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One of the main reasons I went with this amp is that I tried to buy a
Tokyo Hi Power and they refused to sell to me since I live in the
USA. They said that they would not sell to US customers. I then tried
to buy a Yaesu FT-110 on e-bay but kept getting out bid. I then did a
lot of searching and research on the web and that is how I came
across the RM Italy amp I eventually bought. I first looked at
another amp from a German company (I'm sorry but I don't remember
their name) and it was the first to produce an amp specifically
designed for the 817. I was going to buy one of their amps but I came
across RM Italy. I e-mailed them with questions about their amps and
compatibility with the 817 and they said that they were desiging one
that would be made just for the 817 (since it was such a popular
radio). I was directed by RM Italy to the H&Y Electronics web site
where I was told that I would have a 3 Month wait. I purchased the
amp and settled in for the wait. I finally got my amp and it is very
well made.

I am not an electrician just an amature radio nut. I have been using
this amp off and on with my 817 (I still like to QRP more than go hi
power) but it has worked for me. I use it into a Hustler 4-BTV
antenna, ground mounted with no radials and have spoken to others as
far away as Slovenia.

I have no complaints.

My original intent was to use it with my 817 for when I needed more
power, but while I was waiting for my amp to arrive I bought a Yaesu
FT-100D which I use for most of my HF stuff.

I find it amazing how many old hams will jump on a person for sharing
a piece of information BEFORE they investigate the item themselves.

I have a friend who runs the echolink W0ANT here in Des Moines and he
said that when he first started up his echo-link repeater he took a
lot of flack from old hams for doing something that they didn't
perceive as REAL HAM radio.

I know know what he means. It appears that any time someone brings
out some new gadget and presents it to the ham community a bunch of
the OLD hams attack them for the new ideas. In my opinion (since we
all are expressing our opinions here) that is what will kill Amature
Radio for any new hams. The constant badgering from those who know
better to those of us who are trying to investigate new ways of doing
the same old thing.

I would think that any amature hobby like ours would first approach
any new ideas with interest before the burning at the stake. Our
hobby has too many who would rather shoot the messanger then read the
message.

Just my $.02 worth.

73s. Rick.

--- In FT817@..., kc3vo@a... wrote:

I also looked at the web page for this amp, it DOES appear to make

an attempt

at harmonic filtering, although it only uses HALF as many relays as

normally

required. It would be interesting to investigate the ability of its

filters to

perform to U.S.A. requirements. It appears to be a TWO stage amp,

with a

DRIVER and finals, so should have very high gain, and drive easily

with the

FT-817, but the CAPACITORS in the low-pass harmonic filters APPEAR

rather small for

the stated 150 to 200 watts output, and I wonder how well they will

fare into

less than IDEAL antenna matching/mismatching?
It is LARGER than the TOKYO HY-POWER unit, and, of course,

requires more

than DOUBLE the amperage, due to the extra stage, and higher power

output. I

suppose it IS worth further investigation, but we KNOW that the

products from

TOKYO HY-POWER do the job PROPERLY.
(Tokyo HY-POWER also makes 200 watt and higher power amps that

will work

with the FT-817, as I own an amp from them that gives me 400 watts

output with

my FT-817. (I had it, with a VERY SPECIAL ni-cad battery,

configured in my

"QRO" HF backpack at DAYTON this year), but due to the weather, and

my commitments

with YAESU, I missed the "HF Pack" pedestrian mobile shootout, but

as they

say, maybe NEXT time!
Best 73 to all, and good DX!-----------------------KC3VO,

Bob Curry,

Maryland, USA.

Hi All.

since yesterday my 817 has no more power. on all bands the power has reduced to 0.5 watt (high power and 0.1 W low power) i tried reset CPU (HOME+POWER) but didnt help.

the rig does get warm (allmost hot :-) ) however when i transmit for a while.
im affraid my final has blown to peaces, but hope it is something else. anyone another idea as the final ??

the power is on all bands the same max 0.5 W. i also have the idea (but it could be emagination) that the rig on SSB has much less RX as i used to receive.

also i tried front and rear antenna ..but it stays the same..

---=== Freddy (PD2AYZ)===---

Hi, all!

I have had a problem the last month or so with my 817.
If I have it in memory scanning mode, and push the pwr-button to turn
the radio off. Then when I turn the radio on, it starts scanning band
(VHF or UHF) instead. It seems not to be in vfo-mode but starting
from the frequency I have on the "Home-button" (145.750 in VHF and
434.750 in UHF).
So I have to press the V/M-button three times to get it right.
The first press makes it stop scanning.
The second press gets the radio into vfo-mode.
The thired press gets it over to memory-mode.
Now I can press up-button on mike to start scanning memories again.

I am not shure if I have been into some menu and made something I
shouldn't. I looked in all menus to see if I could find anything that
seems to have an impact on this matter, but couldn't find anything.

Appreciate any comments!!

73 de Thor - SM7LZQ

Hi.

My FT 817 has lost its power. on all bands and on both antenna
connectors. however when i transmit the rig is getting normaly warm
as it always did.

on high power the max output is about 0.5 watts and on the lowest
power its about 0.05 watts..

i also have the idea that on SSB mode my RX is also gone..or much
less as it was.

I tried several times to reset the CPU but it didnt help.
anyone an idea what this can be.. it seems weird to me that the final
has gone because the rig is getting normaly hot when transmitting.

---=== Freddy (PD2AYZ)===---

Snap on ferrite bead
Reading all of the replies to this question, I began to wonder if the
ferrite bead was only supplied with the Asian models. But KG2QM's rig
came supplied with a ferrite bead.
My advice for those of you who have just purchased or purchasing an
FT817:
Rule #1: Read the instructions.
Rule #2: If your rig does not work correctly, refer to rule #1.

I have two FT817's. I bought one for backpacking and mobile, the
other for base, but use both in the base when not in the field. The
first thing I did before connecting the supplied power cord to my
power supply (before connecting power to the rig) was to snap on the
ferrite bead as close to the rig end of the cord as possible.

Greetings all,
I had a similar problem with mine a short time after I bought it while using the rubber duck on UHF and was ready to send it back for repair until I remembered the ferrite bead that came in the box with the rig. While using 5 watts and an external power supply RF sometimes sneaks up the power cord and causes trouble. I snapped the bead over the power cord up close to the radio (looks a little ugly) and that has taken care of the problem at least for me.
Hope this helps!! 73, Mike Clark - KG2QM (USA ham)

On two occasions I have been unable to transmit on @ meter FM with
a keyer plugged in. Transmit returned after removing the keyer plug.

Of course I cannot reproduce this.

But then I would expect nothing else.

Bill Mahaffey W6EET
San Diego

-------------------------
Life is too important to be taken seriously.
-- Oscar Wilde

--- In FT817@..., "dog22uk" <j.hilton1@n...> wrote:

HI, have read thru a good few off some off the older threads
regarding opening up the ft817 for wideband tx- ( 5 mhz tx

coverage -

required ) by way off the software mod as opposed to the solder
bridge method, just looking for someone to talk me thru what I

would

have to do to carry out the software mod to a uk supplied ft817

such

as data leads needed ?? standard pc to 817 one as per used in the
commander software ?? and also to confirm as to if there are any
features I would loose with this modification ie.any rx range

loss

or repeater shifts loss, etc ?? only needing the info revelant to

the

offical uk supplied ft817 hence this request. thanks for any help

or

advice on this subject, it is always appreciatted.

regards,
john...

Anyone ?? !! would like just a little re-asurrance before going ahead
with this my first software mod !! by the way, the pc running systmn
this side is windows 98- still okay ?? and wont loose 6 mtrs will
I ?? did I hear someone mention this side effect ?? with this mod to
there own ft817 ??

regards,
john..

Hi Tom and All,

It's very interesting to read this. The same thing happened to me a
couple of weeks ago, again on 70cms as reported below (I was also
using the 817 stock antenna as supplied and routinely used). The
radio had been working fine all day on HF, however when I switched to
my clubs local 70cm repeater, GB3WF, for a chin-wag the radio would
transmit for a few seconds before dropping out completely with a
total loss of any audio or detectable carrier in its absence. This
happened twice during the same QSO with Nigel G0NIG before the
problem simply "disappeared" whereupon we were able to continue our
QSO for a further 15-20 mins....odd....

Now, I too immediately thought that this could be attributed to RF
feedback through the PSU and/or power/system cabling, however my
station configuration is as it always has been for home base use, yet
this is the only time I have experienced this anomaly. Unfortunately
(fortunately!!) I have not been able to reproduce this condition,
then or since then. Switching back to my local 2m repeater, GB3TP,
and simplex frequencies across all the bands, HF, VHF and UHF, proved
to be fine.

Thinking about this, the only set of variables I could even remotely
hazard a guess at was:

(a) The UK was in the middle of the biggest heatwave in recorded
history and my operating area in the roofspace of my house was at a
much higher temperature than usual.

(b) The 817 internal battery had also been on charge, therefore the
radio was already at an elevated operating temperature, in an already
elevated ambient environmental temperature.

Of course, all this may suggest that the 817, suffering under extreme
temperature conditions, simply had enough and cut-out. BUT!!! I also
understand - although I've yet to study the schems in any detail in
this respect - that the 817 does NOT have any designed-in temperature
protection cct. I may be wrong here and would love for someone to
let me know otherwise.

In summary I have, until now at least, concluded that my particular
Tx cut-out on 70cm was due to thermal issues. I know from my own day-
job working on consumer electronics design projects that even though
there may not be a "formal" thermal cut-out cct designed into the
system, the system will nontheless strongly object in whatever way it
can to operating above and beyond its tolerance level, especially the
areas around the core processor(s) and the front-end circuitry.
Often this manifests itself in the strangest of ways, often
unrepeatable when repeatability is neeeded the most!

I'd be interested to hear what the operating conditions were for
those fellow Amateurs who experienced this similar problem, as well
as ruling in/out any changes to the usual station set-up. It may
help in figuring out just what is going on here.

All the best,

73,

Rick M1RAL
G-QRP No: 11229




--- In FT817@..., "Tom Read" <tommyread@h...> wrote:

Hi all,

Last night while operating through a 70cm repeater using my FT817

on 5

watts, mains powered - I pressed the PTT and talked, but when

my "over"

finished it was clear that it had not been transmitted. This

happened a few

more times. The audio was still blanked when I pressed the PTT, so

probably

no problems with the PTT itself, but instead of the SWR showing 2

or 3 bars

as it had been doing, it showed no bars. I tested on 2m, no

problems, then

returned to 70cm where everything was OK again. A few minutes

later the

same thing happened again, but then rectified again after I changed

band and

returned to 70cm. Any suggestions as to what has happened, and

what I need

to do to prevent it / rectify it?

73, Tom

_________________________________________________________________
Find a cheaper internet access deal - choose one to suit you.

I chalk it up to an "anomaly" as this happened to me about a year or more
ago while out hunting. I was on the rubber duck antenna on this band and
also using an MP-1 antenna in the deer blind. I was surprised I couldn't
bring up a strong 440 repeater only a few miles away that I know runs a
preamp and outputs about 75 to 100 watts. I switched to 6 meters on the
duck antenna and could hit a repeater father away, then went to HF for a
while on the MP-1 and then back to 440 and it worked. Never did figure out
what the problem was.
Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD

Hi all,

Last night while operating through a 70cm repeater using my FT817 on 5 watts, mains powered - I pressed the PTT and talked, but when my "over" finished it was clear that it had not been transmitted. This happened a few more times. The audio was still blanked when I pressed the PTT, so probably no problems with the PTT itself, but instead of the SWR showing 2 or 3 bars as it had been doing, it showed no bars. I tested on 2m, no problems, then returned to 70cm where everything was OK again. A few minutes later the same thing happened again, but then rectified again after I changed band and returned to 70cm. Any suggestions as to what has happened, and what I need to do to prevent it / rectify it?

73, Tom

_________________________________________________________________
Find a cheaper internet access deal - choose one to suit you.

If you were using an antenna located very near the radio, (within 5 feet) it
may have been RF feedback. -KC3VO

Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD said:

If the trickle charge (only about 18 ma or so I understand) is not
useful, then why are my batteries topped off if I don't use the rig for
a while but leave it hooked to a large external battery which is
maintained by a Battery Tender Plus unit?

Most manufacturers have recommended for years to use a trickle charge
on the order of the battery capacity divided by 20. For the original
Yaesu pack that works out to 50 mA or 80 mA for the W4RT pack. At 18 mA,
you are fighting the internal self-discharge characteristics of the
battery, and it will take a very long time to charge the battery.
A standard wall-wart slow charger is generally speced at a C/10 rate.

I use the internal W4RT pack mainly for last resort operation after
depleting external battery packs, or mostly for on the couch SWLing.
After depleting, I either use a wall wart Radio Shack RC car charger
(for this type of pack) directly into the W4RT replacement battery cover
jack--or simply set the charge timer on the rig to what I guess to be
the appropriate charge time and leave the rig hooked to my external
battery and charge both with the Battery Tender Plus.

Timed chargers are a poor choice if you care about your battery
longevity at all. You can buy a good charger for the price of one
ruined pack. Nearly all portable electronics that use rechargeable
batteries include the automatic charging circuits now, and the ICs
are cheap. I still wonder why Yaesu didn't bother to include one in
this radio.

Mike W4LNA

If the trickle charge (only about 18 ma or so I understand) is not useful,
then why are my batteries topped off if I don't use the rig for a while but
leave it hooked to a large external battery which is maintained by a Battery
Tender Plus unit?

I use the internal W4RT pack mainly for last resort operation after
depleting external battery packs, or mostly for on the couch SWLing. After
depleting, I either use a wall wart Radio Shack RC car charger (for this
type of pack) directly into the W4RT replacement battery cover jack--or
simply set the charge timer on the rig to what I guess to be the appropriate
charge time and leave the rig hooked to my external battery and charge both
with the Battery Tender Plus.

It seems to me that there is about a half to 1 volt difference in the
internal battery voltage when I leave the rig attached to an external source
versus not attached--so the trickle must be doing something.
Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD

8/28/03 -- Re: SoftJump

Greetings all,

Thanks Peter, VK2IT! I tried the software opening of the FT-817
transmitter, and thought I'd share the process I used and the (outstanding) results it
produced.

After reading about the connector damage and the hairline solder problems
that have been associated with the "solder-blob-mod," it seemed undesirable.
But when the 5 MHz band opened, it was either open the rig or miss out on using
the FT-817 on that band. Here are my notes on using the simple-but-effective
software.

. . . Theory
The FT-817 can be programmed for different countries, personalities, and
characteristics by writing logical values to the rig's EEPROM ("electrically
erasable programmable read-only memory"). When the rig is treated to a master
reset, the rig reads the logical values set by the hardware jumpers, or
"solder blobs." On master reset, the rig writes these values to an "address" on the
EEPROM, namely 0x04 & 0x05. The Softjump software "modification" sets the
same bits that the solder blobs would set, by writing to the same address on the
EEPROM, but without the master reset. Since the values set by Softjump are
the same as those which would be read by the solder blobs, the Softjump
modification results in the same modification to the rig that the solder blob mod
produces. After a Softjump manipulation has been applied, it will take effect
upon the next power-up, and a subsequent master reset will overwrite the
Softjump settings, returning the rig to the solder-blob settings.

. . . DOS Program
The Softjump (DOS) program requires a CAT cable, a computer, and can be
found at:
< >

. . . Settings / Operation
Set CAT to 38400 (Menu #14)
Run " ft.exe " from a DOS window to read (make a note of it) the current
value
Turn ARS off (Menu #1 & Menu #2, see below)
Run " ft F8 BF " to write to the EEPROM
"Please use < F8 BF >," says Peter
< 00 00 > also opens the radio but results in the loss of VHF-Low
(6-meters)

. . . ARS
Repeater offsets (Automatic Repeater Shift) are country specific, so
setting the FT-817 as "a rig without a country" removes the offset function. I
found that the rig began to use a 100 KHz negative offset on every frequency
until I turned the 144 ARS on (Menu #1) and the 430 ARS on (Menu #2) with the ARS
set to 0.00MHz (Menu #42). I then entered the specific repeater offsets as
custom values in memory channels.

. . . Author
Peter, VK2IT (previously VK2JCG). The difference between VK2IT and
VK2JCG is VK2JCG was Peter's call a couple of weeks ago when he was only 5WPM CW,
but now he has passed 10WPM and has upgraded to a full license and callsign
VK2IT.

"Seeya" on 60 Meters.

73 de AE3C / Rick
Pittsburgh
<A href="www.pgh-net.com/ae3c">www.pgh-net.com/ae3c</A>

I need a carrier operated sqelch type signal from the radio to
indicate when a carrier has opened the squelch cct. Is this the SQL?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I'm without any info on this.

exactly!

yo3 fbc



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Some RIB's (Radio Interface Box)-wich is used to programm some radios like
Motorola are similar to CAT cables. A lot of this CAT cables use a little
chip to convert RS 232<>TTL levels. This IC is produced by MAXIM Xorp
(MAX232 and family...). The advantage is that they embedded in this chip a
small DC-DC converter for -12V used for 1 logic RS232 signal.
. Figure what happens when the CAT is connected with the FT817 ?
Yes! A lot of noise!
Personal, I use a home made CAT cable made only with transistors, using the
voltage supplyied by the computer RS 232 connector.
This is the source of the noise raise.

73! de YO3 FBC
Adrian
PS
I apologize for my poor english...



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Hi,

RF feedback is a common problem with the DYC-817. You can replace
the electrolyt condensators with tantal-types and shield the house
with silver fluid. Shielded microphone cords would be helpfull also,
but I don?t know were to get them.
For me a RF choke in the coaxial cable helped a lot with a G5RV
antenna.

73

Martin
DL3MP

Hello:


I received my DYC-817 kit, and finished it yesterday, the kit was
very easy to build except for the tail with the RJ-45. The DYC
worked at the first time and passed the test with the dummy load.
But when I conneted the antenna, sometimes it has RF feedback
problems, are there some mods to cure the problem?


73


Patricio, CE3EOA

: > Further research will be needed. There appears to be switched
: filters for
: > 160, 80, 40, 20/30, 15-17, and 10-12m available on the front panel.
: >
:
: According to a pop-up ad on their web page it has:-
:
: 6 low-pass filter for a maximal reduction of armonic emission
:
: So what's "armonic emission" ?


add an "h" in front of the word, 'enery 'iggins

Thanks

.Pres Waterman.W2PW
GO BILLS!