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Well, it will be 114mm minus whatever the aluminum extrusion width is. We don’t care about the cast surface under where the aluminum bolts on, we can’t count on the casting being as accurate as the machined surface.
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-1mm, it overhangs a little - but don’t really need to that extreme now do we? On Feb 10, 2022, at 8:02 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? I think that is measured to the face of the table casting that is machined. So subtract the thickness of the aluminum channel and measure to it.
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I get it Brian, i was poking fun at all the crazy precision?
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On Feb 10, 2022, at 8:12 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Well, it will be 114mm minus whatever the aluminum extrusion width is. We don’t care about the cast surface under where the aluminum bolts on, we can’t count on the casting being as accurate as the machined surface.
-1mm, it overhangs a little - but don’t really need to that extreme now do we? On Feb 10, 2022, at 8:02 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? I think that is measured to the face of the table casting that is machined. So subtract the thickness of the aluminum channel and measure to it.
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I know, I was just making sure that everybody understands to not measure for parallel from the cast surface. That will effect the toe out of the whole fence assembly.
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I get it Brian, i was poking fun at all the crazy precision? On Feb 10, 2022, at 8:12 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Well, it will be 114mm minus whatever the aluminum extrusion width is. We don’t care about the cast surface under where the aluminum bolts on, we can’t count on the casting being as accurate as the machined surface.
-1mm, it overhangs a little - but don’t really need to that extreme now do we? On Feb 10, 2022, at 8:02 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? I think that is measured to the face of the table casting that is machined. So subtract the thickness of the aluminum channel and measure to it.
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Okay, mines at about 45mm, once I relocate those washers I should be right there. ?
Thank You,
Wade
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On Feb 10, 2022, at 4:37 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
?
40 mm.
James
Ah…okay.? Would you know how far the bar is sitting from that front face of the casting??
Thx,
Wade ? Wade,
My KF700sp was delivered with everything installed (overhead dust collection, steel extension table, bar/rip fence) except the sliding table because I ordered the Felder commission service. But I adjusted the bar later because it was not 100% parallel to the cast iron table.
James James,
Did your two threads, going into the cast part of the machine, come preinstalled?
Thx,
Wade ? Brian,
You are right. The bar must be installed properly, and keeps the equal distance to the stainless steel strip, so DRO will work.
James On Thu, Feb 10, 2022 at 6:58 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: I suspicion the washers go in the inside of the cast iron table and those shouldered nuts slip into counterbores. This would make sure the bar is mounted level to the cast iron top and doesn’t droop like others are saying. Again, a parts list should confirm.
Brian is right. The large diameter washer should be used on the opposite side, the bar must be parallel to the cast iron table.
<IMG_1910.JPG>
James On Thu, Feb 10, 2022 at 6:30 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: I think the large diameter washers next to the cast iron table should not be there…. and you’ll need to hang a square down over the table edge and make sure that the bar is parallel to the cast table, or alternatively the aluminum extrusion that holds the scale.
? ? David,
I’m going to disassemble the whole support bar and start over.? I see the difference your pointing out.? The two mounting threads that attach to the machine chassis, from the bar, were installed when the saw arrived and where snug down really good. Instruction manual was pretty basic here.? So I figured I’d better not touch them, maybe they were set at the factory, just not sure.? But I think I’ll need to loosen them up and maybe I can thread the rod into the bar further.? The picture I’ve attached, looking down on these two threaded rods, shows the right side is clearly out further from the machine chassis.? And if I can get those in further, we’ll then this gives me more thread on the other two that attach to the extension table.? Are there any specs that you can recall on how far from the machine body the support bar should sit?
Here is video attached as well showing the rip fence assembly bouncing from one end to the other, if moved swiftly.? Make sure to have the sound on when viewing too.
Thank You,
Wade
?That round bar is not installed correctly.? It should be closer to the machine chassis.? Have a look at these two photos.? Compare your gap in the first photo (green arrow), to the gap in the second photo (correctly positioned).
David Best
Sorry about that. Meant to attach these pics too.? And good thought Mark, I’ll send a video.?
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>
On Feb 10, 2022, at 7:36 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?Pictures? Hard to make any comments based on your description.
