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Oh and one other clever idea is to use stock that is wider than necessary, let the tear out happen and then rip to the finished width. I dont know what step you are in your process however so this may

interesting discussion around tear out. compared to the other option, the way michael shows the fence, intuitively seems to be less violent on exit. handwork is fine for few pieces but if doing a lot

Right, I was referring to my skills as a chisel operator. Bill Bélanger

Bill don't forget many factors at work here. Type of material, size and diameter of the cutters, angle the cutter is going to exit wood. Also quality of cut you are trying to get. Taylor's suggestions

He asked to reduce tear out and the shaper will certainly give it a beating. You could use a backer board to help a bit i suppose but still not as clean as a sharp chisel Taylor Donsker

Your going to buy a shaper then use a chisel? Really? Bill Belanger

score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line. Taylor Donsker www.tdonsker.com 818.424.9046

tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later. Which way to

Bird, while these were used i bought strap hinges for shop doors from here: https://rwhardware.com/ and buy weatherstripping from here:

I didn't manage to include the cutter image while editing the original post. Here it is: I also corrected the subject line. Should be *bridle* joint instead of *bridal* =)

Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to cut mitered bridle joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd

Shawn If you require a different size cutter Whitehall will manufacture to your specifications. A few years back on a visit to UK I spent a couple of hours in there factory getting a private tour by

Bird, yes around 39” wide and 101” tall. funny that door design was dictated by these used hinges i picked up for $25. by design i mean i only had 2 hinges per door if i had 3 i likely would have

Thanks David, looks like a winner. 30mm cutting height per disc is good so I can do 2 1/4” or 2 1/2” thick doors with 3/4” tenons, which aren’t standard around here but do come up.?-Shawn

Is each door then 3.25+ feet? (Making sure I understand the dimensions.) What was your source for the hinges?

Hey Marlowe , I have fiddled with the spring tension endlessly, I'm not sure what else I could about the tension at this point. Thanks

Hey Dave, pallet boards they are. My friend was remodeling his restaurant and had a plan to do pallet boards everywhere. After doing an accent wall, he decided against doing the whole restaurant and

Shawn, a pair of these should do your job nicely. https://www.whitehill-tools.com/cutter-heads/turn-blade-groovers/200S00510/

That is an awesome looking mortiser. Thanks for sharing. I would definitely check with rangate. Maybe it is not an issue for you but thought of one last thing. just ensure that the height of the

Shawn, Two questions...First are those pallet boards on the wall? Did you tongue/groove them? Second, where do you have your idler for the AR phase converter? Thanks Dave [email protected]> wrote: