|
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
?
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
?
?
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
?
?
?
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
?
?
?
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
?
?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
?
?
-Rusty
?
|
I’m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I’m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left??? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...> wrote:
? I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
?
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
?
?
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
?
?
?
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
?
?
?
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
?
?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
?
?
-Rusty
?
|
Rusty, simply outstanding. ?I applaud your approach and innovation here. ?Well done. ?I especially like the use of it as a “hook” for setting one end of the material position for a straight-line rip without having to mount the entire parallel fence rig. ?Now my head is spinning on that idea for another iteration of this gizmo.
I had a good chuckle when I read the bit about doing it “without spending any money” since my typical approach is often just the opposite: ?to see how many new and expensive bits I can order to accomplish the job. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 9:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...> wrote:
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
?
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
?
<IMG_0493.JPG>
?
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
?
<IMG_0494.JPG>
?
<IMG_0488.JPG>
?
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
?
<IMG_0483.JPG>
?
<IMG_0482.JPG>
?
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
?
<IMG_0487.JPG>
?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
<IMG_0496.JPG>
?
<IMG_0495.JPG>
?
-Rusty
?
|
It is great to see how creative people can be!
?
Good ?job, Rusty!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
|
Mac, this “gizmo” is a concept David “Lucky” Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut stop on the crosscut fence. ?I? first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in ??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
I’m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I’m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left??? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...> wrote:
? I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
?
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
?
?
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
?
?
?
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
?
?
?
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
?
?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
?
?
-Rusty
?
|
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I’m curious about Mac’s solution. If I’ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to “touch off the blade” on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I’m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I’ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this “gizmo” is a concept David “Lucky” Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I’m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I’m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
|
?Hey Lucky…
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It’s been great and extremely accurate every time. I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
Clean and simple!
Thx again,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...> wrote:
?
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I’m curious about Mac’s solution. If I’ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to “touch off the blade” on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I’m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I’ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this “gizmo” is a concept David “Lucky” Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I’m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I’m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
<copy stick.jpg>
|
Hi Wade:
?
Love it! I’d forgotten about the relief cut underneath but you’re right – that keeps the jig from dragging on the slider when moving from crosscut to parallel jig.
?
Mine is lowly Oak. Yours is a definite upgrade in Maple. I look forward to someone posting a copy stick made of Peruvian Walnut or Cocobolo! LOL
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
?Hey Lucky…
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It’s been great and
extremely accurate every time.
I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...>
wrote:
?
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I’m curious about Mac’s solution. If I’ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to “touch off the blade” on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I’m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I’ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this “gizmo” is a concept David “Lucky” Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I’m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I’m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
|
I guess after seeing Wade‘s post now, I am more confused to me. If I the way, I understood this conversation. It was about making cuts on the left side of the sub blade on the slider to be accurate. If I need to cut something 20 inches wide I want to use fence to the left to make an accurate cut. I take some damage cut it off the length to 20 inches move that 20 inch piece of my stop to the left. Sit next to the stop and touch off on the blade yeah I don’t put a square on it or anything like that I guess I have both accurate enough so I don’t worry about shit like that so is this what we’re talking about is this something totally different? I don’t get it. Confused mac Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 5:32?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...> wrote:
?
Hi Wade:
?
Love it! I’d forgotten about the relief cut underneath but you’re right – that keeps the jig from dragging on the slider when moving from crosscut to parallel jig.
?
Mine is lowly Oak. Yours is a definite upgrade in Maple. I look forward to someone posting a copy stick made of Peruvian Walnut or Cocobolo! LOL
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
?Hey Lucky…
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It’s been great and
extremely accurate every time.
I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...>
wrote:
?
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I’m curious about Mac’s solution. If I’ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to “touch off the blade” on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I’m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I’ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this “gizmo” is a concept David “Lucky” Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I’m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I’m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
|
惭补肠…
It’s just another way to get to the same place.?
???
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 4:16?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? I guess after seeing Wade‘s post now, I am more confused to me. If I the way, I understood this conversation. It was about making cuts on the left side of the sub blade on the slider to be accurate. If I need to cut something 20 inches wide I want to use fence to the left to make an accurate cut. I take some damage cut it off the length to 20 inches move that 20 inch piece of my stop to the left. Sit next to the stop and touch off on the blade yeah I don’t put a square on it or anything like that I guess I have both accurate enough so I don’t worry about shit like that so is this what we’re talking about is this something totally different? I don’t get it. Confused mac Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 27, 2025, at 5:32?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...> wrote:
?