Hey FOG…
I’m not sure if I’m the only one thinking this, but did Felder cheap out on the rip fence for my K 700 S?? I’m a bit disappointed in the some?of action in the rip fence.? When I want to bring the fence over from the far side of the table (1200mm rip capacity) closer to the blade, and I want to move it in a fairly quick fashion, the fence wants to bounce a bit as it’s being moved across the table.? A bit annoying.? Is the support wheel out of round?? Just not sure.? Then when installing the rip fence support bar, the mounting threads to the table extension are just barely long enough to?make the assembly.? And now I was just making the calibration for the scale on the rip fence and I’m getting accurate measurements off the scale at 0-20” then after that, as I get further away from the blade the scale is getting off.? Is there a bend in the support bar that might be kicking the fence further away from the blade?? Any thoughts? Thx, Wade
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Man, I’m feeling like I did not get all of necessary paperwork with my machine. ?I just went though all of my papers I have, and there’s nothing about that bar like you show. ?
Missing Support bar specs……shipping bolts for the saw that need to be removed……, what’s next. ?
Thank you for the information Mark,
Wade
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On Feb 10, 2022, at 4:47 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Also BTW did you contact Felder for the proper location of the bar? I haven’t read all the responses but as i said the spec is somewhere and now that I am home that somewhere is in the inspection sheets that came with your saw, min is on sheet 4 (or Seite 4 if you prefer) and is 114mm from edge of cast to outside of bar, yours may be different this is k940 see attached pic… On Feb 10, 2022, at 7:41 PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? Nice Mark! ?The old “persuasion” method. ???
My approach was fairly easy too. ?I said send me a damn square one, I just dropped 20K on this B_ _ ch! ??
All in all, they actually have been really responsive so far. ?Been really good at answering questions and they have called me back three times now just to check in. ?Who does that?! ? Phillip has been exceptional over at Tech support too.
Thx,
Wade
On Feb 10, 2022, at 4:32 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? My flips were also out of square (the non dro on the k700) I ended up “persuading” them into squareness after giving up on Felder to replace them.? On Feb 10, 2022, at 6:56 PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? ? ? I guess I get Tech involved again to find out where this bar is to be located.?
- Side note - Felder just sent me a brand new flip stop for the short crosscut table, because I discovered it wasn’t square to the fence. ?But get this, is can be out of square and still be within their tolerance. ?Is can be up to .25mm out of square and it’s not a warranty issue. ?Luckily mine was .33mm plus. ?They asked me to send them a video showing the amount it was out, with the use of my feeler gauges. ?Here’s an attachment that they send me to follow. ?And they said to perform step number 2. ?
Thx,
Wade
On Feb 10, 2022, at 3:38 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Mike,
I do not think that large stand-off is a good thing. I have similar standoff as David shows. That bar is heavy and I was kinda concerned that the right side two bolts go to the steel extension tables.
As I write this it sounds crazy, but I know that bar sagged once it was only attached to the cast iron (left side 2 bolts). Not sure if the bolt was giving or what. I recall supporting the right end of the bar where I was satisfied that the bar is at same level as the saw table before attaching the two right side bolts. This was on K975.
I am not sure if the large standoff will stress the bolts but it sure is not helping.
Imran
On Feb 10, 2022, at 6:19 PM, Mike D. via groups.io <mjcdorsam@...> wrote:
? Wade:
I've attached two photos of my K700S rip fence guide rail, nearest the blade. From what I can tell from your photos, the guide rail position looks similar to mine. I agree that the stand-off (of the guide rail from the saw) is large - the key is whether the stand-off distance is identical for all attachment points. I can't comment on whether your fence is in-round or otherwise.
I'm not a fan of Felder's engineering on this point. Anytime you have the rip fence close to the blade, and the handle clamped down, access to the height adjustment handle and lockdown lever is awkward.?
Take Care.
Mike D.
On Thursday, February 10, 2022, 06:00:08 PM EST, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
David,
Are you saying the gap bea On Feb 10, 2022, at 8:46 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
?
That round bar is not installed correctly. ?It should be closer to the machine chassis. ?Have a look at these two photos. ?Compare your gap in the first photo (green arrow), to the gap in the second photo (correctly positioned).
Sorry about that. Meant to attach these pics too. ?And good thought Mark, I’ll send a video.?
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>
On Feb 10, 2022, at 7:36 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?
Pictures? Hard to make any comments based on your description.
Hey FOG…
I’m not sure if I’m the only one thinking this, but did Felder cheap out on the rip fence for my K 700 S? ?I’m a bit disappointed in the some?of action in the rip fence. ?When I want to bring the fence over from the far side of the table (1200mm rip capacity) closer to the blade, and I want to move it in a fairly quick fashion, the fence wants to bounce a bit as it’s being moved across the table. ?A bit annoying. ?Is the support wheel out of round? ?Just not sure. ?Then when installing the rip fence support bar, the mounting threads to the table extension are just barely long enough to?make the assembly. ?And now I was just making the calibration for the scale on the rip fence and I’m getting accurate measurements off the scale at 0-20” then after that, as I get further away from the blade the scale is getting off. ?Is there a bend in the support bar that might be kicking the fence further away from the blade? ?Any thoughts? Thx, Wade
-- Mike D. Annapolis, MD AD951; K700S; N4400
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Good call Brian, I’ll remember that!
Wade
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On Feb 10, 2022, at 4:56 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?Felder’s direction have always left a lot to be desired, but… their exploded parts drawings are pretty much spot on. I always resort to those when there is a question.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Feb 10, 2022, at 5:09 PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
Yep, I stand corrected Brian, your right on! I missed the other part of this exploded view showing the washer behind the cast and the indicator line looks like it’s showing the washers behind the steel extension table too. Picture attached.
Thx,
Wade
<image0.jpeg>
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Man, I’m feeling like I did not get all of necessary paperwork with my machine. ?I just went though all of my papers I have, and there’s nothing about that bar like you show. ?
Missing Support bar specs……shipping bolts for the saw that need to be removed……, what’s next.?
I’m gathering you decided NOT to have Felder commission your machine. ? The dilemmas you now face might help understand why I wrote the Felder Survival Guide back in 2004. ?Culturally, Felder does not place high value on documenting the details for the customer. ?Further evidence of this is their elimination of configuration detail from their web site, lack of published PDF documentation in some kind of user portal, or instruction videos. ?They love to pour communication energy into photos and videos that sell equipment, but have alway been severely lacking when it comes to use, installation, alignment, problem diagnosis, etc. ?It’s gotten batter, but far from ideal
Once you get your rip fence bar installed, you want to adjust it so the rip fence has slight toe-out to the saw blade. ?You make that adjustment by ?securing the stud closest to the slider, loosen all the others, and use the one farthest from the slider that attaches to the extension table to get the bar angle correct using this technique to check toe-out, following the verbiage below the photo.
This is the technique I use for checking the toe-out of the rip fence. ? Using a precision ground Johnson level (which has machined parallel surfaces), or an extra section of the rip fence extrusion (if you have a spare), or a straight edge or some other flat aluminum extrusion with parallel faces, lightly clamp it to a partially elevated saw blade as shown in the photo. ? This presents an "averaged" surface representing the saw blade position against which you can indicate relative to the rip fence. ?By moving the indicator along the rip fence, keeping it against the rip fence as you move the indicator, you can visually see the toe-out by observing the change in the dial indicator reading.?
Position the dial indicator as shown in the photo and move the rip fence toward the saw blade until the indicator hand starts to move, then lock the rip fence position and zero out the dial by rotating the bezel. ? Move the indicator along the rip fence, keeping it against the rip fence and observe the indicator reading. ? If the indicator moves clockwise, the fence is angled inward toward the blade, called toe-in, which is a dangerous condition that can cause kick-back, and will produce a burned or torn edge on the stock cut during a ripping operation. ? If the indicator hand moves counterclockwise as you move it forward against the fence, the fence is angled away from the blade as material is being cut - called toe-out. ? Ideally, the rip fence is properly aligned when the dial indicator shows 0.002 to 0.004 inches of toe-out over approximately a 10-inch distance.
If you don’t have a Oneway dial indicator base like the one shown above, you can make your own. ?Here are images extracted from David (“Lucky”) Luckensmeye’s excellent article in Australian Wood Review that illustrates the indicator holder he made (fancy burl hardwood).
