开云体育

Group,

I find that if I'm in a hurry when I post replies I seem to make
grammatical errors. I am not a touch typist, more of a slam typist. So
now that that is cleared up, if your not clear on something I post let
me know.
Thanks,
JH

Richard,
I will check another machine tomorrow and get back to you ASAP. Do you
need another handle now? Are you relasing the tension off the black
adjustment knob when you finishinh adjusting and locking the table?
What happens when you press down on the outfeed edge of the out feed
table, does it cause the edge closest to the cutterhead to rise?
JH



"richard mccomas" <rmccoma-@...> wrote:
original article:
=193

Group, Just wandering how many owners of Felder's jointer/planer
machines are having the same problem that I am having. I have a

AD-41,

the 16" combo. I can't keep the out feed table in adjustment. It
appear the table has some kind of tension on it that forces the table
to slowly raise over a period of a day or two until the table is

higher

than the knives. I have always made sure that the locking lever is
securely tightened and the adjusting nut is back off. In fact today
after adjusting it again I applied enough force to brake the plastic
off. Rich

Wow - we're up to 64 members already! This is shaping up to be an invaluable
resource for all of us.

I just wanted to post a note welcoming all the new members and point out a
few items of interest.

There is a group web site at


If you haven't been there already, you will probably be prompted for an
eGroups user name and password. If you don't have one set up already, it
lets you do that and if very easy to do. Once you get to the web site you
can go to the "Group Information" page and modify your subscription options
if you like. For example, you can have the forum messages sent to your
e-mail box, or you may set it for reading on the web page only.

You can read/search previous messages (for example "X31 vs. Felder"), as
well as post new messages to the group or to individual members. You may
also access the shared calendar of events, the survey room, and the document
vault. The vault is where we can share photographs, articles, web links, and
diagrams. There is lots of stuff there already, so go check out the vault if
you haven't yet. It's also easy to upload your own contributions to the
vault. If you have a personal web site, feel free to post your link in the
Link folder.


Scott requested that we fill out at least our geographical location
information in our member profiles. You can do this by going to the
"Members" directory listing on the web site and clicking on your own name:


Someday, it might be interesting to create a graphical map showing push-pins
where everyone is located. Hmm....

If you have any questions or need help, send of an e-mail to one of the
forum "managers" (marked with a red "M") in the member directory. This
includes John Renzetti, Scott Slater, and myself.

Have a good week, everyone...
--
Geoff Shepherd
mailto:Geoff@...

This should clear up and confusion.

How true, how true.

Paul

Group, Just wandering how many owners of Felder's jointer/planer
machines are having the same problem that I am having. I have a AD-41,
the 16" combo. I can't keep the out feed table in adjustment. It
appear the table has some kind of tension on it that forces the table
to slowly raise over a period of a day or two until the table is higher
than the knives. I have always made sure that the locking lever is
securely tightened and the adjusting nut is back off. In fact today
after adjusting it again I applied enough force to brake the plastic
off. Rich

I will check on that, it only happens when it is cold out. It is quite warm
here today (80 degrees or so), so I do not think it will be an issue. I will
try it tonight when it cools off. Thanks

Scott

To the group,
Planers require that the cutterhead be be level to the planer table. So
in this case you measure from the cutterhead to the table until both
side are even.
If your are adjusting a jointer/Planer then the jointer table is
leveled to the cutterhad as well then the knives are set to the table.
I the case of most felder machines the flatness of the table is good
enough to not affect the knife to planer table relationship. ( which
should be even as well)

However, all other adjustments to the planer will require measurement
from the arc of the knives with respect to the hight of the infeed,
outfeed rollers,
Chip breaker and second preasure bar.

This should clear up and confusion.
JH

Scott,
Thanks for the quick come back.
I suspect that we are dealing with a problem that stems from the
mechanical starter. On the AF22 you have a start and stop button but
this system is moving a lever which snaps a set of three contacts into
place quickly. It stay in place until it is released by the stop switch
or it is tripped by the current overload.
My feeling is we have some sort of mechanical interference or a faulty
contact point. Do you notice that if you push harder on the botton it
helps?

At any rate I will organize a new switch for you to replace the old one.
Send me an E-mail letting me kno what time is best and what number you
would like me to use.
john@...






"scott slater" <scot-@...> wrote:
original article:
=186

Dear Paul,
The planer head is used to set the flatness of the jointer tables and
the level of the planer table. All other settings for the planer are
measured from the lowest arc of the knives. The ONEWAY gauge wil come
with a large anvil which will allow you to clearly measure the arc of
the knife
JH


"paul schumacher" <pdsch-@...> wrote:
original article:
=183

Thanks to Rod, John, and John for the help. I had to work today and

tomorrow

so I haven't done anything today on the planer. I think the dial

gauge is

the way to go and since I don't own one I think the Oneway is the way

to go.

I'll order one and then try the suggestions you made regarding

checking the

table. I am still not clear as to whether you use the nadir of the

blade or

the planner drum for the calibration. Thanks, Paul

John Hartshorne was recently to my shop to set up my AD-41. The first
thing he did and told me was to set the outfeed table parallel to the
cutter head. He said the cutter head is the heart of the machine and
is the reference point for everything else. He then set the infeed
table co-planer the outfeed table then set the knifes parallel to the
outfeed table.


jim voos <jvoo-@...> wrote:
original article:
=187

Really?

Interesting, I am assuming the knifes have been set parallel to the

outfeed

table on the JOINTER originally. Isn't that the reference to which
everything else will be set? John H., what are your thoughts about

this?

Should the cutterbody be parallel to the outfeed of the JOINTER as

well, and

then set the knifes parallel, followed by the Planer set ups?

jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Rod Barton [mailto:r_barton@...]
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2000 10:42 PM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Outfeed roller


Paul,

May I suggest you use the cutterhead body and not the knives. The
reasoning behind this is that unless the knives are set exactly
parallel to the cuttterhead you run the risk of being further out of
tolerance than if you use the cutterhead body as your point of
reference.

Hope this helps.
Rod


"paul schumacher" <pdsch-@...> wrote:
original article:

rt

=183

Thanks to Rod, John, and John for the help. I had to work today and

tomorrow

so I haven't done anything today on the planer. I think the dial

gauge is

the way to go and since I don't own one I think the Oneway is the

way

to go.

I'll order one and then try the suggestions you made regarding

checking the

table. I am still not clear as to whether you use the nadir of the

blade or

the planner drum for the calibration. Thanks, Paul

---------------------------------------------------------------------

---

To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

Really?

Interesting, I am assuming the knifes have been set parallel to the outfeed
table on the JOINTER originally. Isn't that the reference to which
everything else will be set? John H., what are your thoughts about this?
Should the cutterbody be parallel to the outfeed of the JOINTER as well, and
then set the knifes parallel, followed by the Planer set ups?

jim

Hi,

I have an AF22 LN, 3 phase. When it is cold (in Southern CA, which
means about 55 degrees), sometimes I will hit the start button on the
DC, it will hum, and not start. I will then hit stop, then start, it
will start and run as normal.

I was wondering if I have the power hooked up wrong. I have the wires
(from phase converter) T1, T2, T3 hooked up to the corresponding spots
on the plug (there are notations on the plug). I am using the European
3 phase plug. Could I have the manufactured phase T3 hooked up to the
starter on the motor? I checked the no load voltage from the coverter
T1-T3 = 260, T2-T3 = 275 (within the specs for the converter). What
line is the starter connected to on the motor T1 T2 or T3. If there is
a way to visually see this, could you let me know this.

BTW, John this is what the note on your desk is regarding.

Scott

Paul,

May I suggest you use the cutterhead body and not the knives. The
reasoning behind this is that unless the knives are set exactly
parallel to the cuttterhead you run the risk of being further out of
tolerance than if you use the cutterhead body as your point of
reference.

Hope this helps.
Rod


"paul schumacher" <pdsch-@...> wrote:
original article:
=183

Thanks to Rod, John, and John for the help. I had to work today and

tomorrow

so I haven't done anything today on the planer. I think the dial

gauge is

the way to go and since I don't own one I think the Oneway is the way

to go.

I'll order one and then try the suggestions you made regarding

checking the

table. I am still not clear as to whether you use the nadir of the

blade or

the planner drum for the calibration. Thanks, Paul

Hi guys,

Finally I updated the FELDER USA homepage. The design of our new
homepage is a ongoing process. I would welcome any comments,
suggestions and tips on how to furhter improve it. You can send me your
comments directly to wolfgang@...

thanks
Wolfgang

Thanks to Rod, John, and John for the help. I had to work today and tomorrow
so I haven't done anything today on the planer. I think the dial gauge is
the way to go and since I don't own one I think the Oneway is the way to go.
I'll order one and then try the suggestions you made regarding checking the
table. I am still not clear as to whether you use the nadir of the blade or
the planner drum for the calibration. Thanks, Paul

Dennis, there are pictures in the vault of the new machines, and there
was also a short discussion of some of the improvements. Get to the web
site:



and look/search through the messages... you can also get to the vault
from there - the pictures are in the "New Machines" folder.

