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I believe that Felder's resistance to use a lift-gate truck to deliver these kinds of things has more to do with the safety of the operation and not the actual weight capacity of the lift-gate

Rohit, To be clear, not all liftgates are created equal. The common variety is only half as deep (likely less) and the rating, IIRC is in 1500-2000# range. I off loaded 2200# Dual 51 from one of

Imran—totally with you. I got my Viking from Grizzly as well, and when I asked the driver about the liftgate rating during delivery, he said “around 4000 lbs.” Didn’t sound super precise, but

Hi Stan, Sorry for the delayed reply—and glad you got them to budge. Mine’s technically curbside as well, though the garage is only about 30 feet in with minimal incline, so I might be able to

If single phase then start/runs caps are also common. The affect of a bad start cap can show up on one function/motor before the others. Imran Malik IAM Wood

Paul, Not enough info to be able to provide a good response. There are couple of relays that are common to starting of all motors. So if they are replacing these then the issue could be common. Pretty

Planer wouldn't start. Technicians diagnosed an electronic problem. Fiddled around. Got it going and left saying they would order a replacement component. (Electronics is a black art to me) Still

I haven’t used paperback veneer since I last did commercial work a LONG time ago so can only comment on raw and shop sawn. Ideally you want a hard glue line to avoid creep, urea would be the best

Hi David, My experience FWIW. Substrate-MDF. You can thickness MDF on your Northstate widebelt for the dimension you need. Plywood has issues you don't need. You do not need or want to seal the

Hi David I do a lot of veneering, but always with regular veneer. So everything that follows may not apply to paper back The rule of thumb is to not have the face veneer grain direction parallel to

I did a job for an architect with Wenge veneered doors.? ?He had six sheets of MDF laid up and finished by a supplier he knew of and I went down and picked the sheets up when they were ready.? I

I like UF glue but I can't get it locally anymore last time I looked and the stuff I used only had about a year of shelf life.? ?Silas Kopf uses it, maybe not all the time but he likes it.

I've used Lacewood PSA veneer on an MDF substrate for a large coffee table - ?I used Shellac on the MDF and sanded it before applying the veneer. Also veneered the opposing side to ensure stability

Hi David, I don't have any experience with the PSA backed veneers, but you couldn't pay me to experiment on a customer's project with it. There's no way that glue line is going to be rigid enough to

Hi David, I do a fair amount of veneering flat panels, though I’m typically working with 1/16" thick veneer, which is a bit more forgiving than the thinner material you're using. I’ve had decent

PSA is for compromised application/installation environments, and can have issues with finish solvents and heat - even sunshine through a window - releasing over time. Also can have issues applying

Great information, thank you for sharing. -- Burak Gürer Türkiye (owner Ad 951-K740S-FB710) gurerwoodcraft/Instagram

Hi David - I’ve used Better Bond XPress (dark) for recent walnut projects. It was recommended by veneer supplies and I can attest that it is excellent for veneering wood and paper backed veneers.

David, I have been following a very talented Australian woodworker (Nick Pedula) and he has several YouTube videos dealing with various aspects related to veneering. Here’s a link to one of his

It’s been several years since I did any veneer work, and I’m looking for some advice. I’m about to start the doors and drawer front for a large cabinet project