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Hello Chuck: Its sounds like you are over-running and hitting uncut wood with the full depth of your mortising bit. I've never used the Felder attachment, but I assume its an x-y table. If thats

John, I checked both possibilities you mentioned and neither is the case. This bothers me. Anyone have any idea what could be causing this problem? Chuck

My internet server crashed and I have not been able to post since. This is only a test to verify that I'm back on line. Thanks, Rod B.

...anybody have clever jigs for mortising table indexing??? -Philip Rod Barton wrote:

The pictures look nice. If you do not want to make the jig, Garrett Wade sells a OneWay jig that I have. It has a heavy base and a dial indicator. I think that it may be the cheap man's version that

Just posted four jig pictures to the vault under Rod Barton folder. A friend took the photos, unfortunately the pictures are out of order but at least you might get an idea or two for your own use.

Scott, When I first got my AD7-41 it did not have the electric lift kit and I thought that raising and lowering the planer table was something any real man could do. After a while I got to thinking

Philip: Thank you. I have the dial indicator on a base and also a granite plate I used to sharpen plane irons before I started using plate glass which is a heck of lot lighter. Sid

...check runout with a dial indicator, usually mounted to a base that sits solidly on the saw table - dial indicator plunger or finger can be positioned to contact the arbor flange - sounds like a

Philip: Thank you for the tips. I will start working through them . I am new at this so I have some a couple of "dumb" questions. How do you get a gauge next to the arbor to measure its run out

I've considered another poor-man's solution to the problem of cranking the planer up and down: drive the crank with my cordless drill. It should be substantially faster than hand-cranking. I'd add

Chuck, I just went out to the shop and checked my mortiser. I'm wondering if one of the stops is loose or the machine is not completely locked into the jointer on one side. I found that if the

I'm finding something troublesome with my new mortising attachment (rolled up to BF7-41). After a discussion with Wolfgang, I was able to use my 18mm & 20mm mortising bits without constantly knocking

Welcome to the group Robert. It's a pleasure to have you with your woodworking skills and metal fabrication skill, too. I'm sure everyone here knows how handy it is to use those metal working skills

I'm finding something troublesome with my new mortising attachment (rolled up to BF7-41). After a discussion with Wolfgang, I was able to use my 18mm & 20mm mortising bits without constantly knocking

Are we still on for Saturday? What time will work best for you? I have until 11 AM free. I will also need directions or at least your address as I can pull up directions on the net. Thanks, Rod

After having worked with my new BF-6 for a few months, I don't think I would want the electric elevator for myself. The changeovers aren't bothersome enough to me to warrant spending another $840. I

Welcome to the group, Rob! Your work sounds interesting - I sure hope you will share some pictures with the group. Take care... -- Geoff Shepherd Everett, WA

I've found I can work the planing crank pretty dang fast if I keep my elbow is lined up with the crank shaft (i.e. the center point of the indicator dial). It's still alot of cranking, but it seems to

Thanks to everyone who participated in the shaper cutter poll. Take care, john taylor