Re: Hammond repair in Montreal?

#83175

I’m sure many in a radius of 100 km from Montreal will be grateful for this info.

Cheers,

Jean

Show quoted text

On Saturday, April 22, 2023, 1:54 PM, Russell Proulx <rproulx@...> wrote:

Can anyone recommend someone who services/repairs Hammond B3's in Montreal, Quebec?

Thanks,

Russell

Hammond repair in Montreal?

#83174

Can anyone recommend someone who services/repairs Hammond B3's in Montreal, Quebec?

Thanks,

Russell

Re: Leslie 22H

#83173

Thank you Chris,

You've made it perfectly clear for me. If not for you I would be destroying many pieces of valuable gear.

Warmest regards,

John

Show quoted text

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 11:59, Chris Clifton
<clifton.christopher@...> wrote:

To dumb it down to absolute basics. Connect a 16 ohm 20 watt resistor between the hot signal feed in your modified 22H amp and ground. If your modifications have made the signal input 100% compatible with a standard 147 system, this will be between pins 1 & 6 of the six pin input connector on the Leslie amplifier chassis.

On 20/04/2023 16:54, Chris Clifton wrote:

A standard 147 type amp has two 8 ohm 10 watt resistors and the console load switch with three settings, open, 16 ohm and 8 ohm. The open position would only be used in installations with multiple Leslies, only one Leslie would need to have a load set, all the others would be left at open. In the other two positions, either one resistor, or both in series are connected across pins 1 & 6 of the six pin connector. Pin one is signal ground and pin 6 is signal. All you need to do is wire a suitable resistor, minimum power rating 10 watts, and a resistance comparable to the impedance of the built in speakers of the organ. In practice, although 147's give you the option of an 8 or 16 ohm load, just going for 16 ohm works well. A quite frequent call out back in the day was, "The Leslie hums when iI switch to main". The cause, almost always was that one of the load resistors had burnt out. Replacing the burnt out resistor cured the problem, switching to 16 ohm prevented recurrence for two reasons. 1) I now had two resistors with a total power rating of 20 watts in circuit instead of just one 10 watt resistor. 2) The 16 ohm load drew less power from the organ amp anyway. Most amps, either valve or transistor are perfectly happy with a nominal load twice of the usual value.

On 20/04/2023 15:33, john alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:

Thank you Chris, I did overlook the resistor and studying the schematic I am unclear exactly how to add it. Would you be able to dumb it down a bit for me?
Thank you in advance,

John

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 3:40, Chris Clifton

<clifton.christopher@...> wrote:

The 147 will have a console load resistor in it. Does the modified 22H have the equivalent? 147 type Leslies will hum when the MEE switch is set to main if the console load resistor is set to open or burnt out. If you didn't provide such a resistor when modifying the 22h it will also hum when the switch is set to main. Without a load resistor, the Leslie amp has a high input impedance, perfect for allowing the unscreened signal lead sharing the cable with mains wiring to pick up hum.

On 20/04/2023 02:19, john alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:

Gentlemen;
? I recently installed a rebuild kit in the 22H amp because the owner said there was a loud hum from the amp. Upon completion I tried the amp and it was very quiet and running well. A few days later the irate owner called to say it was still humming. I had him bring it back and I hooked it up to find it was running nice and quiet as when it left the first time. I began to ask questions and discovered he was trying to use it with an 1147 Leslie control box which of course is incompatible. I rewired the plug on the Leslie amp to make it compatible with the box (not my first choice) at which time he took it home and said it was still humming. He claims the box works fine with his 147 so I must have missed something but I haven't been able to figure out what. Any ideas?
Warmest regards,
John
--

--

--

Re: Leslie 22H

#83172

开云体育

To dumb it down to absolute basics. Connect a 16 ohm 20 watt resistor between the hot signal feed in your modified 22H amp and ground. If your modifications have made the signal input 100% compatible with a standard 147 system, this will be between pins 1 & 6 of the six pin input connector on the Leslie amplifier chassis.

