Alex,
I would be just as much upset with the floppy guard do you think it is a price point issue?
Comparatively, the guard tube on my K975 is massive but it comes with a much more expensive saw. BTW, mine does not swing out either, may be new ones do.
Imran? On Feb 18, 2020, at 10:49 AM, Alex Bowlds <aabj@...> wrote:
? I have the Felder overhead guard on my KF700SP. ?It is on a saw with the wide rip option, so the arm is quite long. ?The pros include... ?It is really built heavy duty. ?It functions well, and with the right dust extractor system, it collects the vast majority of the sawdust. ?It easily swings out of the way. ?
It¡¯s only drawback is the mounting system that felder used to attach it to the saw chassis. ?For engineers, they really missed the boat on this one. ?Mine is a 2018 vintage saw. ?I have not checked to see if they improved the mounting method. ?Due to the weight, the length of the arm, and the poor mounting method, when the guard is swung out of the way, it droops down several inches. ?This is probably not as much of an issue with the shorter arm used on the narrow rip capacity saws.
When I get disgusted enough, I will take the time to make a better mounting bracket and kick the Felder stupidity to the curb. ?
And before you go down the ¡°did you bring this to the attention of Felder¡± path, indeed I did. ?To no avail. ?I am apparently the only one that has a problem with the mounting design of their overhead saw guard. ?I guess a little droop is not too much of an inconvenience for others.
Again I think it is probably not a problem on a narrow rip capacity saw. ?I would probably purchase it again, and modify the mounting bracket prior to the initial installation. ?It really is well built except for the one flaw.
Alex On Feb 10, 2020, at 12:40 PM, Sang Luu <sangluu@...> wrote:
?I've read a few older posts about this but I must say, I sort of regret not getting the overhead saw guard on my K700s. The stock Euro Guard II doesn't work too well especially if there's a hose connected to it. The weight of the hose, even when suspended in the air, can deflect the guard making it a pain to use.?
I'm wondering if someone here has been able to make (force!) the stock Euro Guard II work well enough for daily use?
I'm asking so I can pretend to exhaust all options before I break down and just buy or make/adapt a non-Felder version to the saw.?
BTW, this is the non-Felder option I've been looking at:?
It's made by a Taiwanese panel saw manufacturer (clones of Euro saws) but they have a pretty neat dust guard which I think is 95% bolt on. The only modification would be the placement of the arm, relative to the extension tables, to match the Felder dimensions, but otherwise the mounting is conceptually the same. If it costs me $500 and couple of hours of fitting, it would be a good option, price-wise, mee-thinks.?
Here's a video of it in action:?
Sang
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I have the Felder overhead guard on my KF700SP. ?It is on a saw with the wide rip option, so the arm is quite long. ?The pros include... ?It is really built heavy duty. ?It functions well, and with the right dust extractor system, it collects the vast majority of the sawdust. ?It easily swings out of the way. ?
It¡¯s only drawback is the mounting system that felder used to attach it to the saw chassis. ?For engineers, they really missed the boat on this one. ?Mine is a 2018 vintage saw. ?I have not checked to see if they improved the mounting method. ?Due to the weight, the length of the arm, and the poor mounting method, when the guard is swung out of the way, it droops down several inches. ?This is probably not as much of an issue with the shorter arm used on the narrow rip capacity saws.
When I get disgusted enough, I will take the time to make a better mounting bracket and kick the Felder stupidity to the curb. ?
And before you go down the ¡°did you bring this to the attention of Felder¡± path, indeed I did. ?To no avail. ?I am apparently the only one that has a problem with the mounting design of their overhead saw guard. ?I guess a little droop is not too much of an inconvenience for others.
Again I think it is probably not a problem on a narrow rip capacity saw. ?I would probably purchase it again, and modify the mounting bracket prior to the initial installation. ?It really is well built except for the one flaw.
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On Feb 10, 2020, at 12:40 PM, Sang Luu <sangluu@...> wrote:
?I've read a few older posts about this but I must say, I sort of regret not getting the overhead saw guard on my K700s. The stock Euro Guard II doesn't work too well especially if there's a hose connected to it. The weight of the hose, even when suspended in the air, can deflect the guard making it a pain to use.?
I'm wondering if someone here has been able to make (force!) the stock Euro Guard II work well enough for daily use?
I'm asking so I can pretend to exhaust all options before I break down and just buy or make/adapt a non-Felder version to the saw.?
BTW, this is the non-Felder option I've been looking at:?
It's made by a Taiwanese panel saw manufacturer (clones of Euro saws) but they have a pretty neat dust guard which I think is 95% bolt on. The only modification would be the placement of the arm, relative to the extension tables, to match the Felder dimensions, but otherwise the mounting is conceptually the same. If it costs me $500 and couple of hours of fitting, it would be a good option, price-wise, mee-thinks.?
Here's a video of it in action:?
Sang
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Jonathan, Nice cabinetry ? On Feb 18, 2020, at 10:36 AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote:
? Glen I use spax 4mm screws and drill a 5mm hole, gives a little wiggle?room.? I fit the front's in the shop to save time on site. I use spacers to set the front up and then just screw it up, if you use quality runners you get very little sag
Attached is one I did last week.
Jonathan?
<20200214_151148.jpg>
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Glen,
Below is the link to the torx bit I use the Wurth Assy screws. ? It has what Wera calls a ¡°Holding Function¡± which basically means the bit is a tight fit to the recess and has a slightly tapered torx star pattern, which translates into ¡°you can hold a screw with the bit horizontally or vertically without it falling off the bit¡± ? It also means you can really push down hard on the screw when starting it with much less risk that the screw will angle over and the bit go diving into the material you¡¯re trying to screw into. ??
Here¡¯s a review of the various Wera torx bit styles that explains.
?
These bits are more expensive, but hold up very well and are worth the extra money IMO. ? If you get the proper size, the HF bits work just as well with GRK.
David Best
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Hi all, I want to thank everyone on the input on what screws to use. after your thoughts and what I read, Straight slot is the.... no never mind.
I have decided on GRK for the BS projects i do and the fact That I have a lot of them.
Going with David suggestion on Wurth assy plus for boxes.
?And Michael suggestion on Hafele for the drawer fronts.
I try this approach as see how it goes.?
On drawer slides? i am going to give the bottom mounts a try, Little more money. But this is what I found.
on the shitty side mounts I got and used, I spent a lot of time using spacers to get the fronts as close as I could. Now moving my stuff in to the drawers I have movement in the slides to throw off my alignment. I actually thought about preloading the drawers with some bricks before hand but didn't.
I was thinking about trying something I am against but... When you buy premade shit cabs from HD or Blows, the drawer box hole is oversize so you can adjust the front.
Not my way but anybody do it this way ?
Thanks? for all your help as always
Glen? ?
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Re: Felder overhead guard vs. riving knife mounted guard
Dust collection aside, my issue with riving mounted guard is the fact that I am removing the guard often for buried cuts. The riving knife is recommended to be above the top of blade which also improves clearance for clamps etc to not interfere with the knob that secures the guard in the riving knife.
So on my KF, I have resorted to keeping the riving knife below top of blade so I only remove the guard for buried cuts.
I have recently acquired K975 with overhead guard. I have not used it yet so will see if I am going to be happy with it.
Imran On Feb 18, 2020, at 10:02 AM, John Harden <caliplinker2@...> wrote:
?If you figure out the answer, let me know.? The stock riving knife mounted guard with small dust port works okay, but misses quite a lot of the dust.? I've toyed with either making or buying an overarm system that accepts a 4" port. ?
I've looked at the shark guard, which isn't bad, and has the advantage of custom, 3D printed dust ports.? From YouTube reviews, it seems to catch most all of the dust.? I would think with "whiskers" such as these attached, it would catch most everything.
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Glen I use spax 4mm screws and drill a 5mm hole, gives a little wiggle?room.? I fit the front's in the shop to save time on site. I use spacers to set the front up and then just screw it up, if you use quality runners you get very little sag
Attached is one I did last week.
Jonathan?
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Re: I did something stupid!
I will show this message to the electrician. Would the power drive panel had worked like it did if the wiring was not correct? That¡¯s what I¡¯m a bit confused about.
thanks!
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Then there's this guy.? Probably nicest DIY blade guard I've ever seen and would work well with our sliders where we do most of our ripping from left of blade.? His video work is even better than his blade guard.? LOL!!!
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=shark+guard+system&ru=%2fvideos%2fsearch%3fq%3dshark%2bguard%2bsystem%26FORM%3dHDRSC3&view=detail&mid=7F9CB23C2D4936FD845C7F9CB23C2D4936FD845C&&FORM=VDRVRV
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Re: Felder overhead guard vs. riving knife mounted guard
If you figure out the answer, let me know.? The stock riving knife mounted guard with small dust port works okay, but misses quite a lot of the dust.? I've toyed with either making or buying an overarm system that accepts a 4" port. ?
I've looked at the shark guard, which isn't bad, and has the advantage of custom, 3D printed dust ports.? From YouTube reviews, it seems to catch most all of the dust.? I would think with "whiskers" such as these attached, it would catch most everything.
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Re: I did something stupid!
Mac is has a great point here. When I was setting up my stuff< i was told to make sure that the electronics are not connected to the manufactured leg. I asked Felder several times and here as well. After being less unsure what I was doing I did it and it worked.
In my case with a Phase Perfect it was L-1 and L3 were the line side and L2 the manufactured leg, on my machines the brown wire was the one to pay close attention to.
I cant remember it exactly but it worked out fine and for the machines running backwards it was a simple switch of L1 and L3 I think. Dont go by this but David Best and others can explain it very simple and follow them. Glen
Big Tree Woodworking
P.O. Box 257 Avery Ca 95224
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 8:27 PM mac campshure via Groups.Io <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: you ?need to make sure T 3 generated leg is not Hook to control circuit the gray lead I think ?You also ?want to make sure the AR is I think X series or voltage sensitive
Designing and building for 47 years ?Well...
Electrician came, installed phase converter. It is an American Rotary PL- 20 which will be connected to the 940 S.
Voltage read 243,248,249.?
The saw is still on the crate, I literally just unloaded it and didn't have time to off load the machine yet. All the "goodies" around the main saw are off - only the saw remains.
We plugged it into the saw, just to make sure the panel lit up and the machine was getting "power".
It lit up and was getting power... and, I just couldn't resist touching the power drive for height. I turned the height up until the riving knife was exposed. Then... the panel went blank.?
Machine won't turn on.
So, I read through some of the manual and i know there is a motor switch on the back by the main (black nub inside clear dome)
But, I did not want to touch anything... First order of business.. I guess is to unload it fully off the crate :D
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Felder overhead guard vs. riving knife mounted guard
I know this must have been discussed in the past, but my search didn't answer my question.
Is it pretty well concluded that the overarm system is superior to the standard type that connects to the riving knife.
Is the bulkiness of the OG overcome by it's advantages? I'm still on the fence on this feature for a KF 700.
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Re: I did something stupid!
The ARD series is cnc capable I have the ARDX which is cnc ?capable and high starting torque in my home shop Designing and building for 47 years
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On Feb 17, 2020, at 10:27 PM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? you ?need to make sure T 3 generated leg is not Hook to control circuit the gray lead I think ?You also ?want to make sure the AR is I think X series or voltage sensitive
Designing and building for 47 years On Feb 17, 2020, at 9:07 PM, Michael Glaser <1michaelglaser1@...> wrote:
?Well...
Electrician came, installed phase converter. It is an American Rotary PL- 20 which will be connected to the 940 S.
Voltage read 243,248,249.?
The saw is still on the crate, I literally just unloaded it and didn't have time to off load the machine yet. All the "goodies" around the main saw are off - only the saw remains.
We plugged it into the saw, just to make sure the panel lit up and the machine was getting "power".
It lit up and was getting power... and, I just couldn't resist touching the power drive for height. I turned the height up until the riving knife was exposed. Then... the panel went blank.?
Machine won't turn on.
So, I read through some of the manual and i know there is a motor switch on the back by the main (black nub inside clear dome)
But, I did not want to touch anything... First order of business.. I guess is to unload it fully off the crate :D
|
Re: I did something stupid!
you ?need to make sure T 3 generated leg is not Hook to control circuit the gray lead I think ?You also ?want to make sure the AR is I think X series or voltage sensitive
Designing and building for 47 years
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On Feb 17, 2020, at 9:07 PM, Michael Glaser <1michaelglaser1@...> wrote:
?Well...
Electrician came, installed phase converter. It is an American Rotary PL- 20 which will be connected to the 940 S.
Voltage read 243,248,249.?
The saw is still on the crate, I literally just unloaded it and didn't have time to off load the machine yet. All the "goodies" around the main saw are off - only the saw remains.
We plugged it into the saw, just to make sure the panel lit up and the machine was getting "power".
It lit up and was getting power... and, I just couldn't resist touching the power drive for height. I turned the height up until the riving knife was exposed. Then... the panel went blank.?
Machine won't turn on.
So, I read through some of the manual and i know there is a motor switch on the back by the main (black nub inside clear dome)
But, I did not want to touch anything... First order of business.. I guess is to unload it fully off the crate :D
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Temporary until the next upgrade, I guess :)
Definitely CNC, no way I'd route all that by hand. If anyone would like the DXF, just email me.?
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Re: I did something stupid!
Michael,
Welcome to my world, As I know nothing about this and less everyday, I know There are people here that can get you through this, or a call to Felder as a second. My guess is all is well and you tripped something. At least you dont have a shaper the runs in the correct direction for months and one day starts running backwards.
