----- Original Message -----

From: Philip Tamarkin

To: felder-woodworking@...

Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 12:34 PM

Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Splintering on cuts...

...check runout with a dial indicator, usually mounted to a base that sits solidly on the saw table - dial indicator plunger or finger can be positioned to contact the arbor flange - sounds like a good place to start searching for problems!? Check flatness against a granite plate, or failing that, a piece of heavy glass will do a reasonable job...-P

dolsid wrote:

Philip:? Thank you for the tips.? I will start working through them .? I am
new at this so I have some a couple of "dumb" questions.? How do you get a
gauge next to the arbor to measure its run out since the arbor is suspended
below the saw bed.? The arbor on my machine has been modified to accommodate
a dado set so I am interested in checking that first.? I was thinking of
setting the gauge on the table surface and measuring the distance to the saw
blade as I rotate it by hand but this would include the blade's plate
variations as well as the arbor's wobble.? Also how to do measure the
blade's plate flatness?
???? ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Tamarkin"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 6:32 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Splintering on cuts...

> I'm running an '88 BF-5 - has a scoring unit, but I haven't bothered using
it 'cause
> I'm getting great cuts without splintering - NB: I'm not running melamine
or 2-sided
> plastic laminate at all, thank God, and I'll use the scorer if I do! -
here are the
> secrets I know.
>
> 1.? Great blades make a difference - flatness of plate is most crucial -
check a # of
> blades from the same manufacturor, and you'll find quite a bit of latitude
in the
> plates.? If you get something within a couple of thousandths of flat,
cherish it, and
> use it for your finest cuts.? I'm running Felder's 96 tooth "Silent
Power", which does
> a good job of non-splintering, and a 96 tooth Tenryu (stock blade, made to
fit
> Altendorf) that cuts perfectly-best I've ever used!? At about $140 it's a
little less
> expensive than the Felder.? Don't mess with a thin kerf - some cut clean,
but mostly
> the thin plate distorts when overheated,? I'm sticking with only 3.2 mm
kerf - saves
> resetting the fence every time I change a blade, too!? Obviously,
razor-sharp (and with
> sides of teeth jointed during sharpening) matters.
>
> 2.? Check arbor run-out on the saw - best blade in the world will cut
badly if the
> arbor's out - change bearings, if necessary, or have a machinist recut the
arbor face
> accurately.
>
> 3.? Zero-clearance throat plate will help a lot, but won't work w/your
machine.? The
> BF-5 blade sits several inches away from the slider, so I can make an
insert, but
> haven't needed to.
>
> 4.? Try to arrange that you're taking at least 1/2" or so off with every
cut.? The
> hairline cuts seem to want to splinter worse.
>
> 5.? USING EXTREME CAUTION AND A BLADE GUARD make your cut with the blade
raised as high
> as possible - this results in the tooth meeting the underside of the panel
as near to
> parallel (no angle...) as possible, and will help minimize chip out.
>
> 6.? High angle ATB blades (30 degree...) have worked well for me -
cove-faced tooth
> configuration works well when sharp, but cut quality deteriorates rapidly,
and tend to
> go from workably sharp to dead-dull without a moment's notice!
>
> Scorers are their own set of problems - try these tips, and maybe you can
avoid!
> -Philip Tamarkin
> dolsid wrote:
>
> > Scott:? I didn't have any experience with combination machines when I
bought
> > my 7-41 so I made some Rookie mistakes. Two features I am thinking of
> > looking into field modifications for are the electric drive for the
planer
> > bed which you mentioned and a scoring unit.? Of the two I think the
scorning
> > unit is the best buy since I have not been to achieve the quality of
tear
> > out free cross-cutting on the Felder that I had with my own Woodworker
II
> > thin kerf blade I used on an old Delta in the cabinet shop where I
rented
> > shop time.? I have used a new 10' thin kerf Woodworker II (the old one
was
> > replaced by Forrest when they found that their jig had gotten out of
adjust
> > for drilling the pin holes in the old one),? a 12" Woodworker II and a
12"
> > Felder blade and a zero offset insert.? None of these blades produce a
tear
> > out free cross-cut Although the tear out is very small.? I think the
reason
> > for this is the position of the insert next to sliding table doesn't
allow
> > enough support even with a zero clearance insert.? If some of the more
> > experienced members of this group have anything they think I am doing
wrong,
> > I would appreciate hearing from them.? My work- around is to set the
> > splitter below the top of the blade when I need to make a scorning pass
> > before a cross-cut.? With the planer you have to lower the bed enough to
> > allow the dust cover to flip over to the jointer position before
lowering
> > and locking the jointer beds in place.? I usually mill several boards at
the
> > same time and after jointing I run all of them through the same planer
> > setting insuring constant thickness.? If you have a work flow which
requires
> > going back and forth from the jointer to the planer, lowering the planer
bed
> > would get old fast.? An option I would suggest to stay away from is for
> > using a dado set.? I still don't have mine implemented and will have as
much
> > tied up in it as one of the above.?????? ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Scott Slater" <scott@...>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 1:39 PM
> > Subject: [felder-woodworking] Electrical Controls on Thicknesser
> >
> > > HI,
> > >
> > > I am interested in the electric raise and lower on the thickness
planer
> > > (not the numeric panel - only the buttons). My machine will be built
in
> > > Austria next week (finally), so I cannot add it at the factory, it
> > > would have to be installed here.
> > >
> > > Do any of the members here have that feature, and if so are you happy
> > > with it - is it worth the $840 + install? Thanks - Scott
> > >
> > >
> >
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