On 20/04/2023 16:54, Chris Clifton wrote:

A standard 147 type amp has two 8 ohm 10 watt resistors and the console load switch with three settings, open, 16 ohm and 8 ohm. The open position would only be used in installations with multiple Leslies, only one Leslie would need to have a load set, all the others would be left at open. In the other two positions, either one resistor, or both in series are connected across pins 1 & 6 of the six pin connector. Pin one is signal ground and pin 6 is signal. All you need to do is wire a suitable resistor, minimum power rating 10 watts, and a resistance comparable to the impedance of the built in speakers of the organ. In practice, although 147's give you the option of an 8 or 16 ohm load, just going for 16 ohm works well. A quite frequent call out back in the day was, "The Leslie hums when iI switch to main". The cause, almost always was that one of the load resistors had burnt out. Replacing the burnt out resistor cured the problem, switching to 16 ohm prevented recurrence for two reasons. 1) I now had two resistors with a total power rating of 20 watts in circuit instead of just one 10 watt resistor. 2) The 16 ohm load drew less power from the organ amp anyway. Most amps, either valve or transistor are perfectly happy with a nominal load twice of the usual value.

On 20/04/2023 15:33, john alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:

Thank you Chris, I did overlook the resistor and studying the schematic I am unclear exactly how to add it. Would you be able to dumb it down a bit for me?
Thank you in advance,

John

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 3:40, Chris Clifton

<clifton.christopher@...> wrote:

The 147 will have a console load resistor in it. Does the modified 22H have the equivalent? 147 type Leslies will hum when the MEE switch is set to main if the console load resistor is set to open or burnt out. If you didn't provide such a resistor when modifying the 22h it will also hum when the switch is set to main. Without a load resistor, the Leslie amp has a high input impedance, perfect for allowing the unscreened signal lead sharing the cable with mains wiring to pick up hum.

On 20/04/2023 02:19, john alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:

Gentlemen;
? I recently installed a rebuild kit in the 22H amp because the owner said there was a loud hum from the amp. Upon completion I tried the amp and it was very quiet and running well. A few days later the irate owner called to say it was still humming. I had him bring it back and I hooked it up to find it was running nice and quiet as when it left the first time. I began to ask questions and discovered he was trying to use it with an 1147 Leslie control box which of course is incompatible. I rewired the plug on the Leslie amp to make it compatible with the box (not my first choice) at which time he took it home and said it was still humming. He claims the box works fine with his 147 so I must have missed something but I haven't been able to figure out what. Any ideas?
Warmest regards,
John
--

--

--

Re: Leslie 22H

#83171

开云体育

A standard 147 type amp has two 8 ohm 10 watt resistors and the console load switch with three settings, open, 16 ohm and 8 ohm. The open position would only be used in installations with multiple Leslies, only one Leslie would need to have a load set, all the others would be left at open. In the other two positions, either one resistor, or both in series are connected across pins 1 & 6 of the six pin connector. Pin one is signal ground and pin 6 is signal. All you need to do is wire a suitable resistor, minimum power rating 10 watts, and a resistance comparable to the impedance of the built in speakers of the organ. In practice, although 147's give you the option of an 8 or 16 ohm load, just going for 16 ohm works well. A quite frequent call out back in the day was, "The Leslie hums when iI switch to main". The cause, almost always was that one of the load resistors had burnt out. Replacing the burnt out resistor cured the problem, switching to 16 ohm prevented recurrence for two reasons. 1) I now had two resistors with a total power rating of 20 watts in circuit instead of just one 10 watt resistor. 2) The 16 ohm load drew less power from the organ amp anyway. Most amps, either valve or transistor are perfectly happy with a nominal load twice of the usual value.

On 20/04/2023 15:33, john alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:

Thank you Chris, I did overlook the resistor and studying the schematic I am unclear exactly how to add it. Would you be able to dumb it down a bit for me?
Thank you in advance,

John

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 3:40, Chris Clifton

<clifton.christopher@...> wrote:

The 147 will have a console load resistor in it. Does the modified 22H have the equivalent? 147 type Leslies will hum when the MEE switch is set to main if the console load resistor is set to open or burnt out. If you didn't provide such a resistor when modifying the 22h it will also hum when the switch is set to main. Without a load resistor, the Leslie amp has a high input impedance, perfect for allowing the unscreened signal lead sharing the cable with mains wiring to pick up hum.

On 20/04/2023 02:19, john alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:

Gentlemen;
? I recently installed a rebuild kit in the 22H amp because the owner said there was a loud hum from the amp. Upon completion I tried the amp and it was very quiet and running well. A few days later the irate owner called to say it was still humming. I had him bring it back and I hooked it up to find it was running nice and quiet as when it left the first time. I began to ask questions and discovered he was trying to use it with an 1147 Leslie control box which of course is incompatible. I rewired the plug on the Leslie amp to make it compatible with the box (not my first choice) at which time he took it home and said it was still humming. He claims the box works fine with his 147 so I must have missed something but I haven't been able to figure out what. Any ideas?
Warmest regards,
John
--

--

Re: Leslie 22H

#83170

Thank you Chris, I did overlook the resistor and studying the schematic I am unclear exactly how to add it. Would you be able to dumb it down a bit for me?

