Re: Geoff, Please Help-and Welcome
Hi Anthony, Something I didn't explain before you signed up was that when someone posts a message everyone in the group gets it. You can change this preference and get messages via a daily digest or just see the messages when you log onto the website. When egroups merged with another group over the weekend, the "vault" area got replaced by a "files" section. All the pictures and articles are in there. Scott Slater has been at work getting these back in order plus getting the links back up. As a reminder to everyone, if you have a personal website just post a link to it. Also feel free to post pictures of your shops, or projects. Also please welcome Anthony Christy to the group. Anthony is from South Africa. Take care, John Renzetti Chadds Ford,PA --- In felder-woodworking@..., "Anthony Christy" <achristy@i...> wrote: Hello Rod
I got your message to Geoff!
Anthony
----- Original Message -----
From: Rod Barton <r_barton@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 7:09 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Geoff, Please Help
Hi Geoff,
When I checked my personal e-mail this evening, I found that I had
over 100 Felder egroup messages. Could you please suggest a way that I can turn off all messages from being forwarded to my e-mail
account.
Also, I noted that there is no longer a Vault Icon since the
upgrade this weekend or am I not accessing the system the right way.
Thanks,
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
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Newbie seeking advice????
Hi Group,
I'm new here, and this is my first posting. I'm not a Felder owner yet, but
plan to be soon. I figured I'd hang out here with you folks to learn a bit
more about the machines, and maybe you all can help me decide which machine
is for me, and with what options?
I know I want the 2 function KF-7. Here's my main indecision: Do I get the
8ft KF-7F or the KF-7 with the 78" slider? Are there any reasons NOT to go
ahead with the 8ft? Any thoughts?
And here's where I'm really stumped: There's a "demo" model KF-7F on the
Felder website, with several options I want. Plus they will add the
Industrial scoring and ship it to me for alot less than I'd been planning on
spending on the 78" KF-7.
Could you folks please share some of your Felder wisdom with me?
thanks, Jason Gant (in Amarillo, Texas)
|
Hello Rod
I got your message to Geoff!
Anthony
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----- Original Message ----- From: Rod Barton <r_barton@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 7:09 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Geoff, Please Help Hi Geoff,
When I checked my personal e-mail this evening, I found that I had
over 100 Felder egroup messages. Could you please suggest a way that
I can turn off all messages from being forwarded to my e-mail account.
Also, I noted that there is no longer a Vault Icon since the upgrade
this weekend or am I not accessing the system the right way.
Thanks,
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
|
Hi Geoff,
When I checked my personal e-mail this evening, I found that I had
over 100 Felder egroup messages. Could you please suggest a way that
I can turn off all messages from being forwarded to my e-mail account.
Also, I noted that there is no longer a Vault Icon since the upgrade
this weekend or am I not accessing the system the right way.
Thanks,
|
Geoff, As it turns out I am either blind or I was having a senior moment, I found it. Rich --- In felder-woodworking@..., "Geoff Shepherd" <geoff@s...> wrote: Richard - are you refering to your e-mail program or the web site
(hosted by eGroups). eGroups made some major changes to the web site over the weekend, so things might have been moved around a little.
..Geoff
--- In felder-woodworking@..., "Richard McComas"
<rmccomas@a...> wrote:
P.S. Is there no longer a reply button in messages or am I blind?
|
Richard - are you refering to your e-mail program or the web site (hosted by eGroups). eGroups made some major changes to the web site over the weekend, so things might have been moved around a little. ..Geoff --- In felder-woodworking@..., "Richard McComas" <rmccomas@a...> wrote: P.S. Is there no longer a reply button in messages or am I blind?
|
Re: Dust Collector to Mortise Machine connection
Charlie, I bought my 5" Flex hose form McMaster-Carr out of
California and even though I have no experience with Felder hose I
just can't imagine it being that much better than the hose I have.
