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vintage semiconductors & vacuum tubes available
9
I have a collection of 60s', 70's & 80's vintage semiconductors available. I've begun a Google spreadsheet with descriptions as best as I can find information. Several of these devices are of germanium construction. Several seem to have "in house" or non-standard numbers on them, making identification difficult or impossible since they were out of production before the Internet. Some are gold plated. Some similar items (not mine) are posted for sale at what seems like ridiculous prices via eBay. The spreadsheet is here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1shelluHmfrSCaTIYmH6zmDTXpYlYzt6IQvXNENlebGM/edit?usp=sharing I also have a collection of vacuum tubes available, listed in a separate Google spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1shelluHmfrSCaTIYmH6zmDTXpYlYzt6IQvXNENlebGM/edit?usp=sharing The tubes listed on that spreadsheet have been tested as noted using an Eico 666 tester. The tube list is a living document..there are more tubes to be tested and added to the list. I'm trying to reduce my collection of "stuff" before I retire. Feel free to inquire regarding transactions. I accept payments via PayPal, Zelle and personal check with time for the bank. I'm happy to properly pack and ship. I use PirateShip.com for reduced costs via USPS & UPS services.
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Vintage Tube Sockets, Switches, Fuse Holders Available
I have a couple of panels from the electric utility industry that contain several (4 per panel) 8 pin & 4 pin (4 per panel) tube sockets in addition to toggle switches, rotary switches (single pole 4 position, 3 per panel, no idea on ratings), fuse holders, etc. The sockets are riveted to the panel but I can remove them without damage to the sockets. I thought I'd offer these here before tossing them into the recycling bin. Any interest? Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dpmm2bYSzcYMubqWA
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B3 percussion doesn't decay
2
I installed a ZD-1 overdrive in the lower left cheek block and all is okay except now when percussion is turned on it doesn't decay. I checked the voltage on the AO-28 K terminal (per https://www.dairiki.org/HammondWiki/PercussionTroubleshooting) and it immediately goes to 0 volts when the percussion switch is turned on. The installation of the ZD-1 was straightforward, and I don't think anything was damaged in the process. It does require unbolting the large hex head bolts that hold the manual assembly in place, and then lifting it to unbolt the cheek block and then replace it. Both manuals need to be tilted up at various points in the install to either install of the ZD-1 or route the cable from it to the AO-28. I took some care in the process but at one point or another probably jarred the manual assembly a bit lifting and positioning it. The unit also has a Trek reverb bolted to the inside top of the cabinet on the start/run switch end. Lifting the manuals could cause a few upper drawbars to contact the reverb, but there is no damage there or anything bent. Before I go further per the Dairiki instructions, any suggestions from the collected wisdom here? Thanks, Dave
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B-3 available
4
Right now on CTbids.com there is a Hammond B-3 for sale. Owner says it's working condition. I am high bidder at $1. I think I my high bid is $50. I can't pick up the organ. I don't really have space for it if I did. I hope one of you guys can get it. David
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Since I've sworn off all social media, I'm back to mailing lists—hoping I'm still welcome here. I'm currently rebuilding a crossover, where maintaining correct polarity is critical, especially since I sometimes run two Leslies. My research into the nomenclature for the *L* and *S* on S(ocket)7 and P(lug)7 indicates they stand for *Large* and *Small*, which makes sense, right? Further investigation suggests that the *Large* terminal is typically the positive connection. Upon examining the cable that goes from the amp to the dividing network, the red wire is indeed soldered to the *Large* pin. Yet on the schematic, *L* is labeled **BLK** and *S* is labeled **RED**. Looking further down the signal path, it turns out *L (BLK)* is actually the positive, while *S (RED)* is the negative. Any insights on this discrepancy?
