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It’s been several years since I did any veneer work, and I’m looking for some advice. I’m about to start the doors and drawer front for a large cabinet project (which is largely complete except for the front faces) and one of the options is to start with 19mm plywood and apply a quarter-sawn Wenge veneer. I have the choice between paper-backed veneer with [pick your favorite] glue in a vacuum bag setup, or to go with veneer that has a 3M PSA adhesive layer on the back side. I’ve never worked with the latter, and I see all kinds of new and different glues available now for conventional vacuum bag glue-ups. So I’m looking for suggestions & guidance that is “current day” informed. I am NOT interested in a contact cement approach. This specific project will have a 19mm ApplyPly Premium substrate (12-layer birch with maple face). I would cut the three individual parts ~3mm undersized, apply 5-6mm thick Wenge edge band, then apply the Wenge face veneer, then fit and cut to finial size based on actual cabinet openings. There are two door panels that are 14” wide by 46” tall, and one drawer face that is 28” wide and 15” tall. I can source the quarter-sawn Wenge veneer with either paper or PSA adhesive backing in 4x8 sheets. Since I’ve never worked with PSA-backed veneer, I’m a bit skeptical not sure I want to experiment - so looking for input here. I see various comments that the substrate material should be finished with sealer, varnish, lacquer, etc. prior to applying the PSA-backed product. And if I do decide to use a traditional paper-backed veneer and vacuum bag route, which of the myriad of current glue alternatives is the best choice. I’ve never worked with Wenge veneer either, so if anyone here has, I’d love to get some understanding about crosscutting it after glue-up and what kind of tear-out challenges I might have to contend with. Thanks for your suggestions. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

Hi guys, Started out as a casual woodworker years ago - my wife bought me a Jet lathe and it was a slippery slope from there. A few years ago I decided to give it a go as a business on the side. Had a few good customers and built some nice cabinets, but decided that career isn't right for me. Over the last year as I've wrapped up personal projects I've made the decision to sell most of my equipment. Starting with the big stuff which includes the above mentioned K700 and FB 610. The K700 I purchased late 2021 from Felder with specs as follows: 1 ST 425-70000 Saw unit with double trunnion for saw blade dia. 250-315 mm Cutting height max. 104 mm, saw blade tilt with handwheel 90°-45°, saw spindle dia.30mm speed 4800 rpm 1 ST 424-70019 Cutting width 800 mm with additional table long for K 700 (S) 1 ST 425-10000 Machine Base K 700 Min transport width 980 mm 1 ST 424-30033 Packing STANDARD 2100 x 1200 mm IPPC 1 ST 425-70030 Removable flange for dado blade for max. D- 229 mm x b-20 mm 1 ST 423-70025+1 Circular saw fence with fine adjustment Round bar guide with ruler 1 ST 425-70025 Overhead saw guard (rip capacity 800 mm), hood for 90° and hood for angled cuts are height-adjustable and can be pivoted away fr the working area, saw blade diameter 315mm, Vacuum connector D-80 mm 1 ST 423-70015 Dial for saw blade angle in handwheel 1 ST 430-20069 Sliding table, Table length 2050 mm Anodised 1 ST 424-50033 On and off switch on the sliding table 1 ST 424-11002 1 ST 424-11009 Outrigger table 1300 for cutting length 1300 2500 mm, Table size 950 x 640 mm 424-70024 Crosscut fence 2600 mm (102") with mounting set for for outrigger 1300/1500 1 ST 430-20019 Mitre Indexing System For Outrigger 1 ST 430-20021+1 Crosscut Fence 1100 Mm 1 ST 430-20022 Inch scales for crosscut fence 1100 1 ST 430-20020 Inch scales for crosscut fence 2600 1 ST Inchscale for parallel cutting width 31 1/2" 1 ST 424-40616 Electrical system 1x230V, 60Hz, 3kW S1 CE/US 1 ST 424-40602 60 Hz motor frequency 1 ST 500-33004 USA - Sticker set K3 1 ST POWER1 **** ATTENTION *** The electrical system of this machine is suited for 1x230 V +/-10% (207 V - 253 V) I added Mac's Airtight clamp setup which was a game changer, the Felder outrigger cart and also the Lamb Parallel guides. For just the saw (no Airtight clamps or Lamb guides) I'd like to get $10,500. With all the extras - $14,000. Not willing to part with any of the accessories before the saw is sold. This would be for local pickup unless the buyer arranges shipping. I'm located about 30 miles north of Seattle, WA. 2nd item is the FB 610 which I purchased from Felder late 2023. I was initially looking for the 510, but this was available so I grabbed it. Comes with several Timberwolf blades of various sizes/tpi and a 1" Resaw King that has like 20' of material run through it. Bandsaw config: FB 610 Bandsaw CE model · 3x400V 50 Hz 4.5HP (3.3 kW) S6/40% · with upper and lower precision blade guiding · rack and pinion for upper blade guiding · tilting saw table -5 to 45 dg. · Alu rip fence slot in the table for mitre fence including auto. brake · cutting height 410 mm, · cutting width 575 mm, · indication for blade tension. · Saw blade length from 4521mm to 4571mm · Recommended saw blade length 4546 mm Motor 1x 230 V 60 Hz 3.0 kW X-Life bandsaw guide with ceramic I'd like to get $4000 for the FB 610. Same deal - local pickup or buyer arranges shipping. Thank you!!!

Hello, I am in the middle of selling things and have been taking some items apart to make it easier to pack for shipping. I found this on the ground and am trying to identify what thing it goes to so I can put it in the proper box. It is about 24.8mm x 35.5mm at the outer curves and about 1mm thinck with a small solid round cylinder in the middle. The cylinder must fit into a hole in order to keep it in place. Your help is much appreciated. John

Hello FOG, As some of you are aware, there is a known issue with the Felder short (1100mm) Xcut fence—it does not consistently register at 90 degrees and for many users requires recalibration each time the fence angle is changed or the fence is re-mounted on the slider after removal. David Best has invested meaningful time and effort in researching and developing a solution for this problem. For more details, you can review his findings here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums/72157710682931263/with/48696122378/ David has decided not to produce additional retrofit kits himself. However, he has generously shared detailed diagrams outlining his solution. I have located a local metal shop willing to manufacture a batch of these retrofit kits to the required tolerances. Since I don’t have metal milling equipment myself, I will only be facilitating a single production run—provided we reach the minimum order quantity. Participation & Timeline If you’re interested in purchasing a kit, please let me know. I’ll be collecting registrations over the next few weeks, and if we reach at least 25 units, we will proceed with the production run. My target is to start production in the May-June time frame. Available Retrofit Kits & Pricing Retrofit for a Single Machine ($200–$250 + shipping) Requires you to send in your aluminum block for drilling and modification. Includes a retrofitted T-bushing, installation rod, and necessary screws. Retrofit for Two Machines ($450–$500 + shipping) Includes two T-nuts and two new flip stop that have built in adjustment, in addition to modifications to your aluminum block. I'll have the final price once I'll know the number of participants. If you would like to join, please specify which kit you are going to buy Supporting David Best David declined payment for his work in designing this solution, but I believe we should compensate him for his time and dedication. I encourage anyone purchasing the retrofit kit to consider making a donation. I will personally donate $100 for my kit, plus any profit from this group buy. If you’d like to contribute, I will be collecting donations and forwarding them to David. All of the donations to David get passed along to support people in war-torn communities

I am selling my 2023 Felder K 700 sliding table saw that is in exceptional condition. I ordered it new from Felder DE and have sparingly used it in my home shop in Wyomissing PA (Eastern PA). I thoroughly like the function and quality of this saw, but I am trying to make more space in my small shop, and seem to be using my Felder machines (AD741 & FB510) more to process lumber to get to the bench. I am selling it for $7900. Please reach out to me if you have any additional questions. Thanks, Mark This K700 saw is specked with: - Single Phase 230v 60Hz 4 HP motor - 800mm Rip Fence - 1550mm Sliding Table - 1100mm Crosscut Fence with 1100mm Telescopic Pull-Out - Dado Prep - Two Dial Indicators - Extractor Hose mount - Micro Adjust for rip fence - Eccentric Clamp and Auxiliary EM stop - Three 315mm Blades. Rp, Combo and Fine cut - Sliding width Extension - Mobility kit with Sunnex leveling feet

Hi! I am new to the FOG. I got a new (to me) first generation A3-31. Love it so far. I am having an issue where the guard doesn't hold its height and I noticed when I turn the knob on what I assume to be the tensioner it doesn't do anything. I am guessing the hardware was taken apart and put on wrong, because I can't seem to understand how the current order of nuts and bolts would actually do anything. Does anyone have one of these machines and can take a picture of the proper order of nuts and bolts? Or, better yet, have a parts diagram for the machine? I can't seem to find one anywhere. Thanks! Dan

I have a North State 16" wide belt sander arriving next week and I want it to be mobile in my shop. The sales guy I ordered from said that some guys on FOG had good recommendations on what to use to make it mobile. I'm up for a good setup that gets it mobile but if I had a good option, I would ask that all of the wheels swivel. Having all swivel means I don't have to think as far ahead when I need to move several machines. Thanks.

I have not used my FMT or the super Jig since I've moved to Tucson. I suppose my woodworking is going in a different direction. I would like offers on both or either one separately. Thanks Bill Belanger

I am about to install Aigner extension rails on my Bandsaw and J/P. Probably some stupid and naive question, but I am afraid to make a mistake on my machines. The Aigner spec specify a 9MM holes. I wonder how hard is it to drill through cast iron with a portable drill? Should I make a wooden jig to make sure the holes are drill perpendicular or just try to keep the hand drill straight is good enough? Is cast iron soft enough to drill a 9mm or should I use a pilot hole and increase the hold diameter with multiple drill bits?

Hello FOG moderator, My name is John Ormsby. I used to be a FOG member years ago. I had a KF700S and also a BF7-41 that I split to make it more usable. I closed down the shop around 2014 when my wife and I sold our property, which had a shop. I ended up keeping some Felder and Aigner accessories and some cutterheads in the hopes of getting another Felder down the road. I've since retired and do not have room for another slider and other larger woodworking equipment. I still have some accessories and would like to see if anyone on the FOG might be interested in purchasing some items. I included an attachment with a list of items I would like to try to sell. I can adjust the list with items of your approval. It would probably be better for me to type in the items in the message instead of as an attachment on the FOG for sale section. Thanks much, John BTW, I am in Caldwell, Idaho near Boise. I used to live in the Sacramento area.

Looking to add shaper tools for kitchen, vanity doors and drawer profiles. I have a Felder KF7X with shaper plus 1-1/4 and 30mm spindles. Also have router spindle. Simple, clean profiles is what I'm looking for. I found some in group photos that are nice but don't know what these brands are: /g/felderownersgroup/photo/104482/1246059?p=Created%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C0 and https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums/72157712471494463/. Suggestions much appreciated.

One of the kipp, levers whcih secure the planer bed on my CF731 gave up the ghost. I orered a replacement from Austria . It arrived today and the shaft of the new kipp lever is 1mm thicker in diameteter than mine. I've asked fot a replacement but don't have much hope I am not engineering inclined but my qustion is how difficult would it be to ream out the hole in my machine to suit the new kipp lever. Access is simple so if a drill and bit would do the job i'm good to go, aways assuming I can source a suitable19mm bit. I don't want ro start this and fail as I would end up having to replace he whole handle assembly. So would it be safe to allow a rank amateur at this ? I think my 731 is nearly due for rplacement but at my age thats not going to happen. My recent problem with a non starting planer/thicknesser has been resolved. It required a replacement power relay (Omron Plug In Power Relay, DPDT ) is what the invoice says. I watched the engineer , a man from Venezuela would you believe, carry out the repair, a 5 minute job. Hopefully if it fails again I will be able to fix it my self Thanks for all help given -- Paul Mc Cann

Has anyone come across this issue? I'm out of warranty, so wondering if this is an easy fix, like possibly a cable/connection issue? Thanks Joe

I have been reading the NEC for wiring a motor. The photo of the tag on the side of the machine says 19A at 230V. NEC makes a distinction between FLC and FLA. When I googled FLA for a 7.5HP 3 Ph motor I get 22A. So lets use 22 as FLA. Now NEC wire size is 125% of FLA or 27.5A and you size up so I need wire size for 30A. This all makes sense. Then onto the breaker. NEC says to size for 250% of FLA so the breaker would be 22*2.5=55A so I need a 55A breaker. In reading they point out that this is counter intuitive as the breakers job is to protect the wire and you are over-sizing the breaker. They say the motor must have protection for overload at 115% -125% of FLA and apparently that is what protects the wire. Does a felder F700Z have heaters or other protection in the starter? Am I reading this correctly?