From everyone description of the Felder Hose I would say the hose I
have dose every thing it does and it is clear. The 5" hose fits my
Felder AD7-41 just fine with a little electrical tape and the quick
change connector. I'm not in the shop now so I can't measure the
outlet on the mortiser right now but as I remember it the outside
diameter is about 3\8" less than the hose. Any other suggestion from
the group. Rich
P.S. Is there no longer a reply button in messages or am I blind?
|
Re: Dust Collector to Mortise Machine connection
I also used standard 5" CVD flex hose to hook up to my Jointer/Planer and
Table saw connection with the Felder quick connect right angle. 5 inch is a
little bigger than the 120mm nominal diameter of the Felder part, so the fit
is very loose. Since my connection is permanent, I used GE II clear
silicone to seal the hose and quick connect (as well as the stainless steel
hose clamp).
By the way, I bought some of the Felder (world's most expensive) hose and I
like the stuff! If I had not bought all my flex, I would definitely
consider using the Felder hose all the way around (after I get my wife a
second job to pay for it!). I bought CVD clear, and the stuff is heavy,
stiff and does not pack well. Felder hose (made by someone else, obviously)
uses a thinner helix wire and a different construction technique. It is
remarkably light, extremely flexible and you can compress it so that it
takes up a third of its regular volume for storage. It is not clear,
however, kind of an unattractive yellow, if that is an issue.
toggle quoted message
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-----Original Message----- From: Richard McComas <rmccomas@...> To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...> Date: Monday, April 03, 2000 9:38 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Dust Collector to Mortise Machine connection Group, When I bought my AF-22 LN dust collector I used 5 inch
flexible hose instead of the metric size that Felder sells because of
the difference in cost. I am now ready to hook up my DC to the slot
mortiser using the 5 inch hose( the one sits on the side of the
Jointer/Planers ) and was wondering if anyone else had accomplished
this using the 5 inch hose. If so what parts and pieces did you
used. Rich
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Dust Collector to Mortise Machine connection
Group, When I bought my AF-22 LN dust collector I used 5 inch
flexible hose instead of the metric size that Felder sells because of
the difference in cost. I am now ready to hook up my DC to the slot
mortiser using the 5 inch hose( the one sits on the side of the
Jointer/Planers ) and was wondering if anyone else had accomplished
this using the 5 inch hose. If so what parts and pieces did you
used. Rich
|
Re: Dust Collector to Mortise Machine connection
I use the Felder hose. While admittedly expensive it's really great stuff
and I'd recommend to anyone. It's very flexible, and I move it around my
machine from port to port as required. I just use the straight quick change
connector rather than the right angle. The flexibility of the hose makes the
right angle an unnecessary option as far as I'm concerned. The little loss
in flow is more than compensated by the huge FB-22 vacuum.
Larry Johnson
|
Re: Using large (non-precision) bits with the mortising attachment
Chuck-
I have read your previous posting regarding your mortise bit situation.
It seems as though the rotation of the mortise bit is conflicting with the
grain of your workpiece. If you are using the precision mortise bits and
have the reversing switch on your machine, try using it in reverse rotation.
Cheers - Tom Van Alstyne
|
Re: Using large (non-precision) bits with the mortising attachment
Hello Chuck:
Its sounds like you are over-running and hitting uncut wood with the full
depth of your mortising bit. I've never used the Felder attachment, but I
assume its an x-y table. If thats the case, then the stops for horizontal
travel may not be at the precise endpoint where you made your last plunge
cut. Or, alternatively, the stop could have a tiny amount of slop in it,
allowing you to overrun your stop point when you make your cleanout cut.
You might try moving your stop in a hair after your make your rightmost
plunge cut.
Another thought. Could you be running counter to the bit rotation? The
last mortiser I worked on - an older Ulmia - required me to start my cut on
the right, if I remember correctly, and work toward the left. I never
tried it the other way so I don't know what would happen if I tried what
would be a climb cut on a router.
Good luck - Seth
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----- Original Message ----- From: arnoldman <arnoldman@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 10:26 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Using large (non-precision) bits with the mortising attachment John, I checked both possibilities you mentioned and neither is the case.
This bothers me.
