felderownersgroup@groups.io

Re: Need 12" digital caliper Aaron Inami All Messages By This Member #140807 Thanks Imran, I had forgotten about Shars! ? Thanks for all the suggestions.?? Out of all of them, I liked the Shars IP67 model the best and ended up ordering one (plus a couple of accessories): ? ? -Aaron Inami
Re: Need 12" digital caliper Jonathan Smith Member Profile All Messages By This Member #140806 Igaging makes low cost decent quality measuring tools.? 12" on Amazon is $86.? Has a "2 years" warranty.
Re: Need 12" digital caliper imran All Messages By This Member #140805 开云体育 I saw most of the ones recommended here but bought Shars because IP54 construction was important to me. Shars DPS is an absolute origin as well. It doesn’t not require origin resetting once it is set. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Apr 7, 2025, at 9:21?AM, KRPatel via groups.io <kamalsonal@...> wrote: ? Purchased an Absolute Origin digital caliper not long ago from Chipsfly...believe they also have 12"+ versions.?? Kamal Patel ?
Re: Need 12" digital caliper KRPatel All Messages By This Member #140804 Purchased an Absolute Origin digital caliper not long ago from Chipsfly...believe they also have 12"+ versions.?? Kamal Patel ?
Re: KF 700 - shutting off as blade touches wood imran All Messages By This Member #140803 开云体育 Hi David, Just FYI, I have helped 2 members with Felder VFD setup where the reverse light is not an indicator of the status of the 24VAC string with all switches. It only is an indicator of 24VAC presence. Also, Kyle should know that if it is the overload relay it will reset in 2 to 3 minutes and power cycling is not necessary. You misunderstood me. I had a case where moving the slider cut the machine off but it was due to the slider switch circuit. I was merely saying that same could be happening here depending upon where his outrigger is and it may appear that touching the blade with material is the cause but infact it is just slider movement. Long shot and don’t even know if he is even using the slider. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Apr 7, 2025, at 1:07?AM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ?Yes - “most” but not “all”. ?Even though, as he says, "don't even have a head to toss on” the shaper, just turning on the shaper spindle and observe the yellow “reverse” light would tell a lot about the condition. ?I seriously doubt the outrigger position or contacting the blade would trigger the machine to shut down unless it’s triggering the stop circuit via vibration. ?The idea the outrigger position or blade contact would disrupt the 24V circuit is tin-foil-hat thinking IMO. ?Since his machine is single-phase, there could be an issue with he internal VFD, but his statement "Able to switch off and back on at machine so does not come back on without cycling power switch” suggests to me that it’s the stop-circuit as the culprit here. ?I would suggest the following. ?When the machine stops during a cut, cycle the reverse switch on the shaper and observe the yellow indicator light to see if it turns on. ?Report here. ?If that light does illuminate when the reverse switch is toggled, then it’s probably not the stop-circuit at fault here, and more likely a bad relay, or some other issue with the VFD. ? If that light does not illuminate, then it’s most likely the stop circuit, which could be one of the microswitches, bad connection to the “Stop” button switches, dirty slider bearing ways, or poor connection from the electronic panel to the stop switches. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best On Apr 6, 2025, at 4:25?PM, imran via groups.io <imranwoodshop@...> wrote: Hi David, Not sure if you got all msgs but Kyle responded to most if not all questions. I have heard of this happening when xcutting on the slider, not necessarily with material hitting the blade though. However, depending upon where the outrigger is positioned on the slider, it may seem like the material contacting the blade is causing the shutdown but in reality it is just that the slider has travelled a certain amount causing a break in signal as you mentioned. Besides cleaning the ways it may also be prudent to check the wiring related to the slider switches as well. Kyle mentioned he was ripping, so not sure if the slider was locked while he was doing the ripping. That would make a dirty micro switch a possible culprit. Another possibility is the overload relay that senses current. Brian also mentioned this. This is usually labeled as 2K1 in the electrical cabinet. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations On Apr 6, 2025, at 6:18?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ?There is not enough information here for us to really be helpful. ?Please reply with answers to Brian’s questions. ?Without hearing more, I’d be very suspicious that the issue is related to the stop circuit connected through the sliding table to the switches at “the end of the wagon.” ? That circuit runs through the bearings, and if that circuit is broken (for just a millisecond) because of poor contact induced by the vibration of the saw starting to cut, that would produce the behavior you observe. ?Try cleaning the bearing ways of the lower and upper sliding table extrusions. ?Douse it with a solvent like WD-40, run the slider back and forth several times, then clean the ways several times to remove the solvent. ?Of course there are a bunch of other possibilities, but I’d start with that. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best On Apr 6, 2025, at 1:50?PM, Kyle Stiefel via groups.io <kstiefel@...> wrote: Update: ? So went through everything getting dust out of all the nooks and crannies as the day went on.? ? Initially it let me then restart the saw from the wagon or frame without recycling the on/off but would still cut out when I tried to cut about 3/4."? I did not try thinner stuff. ? I then kept messing around and cleaning as the no longer switching the main switch on/off was a change with the policing of dust around the unit.? ? Finally got it to rip 2 sticks of 8/4 maple which is how I had started the day but then ran out of time for the day as the family calls.? ? Fingers crossed next weekend I can actually meet my goals from this weekend. ? Who knows but the sawdust was likely causing an electronic gremlin somehow.??
