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Seems to increase a bit as I move away from the motor along the shaft or away from the shaft to the extent shown on the pictures

Well....this sucks.. Friday I was in the middle of cutting a ton of Alder 4/4 and 8/4" lumber using my Mac clamps.. I noticed that when I retracted the sliding table after straight-lining the blade

Joel, verify your measurements by cutting part of a board so you can measure the kerf. Then you need to check how much the blade itself is contributing. Runout on the flange will introduce more error

I'm trying to understand what is going on. It sounds like the blade "flutters" or "wobbles" Two and a half thousandths of an inch on either side of centerline. If there was no wobble then the length

Well, if it is a new saw, and you can get measurable runout on the shaft, return it, call the dealer, whatever. Go put the same indicator set up on your table saw spindle and you’ll see you should

As for measuring on the shaft at different places, as shown in the picture, there is only a very small area where it is smooth all the way around and that is where I took the measurement. ?I measured

Thanks. ?I took a couple of pieces of maple and made sure it was flat with a square edge, and cut at both ends. ?Then I measured the distance with calipers. ?Then I cut it in 2 pieces. ?Then I

Is that inner flange removable? (oops, last picture shows that it is). Based on your pics I’m assuming .0035” runout on the face of the flange? .0125" on the blade? And .003” on the shaft? None

You could use an adjustable arm underneath up at an angle if you don’t have enough headroom above. Anything to spread the distance apart on the attachment points. Brian Lamb blamb11@...

i put all general purpose walk outlets with bottoms at 4’. at that time i was thinking less drywall cutting. anyhow i have not had any issues with height of placement in 20 yrs. YMMV though ....

Jason.. That just might work..I'll give it a try.. heck..the cable doesn't even need to be attached to the mounting plate, but anywhere in alignment with the bolt, but directly above it.? Thinking

Tom, I would insulate first and keep all wiring external and NOT in the walls hiddenThan. Would run main tube central and drop dowN with branches. I would monkey around with machines you have and find

Randy, Have you considered making your mounting plate longer, and using a cable/turnbuckle from above to counteract any sag that develops? It seems like a simple fix provided you have the headroom.

Agreed John, particularly when the values are relatively close to what you'd expect in the other measuring system (1450 cubic meters per hour is close to the CFM you'd expect). Yes, I see that the

I'd just cut into a hardwood board and use a good caliper to check- either partially deep or a board wider than the saw will handle. That will give you an idea if there is a problem. That saw should

Thanks Dave. ?Any recommendations on exactly how to go about doing that test so I can have confidence in the measurement?

Have you measured the kerf vs the teeth on a couple of blades to test under power and load? My 16" saws typically will measure .002-.006 wider than the teeth with the arbor flange trued. Machines with

On the boom arm at my shop, I used flange bearings where the bearings can swivel inside the flange.? While although it worked perfectly on my boom arm, I could not get it to function properly on

welcome! I work in my triple garage as well. I also have a part time worker on the weekends. although the only gear I have with Felder is the AD951, everything else is SCM or Italian.

I have had a number of Omga chop saws since 2009, one of them being a double mitre saw, sold it couple of years ago to make room. beautifully made saw. no other saw on the market is comparable except