Anyone have any idea what could be causing this problem?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: John Renzetti <J.Renzetti@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 7:27 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Using large (non-precision) bits with the mortising attachment
Chuck, I just went out to the shop and checked my mortiser. I'm
wondering if one of the stops is loose or the machine is not completely
locked into the jointer on one side. I found that if the mortising
transporter is not completely locked to the jointer than you can get some slight rocking which could cause the table to move further causing the
bit to take a big bite out of the workpiece on that side.
Hope this helps.
Take care,
John Renzetti
----- Original Message -----
From: arnoldman <arnoldman@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 11:21 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Using large (non-precision) bits with the
mortising attachment
I'm finding something troublesome with my new mortising attachment (rolled
up to BF7-41). After a discussion with Wolfgang, I was able to use my 18mm
& 20mm mortising bits without constantly knocking the bits loose. My
technique was wrong. I was plunging and then trying to traverse the
mortise, as the BF7-41 instruction manual says. However, Wolfgang explained
to me that this only works with the precision (smaller than 18mm)
bits. After following his instruction to make adjacent cuts and then a
clean-out
pass, I am now able to keep the bit from coming loose. (This is
decidedly
a
good thing!)
HOWEVER.... I am experiencing something that concerns me. Even after
proceeding as I described above, when I move the table over to the
right side of the mortise, I am getting serious kickback at the end of the
mortise. NO kickback on the left... only on the right. It's making
for sloppy mortises on the right.
Anyone else experiencing this? Whadaheck am I doing wrong? Or is
this something I just have to live with?
Thanks,
Chuck
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Re: Using large (non-precision) bits with the mortising attachment
John, I checked both possibilities you mentioned and neither is the case.
This bothers me.
Anyone have any idea what could be causing this problem?
Chuck
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message ----- From: John Renzetti <J.Renzetti@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 7:27 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Using large (non-precision) bits with the mortising attachment Chuck, I just went out to the shop and checked my mortiser. I'm
wondering if one of the stops is loose or the machine is not completely
locked into the jointer on one side. I found that if the mortising
transporter is not completely locked to the jointer than you can get some
slight rocking which could cause the table to move further causing the bit
to take a big bite out of the workpiece on that side.
Hope this helps.
Take care,
John Renzetti
----- Original Message -----
From: arnoldman <arnoldman@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 11:21 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Using large (non-precision) bits with the
mortising attachment
I'm finding something troublesome with my new mortising attachment (rolled up to BF7-41). After a discussion with Wolfgang, I was able to use my 18mm
& 20mm mortising bits without constantly knocking the bits loose. My
technique was wrong. I was plunging and then trying to traverse the
mortise, as the BF7-41 instruction manual says. However, Wolfgang explained
to me that this only works with the precision (smaller than 18mm) bits.
After following his instruction to make adjacent cuts and then a
clean-out pass, I am now able to keep the bit from coming loose. (This is
decidedly a
good thing!)
HOWEVER.... I am experiencing something that concerns me. Even after
proceeding as I described above, when I move the table over to the right
side of the mortise, I am getting serious kickback at the end of the
mortise. NO kickback on the left... only on the right. It's making for
sloppy mortises on the right.
Anyone else experiencing this? Whadaheck am I doing wrong? Or is this
something I just have to live with?
Thanks,
Chuck
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My internet server crashed and I have not been able to post since.
This is only a test to verify that I'm back on line.
Thanks,
Rod B.
|
Re: Poor Man's Jigs-Mortising Dep't.
...anybody have clever jigs for mortising table indexing??? -Philip
Rod Barton wrote:
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Just posted four jig pictures to the vault under Rod Barton folder. A
friend took the photos, unfortunately the pictures are out of order but
at least you might get an idea or two for your own use.
Picture #1: Small jig used for accurately setting Jointer/Planer
knives. I have had no problem maintaining .001" accuracy across all
four blades when using this jig. Construction detail can be found in
message #177 although you will need to adjust the measurements to 2"
high x 1-3/4" wide x 2 inches deep. The centerline for the hole is
5/8" from the front. To use, set jig across the continuous arc of the
cutter head. Adjust dial to zero. Then resetting the jig to span
across the knife blade, adjust the knife until you read .035" and
tighten locking screw. I found that starting at the center of the
blade and adjust out to each end works best for me.
Picture #3: Large jig used to set planer table and then infeed &
outfeed rollers to within +/- .001" when using John Hartshorne's setup
instructions. See message #177 for construction details along with
John's setup instructions.
Picture #4: Jointer table setting jig. A cheap mans version of an
$80.00 jig. (John H. got all my money when I bought my BF6-31).
Picture #2: Jointer table setting jig, "bottom" showing 4 round inset
magnets which keep the jig from moving when making table adjustments.
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The pictures look nice. If you do not want to make the jig, Garrett Wade
sells a OneWay jig that I have. It has a heavy base and a dial indicator. I
think that it may be the cheap man's version that is mentioned below.
Multi-Gauge Machine Set Up Tool
84K04.01 PRECISION MULTI-GAUGE SET-UP TOOL $79.95
www.garrettwade.com
Scott
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-----Original Message-----
From: Rod Barton [mailto:r_barton@...]
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 8:16 PM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Poor Man's Jigs
Just posted four jig pictures to the vault under Rod Barton folder. A
friend took the photos, unfortunately the pictures are out of order but
at least you might get an idea or two for your own use.
Picture #1: Small jig used for accurately setting Jointer/Planer
knives. I have had no problem maintaining .001" accuracy across all
four blades when using this jig. Construction detail can be found in
message #177 although you will need to adjust the measurements to 2"
high x 1-3/4" wide x 2 inches deep. The centerline for the hole is
5/8" from the front. To use, set jig across the continuous arc of the
cutter head. Adjust dial to zero. Then resetting the jig to span
across the knife blade, adjust the knife until you read .035" and
tighten locking screw. I found that starting at the center of the
blade and adjust out to each end works best for me.
Picture #3: Large jig used to set planer table and then infeed &
outfeed rollers to within +/- .001" when using John Hartshorne's setup
instructions. See message #177 for construction details along with
John's setup instructions.
Picture #4: Jointer table setting jig. A cheap mans version of an
$80.00 jig. (John H. got all my money when I bought my BF6-31).
Picture #2: Jointer table setting jig, "bottom" showing 4 round inset
magnets which keep the jig from moving when making table adjustments.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Just posted four jig pictures to the vault under Rod Barton folder. A
friend took the photos, unfortunately the pictures are out of order but
at least you might get an idea or two for your own use.
Picture #1: Small jig used for accurately setting Jointer/Planer
knives. I have had no problem maintaining .001" accuracy across all
four blades when using this jig. Construction detail can be found in
message #177 although you will need to adjust the measurements to 2"
high x 1-3/4" wide x 2 inches deep. The centerline for the hole is
5/8" from the front. To use, set jig across the continuous arc of the
cutter head. Adjust dial to zero. Then resetting the jig to span
across the knife blade, adjust the knife until you read .035" and
tighten locking screw. I found that starting at the center of the
blade and adjust out to each end works best for me.
Picture #3: Large jig used to set planer table and then infeed &
outfeed rollers to within +/- .001" when using John Hartshorne's setup
instructions. See message #177 for construction details along with
John's setup instructions.
Picture #4: Jointer table setting jig. A cheap mans version of an
$80.00 jig. (John H. got all my money when I bought my BF6-31).
Picture #2: Jointer table setting jig, "bottom" showing 4 round inset
magnets which keep the jig from moving when making table adjustments.
|
Re: Electrical Controls on Thicknesser
Scott, When I first got my AD7-41 it did not have the electric lift kit and I thought that raising and lowering the planer table was something any real man could do. After a while I got to thinking about how nice it would be to just push the button and let electricity do the work. To make a long story short I was having a problem with the tables on my machine and since John Hartshorne was coming to look at them I ask him to bring a electric lift kit with him. I think the kit is the best thing since sliced bread it works great and I am happy I got it. Even though is not a necessity it is nice and I do not regret spending the money . Rich scott slater" <scot-@...> wrote: original article: =259 HI,
I am interested in the electric raise and lower on the thickness planer (not the numeric panel - only the buttons). My machine will be built in Austria next week (finally), so I cannot add it at the factory, it
would have to be installed here.
Do any of the members here have that feature, and if so are you happy
with it - is it worth the $840 + install? Thanks - Scott
|
Re: Splintering on cuts...
Philip:? Thank you.? I have the dial
indicator on a base and?also a granite plate I used to sharpen plane irons
before I started using plate glass which is a heck of lot lighter.?
Sid?
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----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 12:34
PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re:
Splintering on cuts...
...check runout with a dial indicator, usually mounted to a
base that sits solidly on the saw table - dial indicator plunger or finger can
be positioned to contact the arbor flange - sounds like a good place to start
searching for problems!? Check flatness against a granite plate, or
failing that, a piece of heavy glass will do a reasonable job...-P
dolsid wrote:
Philip:? Thank you for the tips.? I will
start working through them .? I am
new at this so I have some a
couple of "dumb" questions.? How do you get a
gauge next to the
arbor to measure its run out since the arbor is suspended
below the saw
bed.? The arbor on my machine has been modified to accommodate
a
dado set so I am interested in checking that first.? I was thinking of
setting the gauge on the table surface and measuring the distance to the
saw
blade as I rotate it by hand but this would include the blade's
plate
variations as well as the arbor's wobble.? Also how to do
measure the
blade's plate flatness?
???? -----
Original Message -----
From: "Philip Tamarkin"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March
29, 2000 6:32 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Splintering on cuts...
> I'm running an '88 BF-5 - has a scoring unit, but I haven't bothered
using
it 'cause
> I'm getting great cuts without splintering -
NB: I'm not running melamine
or 2-sided
> plastic laminate at
all, thank God, and I'll use the scorer if I do! -
here are the
>
secrets I know.
>
> 1.? Great blades make a difference -
flatness of plate is most crucial -
check a # of
> blades from
the same manufacturor, and you'll find quite a bit of latitude
in the
> plates.? If you get something within a couple of thousandths
of flat,
cherish it, and
> use it for your finest cuts.? I'm
running Felder's 96 tooth "Silent
Power", which does
> a good job
of non-splintering, and a 96 tooth Tenryu (stock blade, made to
fit
> Altendorf) that cuts perfectly-best I've ever used!? At about
$140 it's a
little less
> expensive than the Felder.? Don't
mess with a thin kerf - some cut clean,
but mostly
> the thin
plate distorts when overheated,? I'm sticking with only 3.2 mm
kerf
- saves
> resetting the fence every time I change a blade, too!?
Obviously,
razor-sharp (and with
> sides of teeth jointed during
sharpening) matters.
>
> 2.? Check arbor run-out on the
saw - best blade in the world will cut
badly if the
> arbor's out
- change bearings, if necessary, or have a machinist recut the
arbor
face
> accurately.
>
> 3.? Zero-clearance throat
plate will help a lot, but won't work w/your
machine.? The
>
BF-5 blade sits several inches away from the slider, so I can make an
insert, but
> haven't needed to.
>
> 4.? Try
to arrange that you're taking at least 1/2" or so off with every
cut.? The
> hairline cuts seem to want to splinter worse.
>
> 5.? USING EXTREME CAUTION AND A BLADE GUARD make your
cut with the blade
raised as high
> as possible - this results in
the tooth meeting the underside of the panel
as near to
>
parallel (no angle...) as possible, and will help minimize chip out.
>
> 6.? High angle ATB blades (30 degree...) have worked
well for me -
cove-faced tooth
> configuration works well when
sharp, but cut quality deteriorates rapidly,
and tend to
> go
from workably sharp to dead-dull without a moment's notice!
>
> Scorers are their own set of problems - try these tips, and maybe
you can
avoid!
> -Philip Tamarkin
> dolsid wrote:
>
> > Scott:? I didn't have any experience with combination
machines when I
bought
> > my 7-41 so I made some Rookie
mistakes. Two features I am thinking of
> > looking into field
modifications for are the electric drive for the
planer
> >
bed which you mentioned and a scoring unit.? Of the two I think the
scorning
> > unit is the best buy since I have not been to
achieve the quality of
tear
> > out free cross-cutting on the
Felder that I had with my own Woodworker
II
> > thin kerf
blade I used on an old Delta in the cabinet shop where I
rented
>
> shop time.? I have used a new 10' thin kerf Woodworker II (the old
one
was
> > replaced by Forrest when they found that their jig
had gotten out of
adjust
> > for drilling the pin holes in the
old one),? a 12" Woodworker II and a
12"
> > Felder blade
and a zero offset insert.? None of these blades produce a
tear
> > out free cross-cut Although the tear out is very small.?
I think the
reason
> > for this is the position of the insert
next to sliding table doesn't
allow
> > enough support even
with a zero clearance insert.? If some of the more
> >
experienced members of this group have anything they think I am doing
wrong,
> > I would appreciate hearing from them.? My
work- around is to set the
> > splitter below the top of the blade
when I need to make a scorning pass
> > before a cross-cut.?
With the planer you have to lower the bed enough to
> > allow the
dust cover to flip over to the jointer position before
lowering
>
> and locking the jointer beds in place.? I usually mill several
boards at
the
> > same time and after jointing I run all of
them through the same planer
> > setting insuring constant
thickness.? If you have a work flow which
requires
> >
going back and forth from the jointer to the planer, lowering the planer
bed
> > would get old fast.? An option I would suggest to
stay away from is for
> > using a dado set.? I still don't
have mine implemented and will have as
much
> > tied up in it
as one of the above.?????? ----- Original
Message -----
> > From: "Scott Slater" <scott@...>
> > To:
> > Sent:
Wednesday, March 29, 2000 1:39 PM
> > Subject:
[felder-woodworking] Electrical Controls on Thicknesser
> >
> > > HI,
> > >
> > > I am interested
in the electric raise and lower on the thickness
planer
> >
> (not the numeric panel - only the buttons). My machine will be built
in
> > > Austria next week (finally), so I cannot add it at
the factory, it
> > > would have to be installed here.
>
> >
> > > Do any of the members here have that feature,
and if so are you happy
> > > with it - is it worth the $840 +
install? Thanks - Scott
> > >
> > >
> >
>
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> > > To Post a message, send it to:??
felder-woodworking@...
> > > To Unsubscribe, send a
blank message to:
> > felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
> > >
> >
>
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> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
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Re: Splintering on cuts...
...check runout with a dial indicator, usually mounted to a base that sits
solidly on the saw table - dial indicator plunger or finger can be positioned
to contact the arbor flange - sounds like a good place to start searching
for problems!? Check flatness against a granite plate, or failing
that, a piece of heavy glass will do a reasonable job...-P
dolsid wrote:
Philip:? Thank you for the tips.? I will
start working through them .? I am
new at this so I have some a couple of "dumb" questions.? How
do you get a
gauge next to the arbor to measure its run out since the arbor is suspended
below the saw bed.? The arbor on my machine has been modified
to accommodate
a dado set so I am interested in checking that first.? I was thinking
of
setting the gauge on the table surface and measuring the distance to
the saw
blade as I rotate it by hand but this would include the blade's plate
variations as well as the arbor's wobble.? Also how to do measure
the
blade's plate flatness?
???? ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Tamarkin"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 6:32 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Splintering on cuts...
> I'm running an '88 BF-5 - has a scoring unit, but I haven't bothered
using
it 'cause
> I'm getting great cuts without splintering - NB: I'm not running
melamine
or 2-sided
> plastic laminate at all, thank God, and I'll use the scorer if I
do! -
here are the
> secrets I know.