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Hi, when switching slow to fast or vice versa on the red Tremolo switch, there is quite a bang through the speakers. I seem to remember that a while ago my local organ tech (now retired) advised it may be a capacitor on the amplifier though I didn't get the details. I have the T500 service manual and I think I can work it out from there if someone can point me in the right direction. Many thanks. By the way I downloaded the manual from a website called archive.org. Hammond Organ Service Manual - T-500 Series : Hammond Organ Co. : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive
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Hi All, I have a very clean unmodified 1959 B3 and a 122R Leslie. The only mod is the Trek II reverb. The only change to its sound I'd consider would be an option to give it the 'grind' sound typical in some rock settings, not the full on distortion ala Deep Purple, but just some grit when desired. The unit is fully functional and while fairly noise free it does have a low level hum. I have nothing to compare it to, so don't know if it is considered 'normal'. I bought the A0-28 capacitor kit and the Leslie 122 rebuild kit from Tonewheel General Hospital. I have a lot of electronics experience, so have no questions about safety, or changing out components, but I am looking for any general comments, things to look for, etc while I have the unit opened up for these changes. Also, I see some change in brightness from the Leslie's OC3/VR105 when changing the rotor speed. Is this normal due to the way the Leslie speed is indicated via changing the voltage sent to the Leslie? Thanks, Dave
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Hi - I recently acquired a free T-262 (to save it from the dump) and it has no sound other than a hum. Originally the TWG was making terrible whirring noises. That’s gone after several days of adding oil. On the Organ Forum it was suggested I try to contact Chris Clifton on this site for some guidance. I’ve had numerous TWG organs but have never worked on a solid state model. Thanks in advance! Ned
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Estate item, family wants it gone. The instrument was being worked on by the late owner. We have no idea of the condition or issues. Service manual included. It's on a cart. $200. Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/qnMRstrJSK4fTjGJ7 Thanks, Robin Midgett K4IDC
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FS: Aurora Organ, Nashville, TN
This project is still available and is now FREE. Come get it, otherwise it'll be discarded. Located in Hermitage, TN, 37076. Thanks, Robin Midgett K4IDC
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Hi folks, I am looking for a 7-pin Amphenol plug and cover for a Hammond recording project. Have tried the big names I know of but have drawn a blank so far. Does anyone have any ideas on who I could call? Many thanks in advance Robert
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Twilly note on my A100
9
Greetings folks. I have a note on my A100 that sounds off. It kind of reminds me of a cheesy combo organ where part of the note is out of tune or something. It's not chorus or vibrato. Was thinking of re-capping the unit, wondering if that would help. Please help. Danno007
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JR20 Question
3
Things seem pretty quiet on the list lately, so I thought I'd ask a question: What is the function of the "Bass Correction" switch, on a JR20 tone cab? Looking at the schematic, it appears to switch a resistor (R35, 1K) in and out of series with the cathode resistors on the bass channel preamp tubes (V7 + V8, 6SJ7s). Does that just function to change the bias on those tubes? Or...?
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PR20 tone cab problem
4
Having an issue with my PR-20 and was hoping for some guidance. It plays fine and sounds great, with one exception: every so often I get a random surge of noise (static/crackle, pops, slight distortion, sometimes a kind of whistling), that goes on for 20-30 seconds or more. This seems to happen particularly when I hit the amp with significant volume. I think I have isolated the noise to the output tube (V11, 6BQ5) for the Reverb channel. When the noise starts, I can lightly tap the top of that tube, which makes a loud thump, but it usually stops the ongoing noise. Then it plays clean for awhile, sometimes as long as maybe 15 minutes before it acts up again. Sometimes switching the reverb level with the knob on the side of the cabinet will make the noise stop as well. I have tried changing that tube with no effect. Could this be a problem with the tube socket? I have hit it with contact cleaner several times, but the problem hasn't gone away. I know guitar guys like to change tube sockets when they rebuild amps, but I've never had an issue with one. So, should I suspect maybe C49 or C50? I recapped this amp with the kit from Tonewheel General a few years back: http://www.tonewheelgeneral.com/build_page.php?category=Hammond+Organ+Parts&subcat=Parts+Kits . So hopefully that rules out a filter cap issue. Thanks for any advice. When it's not acting up, the PR20 sounds great - especially in tandem with my "new" JR20!