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Just to give respect where respect is earned and due, David helped me generously with that article. It is far better than it would have been otherwise. All errors remain mine, yada yada.
Thanks David Best!
Warm regards, Lucky
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Man, I’m feeling like I did not get all of necessary paperwork with my machine. ?I just went though all of my papers I have, and there’s nothing about that bar like you show. ?
Missing Support bar specs……shipping bolts for the saw that need to be removed……, what’s next.?
I’m gathering you decided NOT to have Felder commission your machine. ? The dilemmas you now face might help understand why I wrote the Felder Survival Guide back in 2004. ?Culturally, Felder does not place high value on documenting the details for the customer. ?Further evidence of this is their elimination of configuration detail from their web site, lack of published PDF documentation in some kind of user portal, or instruction videos. ?They love to pour communication energy into photos and videos that sell equipment, but have alway been severely lacking when it comes to use, installation, alignment, problem diagnosis, etc. ?It’s gotten batter, but far from ideal
Once you get your rip fence bar installed, you want to adjust it so the rip fence has slight toe-out to the saw blade. ?You make that adjustment by ?securing the stud closest to the slider, loosen all the others, and use the one farthest from the slider that attaches to the extension table to get the bar angle correct using this technique to check toe-out, following the verbiage below the photo.
<screenshot_5457.jpeg>
This is the technique I use for checking the toe-out of the rip fence. ? Using a precision ground Johnson level (which has machined parallel surfaces), or an extra section of the rip fence extrusion (if you have a spare), or a straight edge or some other flat aluminum extrusion with parallel faces, lightly clamp it to a partially elevated saw blade as shown in the photo. ? This presents an "averaged" surface representing the saw blade position against which you can indicate relative to the rip fence. ?By moving the indicator along the rip fence, keeping it against the rip fence as you move the indicator, you can visually see the toe-out by observing the change in the dial indicator reading.?
Position the dial indicator as shown in the photo and move the rip fence toward the saw blade until the indicator hand starts to move, then lock the rip fence position and zero out the dial by rotating the bezel. ? Move the indicator along the rip fence, keeping it against the rip fence and observe the indicator reading. ? If the indicator moves clockwise, the fence is angled inward toward the blade, called toe-in, which is a dangerous condition that can cause kick-back, and will produce a burned or torn edge on the stock cut during a ripping operation. ? If the indicator hand moves counterclockwise as you move it forward against the fence, the fence is angled away from the blade as material is being cut - called toe-out. ? Ideally, the rip fence is properly aligned when the dial indicator shows 0.002 to 0.004 inches of toe-out over approximately a 10-inch distance.
If you don’t have a Oneway dial indicator base like the one shown above, you can make your own. ?Here are images extracted from David (“Lucky”) Luckensmeye’s excellent article in Australian Wood Review that illustrates the indicator holder he made (fancy burl hardwood).
<Photo 17 copy.jpeg>
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Wade, I feel your pain on the lack of documentation. ?Maybe buying some merch will at least put you in the correct frame of mind: ??
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Man, I’m feeling like I did not get all of necessary paperwork with my machine. ?I just went though all of my papers I have, and there’s nothing about that bar like you show. ?
Missing Support bar specs……shipping bolts for the saw that need to be removed……, what’s next. ?
Thank you for the information Mark,
Wade ? Also BTW did you contact Felder for the proper location of the bar? I haven’t read all the responses but as i said the spec is somewhere and now that I am home that somewhere is in the inspection sheets that came with your saw, min is on sheet 4 (or Seite 4 if you prefer) and is 114mm from edge of cast to outside of bar, yours may be different this is k940 see attached pic… ? Nice Mark! ?The old “persuasion” method. ???
My approach was fairly easy too. ?I said send me a damn square one, I just dropped 20K on this B_ _ ch! ??
All in all, they actually have been really responsive so far. ?Been really good at answering questions and they have called me back three times now just to check in. ?Who does that?! ? Phillip has been exceptional over at Tech support too.
Thx,
Wade
? My flips were also out of square (the non dro on the k700) I ended up “persuading” them into squareness after giving up on Felder to replace them.? ? ? ? I guess I get Tech involved again to find out where this bar is to be located.?
- Side note - Felder just sent me a brand new flip stop for the short crosscut table, because I discovered it wasn’t square to the fence. ?But get this, is can be out of square and still be within their tolerance. ?Is can be up to .25mm out of square and it’s not a warranty issue. ?Luckily mine was .33mm plus. ?They asked me to send them a video showing the amount it was out, with the use of my feeler gauges. ?Here’s an attachment that they send me to follow. ?And they said to perform step number 2. ?
Thx,
Wade
? Mike,
I do not think that large stand-off is a good thing. I have similar standoff as David shows. That bar is heavy and I was kinda concerned that the right side two bolts go to the steel extension tables.
As I write this it sounds crazy, but I know that bar sagged once it was only attached to the cast iron (left side 2 bolts). Not sure if the bolt was giving or what. I recall supporting the right end of the bar where I was satisfied that the bar is at same level as the saw table before attaching the two right side bolts. This was on K975.
I am not sure if the large standoff will stress the bolts but it sure is not helping.
Imran ? Wade:
I've attached two photos of my K700S rip fence guide rail, nearest the blade. From what I can tell from your photos, the guide rail position looks similar to mine. I agree that the stand-off (of the guide rail from the saw) is large - the key is whether the stand-off distance is identical for all attachment points. I can't comment on whether your fence is in-round or otherwise.
I'm not a fan of Felder's engineering on this point. Anytime you have the rip fence close to the blade, and the handle clamped down, access to the height adjustment handle and lockdown lever is awkward.?
Take Care.
Mike D.
On Thursday, February 10, 2022, 06:00:08 PM EST, Wade Dees < wjdsignature@...> wrote:
David,
Are you saying the gap bea ?
That round bar is not installed correctly. ?It should be closer to the machine chassis. ?Have a look at these two photos. ?Compare your gap in the first photo (green arrow), to the gap in the second photo (correctly positioned).
Sorry about that. Meant to attach these pics too. ?And good thought Mark, I’ll send a video.?
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>
On Feb 10, 2022, at 7:36 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?
Pictures? Hard to make any comments based on your description.
Hey FOG…
I’m not sure if I’m the only one thinking this, but did Felder cheap out on the rip fence for my K 700 S? ?I’m a bit disappointed in the some?of action in the rip fence. ?When I want to bring the fence over from the far side of the table (1200mm rip capacity) closer to the blade, and I want to move it in a fairly quick fashion, the fence wants to bounce a bit as it’s being moved across the table. ?A bit annoying. ?Is the support wheel out of round? ?Just not sure. ?Then when installing the rip fence support bar, the mounting threads to the table extension are just barely long enough to?make the assembly. ?And now I was just making the calibration for the scale on the rip fence and I’m getting accurate measurements off the scale at 0-20” then after that, as I get further away from the blade the scale is getting off. ?Is there a bend in the support bar that might be kicking the fence further away from the blade? ?Any thoughts? Thx, Wade
-- Mike D. Annapolis, MD AD951; K700S; N4400
|
Thank you David, I’m going to break this down tomorrow and follow your guide to a tee.
I may pick up a shirt and mug to go along with this the new hat my wife picked up for me. See attached.
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On Feb 10, 2022, at 7:14 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Wade, I feel your pain on the lack of documentation. ?Maybe buying some merch will at least put you in the correct frame of mind: ??
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
Man, I’m feeling like I did not get all of necessary paperwork with my machine. ?I just went though all of my papers I have, and there’s nothing about that bar like you show. ?
Missing Support bar specs……shipping bolts for the saw that need to be removed……, what’s next. ?
Thank you for the information Mark,
Wade ? Also BTW did you contact Felder for the proper location of the bar? I haven’t read all the responses but as i said the spec is somewhere and now that I am home that somewhere is in the inspection sheets that came with your saw, min is on sheet 4 (or Seite 4 if you prefer) and is 114mm from edge of cast to outside of bar, yours may be different this is k940 see attached pic… ? Nice Mark! ?The old “persuasion” method. ???
My approach was fairly easy too. ?I said send me a damn square one, I just dropped 20K on this B_ _ ch! ??
All in all, they actually have been really responsive so far. ?Been really good at answering questions and they have called me back three times now just to check in. ?Who does that?! ? Phillip has been exceptional over at Tech support too.
Thx,
Wade
? My flips were also out of square (the non dro on the k700) I ended up “persuading” them into squareness after giving up on Felder to replace them.? ? ? ? I guess I get Tech involved again to find out where this bar is to be located.?
- Side note - Felder just sent me a brand new flip stop for the short crosscut table, because I discovered it wasn’t square to the fence. ?But get this, is can be out of square and still be within their tolerance. ?Is can be up to .25mm out of square and it’s not a warranty issue. ?Luckily mine was .33mm plus. ?They asked me to send them a video showing the amount it was out, with the use of my feeler gauges. ?Here’s an attachment that they send me to follow. ?And they said to perform step number 2. ?
Thx,
Wade
? Mike,
I do not think that large stand-off is a good thing. I have similar standoff as David shows. That bar is heavy and I was kinda concerned that the right side two bolts go to the steel extension tables.
As I write this it sounds crazy, but I know that bar sagged once it was only attached to the cast iron (left side 2 bolts). Not sure if the bolt was giving or what. I recall supporting the right end of the bar where I was satisfied that the bar is at same level as the saw table before attaching the two right side bolts. This was on K975.
I am not sure if the large standoff will stress the bolts but it sure is not helping.
Imran ? Wade:
I've attached two photos of my K700S rip fence guide rail, nearest the blade. From what I can tell from your photos, the guide rail position looks similar to mine. I agree that the stand-off (of the guide rail from the saw) is large - the key is whether the stand-off distance is identical for all attachment points. I can't comment on whether your fence is in-round or otherwise.
I'm not a fan of Felder's engineering on this point. Anytime you have the rip fence close to the blade, and the handle clamped down, access to the height adjustment handle and lockdown lever is awkward.?
Take Care.
Mike D.
On Thursday, February 10, 2022, 06:00:08 PM EST, Wade Dees < wjdsignature@...> wrote:
David,
Are you saying the gap bea ?
That round bar is not installed correctly. ?It should be closer to the machine chassis. ?Have a look at these two photos. ?Compare your gap in the first photo (green arrow), to the gap in the second photo (correctly positioned).
Sorry about that. Meant to attach these pics too. ?And good thought Mark, I’ll send a video.?
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>
On Feb 10, 2022, at 7:36 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?
Pictures? Hard to make any comments based on your description.
Hey FOG…
I’m not sure if I’m the only one thinking this, but did Felder cheap out on the rip fence for my K 700 S? ?I’m a bit disappointed in the some?of action in the rip fence. ?When I want to bring the fence over from the far side of the table (1200mm rip capacity) closer to the blade, and I want to move it in a fairly quick fashion, the fence wants to bounce a bit as it’s being moved across the table. ?A bit annoying. ?Is the support wheel out of round? ?Just not sure. ?Then when installing the rip fence support bar, the mounting threads to the table extension are just barely long enough to?make the assembly. ?And now I was just making the calibration for the scale on the rip fence and I’m getting accurate measurements off the scale at 0-20” then after that, as I get further away from the blade the scale is getting off. ?Is there a bend in the support bar that might be kicking the fence further away from the blade? ?Any thoughts? Thx, Wade
-- Mike D. Annapolis, MD AD951; K700S; N4400
|
Brian,
?????? I have the exact same "V" pad setup on my older k 700 s.? I bought it used and the fence was toed out way too much from the blade. I used paper shims on the left pad to get the fence rod in a better position. I guess your blade and fence were in alignment from the factory? Just wondering if you've had any problems or had to adjust it? For me it was just one more reason to do most of my ripping to the left of the blade. Tom Ruth
|
I am certainly disappointed by this discussion of the fence, and hope the fence on my K700S is good. One of the things I liked about the K700S is the fence, which looks so much like the Delta Unifence I have used for so many years. The Unifence used a large, rigid extrusion for the guide bar, and the head is adjustable so the fence can easily be aligned with the blade.
In a few weeks I will be able to actually see the differences.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Repositioning the rip fence is my only disappointment with the K700S. In my case I hear one thud with movement when I transition between the cast top and steel support which are co-planer but the top has a rolled edge which creates a slight gap the wheel rides over. In your video I hear the same thud 5x you definitely should be able to get rid of that.
Jay
Cleveland
|
Hi Jay,
Yeah it’s really bad when I slide it across. ?Very disappointing for what these things cost. ?I keep looking at the construction of the underside with the support wheel and I don’t see how this could be fixed. Even after I completely reinstall my support bar today and adjust my toe out. ?I’ll ask Felder Tech about it as well. ?
Thx,
Wade
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Show quoted text
On Feb 11, 2022, at 7:03 AM, jbowen@... wrote:
?Repositioning the rip fence is my only disappointment with the K700S. In my case I hear one thud with movement when I transition between the cast top and steel support which are co-planer but the top has a rolled edge which creates a slight gap the wheel rides over. In your video I hear the same thud 5x you definitely should be able to get rid of that.
Jay
Cleveland
|
If you're using the rip fence for much other than a bump stop in tandem with the crosscut fence you're not using your slider right! Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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I had this bumpy issue too on the k700, i was able to get it pretty close after spending a lot of time. The k940 suffers this issue much less, the sheet steel table is beefier les twist in it and it has fine adjustment as it connects to the cast different, it not just bolted. The k700 is fine but the k940 is a pretty big bump in small details like this all over.
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On Feb 11, 2022, at 10:43 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? If you're using the rip fence for much other than a bump stop in tandem with the crosscut fence you're not using your slider right! Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Yes, I get that sound only during the transition between the cast top and the steel top.
James
On Fri, Feb 11, 2022 at 10:03 AM < jbowen@...> wrote: Repositioning the rip fence is my only disappointment with the K700S. In my case I hear one thud with movement when I transition between the cast top and steel support which are co-planer but the top has a rolled edge which creates a slight gap the wheel rides over. In your video I hear the same thud 5x you definitely should be able to get rid of that.
Jay
Cleveland
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Wade,
If you still get that thud more than once, maybe the nylon support wheel is not round ???
James
Hi Jay,
Yeah it’s really bad when I slide it across.? Very disappointing for what these things cost.? I keep looking at the construction of the underside with the support wheel and I don’t see how this could be fixed. Even after I completely reinstall my support bar today and adjust my toe out.? I’ll ask Felder Tech about it as well. ?
Thx,
Wade ?Repositioning the rip fence is my only disappointment with the K700S. In my case I hear one thud with movement when I transition between the cast top and steel support which are co-planer but the top has a rolled edge which creates a slight gap the wheel rides over. In your video I hear the same thud 5x you definitely should be able to get rid of that.
Jay
Cleveland
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My K975 has set screws (I think that’s what Mark Kessler K940 might be like) to adjust the height of sheet metal extension table. I got it perfectly level with the cast iron. Still has the rolled edge but it has not been an issue.
Imran
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On Feb 11, 2022, at 10:52 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? I had this bumpy issue too on the k700, i was able to get it pretty close after spending a lot of time. The k940 suffers this issue much less, the sheet steel table is beefier les twist in it and it has fine adjustment as it connects to the cast different, it not just bolted. The k700 is fine but the k940 is a pretty big bump in small details like this all over. On Feb 11, 2022, at 10:43 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? If you're using the rip fence for much other than a bump stop in tandem with the crosscut fence you're not using your slider right! Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
My older machine has a plastic pad with a large radius on the bottom rather than a wheel. Wonder if they could mount two rollers in tandem so that why one is over the table joint the other supports. You would never have the thump-thump.
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Hi Jay,
Yeah it’s really bad when I slide it across. ?Very disappointing for what these things cost. ?I keep looking at the construction of the underside with the support wheel and I don’t see how this could be fixed. Even after I completely reinstall my support bar today and adjust my toe out. ?I’ll ask Felder Tech about it as well. ?
Thx,
Wade ?Repositioning the rip fence is my only disappointment with the K700S. In my case I hear one thud with movement when I transition between the cast top and steel support which are co-planer but the top has a rolled edge which creates a slight gap the wheel rides over. In your video I hear the same thud 5x you definitely should be able to get rid of that.
Jay
Cleveland
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David P. Best
David Luckensmeyer
Jason Holtz
imran