>
> 1.? Great blades make a difference - flatness of plate is most
crucial -
check a # of
> blades from the same manufacturor, and you'll find quite a bit of
latitude
in the
> plates.? If you get something within a couple of thousandths
of flat,
cherish it, and
> use it for your finest cuts.? I'm running Felder's 96 tooth
"Silent
Power", which does
> a good job of non-splintering, and a 96 tooth Tenryu (stock blade,
made to
fit
> Altendorf) that cuts perfectly-best I've ever used!? At about
$140 it's a
little less
> expensive than the Felder.? Don't mess with a thin kerf - some
cut clean,
but mostly
> the thin plate distorts when overheated,? I'm sticking with
only 3.2 mm
kerf - saves
> resetting the fence every time I change a blade, too!? Obviously,
razor-sharp (and with
> sides of teeth jointed during sharpening) matters.
>
> 2.? Check arbor run-out on the saw - best blade in the world
will cut
badly if the
> arbor's out - change bearings, if necessary, or have a machinist
recut the
arbor face
> accurately.
>
> 3.? Zero-clearance throat plate will help a lot, but won't work
w/your
machine.? The
> BF-5 blade sits several inches away from the slider, so I can make
an
insert, but
> haven't needed to.
>
> 4.? Try to arrange that you're taking at least 1/2" or so off
with every
cut.? The
> hairline cuts seem to want to splinter worse.
>
> 5.? USING EXTREME CAUTION AND A BLADE GUARD make your cut with
the blade
raised as high
> as possible - this results in the tooth meeting the underside of
the panel
as near to
> parallel (no angle...) as possible, and will help minimize chip out.
>
> 6.? High angle ATB blades (30 degree...) have worked well for
me -
cove-faced tooth
> configuration works well when sharp, but cut quality deteriorates
rapidly,
and tend to
> go from workably sharp to dead-dull without a moment's notice!
>
> Scorers are their own set of problems - try these tips, and maybe
you can
avoid!
> -Philip Tamarkin
> dolsid wrote:
>
> > Scott:? I didn't have any experience with combination machines
when I
bought
> > my 7-41 so I made some Rookie mistakes. Two features I am thinking
of
> > looking into field modifications for are the electric drive for
the
planer
> > bed which you mentioned and a scoring unit.? Of the two I
think the
scorning
> > unit is the best buy since I have not been to achieve the quality
of
tear
> > out free cross-cutting on the Felder that I had with my own Woodworker
II
> > thin kerf blade I used on an old Delta in the cabinet shop where
I
rented
> > shop time.? I have used a new 10' thin kerf Woodworker II
(the old one
was
> > replaced by Forrest when they found that their jig had gotten out
of
adjust
> > for drilling the pin holes in the old one),? a 12" Woodworker
II and a
12"
> > Felder blade and a zero offset insert.? None of these blades
produce a
tear
> > out free cross-cut Although the tear out is very small.? I
think the
reason
> > for this is the position of the insert next to sliding table doesn't
allow
> > enough support even with a zero clearance insert.? If some
of the more
> > experienced members of this group have anything they think I am
doing
wrong,
> > I would appreciate hearing from them.? My work- around is
to set the
> > splitter below the top of the blade when I need to make a scorning
pass
> > before a cross-cut.? With the planer you have to lower the
bed enough to
> > allow the dust cover to flip over to the jointer position before
lowering
> > and locking the jointer beds in place.? I usually mill several
boards at
the
> > same time and after jointing I run all of them through the same
planer
> > setting insuring constant thickness.? If you have a work flow
which
requires
> > going back and forth from the jointer to the planer, lowering the
planer
bed
> > would get old fast.? An option I would suggest to stay away
from is for
> > using a dado set.? I still don't have mine implemented and
will have as
much
> > tied up in it as one of the above.??????
----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Scott Slater"
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 1:39 PM
> > Subject: [felder-woodworking] Electrical Controls on Thicknesser
> >
> > > HI,
> > >
> > > I am interested in the electric raise and lower on the thickness
planer
> > > (not the numeric panel - only the buttons). My machine will be
built
in
> > > Austria next week (finally), so I cannot add it at the factory,
it
> > > would have to be installed here.
> > >
> > > Do any of the members here have that feature, and if so are you
happy
> > > with it - is it worth the $840 + install? Thanks - Scott
> > >
> > >
> >
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