开云体育

I uploaded a PDF of my plug wiring note to the document/electrical file upload section last week.? This applies to my 2019 and 2020 3-phase Felder machines. SW

Also ask David Best, he walked me through the correct wiring and made it clear cut and simple. Glen Big Tree Woodworking P.O. Box 257 Avery Ca 95224 wrote:

Any new info on the "next upgrade"? Bob

Alex, I would be just as much upset with the floppy guard do you think it is a price point issue? Comparatively, the guard tube on my K975 is massive but it comes with a much more expensive saw. BTW,

I have the Felder overhead guard on my KF700SP. It is on a saw with the wide rip option, so the arm is quite long. The pros include... It is really built heavy duty. It functions well, and with the

Jonathan, Nice cabinetry ? ? Glen I use spax 4mm screws and drill a 5mm hole, gives a little wiggle room. I fit the front's in the shop to save time on site. I use spacers to set the front up and

Glen, Below is the link to the torx bit I use the Wurth Assy screws. It has what Wera calls a “Holding Function” which basically means the bit is a tight fit to the recess and has a slightly

Dust collection aside, my issue with riving mounted guard is the fact that I am removing the guard often for buried cuts. The riving knife is recommended to be above the top of blade which also

Glen I use spax 4mm screws and drill a 5mm hole, gives a little wiggle room. I fit the front's in the shop to save time on site. I use spacers to set the front up and then just screw it up, if you use

I will show this message to the electrician. Would the power drive panel had worked like it did if the wiring was not correct? That’s what I’m a bit confused about. thanks!

Then there's this guy.? Probably nicest DIY blade guard I've ever seen and would work well with our sliders where we do most of our ripping from left of blade.? His video work is even better than

If you figure out the answer, let me know.? The stock riving knife mounted guard with small dust port works okay, but misses quite a lot of the dust.? I've toyed with either making or buying an

Mac is has a great point here. When I was setting up my stuff< i was told to make sure that the electronics are not connected to the manufactured leg. I asked Felder several times and here as well.

I know this must have been discussed in the past, but my search didn't answer my question. Is it pretty well concluded that the overarm system is superior to the standard type that connects to the

The ARD series is cnc capable I have the ARDX which is cnc capable and high starting torque in my home shop martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106

you need to make sure T 3 generated leg is not Hook to control circuit the gray lead I think You also want to make sure the AR is I think X series or voltage sensitive martin/campshure/co/llc Leg

Temporary until the next upgrade, I guess :) Definitely CNC, no way I'd route all that by hand. If anyone would like the DXF, just email me.

Michael, Welcome to my world, As I know nothing about this and less everyday, I know There are people here that can get you through this, or a call to Felder as a second. My guess is all is well and

Glen, Many people use these drawer front adjusters. I've never tried them myself. I use truss head screws, 1 1/8" long. I predrill two holes slightly small for the screws, drive them in just so the

Just did some drawers today with em ;D I still highly recommend R2 Zip 1-3/4" screws for Assembly though! Not sure about those wurth screws, but I know I don't want screws that go through a nickel