Re: Aftermarket saw blade guard for Hammer Winner Mike Hopkins All Messages By This Member #140801 Thanks for the suggestion. ?Instead of a knob for the riving knife block, I purchased a 12mm clamping lever or Kip handle from Amazon and I am happy with that upgrade which I borrowed from a Ramon Valdez video. ?In terms of the block and the riving knife, I am not that pleased with that setup. ?The blade is not parallel to the riving knife which I improved with brass shims and transfer tape. ?It’s is better but still not nearly as good as it should be. ?Someone on this website posted a file that allows you to print a replacement block with the option to add set screws, ?I have not followed up with that (since I don’t have a 3D printer and not sure where to find one. ?In terms of the blade guard ( and I guess I would need a new riving knife). That will happen later if I pull the trigger. ? i never realized that when you purchase these “fancy and pricey”. Machines that you still need to fuss with them a bunch to fix shortcomings. ?When I had a Unisaw it was much more straightforward. ? best regards, ? Mike -- ?
Re: Need 12" digital caliper Steve Rowe All Messages By This Member #140800 This is the one I use: ? I also have the 4" and 6" versions and for the money, they are hard to beat. Steve
Re: Barth Multipress RP3001 with clamps and casework supports [Seattle area] joelgelman All Messages By This Member #140799 missed a picture. ? note how the magswitches are used. ?In my case, I make something that attached to the back of the perforated plate, but you can make something that attaches that way to the frame. ?I find that this is a great way to store things on machine sides in general. Barth back of rack.png
Re: Barth Multipress RP3001 with clamps and casework supports [Seattle area] joelgelman All Messages By This Member #140798 I saw the mention by my friend Dave. ?I would not say you will kick yourself later if you sell it ..... assuming you do not or will not use it and think you are better off using the space in a better way. ?I think if you really do not use something, you should sell it (ideal), donate, give away, or throw. away. ?Space has value! ?Even if you find a clever way to position the unit and store things behind it, that does not matter if you do not find value in keeping it. ? Now, as for use, it is mentioned that it was once used for large cabinet and case work, but not really being used that way at this time. ?It is certainly setup for gluing large boxes as pictured. ?The usefulness depends on how it is used. ?If I were to only use it for a rare large box, I would not want to have one either. ? However, I use mine often as my main use is for gluing boards together where I do not need depth. ?It could be for drawer parts when one board is not wide enough (often the case), or a panel door, or a face frame, or a table top. ?Super easy and fast! ?The attachments for large boxes are stored behind the multiples most of the time. ? I attached a couple of pictures of how I use the space in the back of the multipress, and along the back wall behind the muitipress. ?By not having it backed up against a wall or garage door, true, I lose some space in front of the press. ?However, I gain a LOT of storage both in the back of the unit and behind the unit while just allowing enough room to walk behind the multipress. ? My unit has the perforating plate. ?I do not use that with the clamps. ?If I had a much longer multipress, I would or if I had different applications I would. ? If anyone wants up to 4 of these unused clamps at a price way below new, please let me know (see attached). ?As an FYI, they can be adapted to use on the Barth vacuum table and I believe they can be used with the 20mm perforated Festool top with these ? ? I have these clamps for my Barth Bench. ?They are great. ?I just do not use more than a couple at a time on the bench and do not need the extras. ? ? Barth behind.jpeg Barth_201.jpeg Barth front.jpg Barth_201.jpeg
Re: Felder CF741 review Morgan Skinner All Messages By This Member #140797 开云体育 Bryce, Thanks so much for the video, it’s cleared up my understanding of the hood - I bought mine at auction recently and now realise I don’t have the ring fence part, just the hood itself. Given how often I’m likely to use this, I’ll order the ring fence part rather than get into rub collars, as whilst I can see they’re useful, I also see that I have more scope for adjusting the depth when using a ring fence. Anyway, thanks so much for taking the time to help, it’s very much appreciated! Cheers, Morgan. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 6 Apr 2025, at 17:35, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote: ? Hi Morgan, is a video that goes part way to explaining the hood for curved work. As i write this, i am thinking i should go into more depth on the hood itself, & so will try to incorporate more detail in the next video on doing curved work on the shaper involving the use of rub collars including jig design. Regards, Bryce -- https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
Re: KF 700 - shutting off as blade touches wood David P. Best All Messages By This Member #140796 开云体育 Yes - “most” but not “all”. ?Even though, as he says, "don't even have a head to toss on” the shaper, just turning on the shaper spindle and observe the yellow “reverse” light would tell a lot about the condition. ?I seriously doubt the outrigger position or contacting the blade would trigger the machine to shut down unless it’s triggering the stop circuit via vibration. ?The idea the outrigger position or blade contact would disrupt the 24V circuit is tin-foil-hat thinking IMO. ?Since his machine is single-phase, there could be an issue with he internal VFD, but his statement "Able to switch off and back on at machine so does not come back on without cycling power switch” suggests to me that it’s the stop-circuit as the culprit here. ?I would suggest the following. ?When the machine stops during a cut, cycle the reverse switch on the shaper and observe the yellow indicator light to see if it turns on. ?Report here. ?If that light does illuminate when the reverse switch is toggled, then it’s probably not the stop-circuit at fault here, and more likely a bad relay, or some other issue with the VFD. ? If that light does not illuminate, then it’s most likely the stop circuit, which could be one of the microswitches, bad connection to the “Stop” button switches, dirty slider bearing ways, or poor connection from the electronic panel to the stop switches. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Apr 6, 2025, at 4:25?PM, imran via groups.io <imranwoodshop@...> wrote: Hi David, Not sure if you got all msgs but Kyle responded to most if not all questions. I have heard of this happening when xcutting on the slider, not necessarily with material hitting the blade though. However, depending upon where the outrigger is positioned on the slider, it may seem like the material contacting the blade is causing the shutdown but in reality it is just that the slider has travelled a certain amount causing a break in signal as you mentioned. Besides cleaning the ways it may also be prudent to check the wiring related to the slider switches as well. Kyle mentioned he was ripping, so not sure if the slider was locked while he was doing the ripping. That would make a dirty micro switch a possible culprit. Another possibility is the overload relay that senses current. Brian also mentioned this. This is usually labeled as 2K1 in the electrical cabinet. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations On Apr 6, 2025, at 6:18?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ?There is not enough information here for us to really be helpful. ?Please reply with answers to Brian’s questions. ?Without hearing more, I’d be very suspicious that the issue is related to the stop circuit connected through the sliding table to the switches at “the end of the wagon.” ? That circuit runs through the bearings, and if that circuit is broken (for just a millisecond) because of poor contact induced by the vibration of the saw starting to cut, that would produce the behavior you observe. ?Try cleaning the bearing ways of the lower and upper sliding table extrusions. ?Douse it with a solvent like WD-40, run the slider back and forth several times, then clean the ways several times to remove the solvent. ?Of course there are a bunch of other possibilities, but I’d start with that. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best On Apr 6, 2025, at 1:50?PM, Kyle Stiefel via groups.io <kstiefel@...> wrote: Update: ? So went through everything getting dust out of all the nooks and crannies as the day went on.? ? Initially it let me then restart the saw from the wagon or frame without recycling the on/off but would still cut out when I tried to cut about 3/4."? I did not try thinner stuff. ? I then kept messing around and cleaning as the no longer switching the main switch on/off was a change with the policing of dust around the unit.? ? Finally got it to rip 2 sticks of 8/4 maple which is how I had started the day but then ran out of time for the day as the family calls.? ? Fingers crossed next weekend I can actually meet my goals from this weekend. ? Who knows but the sawdust was likely causing an electronic gremlin somehow.??