Thank you in advance,

John

Show quoted text

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 3:40, Chris Clifton
<clifton.christopher@...> wrote:

The 147 will have a console load resistor in it. Does the modified 22H have the equivalent? 147 type Leslies will hum when the MEE switch is set to main if the console load resistor is set to open or burnt out. If you didn't provide such a resistor when modifying the 22h it will also hum when the switch is set to main. Without a load resistor, the Leslie amp has a high input impedance, perfect for allowing the unscreened signal lead sharing the cable with mains wiring to pick up hum.

On 20/04/2023 02:19, john alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:

Gentlemen;
? I recently installed a rebuild kit in the 22H amp because the owner said there was a loud hum from the amp. Upon completion I tried the amp and it was very quiet and running well. A few days later the irate owner called to say it was still humming. I had him bring it back and I hooked it up to find it was running nice and quiet as when it left the first time. I began to ask questions and discovered he was trying to use it with an 1147 Leslie control box which of course is incompatible. I rewired the plug on the Leslie amp to make it compatible with the box (not my first choice) at which time he took it home and said it was still humming. He claims the box works fine with his 147 so I must have missed something but I haven't been able to figure out what. Any ideas?
Warmest regards,
John
--

Re: Leslie 22H

#83169

开云体育

The 147 will have a console load resistor in it. Does the modified 22H have the equivalent? 147 type Leslies will hum when the MEE switch is set to main if the console load resistor is set to open or burnt out. If you didn't provide such a resistor when modifying the 22h it will also hum when the switch is set to main. Without a load resistor, the Leslie amp has a high input impedance, perfect for allowing the unscreened signal lead sharing the cable with mains wiring to pick up hum.

On 20/04/2023 02:19, john alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:

Gentlemen;
? I recently installed a rebuild kit in the 22H amp because the owner said there was a loud hum from the amp. Upon completion I tried the amp and it was very quiet and running well. A few days later the irate owner called to say it was still humming. I had him bring it back and I hooked it up to find it was running nice and quiet as when it left the first time. I began to ask questions and discovered he was trying to use it with an 1147 Leslie control box which of course is incompatible. I rewired the plug on the Leslie amp to make it compatible with the box (not my first choice) at which time he took it home and said it was still humming. He claims the box works fine with his 147 so I must have missed something but I haven't been able to figure out what. Any ideas?
Warmest regards,
John

--

Leslie 22H

#83168

Gentlemen;
? I recently installed a rebuild kit in the 22H amp because the owner said there was a loud hum from the amp. Upon completion I tried the amp and it was very quiet and running well. A few days later the irate owner called to say it was still humming. I had him bring it back and I hooked it up to find it was running nice and quiet as when it left the first time. I began to ask questions and discovered he was trying to use it with an 1147 Leslie control box which of course is incompatible. I rewired the plug on the Leslie amp to make it compatible with the box (not my first choice) at which time he took it home and said it was still humming. He claims the box works fine with his 147 so I must have missed something but I haven't been able to figure out what. Any ideas?
Warmest regards,
John

Re: E-x00 line out issue

#83167

Hey, just a follow-up here... Chris you nailed it: signal bleed from the wiring.? I had installed the lineout at the rear bottom of the cabinet, to keep the plug-in cable out of the way.? Much of the original wiring was run along there, just behind the back cover at the bottom (neatly bound with red twist-ties).? So when I had a chance to go back and take another look, as an experiment I was able to just physically push and pull those wires, at which point the bleedthrough signal would fade in and out.? An easy fix, then: just diverted the wiring 5 or 6 inches as there was plenty of slack.? Internal speakers mute to dead silence now.? Thanks!

Re: E-x00 line out issue

#83166

Thank you Chris, that was what I had thought to do initially, i.e. use a DPDT switch (or at least SPDT).? Just didn't have one in my kit, and our local electronics shop is long gone unfortunately!

I appreciate the explanation.

Re: E-x00 line out issue

#83165

开云体育

It could be that there is enough capacitive coupling across the switch either between the open switch contacts or the wiring to the switch to still provide some signal to the power amp. I'd try using a DPDT switch with the second pole wired so as to connect the input of the power amp to ground when you want to mute the internal speakers, as well as opening the signal path.

