amplifiers.
On 12/05/2023 19:02, john
alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:
As for the load resistor Chris advised,the working amp doesn't
seem to have one,just wanted to point that out.
Regards,
John
--
|
22H still humming and I have a 147 next to it that works fine. Somewhere along the way I have nothing connected to pin 5 on the hummer. I am in over my head here,people...HELP !!!
As for the load resistor Chris advised,the working amp doesn't seem to have one,just wanted to point that out. Regards,
|
This H-112 came to me from friend who passed away. He got it from a church somewhere outside of Ottawa. There's a broken key (2nd G above middle C) but otherwise it seems in decent condition. Comes with foll pedals and bench. FREE to anyone who wants to pick it up in Montreal (NDG).
Not sure of the age but it has a 1963 Canadian Patent on the plate and SN: A-41921
Russell
PS: I already have an A-100 so don't need another Hammond.
|
And the saga continues; I added the resistor and there was no change. ? ?I connected the amp to a test speaker after the rebuild and the noise floor was incredibly low and signal was robust . The 1147 works fine with his other gear as does the preamp pedal, but still makes the same buzzing sound when connected to this particular amp,the same sound it made before I reassigned the pins,and before I rebuilt the amp. I can only guess it is an incorrect pin assignment therefore I am going to have him bring the amp back along with his 147 amp,cable,and preamp pedal because everything I have here is of the 122 family. Any observations or speculations would be greatly appreciated. Regards,
On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 12:03, john alluneedtoknow via groups.io <keysnleslie122@...> wrote: Thank you Chris, You've made it perfectly clear for me. If not for you I would be destroying many pieces of valuable gear. Warmest regards, John On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 11:59, Chris Clifton <clifton.christopher@...> wrote:
To dumb it down to absolute basics. Connect a 16 ohm 20 watt
resistor between the hot signal feed in your modified 22H amp and
ground. If your modifications have made the signal input 100%
compatible with a standard 147 system, this will be between pins 1
& 6 of the six pin input connector on the Leslie amplifier
chassis.
On 20/04/2023 16:54, Chris Clifton
wrote:
A standard 147 type amp has two 8 ohm 10 watt resistors and the
console load switch with three settings, open, 16 ohm and 8 ohm.
The open position would only be used in installations with
multiple Leslies, only one Leslie would need to have a load set,
all the others would be left at open. In the other two
positions, either one resistor, or both in series are connected
across pins 1 & 6 of the six pin connector. Pin one is
signal ground and pin 6 is signal. All you need to do is wire a
suitable resistor, minimum power rating 10 watts, and a
resistance comparable to the impedance of the built in speakers
of the organ. In practice, although 147's give you the option of
an 8 or 16 ohm load, just going for 16 ohm works well. A quite
frequent call out back in the day was, "The Leslie hums when iI
switch to main". The cause, almost always was that one of the
load resistors had burnt out. Replacing the burnt out resistor
cured the problem, switching to 16 ohm prevented recurrence for
two reasons. 1) I now had two resistors with a total power
rating of 20 watts in circuit instead of just one 10 watt
resistor. 2) The 16 ohm load drew less power from the organ amp
anyway. Most amps, either valve or transistor are perfectly
happy with a nominal load twice of the usual value.
On 20/04/2023 15:33, john
alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:
Thank you Chris, I did overlook the resistor and studying the
schematic I am unclear exactly how to add it. Would you be able
to dumb it down a bit for me?
Thank you in advance,
John
On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 3:40, Chris Clifton
The 147 will have a console load resistor in it.
Does the modified 22H have the equivalent? 147 type
Leslies will hum when the MEE switch is set to main
if the console load resistor is set to open or burnt
out. If you didn't provide such a resistor when
modifying the 22h it will also hum when the switch
is set to main. Without a load resistor, the Leslie
amp has a high input impedance, perfect for allowing
the unscreened signal lead sharing the cable with
mains wiring to pick up hum.
On
20/04/2023 02:19, john alluneedtoknow via groups.io
wrote:
Gentlemen;
? I recently installed a rebuild kit in the 22H amp
because the owner said there was a loud hum from the
amp. Upon completion I tried the amp and it was very
quiet and running well. A few days later the irate
owner called to say it was still humming. I had him
bring it back and I hooked it up to find it was
running nice and quiet as when it left the first time.
I began to ask questions and discovered he was trying
to use it with an 1147 Leslie control box which of
course is incompatible. I rewired the plug on the
Leslie amp to make it compatible with the box (not my
first choice) at which time he took it home and said
it was still humming. He claims the box works fine
with his 147 so I must have missed something but I
haven't been able to figure out what. Any ideas?
Warmest regards,
John
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Re: Hammond x-66 Parts For Sale
This organ is no longer available.? It's got a new home.? Thx.
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Hammond x-66 Parts For Sale
Greetings Everyone - I've had an X-66 that has needed a new home for sometime.? Problem is no one wants to ship the 545 pound beast.? So I think it might be best to see if anyone needs parts for an X-66 that I can remove and ship item by item.? Would focus on things like the power supply, reverb unit, generator etc and specific circuit boards.? Would like to keep the exterior cosmetics in tact for now.? Contact me at "BobGuttman@..." directly so we don't bombard other members with messages. Thank You.
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Re: Hammond repair in Montreal?
I just sent an email to a player in Quebec city. Will let you know if I here anything Brock
On Sat, Apr 29, 2023 at 12:47?PM jean duplanty via <hery_jd= [email protected]> wrote:
I’m sure many in a radius of 100 km from Montreal will be grateful for this info. Cheers, Jean On Saturday, April 22, 2023, 1:54 PM, Russell Proulx <rproulx@...> wrote: Can anyone recommend someone who services/repairs Hammond B3's in Montreal, Quebec?
Thanks,
Russell
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Brock Gillis
Hammond B3
GUNN Blues Band
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Christoph
Uwe Menrath