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Re: Lamb Parallel Fence Old Style
I have an F coupling mounting head, but if he wants the old style rod and such, those are long gone. It would be a linear rail now. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, April 26, 2025 at 06:35:47 PM MST, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
I would think that Brian could help you out with that he must still make them for the F coupling, Mac,,, martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 24, 2025, at 3:07?PM, john hejmanowski via groups.io <johnhejmanowski@...> wrote:
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Re: Lamb Parallel Fence Old Style
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI would think that Brian could help you out with that he must still make them for the F coupling,Mac,,, martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 24, 2025, at 3:07?PM, john hejmanowski via groups.io <johnhejmanowski@...> wrote:
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Re: Spindle/Shaper woes
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThe cutters and the bushings that fit on the shaft should fit on it pretty snug. I wouldn¡¯t advise using any anti-seize as those parts do not move if you¡¯re sleeves and are so snug that they don¡¯t feel like they move take another sleeve and tap it on top of it. It will loosen it up if that¡¯s not the case and there¡¯s something wrong with the shaft..I would say it¡¯s OK to use aunti sneeze on the screw if there is a screw or if there is a set screw to hold the bushing on top down and see on the threaded screw would be fine, but not on the shaft my advice is just based on many years of experience being around shapers and never seen anti seeze a shaft. I might be wrong though, and there are other folks on this site that probably have more experience than I do that on this subject. The critical thing on the shaft and the cutter and the bushings is that everything is extremely clean, never dropped and carefully handled because it¡¯s pretty damn easy to bend a shaft with a ding on one of the bushings Cutters gull when they are not properly clamped on the spindle and with Felder¡¯s, making sure the Cap is not seating on the top of the spindle. Mac,, 4 martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 26, 2025, at 11:47?AM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
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Re: Spindle/Shaper woes
If you have polished off the galled spots on the shaft and the cutters, then I would add some anti-seize when you put a cutter on there and make sure you lock it down tight and you don't have anything to loose. As long as the shaft isn't bent, which you can put an indicator on that pretty easy to make sure. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, April 26, 2025 at 05:10:52 AM MST, Paul Mc Cann via groups.io <tpmccann@...> wrote:
My CF 731 has a dust collector polycarbonate shroud around the cutter head on the spindle moulder (shaper). This became dislodged and collided with a large rebate (rabbet) cutter , 150mm x 50mm (6" x 2"). Whether this caused the subsequent problem or not but the cutter seized on the spindle shaft. Lots of WD40 and brute force dislodged it but the spacer rings under it would not slide off. I applied cloth strip to the shaft as it rotated under power and this did the trick.
My question will the shaft be damaged beyond use? It rotates smoothly with no detectable wobble by eye when powered up. Will the cutter head be up tthe left as well? I'm tempted to just try it but fear the cutter will just get? seized again. Or will I just buy a new shaft. I have the high speed router shaft as well so I'm not complete;y stuck.
Why do these things always happen in the middle of? a job.
?
Thanks for any assistance
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Paul Mc Cann
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Spindle/Shaper woes
My CF 731 has a dust collector polycarbonate shroud around the cutter head on the spindle moulder (shaper). This became dislodged and collided with a large rebate (rabbet) cutter , 150mm x 50mm (6" x 2"). Whether this caused the subsequent problem or not but the cutter seized on the spindle shaft. Lots of WD40 and brute force dislodged it but the spacer rings under it would not slide off. I applied cloth strip to the shaft as it rotated under power and this did the trick.
My question will the shaft be damaged beyond use? It rotates smoothly with no detectable wobble by eye when powered up. Will the cutter head be up tthe left as well? I'm tempted to just try it but fear the cutter will just get? seized again. Or will I just buy a new shaft. I have the high speed router shaft as well so I'm not complete;y stuck.
Why do these things always happen in the middle of? a job.
?
Thanks for any assistance
--
Paul Mc Cann |
Re: Shaper hose replacment KF 700
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Mike, If the hose exits low on the cabinet, why do you need to mess with the PF. In my case, The hose exits thru the tilt bracket. May be a picture will help. If you rest the PF on the cast iron there will not be any weight on the F channel interface. This may be okay, as long as the PF and the stand is stable and does not wobble left or right. I did the opposite which places weight on the F channel and it hung in a stable manner. It does force the lower part of the tilt bracket into the machine but I was still able to pull the plastic cover out. I still don¡¯t know why you need to remove the plastic cover if the hose exits lower on the cabinet. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations On Apr 25, 2025, at 7:55?PM, TMichael WARD via groups.io <tmikko@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran. My power feeder too is resting .? My 2008 machine also rests on the F rail, but has an. 80 mm hose which is? longer, as it goes down to the bottom edge of the cabinet.