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WTB smooth-edge keys
2
So, I had an "aha" moment about the BCV that I posted about earlier - the one I acquired late last year. It's from 1938, so it should certainly have the "ratcheting" drawbars, in fact unless I miss my guess they should have been the chrome type, with the numbers actually stamped in. ...But in fact, someone has evidently been at this organ before me: much to my surprise it actually has smooth drawbars. It does however still have the "sharp-edged" keycaps. I was actually struck by just how much of an edge they have - "palm smears" are a little problematic on these. Now, ordinarily my impulse would have been to preserve everything as original, especially given the venerable age of this instrument. (It's actually so early the manufacturer's tag reads "Hammond Clock Co." instead of "Hammond Organ Co."!) But now it looks like that ship has already sailed - those original chrome drawbars are long gone. So, I thought I'd go ahead and make this a full-on "player grade" B, by changing out the keycaps for the later, smooth-edged kind. With all that said: can anyone sell me some smooth keycaps? I have 2 octaves I had set aside just in case of damage to my old C3. So, I would need 8 octaves total. If anyone has some for sale, please contact me via email: scott (dot) brand (at) aya (dot) yale (dot) edu. Cheers guys!
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Hello, I have a Leslie 330 and all of a sudden I'm am not getting any sound. Motors and everything working normally just no sound output. Is there an output fuse? If any one has any suggestions please let me know. Thank you George Sent from Outlook for iOS
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I ended up after a couple of years with an m102 but it had some issues. i recently acquired another m102 in much better shape. It's only problem it seems is that the pedal seems to have on effect on volume. It plays at roughly the same full volume of the old organ. the volume soft tab works and the drawbars all work. the lever behind the pedal works. any suggestion for next steps.... ie... a specific tube maybe? any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you
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Surplus Hammonds
5
Here in Southern Saskatchewan I have in an unused church, 4 tone wheel organs for which there seem to be no future owners here on the prairies. M2, and two L100 plus a L100 that is not operational. There is also a M3 in Saskatoon. Tonewheels and electronics have not been touched since new to my knowledge. The local church I attend also uses an M3 which they have had since new and which I have maintained for about 15 years. They have withstood the test of time. The house next door is trying to dispose of an XTP which was played by family members for many years. Not much interest shown there. These are all for taking away. Comments appreciated. Gordon, VE5UJ
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So I had a Leslie 330 that came up dead, a couple years back: no sound, motors not running, nothing. --But, no blown fuses. I finally had a chance to get into it tonight. T2 was getting very warm to the touch, very quickly. So I investigated around that part of the circuit... the culprit turned out to be C1 (250uF, 35VDC). I replaced it and everything's fine again, running on a combo preamp pedal. (Incidentally that's the second time I've had a D.O.A. condition on an 11-pin Leslie, due to a faulty C1.) The thing is, when the fault first appeared two years ago I had been trying the Leslie out on an otherwise untested, new-to-me B3000 (using the built-in 11-pin output). Unfortunately, the 330 had sat idle for awhile at that point; and I didn't have the sense to test it in a "known good" configuration before I plugged it in to the B3000. As a result, when the Leslie turned out not to work, I didn't know whether maybe there was a problem with the B3000, or the Leslie had just happened to fail at that point. So my question: assuming everything on the organ is stock, is there any way the B3000 connection could have caused C1 to give up the ghost? Or was that fault most likely a coincidence? Am I asking for trouble if I try the Leslie on the B3000 again? Thanks in advance for any guidance.
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Hello to all, my 1st post so far: I live in Europe and own Hammond L-100 (European version of Porta-B). The motor is broken and my serviceman cannot find a 220 V version. Any ideas where to look for it?
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