On 27/03/2023 19:48, scott.brand@... wrote:

Hey guys, could use a little help from the Forum.? I've added a line out to an E-312 for a friend, but I'm having a weird issue.? I wired it at the power amp input (i.e., coming off the preamp and volume pedal), with an SPST switch to allow muting the internal speakers.? The problem is that there's a little bleed-through - sounds like it's only going to the 8" speaker in the main channel.? (Not the reverb speaker; the reverb tabs don't affect it.)

For reference, the preamp signal goes to one terminal of the SPST so it can be interrupted; the other terminal carries the signal on an RCA pigtail cable and plugs back into the power amp normally.? The shielding for both are connected to the ground on a 50K potentiometer.

The signal for the output is picked up right off the SPST terminal; runs through a 4.7K resistor and a 10uF cap; then to the input of the 50K pot so it can be padded down.? The output of the pot then obviously goes to the signal terminal on the 1/4" output jack.

I can't get my head around how the signal is bleeding through to the internal speaker.? It's quiet, but just audible enough to be annoying!

Any thoughts?

--

E-x00 line out issue

#83164

Hey guys, could use a little help from the Forum.? I've added a line out to an E-312 for a friend, but I'm having a weird issue.? I wired it at the power amp input (i.e., coming off the preamp and volume pedal), with an SPST switch to allow muting the internal speakers.? The problem is that there's a little bleed-through - sounds like it's only going to the 8" speaker in the main channel.? (Not the reverb speaker; the reverb tabs don't affect it.)

For reference, the preamp signal goes to one terminal of the SPST so it can be interrupted; the other terminal carries the signal on an RCA pigtail cable and plugs back into the power amp normally.? The shielding for both are connected to the ground on a 50K potentiometer.

The signal for the output is picked up right off the SPST terminal; runs through a 4.7K resistor and a 10uF cap; then to the input of the 50K pot so it can be padded down.? The output of the pot then obviously goes to the signal terminal on the 1/4" output jack.

I can't get my head around how the signal is bleeding through to the internal speaker.? It's quiet, but just audible enough to be annoying!

Any thoughts?

Hammond CV chop

#83163

I haven't posted in a while, but thought I'd tap into the expertise at hammondzone and request opinions on the selling price for a CV chop. I had the preamp rebuilt but it probably needs a new set of tubes.? I have it wired for a 1/4" output running through an Arp tube preamp to a Motion Sound 145.? Attached are a photo and mp3 of an organ trio recording. Any feedback would be appreciated.?

Steve Adams

09E984FC-3CFA-4C15-A9AB-700AFD66E054_1_105_c.jpeg

Sustained 2 21 23.mp3

Some fun from 1945

#83162

I was curious about the "frivolity" in this movie, considering this was at the time of the end of WWII which was?September 2, 1945.

This video is from a movie,?George White's "Scandals" a 1945 American film, which came out in?October 10, 1945.

I don't know the details or logistics of the ending of WWII.? It didn't just end overnight ....nor does a movie get made overnight.

I suspect societies all over the world knew the end of the war was imminent .....so perhaps everyone was in a good party mood(?)

Re: X-77-Tonewheel Generator - BEARINGS - LUBRICATIONS - UPDATE-24FEB23 - switch problem?

#83161

Ok, but when did the "noise" start?? Was is after something was done?

I was suggesting an "audio" technician if an "organ" person is not available. This may NOT be an organ issue. There may be a filtering circuit in one of the amps, specific to the Celeste.

If you have the manual, you should consider contacting any audio technician with circuit board designing and building knowledge. If you can find someone, they can sit down with the manual, that is full of ALL the amplifiers, and related circuitry, and identify which amplifier is likely the culprit .....OR .....one of the Hammond experts following this forum, may be able to identify which amplifier needs attention straight away and chime in.

Bottom line is, you need to get this machine running! A few hundred bucks should easily get this fixed!

.....and don't forget to lubricate the TWG .....as I have found mine was very thirsty. The organ sat quiet for many years. I am now going to get back to the charts I used to play many moons ago.

On Friday, February 24, 2023 at 04:56:28 PM PST, Gail Wrighter via groups.io <gwrighte@...> wrote:

The high pitch is coming out of the lower right speaker. At some point I'm going to get to it, literally, and see what I can figure out. Organ repair men in my area are few and far between as are organists. Other than the high pitch the organ performs very well considering it's age and the wood and brushed steel are immaculate. Only been in 2 houses and moved twice.