Hi Wade:
?
Love it! I’d forgotten about the relief cut underneath but you’re right – that keeps the jig from dragging on the slider when moving from crosscut to parallel jig.
?
Mine is lowly Oak. Yours is a definite upgrade in Maple. I look forward to someone posting a copy stick made of Peruvian Walnut or Cocobolo! LOL
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
?Hey Lucky…
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It’s been great and
extremely accurate every time.
I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...>
wrote:
?
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I’m curious about Mac’s solution. If I’ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to “touch off the blade” on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I’m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I’ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this “gizmo” is a concept David “Lucky” Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I’m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I’m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
|
Mac, did you read the document I linked to in my previous post starting page 9?
David Best - via mobile phone?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 4:16?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? I guess after seeing Wade‘s post now, I am more confused to me. If I the way, I understood this conversation. It was about making cuts on the left side of the sub blade on the slider to be accurate. If I need to cut something 20 inches wide I want to use fence to the left to make an accurate cut. I take some damage cut it off the length to 20 inches move that 20 inch piece of my stop to the left. Sit next to the stop and touch off on the blade yeah I don’t put a square on it or anything like that I guess I have both accurate enough so I don’t worry about shit like that so is this what we’re talking about is this something totally different? I don’t get it. Confused mac Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 27, 2025, at 5:32?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...> wrote:
?
Hi Wade:
?
Love it! I’d forgotten about the relief cut underneath but you’re right – that keeps the jig from dragging on the slider when moving from crosscut to parallel jig.
?
Mine is lowly Oak. Yours is a definite upgrade in Maple. I look forward to someone posting a copy stick made of Peruvian Walnut or Cocobolo! LOL
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
?Hey Lucky…
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It’s been great and
extremely accurate every time.
I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...>
wrote:
?
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I’m curious about Mac’s solution. If I’ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to “touch off the blade” on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I’m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I’ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this “gizmo” is a concept David “Lucky” Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I’m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I’m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
|
Hi Mac:
?
Sorry Mac. Didn’t mean to confuse.
?
We are talking about the same thing, performing a parallel cut to the left of the blade using a parallel fence like yours or Brian’s or the Felder version. Your method uses an offcut to make the calibration.
The other method under discussion uses a jig. If you have a look at my photo, you can see how the jig is used to make the parallel fence (Brian’s is pictured) exactly the same as the crosscut stop. Hope this helps.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
I guess after seeing Wade‘s post now, I am more confused to me. If I the way, I understood this conversation. It was about making cuts on the left side of the sub blade on the slider to be accurate.
If I need to cut something 20 inches wide I want to use fence to the left to make an accurate cut. I take some damage cut it off the length to 20 inches move that 20 inch piece of my stop to the left. Sit
next to the stop and touch off on the blade yeah I don’t put a square on it or anything like that I guess I have both accurate enough so I don’t worry about shit like that so is this what we’re talking about is this something totally different? I don’t get
it.
Confused mac
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 5:32?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...>
wrote:
?
Hi Wade:
?
Love it! I’d forgotten about the relief cut underneath but you’re right – that keeps the jig from dragging on the slider when moving from crosscut to parallel jig.
?
Mine is lowly Oak. Yours is a definite upgrade in Maple. I look forward to someone posting a copy stick made of Peruvian Walnut or Cocobolo! LOL
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
?Hey Lucky…
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It’s been great and
extremely accurate every time.
I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...>
wrote:
?
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I’m curious about Mac’s solution. If I’ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to “touch off the blade” on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I’m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I’ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this “gizmo” is a concept David “Lucky” Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I’m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I’m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90° cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
|
Apologies Mac.
?
I suspect you have by now gathered what this jig is about thanks to others' explanations. For anyone still scratching their head, ?I referred to this as a "Copy Stick" which is the term others have coined for it. ?It might be better described as a "transfer stick" as its purpose is to exactly transfer the position of the slider crosscut fence stop to the position of the parallel fence stop. ? Some of us find the parallax issue on the Felder parallel fence scale to be annoying. ? This jig allows you to set your slider crosscut fence as usual using the factory scale or a DRO such as I have fitted to mine. ? The new jig is then adjusted to just touch the cross cut fence stop. ? After that you push the slider forward until your parallel fence stop is in line with the copy jig and you slide the parallel fence stop up against the end stop of the copy jig. ? This means no tape measure, pencil lines, or the reading of two different scales is required to make perfect parallel rips on the left side of the blade.