..Geoff

"dennis l. jacob" <dljaco-@...> wrote:
(snip)

4 or 5 group combo or table saw/shaper and joiner/planner units. Since
Felder hasn't mentioned the "new" 700 series, does anybody know what
changes or differences there are with the old models? Thanks again

for

you insight. Dennis L. Jacob

Dear Leo,
These work well, just remember to check the height of the bushing
stack. If it is to tall when you tighten down your collars and they hit
the bushing, it will be crushed and you will have trouble getting the
whole assembly off the spindle.
But I'm sure you are careful.
Have fun,
JH


"leo lopez" <leozepolus-@...> wrote:
original article:
=167

For those who are interested, I was able to find well machined

bushings

for using 1-1/4" tooling on a 30mm spindle. Amana's catalog No.

BU-566

is just such a bushing. This was not easy to find since the required
wall thickness for this spindle adaptation is a fraction of a
millimeter. Total cost for two bushings was $20.00.

Dear Scott,

What kind of finish did you get when you used that Beamer. Any snipe on
the out feed. How about cut off, I'll bet you could cut of who ever you
want. And I'm sure its got more than two feed speeds.
I had a not on my desk to call you. Let me know whats up. I'll write
back ASAP
JH




"scott slater" <scot-@...> wrote:
original article:
=166

Hi all,

This has nothing to do with woodworking, but I have often heard the
comparison of Felder to BMW. Today I went to the Ultimate Driving
Experience, at Hollywood Park (near Los Angeles). It was a 2 hour
driving school with the new BMW SUV X5, it was free and lots of fun.
There were professional drivers teaching you how to drive a car like
you would not believe. You get to drive the car at its limits,

learning

quite a bit. It was one of the most exciting things I have done in a
long time.

The program tours the country, check out www.bmwusa.com - go to events
then to the Ultimate Driving Experience.

I know that it will be in San Francisco next month. It will also be in
Dallas & Miami. You do not have to own a BMW to take part in it. If

you

have the time and like to drive, check it out. -- Scott

Dear Rod,
Great feed back. Thank you, I'm please you found the info useful. I
like you gauge setup. I now carry a ONEWAY gauge with me when ever I
travel. I bought it from Garrett Wade $78.00 and it is really easy to
use.
Talk to you soon.
JH






"rod barton" <r_barto-@...> wrote:
original article:
=177

Good morning Paul,
I too have experience what you have described. I found that the

planer

table was not adjusted exactly parallel with the cutter head. May I
suggest you use a dial indicator (one that shows in .001" graduations
is best) mounted in a holding stand to ensure your planer bed is
parallel to the cutter head. Once the planner bed is parallel you

then

adjust the infeed and outfeed rollers to be parallel with the planer
bed. Attached is an e-mail that John Hartshorne sent me giving
directions and the necessary tolerances you will want to use.

Here are the instructions for the holding jig I built for my 2"
diameter dial indicator:

The stand looks like box, which has had the front, and bottom cut

out.

I made the sides and a back with 1/4" material (massonite is a good

and

stable material that can be used but shop scrapes work just as well)
and the top is 3/4". The completed outside dimensions are 4-1/2"

tall,

3-1/2" wide and 3" deep. The bottom of the sides look like an upside
down U with each leg portion that touches the table being a 1/4" x

1/4".

To accomplish this I started with a board that was 9-1/8" long by
2-3/4" wide. Using the diagonal corners I found the center of the
board and marked it. I then drilled a hole with a 2-1/4" forstner

bit.

If you don't have a drill bit this large you could use a bandsaw or
coping saw. I then cut the board in half (4-1/2" x 2-3/4") through

the

middle of the hole. Next I cut the top 3" x 2-3/4", I then drilled a
hole through the center of top that corresponds to the diameter of the
holding post of the dial indicator. To hold the dial indicator in
place I drilled a hole through the front edge of the board and tapped

a

thumbscrew so it would make contact with the holding post (don't over
tighten when in use). I assembled the top and sides together. Make
sure you have a very flat surface and that everything is square when
doing this. Next attach the back (4-1/4" x 3-1/2"), you will want to
leave a 1/4" gap at the bottom so that it does not make contact with
the planer table. Once the assembly is dry you should sand the legs
exactly flat using 320 grit sandpaper laid on a perfectly flat

surface.

The last thing to do is mount the dial indicator upside down so the
indicator tip is facing up.
To use, lower the planer table at least six inched below the
cutterhead. Set the indicator directly below the lowest arc of the
cutterhead then raise till you make contact with the cutterhead (not
the knives). By moving the dial indicator forward and back you will
find the absolute lowest point of the arc. Move the indicator from

one

side of the planer bed to the other and determine the lowest point of
the arc.
Using John's instructions adjust the table accordingly until both

sides

are within one .001" of an inch. It's not difficult just a little

time

consuming.
You can then use the same procedure to adjust the infeed and outfeed
rollers using their respective adjustments. If these instructions are
not clear enough please let me know.
Sorry but I do not have a camera to show you the completed jig.


Here is John's description:

When adjusting the planer table all measurements are taken from the
lowest
arc of the cutterhead. You would place your indicator beneath the
cutterhead
pointing up move the cutterhead until you find the bottom arc of its
diameter. Now check both sides of the planer table to see it the table
is
level to the cutterhead.

If it needs adjustment this will need to be done first.
To adjust the table, you will find there are four inverted bolts under
the
table surrounding the column. Between the column flange and table

there

are
four hollow bolts, the inverted bolts pass through these. By loosening
the
inverted bolts then adjusting the hollow bolts slightly the table can

be

corrected. Warning! don' adjust more than one bolt set at a time. A
correction of .005" may require the slight adjustment of just one set.
Make
your adjustment, then measure, then adjust again if needed.

You would place your indicator beneath the cutterhead pointing up move
the
cutterhead until you find the bottom arc of the knives. Move the
cutterhead
back and forth until you can measure the lowest point of any knife.

Once the lowest point is found then don't move your gauge, just rotate
the
outer dial to align the zero with the needle. This is now the zero

point

reference. All future measurements will refer to this setting. So it

is

very important to take you time and measure it carefully.

Now that the zero point is established we move on to the corresponding
height of the infeed and out feed rollers.

The feed rollers should be lowered to a position lower than the finial
set
position. To do this, turn the adjusting bolts clockwise, on both

sides,

which will lower the roller before you begin to work toward the finial
set up.
The jam nuts that you found to be loose before you started should be
tightened to a snug condition. Once this is done the action of turning
the
adjustment bolts counterclockwise will keep the lock nut tight and
allow the
rollers to be adjusted while everything is under tension. When working
on a
FELDER "under tension" is the operative term.

The infeed roller should hang between .015 " to .020" below the arc of
the
knife. You will measure this the same way that you measured the arc

of

the
knife. Remember don't move the zero point on the gauge. (However,

check

your
gauge so that your are familiar with which way to read it.)

The outfeed roller should hang between .020 " to .025" below the arc

of

the
knife. You will measure this the same way that you measured the arc

of

the
knife. Remember don't move the zero point on the gauge.

This should get you very close and allow you machine to function
properly.

Good luck,


"paul schumacher" <pdsch-@...> wrote:
original article:

rt

=175

I have had a little problem with the planer in that when thickness

planing a 6-7 inch wide board it runs smoothly until the last 4-5
inches and then hesitates or stops until I assist it by pulling it

out.

I spoke to John Hartshorne today and he recommended cleaning the table
very well which I did and then to try lowering the outfeed roller a
little at a time. I did this to the point where the shaft of the
roller is almost touching the housing so I"m not sure I can lower it
much more. It has helped but not solved the problem. I am still in

the

process of adjusting. Has anyone else had a similar problem and a
solution. I will call John back next week but alas the weekend is

here.

Dear Paul,

There is a catch 22 when adjusting Rollers. If the roller is not about
.015-.020 below the arc of the knife then the wood won't feed. If the
roller is to low am the peice of wood contacts the roller at or upove
the tangent of the roller diameter the the wood won't feed. If the
spring pressure is to tight the downward presure will also cause enough
interference to prevent smooth feeding.
Don't be afraid to call me when your working on it.
Thanks,
JH



"paul schumacher" <pdsch-@...> wrote:
original article:
=175

I have had a little problem with the planer in that when thickness

planing a 6-7 inch wide board it runs smoothly until the last 4-5
inches and then hesitates or stops until I assist it by pulling it out.
I spoke to John Hartshorne today and he recommended cleaning the table
very well which I did and then to try lowering the outfeed roller a
little at a time. I did this to the point where the shaft of the
roller is almost touching the housing so I"m not sure I can lower it
much more. It has helped but not solved the problem. I am still in the
process of adjusting. Has anyone else had a similar problem and a
solution. I will call John back next week but alas the weekend is here.