On Friday, February 24, 2023 at 06:29:47 PM EST, Wayne Tarling via groups.io <tarlingw@...> wrote:

Hi Gail. Mine is a low hum, typical of a power interference. But as initially pointed out, I had 8 seconds of "louder hum" when turning on the organ ...and then dropping off to an acceptable level after 8 seconds... on the 77.? ?The 147 was the reverse because the tubes.? ?I believe I will not be able to investigate this further until I get the speaker selector switches sorted out permanently because I have sheet metal removed in order to access these switches.

You are back east, NY area I believe. No one that you of with Hammond knowledge. Have you tried to find anyone?

You mentioned that you detected a change to the "hum" with the Celeste tab.? ?Was there any one thing that happened that initiated the "hum" ...such as moving it to a different location?

This may possibly be an "electronics" issue ...that any audio technician could work on.? I'm sure a Hammond person could zero in on one of the channels as being suspect particularly when you mentioned the Celeste tab.? The X77 manual has ALL the schematics in it including the latest versions. I think you mentioned you have it (145 pages-pdf). I think I mentioned this before, this may in fact be one amplifier.? If a Hammond person could confirm this, then you could sent this one amp off for diagnosis and repair .....or a Hammond person might be able to suggest a couple of things to try. I believe you said you had tried a few things.? Sounds like you would be willing to participate up to a point.

Just some thoughts

?to get you going.

Now on to my switches.

Geoff, thanks for your email about ways to "adjust" the contacts. Chris had offered a method as well. I have found these "springs" to be very soft.? This means they can be bent very easily by rubbing them in a certain way without trying to actually bend them.? But as Chris recommended "be very careful".

The "Echo Only" switch is readily accessible at the top terminals. I have disconnected all these five wires at the top to take the switches out of the cct. and checked each one.? All were functioning as expected, except for the switch position with the arrow.? For some reason this reading would NOT disconnect.? There was always continuity regardless of the switch position.

I have looked everywhere around the top area for any add'l wires/connections and see nothing "extra". I cannot see the bottom area very well. There are a number of add'l wires around the bottom, but they should not have anything to do with the testing done on the "top side" continuity testing.

Chris is well aware of these switches, but the question is,"is there some kind of "logic" on this one switch location that requires it to be "closed" in both positions?

I have searched through the pdf manual and found how the "top" terminals should be connected. I have also found a wiring diagram on page 125 of the pdf manual. It's called:

This one page is confusing if you're not a Hammond person.? It appears to offer the wiring information to the bottom terminals.? There is a single wire connecting the five terminals together providing a common on one side of the "Main Only" switch., which has me believe this terminal group is the bottom of the switch ...but that's just a guess. It could be that the view of the tabs showing lettering is a view from the top and the view without lettering is the bottom view of the tabs/switch (?)

I have also come across the same situation of continuity NOT being broken on one of the switch positions on the "Main Only " tab as well.

So perhaps the simplest of questions is should ALL switches demonstrate both open and closed contact conditions on both "Echo" and "Main" switches?

Thanks to all

Wayne

On Tuesday, February 21, 2023 at 08:55:03 AM PST, Gail Wrighter via groups.io <gwrighte@...> wrote:

Is your speaker hum a high or low pitch? Mine has a high pitch which I don't seem to get rid of. Very annoying.

On Tuesday, February 14, 2023 at 08:51:37 PM EST, Wayne Tarling via groups.io <tarlingw@...> wrote:

Well everything went reasonably well. TWG running very quiet.? Manuals functioning? ....pedals not.

I opened up the console base panel, which had not been touched yet.

I disconnected the 77 Leslie previously as it had too much power hum for the stage I was at. (Didn't need to be listening to it)

a)? with the pedals not "responding", I thought I would try the "Pedal Bus-Bar Shifter".? It has a slot on the end of the shaft as if for a screwdriver, but I thought I would try turning with my fingers first.? To my surprise, the shaft moved very easily CW about 90°? and not so much CCW ....so I left it re-positioned 90° CW.? ? I tried the pedals ....no change.? ?I went back to the speaker selector, "Main Only" and "Echo Only", just moving the switches, and immediately had the pedals working with "Echo Only" depressed. (147)? I was quite surprised with this as this selector had been down previously with no response.? I went through all the pedals and drawbars and everything was working.

b) I powered down to connect the 77 Leslie. Powering back up got the 8-10 seconds of power hum, which subsided more significantly this time and put the "Main Only" speaker selector down and had full pedals (77) ....but I couldn't tell if the 147 was still functioning.? Pushing the "Echo Only" tab down and found the 147 was now NOT working with the pedals. (It had been 20 seconds ago)? Keyboards were fine (both).? I ended up flicking this (Echo Only) switch up and down, getting mainly electrical contact clicking with no connection for the pedals.? (????)