?
This type of accuracy is certainly not always necessary. ? However, ?when I build kitchens or jobs with lots of cabinets in a run, I want all my box sides to be exactly the same height and width. ?This helps immensely with installations. ? Sometimes I build kitchen boxes over a period of many weeks. ? If I set my crosscut DRO to 23.758" for the first batch, ?and use the new jig to make parallel rips, ?I can repeat this process 4 weeks later and know that my cabinets & face frames will line up perfectly regardless of whether it is a run of 3 cabs or 12.
?
Now that I have David's head "spinning", ?I think we can look forward to yet another improved version!
?
Thanks for the comments and inspiration everyone.
?
-Rusty
?
?
|
To add to what Rusty said about accuracy, what drove me to what I originally called a "Parallel Fence Setting Tool” (i.e. “Copy Stick”) I described as follows: ?
"When I’m building kitchen cabinets, half a millimeter difference in width of a cabinet side/top/bottom can drive me crazy. Imagine cutting up the panels for a cabinet and discovering that the side panels have a 0.5mm difference from one end to the other. ?That difference means the error will appear either at the front of the cabinet where the sides join the top or bottom, or the error will be at the back of the cabinet, making it impossible to get a tight seam between the back panel and the perimeter of the cabinet case all around.”
I do find it useful, especially when trying to achieve parallel panel edges on long and narrow segments like the sides of a kitchen upper, or a bookcase and wanting to work to the left of the blade instead of doing a conventional rip fence guided operation. ?Thank you again Lucky for the idea and inspiration. ?
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best 
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 5:13?PM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...> wrote:
This type of accuracy is certainly not always necessary. ? However, ?when I build kitchens or jobs with lots of cabinets in a run, I want all my box sides to be?exactly?the same height and width. ?This helps immensely with installations. ? Sometimes I build kitchen boxes over a period of many weeks. ? If I set my crosscut DRO to 23.758" for the first batch, ?and use the new jig to make parallel rips, ?I can repeat this process 4 weeks later and know that my cabinets & face frames will line up perfectly regardless of whether it is a run of 3 cabs or 12.
|
Rusty and two David thanksfor sharing your great ideas. Had a little bit of time at coffee this morning to review your messages and now I see exactly what you’re up to and of course, fortunately for me if I decide to make one of these cool little jjigs got so much junk in my shop that will not be a problem finding the parts I need I know how you feel about that rusty unfortunately I won’t get any new space. On my SCI panel saw which is also has a shaper on it I drilled holes in it to accept the base off of my Panhans shaper so I can copy your design ?with your permission to attach like you did to the shaper holes now that I’m using that Panhans fence on my standalone, Gomad shaper . Unconfussed good way to start out Monday Best mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:00?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? To add to what Rusty said about accuracy, what drove me to what I originally called a "Parallel Fence Setting Tool” (i.e. “Copy Stick”) I described as follows: ?
"When I’m building kitchen cabinets, half a millimeter difference in width of a cabinet side/top/bottom can drive me crazy. Imagine cutting up the panels for a cabinet and discovering that the side panels have a 0.5mm difference from one end to the other. ?That difference means the error will appear either at the front of the cabinet where the sides join the top or bottom, or the error will be at the back of the cabinet, making it impossible to get a tight seam between the back panel and the perimeter of the cabinet case all around.”
I do find it useful, especially when trying to achieve parallel panel edges on long and narrow segments like the sides of a kitchen upper, or a bookcase and wanting to work to the left of the blade instead of doing a conventional rip fence guided operation. ?Thank you again Lucky for the idea and inspiration. ?
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best <Dial Indicator Right Accuracy Matters Above.png>
On Apr 27, 2025, at 5:13?PM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...> wrote:
This type of accuracy is certainly not always necessary. ? However, ?when I build kitchens or jobs with lots of cabinets in a run, I want all my box sides to be?exactly?the same height and width. ?This helps immensely with installations. ? Sometimes I build kitchen boxes over a period of many weeks. ? If I set my crosscut DRO to 23.758" for the first batch, ?and use the new jig to make parallel rips, ?I can repeat this process 4 weeks later and know that my cabinets & face frames will line up perfectly regardless of whether it is a run of 3 cabs or 12.
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David P. Best
David Luckensmeyer