Re: Need 12" digital caliper splinterboy All Messages By This Member #140794 Aaron, ? You are going to love having a 12" caliper in the shop but don't think it stops there? ? One day you will be at an estate sale and say "Ooh, what's in that big box over there? ?Is that a 16" caliper? I probably need that!" ? Came in handy when I was measuring my J/P head the other day but I couldn't directly measure the entire shaft. ? Now I want a 24" one. ? It's a slippery slope my friend. ?you have been warned? ? ? ? ? -Rusty
Re: Aftermarket saw blade guard for Hammer Winner Steve Wurster All Messages By This Member #140793 I had that SawStop guard on my Ridgid Contractor's Saw back before I got the slider.? It worked pretty well; definitely better than the stock K3 guard and currently better than my Harvey Shark setup (which as I noted earlier is probably limited due to my DC setup).? You might not be getting much dust off the blade because it looks like you are running with the stock blade insert rather than a zero-clearance style.? There's little room for dust to go down into the cabinet with zero-clearance, but the overall benefits seem to outweigh that negative. ? At one point I mounted the SawStop guard to the stock K3 riving knife.? It was a hack, but it was possible.? One annoyance was how far it extends compared to the stock guard, although I guess the Harvey Shark unit is just as large (but a different style of course).? The other annoyance is that backing up the slider after making a cut would mean the piece on the slider would slam into the back of the guard's "wing" and either prevent / hinder the reverse movement of the slider or cause the entire guard to violently pop up.? Neither was acceptable for me, so I scrapped that plan fairly quickly. ?
Re: KF 700 - shutting off as blade touches wood imran All Messages By This Member #140792 开云体育 Hi David, Not sure if you got all msgs but Kyle responded to most if not all questions. I have heard of this happening when xcutting on the slider, not necessarily with material hitting the blade though. However, depending upon where the outrigger is positioned on the slider, it may seem like the material contacting the blade is causing the shutdown but in reality it is just that the slider has travelled a certain amount causing a break in signal as you mentioned. Besides cleaning the ways it may also be prudent to check the wiring related to the slider switches as well. Kyle mentioned he was ripping, so not sure if the slider was locked while he was doing the ripping. That would make a dirty micro switch a possible culprit. Another possibility is the overload relay that senses current. Brian also mentioned this. This is usually labeled as 2K1 in the electrical cabinet. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Apr 6, 2025, at 6:18?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ?There is not enough information here for us to really be helpful. ?Please reply with answers to Brian’s questions. ?Without hearing more, I’d be very suspicious that the issue is related to the stop circuit connected through the sliding table to the switches at “the end of the wagon.” ? That circuit runs through the bearings, and if that circuit is broken (for just a millisecond) because of poor contact induced by the vibration of the saw starting to cut, that would produce the behavior you observe. ?Try cleaning the bearing ways of the lower and upper sliding table extrusions. ?Douse it with a solvent like WD-40, run the slider back and forth several times, then clean the ways several times to remove the solvent. ?Of course there are a bunch of other possibilities, but I’d start with that. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best On Apr 6, 2025, at 1:50?PM, Kyle Stiefel via groups.io <kstiefel@...> wrote: Update: ? So went through everything getting dust out of all the nooks and crannies as the day went on.? ? Initially it let me then restart the saw from the wagon or frame without recycling the on/off but would still cut out when I tried to cut about 3/4."? I did not try thinner stuff. ? I then kept messing around and cleaning as the no longer switching the main switch on/off was a change with the policing of dust around the unit.? ? Finally got it to rip 2 sticks of 8/4 maple which is how I had started the day but then ran out of time for the day as the family calls.? ? Fingers crossed next weekend I can actually meet my goals from this weekend. ? Who knows but the sawdust was likely causing an electronic gremlin somehow.??
Re: Need 12" digital caliper David P. Best All Messages By This Member #140791 开云体育 I have the??unit which I love, but I wanted something less precious for everyday “burner” type use. ?So I just recently bought this one from Amazon, which is fine. ?One of the things I like about it is that the battery cover is held in place by a tiny screw, so it’s less likely to fly off into the bowls of the shop never to be found again. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Apr 6, 2025, at 2:47?PM, imran via groups.io <imranwoodshop@...> wrote: ?I am very happy with shars. I wanted one with 2032 battery and large digits. I know there is another Shars model and I was struggling between them but I like what I ended up getting. Smooth movement and reasonable price. Did not know they come with 4 decimal points.

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Imran Malik

IAM Wood Creations

On Apr 6, 2025, at 5:16?PM, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:

Hey guys.? I'm in need of a 12" digital caliper.?? I have a Mitutoyo 6" that is excellent, but their 12" calipers are upwards of $470 or so.?? There are many cheaper variants (Fowler, Inzise, Accusize, etc.).?? Can anyone recommend a decent one??? Some of these cheaper calipers have flimsier bodies and thinner calipers.? The flexible bodies can cause a variance in measurement.?? I would love a stainless steel variant, but let me know what you think.

-Aaron Inami