Based on your experience, I'll try to spin the power feeder over to the saw deck, unweight it by lowering to the table, and maybe lift the inner part of the? tube so that when I undo the mounting bolts I can pull it out far enough to free the plastic shroud. Then hopefully can get at the upper hose connection.? And see if I can persuade my 3D printing friends to make me two 80 mm to 2.5" adapters. Mike
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Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
Update:
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Bought Metabo NP50A, it is $120 on Amazon:
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At 80 PSI it drove 1 3/8¡± pins consistently. It is advertised to handle up to 2¡± but 1 3/8¡± is the longest I had as that was the limit for the Grex I bought and returned. It drives as short as 1/2¡±.
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I feel comfortable with keeping this as I have 20 PSI head room and would not care if it did not drive 2¡± all the way.
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Imran
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Re: Shaper hose replacment KF 700
Thanks Imran. My power feeder too is resting .? My 2008 machine also rests on the F rail, but has an. 80 mm hose which is? longer, as it goes down to the bottom edge of the cabinet.
Based on your experience, I'll try to spin the power feeder over to the saw deck, unweight it by lowering to the table, and maybe lift the inner part of the? tube so that when I undo the mounting bolts I can pull it out far enough to free the plastic shroud. Then hopefully can get at the upper hose connection.? And see if I can persuade my 3D printing friends to make me two 80 mm to 2.5" adapters. Mike |
Dovetail (S Clamp) rip fence extension (hunting for a Unicorn)
Long ago, Felder made a male / female dovetail fitting extension piece in cast iron to extend the capacity of the rip fence on the universal machine.
Neglectfully I never bought one at the time, but years later one would be particularly useful.
Before i dig the milling machine out of storage and push my engineering skill to there limits I will raise 3 questions to the group.
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Is there one of these lying dusty and un used on a shelf that someone would like to part with? If so can we discuss a price?
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If you are unwilling to part with the one you have, would you be willing to post an accurate set of cross section dimensions sufficient to replicate this .
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Apologies if this has been raised in the past but a search of previous posts has not yeildd a result for the dovetail dimensions.
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Thanks
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Paul |
Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
That's how Harvey delivered my dust collector. I had the audacity to assume it was standard. Stan Sent from for iOS On Wed, Apr 23, 2025 at 08:20, Larry Long Neck via groups.io <longneckwood@...> wrote:
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Nova Viking Performance and Experience
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAs it was mentioned earlier here, Nova¡¯s US arm is going thru chapter 11 reorganization. Appears they liquidated Nova Viking via Grizzly. It cost me $1187 delivered with lift gate charge ($500 off list price). Bit of a let down, I was told by Grizzly CS that extended warranty is included in purchase price but it turned out not to be the case. I was able to assemble the unit myself. Just scooted the column to the edge of the styrofoam so I can attach the base. Then lifted it up. Talking about the base it is not as big or as substantial as my current Delta 17-900. Although, I found it to be stable. For heavy and long metal work, it would be best to secure the base someway. It is not mentioned anywhere but it must have soft start as there is no startup torque induced vibration, something I am used to experiencing on my Delta. Couple of minor issues. Morse taper was scratched. Nova sent a replacement, took longer than I like but there was no resistance. Apparently they are working with a skeleton crew. I could not find a place to attach the chuck key holder other than removing one of the screws that holds the top cover and screwing it in that location. No mention in the manual either. I prefer a simple magnet for this but here is how I mounted it. The manual is decent but not perfect by any means. I will need to come up with a speed chart that I can mount on the DP. My Delta has one on the machine and it is very handy. One other thing, it requires a 3900 J surge protector. This Eaton model set me back $85. I wanted a smaller unit but could not find one, I guess it is not a big deal. |
There is no runout to speak of at the taper.
Not sure how important this is, but the chuck outside is within 0.001¡±.
Then I chucked a new 15/32 bit and checked runout on shank on the top and it measured +/- 0.001¡±. I don¡¯t have a precise shaft to indicate down couple of inches to see how accurate it really is but so far so good.
I thought that I would need to buy an expensive chuck to get this type of performance, so naturally I am very satisfied.
Just drilled the first hole (1/2¡±) in the plastic. Very nice and crisp hole. It is to install a panel mount fuse holder. The plastic cover could not be easily held perfectly vertical the way it is constructed and I noticed that the laser is slightly off. I will try a flat piece to double check before messing with re-alignment of the laser.
HTH anyone, considering to buy a Viking. I assume Voyger is just as good if not better.
Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations