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Recently my CF531 has exhibited a delay in stopping.? When I press the stop button, the machine begins to slow down but then increases in speed and I have to wait 5 to 10 seconds before the machine

Thanks Jonathan, Bryce and Patrick. Yes, the thought was to do it in 2 pieces. Dado the profiles stock and the glue it to a backer. The shadow line is the tough part. I can roll the molding on top of

Does anyone have experience with a slider that has the optional spraying unit for cutting light metals?? I'm planning to buy a slider at the end of this year, and am trying to decide if I should get

I bought a narrow one from Crown. After looking at online options, prices and shipping I found an add for Crown. A quick call to the number got me a call back from my local rep. He was able top get me

Unexpected thing occurred years back designing/handcrafting a front door for a client; I was milling stock on jointer and saw what looked like a drop of blood on wood after flipping, but then realized

Wow! At first glance it looks like a wealth of good information. It's always good to be reminded how to use these machines safely. I've a few "pucker" moments that I would like to avoid. This document

The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group. * /General Information/BGHM_Shaper Training English.pdf (

I found a used one locally, paid $100 for it, but then had to rebuild the seals on the lift cyliinder, not sure it was worth the savings to go used. Mine is a BT Lift, think they are made in Europe,

Many thanks Brian, I think I may go ahead and buy one. I know it will come in handy around the shop for other things as well. Did you go with a specific brand and were you happy with its performance?

Like Patrick said, do it in two pieces, heck even if it were stained, you could still do it in two by first ripping the piece to be used in two. If the saw kerfs do indeed go full depth, or even close

Thanks for your insight Peter. It is working very well, & everything seems to check out, so i guess i'll enjoy the benefit of the extra warmth over the winter, then see how it goes in the summer. :)

Hey Imran, Will the moulding be painted like the example? Also, do you have a closer photo? If the final moulding will be painted, then i would do it in two pieces. The front dentil moulding would be

Ok, so if you're talking face frames, then do as Mac suggests (& i stated in my other post). Rip over size and dress. I will assume your material is 4/4? Rip first, dress second. You can also rough

Hey Dennis: Just a few comments/thoughts as relatively recently went through the same process: 1.? Do invest in a narrow pallet jack as it will make life easier when just moving the main and slider

Imran , I presume you didn’t have CNC. I don’t and this is how I would attack it …..first shape the length of moulding to required shape. I would then make a jig for the router, you would need

First use of BMM. Much needed shaper insert for 150 mm cutterheads. Imran Malik https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Thank you for the replies...John and Imran, great suggestions and simple and should do the trick!? Am going to try this method along with the BS or rough cut on the slider and then finishing on the

I use the same method as Imran. John love you Gizmo! thanks for sharing. [email protected]> wrote: -- Kindest Regards Jonathan Samways www.fineinteriorwoodwork.com www.richardmartinwindows.com

I know how to achieve everything but the shallow groove between notches. Any ideas? Imran Malik https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Hullo all- very informative thread, thanks to all the contributors! I learn a lot here. I recall one member posting that they precisely cut a square of MDF, set it against the left fence, and now you