Re: I did something stupid!
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Mac is has a great point here. When I was setting up my stuff< i was told to make sure that the electronics are not connected to the manufactured leg. I asked Felder several times and here as well. After being less unsure what I was doing I did it and it worked.
In my case with a Phase Perfect it was L-1 and L3 were the line side and L2 the manufactured leg, on my machines the brown wire was the one to pay close attention to.
I cant remember it exactly but it worked out fine and for the machines running backwards it was a simple switch of L1 and L3 I think. Dont go by this but David Best and others can explain it very simple and follow them. Glen
Big Tree Woodworking
P.O. Box 257 Avery Ca 95224
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 8:27 PM mac campshure via Groups.Io <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: you ?need to make sure T 3 generated leg is not Hook to control circuit the gray lead I think ?You also ?want to make sure the AR is I think X series or voltage sensitive
Designing and building for 47 years ?Well...
Electrician came, installed phase converter. It is an American Rotary PL- 20 which will be connected to the 940 S.
Voltage read 243,248,249.?
The saw is still on the crate, I literally just unloaded it and didn't have time to off load the machine yet. All the "goodies" around the main saw are off - only the saw remains.
We plugged it into the saw, just to make sure the panel lit up and the machine was getting "power".
It lit up and was getting power... and, I just couldn't resist touching the power drive for height. I turned the height up until the riving knife was exposed. Then... the panel went blank.?
Machine won't turn on.
So, I read through some of the manual and i know there is a motor switch on the back by the main (black nub inside clear dome)
But, I did not want to touch anything... First order of business.. I guess is to unload it fully off the crate :D
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