Glen
Big Tree Woodworking
P.O. Box 257 Avery Ca 95224
Well...
Electrician came, installed phase converter. It is an American Rotary PL- 20 which will be connected to the 940 S.
Voltage read 243,248,249.?
The saw is still on the crate, I literally just unloaded it and didn't have time to off load the machine yet. All the "goodies" around the main saw are off - only the saw remains.
We plugged it into the saw, just to make sure the panel lit up and the machine was getting "power".
It lit up and was getting power... and, I just couldn't resist touching the power drive for height. I turned the height up until the riving knife was exposed. Then... the panel went blank.?
Machine won't turn on.
So, I read through some of the manual and i know there is a motor switch on the back by the main (black nub inside clear dome)
But, I did not want to touch anything... First order of business.. I guess is to unload it fully off the crate :D
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Glen,? Many people use these drawer front adjusters. I've never tried them myself. I use truss head screws, 1 1/8" long. I predrill two holes slightly small for the screws, drive them in just so the point is poking through. Then I use spacers to align the front and push so the points make an indentation. I then open the drawer and drive the screws in. I add two more and adjust if necessary.
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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 Just did some drawers today with em ;D I still highly recommend R2 Zip 1-3/4" screws for Assembly though! Not sure about those wurth screws, but I know I don't want screws that go through a nickel going within 1-1/2" of a frameless cabinet face and risk splitting it. I've used 1-3/4" #6 zip on MDF, Meleamine, Plywood, etc. Zero issues - ever.? Do the assy screws come in #6? EDIT: The oversized hole (5/8) is for adjustment (obviously). But it is used typically afterwards. Make sure the screw is center when you drive it in. It comes in handy with a hole that size because sometimes a heavier drawer will sag when fully closed. Especially with newer kitchens that are mainly BIG, WIDE, DEEP drawers! People are putting heavy food processors in them, etc. I always have to go back and adjust. Lately, I have been asking the client first what they plan on using where. Then just subtract/add couple mm from my drawer face jig to account for the weight.
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Well...
Electrician came, installed phase converter. It is an American Rotary PL- 20 which will be connected to the 940 S.
Voltage read 243,248,249.?
The saw is still on the crate, I literally just unloaded it and didn't have time to off load the machine yet. All the "goodies" around the main saw are off - only the saw remains.
We plugged it into the saw, just to make sure the panel lit up and the machine was getting "power".
It lit up and was getting power... and, I just couldn't resist touching the power drive for height. I turned the height up until the riving knife was exposed. Then... the panel went blank.?
Machine won't turn on.
So, I read through some of the manual and i know there is a motor switch on the back by the main (black nub inside clear dome)
But, I did not want to touch anything... First order of business.. I guess is to unload it fully off the crate :D
|
Thanks. I did not realize it was being sold under another name here.?
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On Feb 17, 2020, at 6:46 PM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Like I mentioned earlier I have the Hebor / Alder since 1990 ihave 240 volt unit ?simple and heavy duty same as Hoffman today. Designing and building for 47 years On Feb 17, 2020, at 1:52 PM, Michael Todrin <michaeltodrin@...> wrote:
?Does anyone have any experience with the Hoffman lipping planer?
Michael
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When i did production cabinetry I did it a few different ways one was with an oversized hole and washer screw the zipped in 2-4 screws after adjustment to lock it in place. I had also Shot pin nails from the inside of the drawer then screwed working my way up from the bottom with the last drawer double sticked then pined and screwed.? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 17, 2020, at 8:41 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
?Hi all, I want to thank everyone on the input on what screws to use. after your thoughts and what I read, Straight slot is the.... no never mind.
I have decided on GRK for the BS projects i do and the fact That I have a lot of them.
Going with David suggestion on Wurth assy plus for boxes.
?And Michael suggestion on Hafele for the drawer fronts.
I try this approach as see how it goes.?
On drawer slides? i am going to give the bottom mounts a try, Little more money. But this is what I found.
on the shitty side mounts I got and used, I spent a lot of time using spacers to get the fronts as close as I could. Now moving my stuff in to the drawers I have movement in the slides to throw off my alignment. I actually thought about preloading the drawers with some bricks before hand but didn't.
I was thinking about trying something I am against but... When you buy premade shit cabs from HD or Blows, the drawer box hole is oversize so you can adjust the front.
Not my way but anybody do it this way ?
Thanks? for all your help as always
Glen? ?
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imran
David P. Best
Michael Glaser
Sang Luu
Jason Holtz