Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
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interesting discussion around tear out.?compared to the other option,?the way michael shows the fence, intuitively seems to be less violent on exit. handwork is fine for few pieces but if doing a lot then it becomes time consuming.
i would use a backer board, a sharp scribe and have few extra pieces for added insurance. if things do not go well adjust plan.
imran?
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On Oct 6, 2020, at 10:49 AM, "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote: ?
Bill don't forget many factors at work here. Type of material, size and diameter of the cutters, angle the cutter is going to exit wood. Also quality of cut you are trying to get. Taylor's suggestions covers many of these issues to get a superior cut. A shaper is like most things only as good as the operators experience and the many failures witnessed.?
-------- Original message -------- From: Bill B¨¦langer <Bllblngr@...> Date: 2020-10-06 9:54 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Cutting mitered bridal joint
Your going to buy a shaper then use a chisel? Really?
Bill Belanger? score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker 818.424.9046 On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
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tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
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imran