Unfortunately, looking at the back of the organ, the entire bank of these switches are buried behind a metal box running full length.? There are also a few screws on the top of this metal box, which can only be accessed with the top of the console removed.

With much "playing around", I am getting to the summary that the "Echo Only" tab/switch (147) is either not making a proper contact for some reason ...perhaps just a cleaning needed?? The "Main Only" switch, when down, (77) the manuals and pedals function fine ...as they should.? I also note, that the power hum from the 77 Leslie is far less now. Pretty much quite acceptable ....as compared to the 147 which has a very too noticeable hum.? ?I see some notes on "HUM" on page 20 & 24 of the Hammond Manual.? I'll check that out later.

Does anyone have any knowledge of accessibility to the "Echo Only" switch?? I cannot see in behind.??

I am looking at page 20 and 21 that reference "removing the top.? There is a section about removing the top:

Is this the correct instruction?? I'll have to look around for each of these details, (where these screws are) assuming this is the correct instruction.

Then of course, I am hoping this switch can be tested for "make" condition ....and then can the contacts be cleaned or fixed?

?.....or do I have this all wrong and there is something else causing this problem?? ?So far the problems have been principley mechanical in nature.

Re: X-77-Tonewheel Generator - BEARINGS - LUBRICATIONS - UPDATE-24FEB23 - switch problem?

#83160

The high pitch is coming out of the lower right speaker. At some point I'm going to get to it, literally, and see what I can figure out. Organ repair men in my area are few and far between as are organists. Other than the high pitch the organ performs very well considering it's age and the wood and brushed steel are immaculate. Only been in 2 houses and moved twice.

On Friday, February 24, 2023 at 06:29:47 PM EST, Wayne Tarling via groups.io <tarlingw@...> wrote:

Hi Gail. Mine is a low hum, typical of a power interference. But as initially pointed out, I had 8 seconds of "louder hum" when turning on the organ ...and then dropping off to an acceptable level after 8 seconds... on the 77.? ?The 147 was the reverse because the tubes.? ?I believe I will not be able to investigate this further until I get the speaker selector switches sorted out permanently because I have sheet metal removed in order to access these switches.

You are back east, NY area I believe. No one that you of with Hammond knowledge. Have you tried to find anyone?

You mentioned that you detected a change to the "hum" with the Celeste tab.? ?Was there any one thing that happened that initiated the "hum" ...such as moving it to a different location?

This may possibly be an "electronics" issue ...that any audio technician could work on.? I'm sure a Hammond person could zero in on one of the channels as being suspect particularly when you mentioned the Celeste tab.? The X77 manual has ALL the schematics in it including the latest versions. I think you mentioned you have it (145 pages-pdf). I think I mentioned this before, this may in fact be one amplifier.? If a Hammond person could confirm this, then you could sent this one amp off for diagnosis and repair .....or a Hammond person might be able to suggest a couple of things to try. I believe you said you had tried a few things.? Sounds like you would be willing to participate up to a point.

Just some thoughts

?to get you going.

Now on to my switches.

Geoff, thanks for your email about ways to "adjust" the contacts. Chris had offered a method as well. I have found these "springs" to be very soft.? This means they can be bent very easily by rubbing them in a certain way without trying to actually bend them.? But as Chris recommended "be very careful".

The "Echo Only" switch is readily accessible at the top terminals. I have disconnected all these five wires at the top to take the switches out of the cct. and checked each one.? All were functioning as expected, except for the switch position with the arrow.? For some reason this reading would NOT disconnect.? There was always continuity regardless of the switch position.

I have looked everywhere around the top area for any add'l wires/connections and see nothing "extra". I cannot see the bottom area very well. There are a number of add'l wires around the bottom, but they should not have anything to do with the testing done on the "top side" continuity testing.

Chris is well aware of these switches, but the question is,"is there some kind of "logic" on this one switch location that requires it to be "closed" in both positions?

I have searched through the pdf manual and found how the "top" terminals should be connected. I have also found a wiring diagram on page 125 of the pdf manual. It's called: