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Hello, I am in the middle of selling things and have been taking some items apart to make it easier to pack for shipping. I found this on the ground and am trying to identify what thing it goes to so I can put it in the proper box. It is about 24.8mm x 35.5mm at the outer curves and about 1mm thinck with a small solid round cylinder in the middle. The cylinder must fit into a hole in order to keep it in place. Your help is much appreciated. John

I am selling my 2023 Felder K 700 sliding table saw that is in exceptional condition. I ordered it new from Felder DE and have sparingly used it in my home shop in Wyomissing PA (Eastern PA). I thoroughly like the function and quality of this saw, but I am trying to make more space in my small shop, and seem to be using my Felder machines (AD741 & FB510) more to process lumber to get to the bench. I am selling it for $7900. Please reach out to me if you have any additional questions. Thanks, Mark This K700 saw is specked with: - Single Phase 230v 60Hz 4 HP motor - 800mm Rip Fence - 1550mm Sliding Table - 1100mm Crosscut Fence with 1100mm Telescopic Pull-Out - Dado Prep - Two Dial Indicators - Extractor Hose mount - Micro Adjust for rip fence - Eccentric Clamp and Auxiliary EM stop - Three 315mm Blades. Rp, Combo and Fine cut - Sliding width Extension - Mobility kit with Sunnex leveling feet

Hi! I am new to the FOG. I got a new (to me) first generation A3-31. Love it so far. I am having an issue where the guard doesn't hold its height and I noticed when I turn the knob on what I assume to be the tensioner it doesn't do anything. I am guessing the hardware was taken apart and put on wrong, because I can't seem to understand how the current order of nuts and bolts would actually do anything. Does anyone have one of these machines and can take a picture of the proper order of nuts and bolts? Or, better yet, have a parts diagram for the machine? I can't seem to find one anywhere. Thanks! Dan

I have a North State 16" wide belt sander arriving next week and I want it to be mobile in my shop. The sales guy I ordered from said that some guys on FOG had good recommendations on what to use to make it mobile. I'm up for a good setup that gets it mobile but if I had a good option, I would ask that all of the wheels swivel. Having all swivel means I don't have to think as far ahead when I need to move several machines. Thanks.

I have not used my FMT or the super Jig since I've moved to Tucson. I suppose my woodworking is going in a different direction. I would like offers on both or either one separately. Thanks Bill Belanger

I am about to install Aigner extension rails on my Bandsaw and J/P. Probably some stupid and naive question, but I am afraid to make a mistake on my machines. The Aigner spec specify a 9MM holes. I wonder how hard is it to drill through cast iron with a portable drill? Should I make a wooden jig to make sure the holes are drill perpendicular or just try to keep the hand drill straight is good enough? Is cast iron soft enough to drill a 9mm or should I use a pilot hole and increase the hold diameter with multiple drill bits?

Hello FOG moderator, My name is John Ormsby. I used to be a FOG member years ago. I had a KF700S and also a BF7-41 that I split to make it more usable. I closed down the shop around 2014 when my wife and I sold our property, which had a shop. I ended up keeping some Felder and Aigner accessories and some cutterheads in the hopes of getting another Felder down the road. I've since retired and do not have room for another slider and other larger woodworking equipment. I still have some accessories and would like to see if anyone on the FOG might be interested in purchasing some items. I included an attachment with a list of items I would like to try to sell. I can adjust the list with items of your approval. It would probably be better for me to type in the items in the message instead of as an attachment on the FOG for sale section. Thanks much, John BTW, I am in Caldwell, Idaho near Boise. I used to live in the Sacramento area.

Looking to add shaper tools for kitchen, vanity doors and drawer profiles. I have a Felder KF7X with shaper plus 1-1/4 and 30mm spindles. Also have router spindle. Simple, clean profiles is what I'm looking for. I found some in group photos that are nice but don't know what these brands are: /g/felderownersgroup/photo/104482/1246059?p=Created%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C0 and https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums/72157712471494463/. Suggestions much appreciated.

One of the kipp, levers whcih secure the planer bed on my CF731 gave up the ghost. I orered a replacement from Austria . It arrived today and the shaft of the new kipp lever is 1mm thicker in diameteter than mine. I've asked fot a replacement but don't have much hope I am not engineering inclined but my qustion is how difficult would it be to ream out the hole in my machine to suit the new kipp lever. Access is simple so if a drill and bit would do the job i'm good to go, aways assuming I can source a suitable19mm bit. I don't want ro start this and fail as I would end up having to replace he whole handle assembly. So would it be safe to allow a rank amateur at this ? I think my 731 is nearly due for rplacement but at my age thats not going to happen. My recent problem with a non starting planer/thicknesser has been resolved. It required a replacement power relay (Omron Plug In Power Relay, DPDT ) is what the invoice says. I watched the engineer , a man from Venezuela would you believe, carry out the repair, a 5 minute job. Hopefully if it fails again I will be able to fix it my self Thanks for all help given -- Paul Mc Cann

Has anyone come across this issue? I'm out of warranty, so wondering if this is an easy fix, like possibly a cable/connection issue? Thanks Joe

As it was mentioned earlier here, Nova’s US arm is going thru chapter 11 reorganization. Appears they liquidated Nova Viking via Grizzly. It cost me $1187 delivered with lift gate charge ($500 off list price). Bit of a let down, I was told by Grizzly CS that extended warranty is included in purchase price but it turned out not to be the case. I was able to assemble the unit myself. Just scooted the column to the edge of the styrofoam so I can attach the base. Then lifted it up. Talking about the base it is not as big or as substantial as my current Delta 17-900. Although, I found it to be stable. For heavy and long metal work, it would be best to secure the base someway. It is not mentioned anywhere but it must have soft start as there is no startup torque induced vibration, something I am used to experiencing on my Delta. Couple of minor issues. Morse taper was scratched. Nova sent a replacement, took longer than I like but there was no resistance. Apparently they are working with a skeleton crew. I could not find a place to attach the chuck key holder other than removing one of the screws that holds the top cover and screwing it in that location. No mention in the manual either. I prefer a simple magnet for this but here is how I mounted it. The manual is decent but not perfect by any means. I will need to come up with a speed chart that I can mount on the DP. My Delta has one on the machine and it is very handy. One other thing, it requires a 3900 J surge protector. This Eaton model set me back $85. I wanted a smaller unit but could not find one, I guess it is not a big deal. Tripp Lite 8 Outlet Industrial Safety Surge Protector Heavy Duty Power Strip, 25ft Cord, Cord Wrap & Hang Holes, Metal, Lifetime Limited Warranty & $100K INSURANCE (TLM825SA) a.co There is no runout to speak of at the taper. Not sure how important this is, but the chuck outside is within 0.001”. Then I chucked a new 15/32 bit and checked runout on shank on the top and it measured +/- 0.001”. I don’t have a precise shaft to indicate down couple of inches to see how accurate it really is but so far so good. I thought that I would need to buy an expensive chuck to get this type of performance, so naturally I am very satisfied. Just drilled the first hole (1/2”) in the plastic. Very nice and crisp hole. It is to install a panel mount fuse holder. The plastic cover could not be easily held perfectly vertical the way it is constructed and I noticed that the laser is slightly off. I will try a flat piece to double check before messing with re-alignment of the laser. HTH anyone, considering to buy a Viking. I assume Voyger is just as good if not better. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

I wonder if someone has experience using the Aigner Sawboy jig? When I had a regular cabinet saw I used to work with a L fence jig for cutting patterns using templates (I find it more accurate then flush trim on a router table) I just found out that Aigner has a product that function as L-fence and I wonder if someone has a familiarity with this product? (or has a better way to pattern cut on a slider)

Gentleman, I have an extra rip fence for a 2019 K940s that I ended up with and am not using. It was working fine but instead of modifying it to add the digital read out I purchased a new one. I believe that the correct part number for this is 431008-029+1D and it is about $1300 new. I am asking 700 + shipping. Please PM or email me if you are interested. I am in the Charlotte NC area if you are on the east coast - -- Michael Marsico

Hi F.O.G, I have a 2007 Kf700 and the electronic rise and fall of the blade has stopped working. When I try to adjust blade height the motor makes a grinding noise but there is no movement. I have contacted Felder who have suggested it needs a new worm gear motor for this. Has anyone had any experience replacing this motor? Could you give any advice? I have a quote for an engineer to come out but it is extremely expensive on top of the part and if I can replace it myself then I would like to. Thanks, Aidan

I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design. My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. By using the shaper hood holes, I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO. My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. However, when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue. One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. With this in mind, I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back. This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence. This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, clamp the material in place, and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well -Rusty