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I have been using "Dandy Drawers" for many years for nuts and bolts and such for over 25 years.? Super cost heavy and well made plastic drawers where you build a simple carcass to hold them.? I 40

Greg, I'm very much a noobie when it comes to band saws, but here are my observations from the last year or so with my Laguna LT14SUV (Asian-made, Euro-style 14" band saw, 3hp, ~14" resaw capacity):

1. CNC is indeed repeatable, results vary somewhat with size of end mills, depth of cut and feed rates. Good methods and practices are still required though. 2. Software is great, just depends upon

I've watched all the Snodgrass videos and have had success with his method on my 14" Jet bandsaw. I have an FB510 too that I use for resawing with a 1" Trimaster carbide blade. The Snodgrass approach

I’ve lusted after a CNC for 20 years for my hobby shop. I am an engineer who has worked in high tech for 36 years so the CNC stuff is definitely of interest. As I’ve dug in a few things I’ve

Hi Jim, “Drift is important for great off-tkoihe-saw results because excess drift will hold up the blade which then takes little jumps and makes a rough cut.” Few months ago, I asked here how to

I have an FB510 and have been able to adjust the table for drift. I also have a shopmade resaw fence which can be tweaked via shims to fine tune for drift. I don't use the t slot so that is not a

Thank you! I have a new T27 Martin shaper and this was very helpful! Keep the videos coming! Tom Morris Wichita, KS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNjXOLSZvgA&t=382s Scott Slater indicated to me that it would be nice if there were how-to videos on the use of the Martin shapers. I indicated to Scott that I would be

Ditto the Snodgrass video. I followed his instructions and have gotten very accurate resaw thicknesses. Snodgrass claims the fence can be out by 1/4” and still cut straight. I’m not sure about

Lot of great feedbacks, I think I start to grasp the limitation about the stock thickness and alignment. For my use case, I believe this is manageable with a small table saw on a side and something

Resized_20210523_115948.jpeg <https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=46c6388e23&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r5153394321679026227&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=f_kp1i424n0> (453K)

Exactly, these things are fun to drool over, but out of reach for 99% of us. I almost went pod and rail machine because they can be pretty cheap, but most of them needed 440V or way more amperage than

Anyone have experience with radius moulding? ?I’ve got quite a big trim job coming up boxing columns and arches with stain grade walnut (second phase. ?Painters just finished with the chair

Fascinating video Brian.? I really liked the plunge cut chain-saw head for mortises.? If I wanted to make a couple hundred thousands of something and I had the necessary capital, this would be a lot

Remember, you're depth of cut is limited by the length of your tooling.? In general, the longer the tool is, the larger the diameter is going to be.? Cutting 8/4 stock is going to require at least

For an idea of what’s out there in aggregate heads, watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKLCqMGUAXE <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKLCqMGUAXE> The problem here is the machines stout

Thanks for all the feedback, I do get than for most of you this is not a replacement, but for my use case I am still no convinced. For examples, I do not cut anything taller than 8/4. I have done

Craig, Looks like you have a great saw. I would get a 1" carbide tipped blade like the Woodmaster CT by Lenox and put plenty of tension on it. They are expensive, but will last easily 10 times longer

I quit watching the video as soon as I heard "Center the blade on the upper wheel". This is the method I was first taught and always had problems tweaking alignment. Plus, changing blades means