Just to give respect where respect is earned and due, David helped me generously with that article. It is far better than it would have been otherwise. All errors remain mine, yada yada.
Thanks David Best!
Warm regards,
Lucky
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Man, I¡¯m feeling like I did not get all of necessary paperwork with my machine. ?I just went though all of my papers I have, and there¡¯s nothing about that bar like you show. ?
Missing Support bar specs¡¡shipping bolts for the saw that need to be removed¡¡, what¡¯s next.?
I¡¯m gathering you decided NOT to have Felder commission your machine. ? The dilemmas you now face might help understand why I wrote the Felder Survival Guide back in 2004. ?Culturally, Felder does not place high value on documenting the details for the customer. ?Further evidence of this is their elimination of configuration detail from their web site, lack of published PDF documentation in some kind of user portal, or instruction videos. ?They love to pour communication energy into photos and videos that sell equipment, but have alway been severely lacking when it comes to use, installation, alignment, problem diagnosis, etc. ?It¡¯s gotten batter, but far from ideal
Once you get your rip fence bar installed, you want to adjust it so the rip fence has slight toe-out to the saw blade. ?You make that adjustment by ?securing the stud closest to the slider, loosen all the others, and use the one farthest from the slider that attaches to the extension table to get the bar angle correct using this technique to check toe-out, following the verbiage below the photo.
<screenshot_5457.jpeg>
This is the technique I use for checking the toe-out of the rip fence. ? Using a precision ground Johnson level (which has machined parallel surfaces), or an extra section of the rip fence extrusion (if you have a spare), or a straight edge or some other flat aluminum extrusion with parallel faces, lightly clamp it to a partially elevated saw blade as shown in the photo. ? This presents an "averaged" surface representing the saw blade position against which you can indicate relative to the rip fence. ?By moving the indicator along the rip fence, keeping it against the rip fence as you move the indicator, you can visually see the toe-out by observing the change in the dial indicator reading.?
Position the dial indicator as shown in the photo and move the rip fence toward the saw blade until the indicator hand starts to move, then lock the rip fence position and zero out the dial by rotating the bezel. ? Move the indicator along the rip fence, keeping it against the rip fence and observe the indicator reading. ? If the indicator moves clockwise, the fence is angled inward toward the blade, called toe-in, which is a dangerous condition that can cause kick-back, and will produce a burned or torn edge on the stock cut during a ripping operation. ? If the indicator hand moves counterclockwise as you move it forward against the fence, the fence is angled away from the blade as material is being cut - called toe-out. ? Ideally, the rip fence is properly aligned when the dial indicator shows 0.002 to 0.004 inches of toe-out over approximately a 10-inch distance.
If you don¡¯t have a Oneway dial indicator base like the one shown above, you can make your own. ?Here are images extracted from David (¡°Lucky¡±) Luckensmeye¡¯s excellent article in Australian Wood Review that illustrates the indicator holder he made (fancy burl hardwood).
<Photo 17 copy.jpeg>
David Luckensmeyer