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I'm running an '88 BF-5 - has a scoring unit, but I haven't bothered using

I'm getting great cuts without splintering - NB: I'm not running melamine

plastic laminate at all, thank God, and I'll use the scorer if I do! -

secrets I know.

1. Great blades make a difference - flatness of plate is most crucial -

blades from the same manufacturor, and you'll find quite a bit of latitude

plates. If you get something within a couple of thousandths of flat,

use it for your finest cuts. I'm running Felder's 96 tooth "Silent

a good job of non-splintering, and a 96 tooth Tenryu (stock blade, made to

Altendorf) that cuts perfectly-best I've ever used! At about $140 it's a

expensive than the Felder. Don't mess with a thin kerf - some cut clean,

the thin plate distorts when overheated, I'm sticking with only 3.2 mm

resetting the fence every time I change a blade, too! Obviously,

sides of teeth jointed during sharpening) matters.

2. Check arbor run-out on the saw - best blade in the world will cut

arbor's out - change bearings, if necessary, or have a machinist recut the

accurately.

3. Zero-clearance throat plate will help a lot, but won't work w/your

BF-5 blade sits several inches away from the slider, so I can make an

haven't needed to.

4. Try to arrange that you're taking at least 1/2" or so off with every

hairline cuts seem to want to splinter worse.

5. USING EXTREME CAUTION AND A BLADE GUARD make your cut with the blade

as possible - this results in the tooth meeting the underside of the panel

parallel (no angle...) as possible, and will help minimize chip out.

6. High angle ATB blades (30 degree...) have worked well for me -

configuration works well when sharp, but cut quality deteriorates rapidly,

go from workably sharp to dead-dull without a moment's notice!

Scorers are their own set of problems - try these tips, and maybe you can

-Philip Tamarkin
dolsid wrote:

Scott: I didn't have any experience with combination machines when I

my 7-41 so I made some Rookie mistakes. Two features I am thinking of
looking into field modifications for are the electric drive for the

bed which you mentioned and a scoring unit. Of the two I think the

unit is the best buy since I have not been to achieve the quality of

out free cross-cutting on the Felder that I had with my own Woodworker

thin kerf blade I used on an old Delta in the cabinet shop where I

shop time. I have used a new 10' thin kerf Woodworker II (the old one

replaced by Forrest when they found that their jig had gotten out of

for drilling the pin holes in the old one), a 12" Woodworker II and a

Felder blade and a zero offset insert. None of these blades produce a

out free cross-cut Although the tear out is very small. I think the

for this is the position of the insert next to sliding table doesn't

enough support even with a zero clearance insert. If some of the more
experienced members of this group have anything they think I am doing

I would appreciate hearing from them. My work- around is to set the
splitter below the top of the blade when I need to make a scorning pass
before a cross-cut. With the planer you have to lower the bed enough to
allow the dust cover to flip over to the jointer position before

and locking the jointer beds in place. I usually mill several boards at

same time and after jointing I run all of them through the same planer
setting insuring constant thickness. If you have a work flow which

going back and forth from the jointer to the planer, lowering the planer

would get old fast. An option I would suggest to stay away from is for
using a dado set. I still don't have mine implemented and will have as

tied up in it as one of the above. ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Slater" <scott@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 1:39 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Electrical Controls on Thicknesser

HI,

I am interested in the electric raise and lower on the thickness

(not the numeric panel - only the buttons). My machine will be built

Austria next week (finally), so I cannot add it at the factory, it
would have to be installed here.

Do any of the members here have that feature, and if so are you happy
with it - is it worth the $840 + install? Thanks - Scott

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