Hi Doug,
I agree with others that you can have all machines hooked up to the PP. If you are overcautious, you can add a sub panel to protect the downstream circuits or like me add a simple distribution panel. Mine was made 25 yrs ago with salvage parts. Since then I
have added a 3rd?circuit. It is nothing more that 1 to many distribution blocks (3 silver items up top) and individual circuits protected by fuses.
It is not needed but if you absolutely would like a change over (one machine powered at one time) something like this could be used.
They are very common and do offer one benefit. They will remove power from downstream circuits. Remember that single phase voltage will be provided by the phase perfect to the downstream circuits even when it is not running. My unit is old but I believe new
ones work the same way.
Imran
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I've recently received my AD-741 and FB-710 for a new shop and am trying to nail down the electrical configuration. ?I've not dealt with 3-phase nor am I versed in such matters, but based on prior reading here I'm looking at a Phase Perfect converter.
?After a conversation with their tech support I'm looking at the PTE010, which I understand is plenty for either tool individually but not enough to run both simultaneously, which I have no need or intention of doing. ?My question is about how to configure
this. ?Ideally I'd like some way of switching the converter output to support one machine or the other and preclude the possibility of powering both simultaneously. ?I've seen some discussion here about supporting multiple tools from one converter, but nothing
addressing this switching question (not that my search has been exhaustive...). ?It would be acceptable to have a single 3-phase "highway" with plugs for both machines, relying on my own discipline to only power one at a time, but that would not be my preference.
?Am I making this more difficult than it needs to be?
?
Thank you,
Doug
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On Wed, Feb 5, 2025 at 08:27 AM, Karl wrote:
How I run my Phase Perfect,
Main Panel -> 100amp Sub Panel, on my sub panel I have a circuit that goes to the Phase Perfect
The output of the Phase Perfect goes to a Siemens ES Series 3 Phase Main Lug Only load center, then have dedicated Q3xx breakers for each tool. Wiring direct means your machine could draw more than its rated amperage, and all wire needs to be supportive of your full output amperage.
Its a bit more outlay, but I find it gives more expandability. Others do something simmilar with a DIN rail style breaker.
Hope this helps
-Karl
Great. ?I already have the "Main Panel -> 100amp Sub Panel" part...
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How I run my Phase Perfect,
Main Panel -> 100amp Sub Panel, on my sub panel I have a circuit that goes to the Phase Perfect
The output of the Phase Perfect goes to a Siemens ES Series 3 Phase Main Lug Only load center, then have dedicated Q3xx breakers for each tool. Wiring direct means your machine could draw more than its rated amperage, and all wire needs to be supportive of your full output amperage.
Its a bit more outlay, but I find it gives more expandability. Others do something simmilar with a DIN rail style breaker.
Hope this helps
-Karl
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The answer is the same. 11kW is still within the PP output.
i think David mention that he run his Dual 51 (13.5HP) with the shaper (10HP) and still had enough power to run the TS in the background on the PTE010
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It sounds like appropriate choices for breakers would preclude my having a problem even with a circuit layout that would permit both machines to be powered up at the same time.
?
I did see (and download) a diagram from David Best showing his power distribution approach.
?
Thank you,
Doug
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Doug,
?
I agree with the sentiments stated already.
?
There are many people that just hook all of the machines to the PP in a string like they wire a 240 volt circuit.? It works, if you are not overwhelming the PP.
?
The PTE010 can deliver 36 amps steady state (under-rated in everyone's opinion).? It also can deliver 150 amps for 2 seconds, 100 amps for 5 seconds, and 50 amps for 20 plus seconds.? FWIW, I ran my 15hp SCM L'invincible FS 7 off my PTE010 for over a year with zero issues.
?
I now have my 3 phase set up connected to a load center with circuit breakers for each machine, but that is because I started from scratch with an empty building.
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Don't over think it!
?
PK
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I have the 7.5HP (5.5kW) on both machines, if that matters.
?
Thank you,
Doug
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Doug,
?
Think of the phase converter output as any other circuit in your panel. You likely have circuits with multiple outlets on them that would trip the breaker if all outlets were used at the same time with a decent amount of load.
?
I believe that David Best has shared a diagram in several topics here showing his wiring layout where he uses power distribution blocks to split the 3phase circuit out to multiple tools. This would be your best bet IMO. You could go the route of a dedicated 3 phase sub panel fed by the phase converter, but that's not really necessary.
--
?
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
> Making youtube videos now!
??? -
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I think you are overcomplicating things, not sure what motor configurations did you take, but if you did the 5.5HP (4kW) for the bandsaw and 7.5HP (5.5kW) for the J/P, you are at 9.5kW range, so you¡¯ll be around 28A on 3PH, well within the PRE010 output (36A) (not to mention that it highly unlikely that you will get to the point of consuming the max peak of each machine)
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i ran a main feed line from the converter to a metal box near the machines. within the box are wabco motor starters on a DIN rail that feed individual circuits for each machine.?
I've recently received my AD-741 and FB-710 for a new shop and am trying to nail down the electrical configuration.? I've not dealt with 3-phase nor am I versed in such matters, but based on prior reading here I'm looking at a Phase Perfect converter.? After a conversation with their tech support I'm looking at the PTE010, which I understand is plenty for either tool individually but not enough to run both simultaneously, which I have no need or intention of doing.? My question is about how to configure this.? Ideally I'd like some way of switching the converter output to support one machine or the other and preclude the possibility of powering both simultaneously.? I've seen some discussion here about supporting multiple tools from one converter, but nothing addressing this switching question (not that my search has been exhaustive...).? It would be acceptable to have a single 3-phase "highway" with plugs for both machines, relying on my own discipline to only power one at a time, but that would not be my preference.? Am I making this more difficult than it needs to be?
?
Thank you,
Doug
|
I've recently received my AD-741 and FB-710 for a new shop and am trying to nail down the electrical configuration. ?I've not dealt with 3-phase nor am I versed in such matters, but based on prior reading here I'm looking at a Phase Perfect converter. ?After a conversation with their tech support I'm looking at the PTE010, which I understand is plenty for either tool individually but not enough to run both simultaneously, which I have no need or intention of doing. ?My question is about how to configure this. ?Ideally I'd like some way of switching the converter output to support one machine or the other and preclude the possibility of powering both simultaneously. ?I've seen some discussion here about supporting multiple tools from one converter, but nothing addressing this switching question (not that my search has been exhaustive...). ?It would be acceptable to have a single 3-phase "highway" with plugs for both machines, relying on my own discipline to only power one at a time, but that would not be my preference. ?Am I making this more difficult than it needs to be?
?
Thank you,
Doug
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Re: Drawer Sides Best Practices
Kamal,
I have both PantoRouter and Leigh D4R Pro. I bought Leigh D4R more than 10 years ago.
If you want to choose only one between PantoRouter and Leigh D4R Pro, yes, PantoRouter is the choice, cause it can do more than just through dovetail. IMO, I think every woodworker should have a horizontal router.
Leigh D4R Pro can do more than through dovetails, like half-blind dovetails, single pass half-blind dovetails, rabbeted dovetails...
James
James, was angling toward the Lee Valley jig for the dovetails on those drawer joints but maybe the Pantorouter is the "route" ;) to go.
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
I had some time yesterday and using the sketch provided by Jim, I redesignedd the duct adapter. I can provide the stl file if someone wants to try it themselves, I can print one, but have no machine to try it on. You will need to install two 5mm heatserts as I designed it so that no hose clamp around the rectangular portion will be necessary. It uses two 5mm x 45mm long bolts to pinch the adaper onto t he sheetmetal portion.
I'm attaching a 3D PDF file, you have to download it then open it and you should be able to view and rotate from any angle.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Monday, February 3, 2025 at 01:57:03 PM MST, ibsenafshar <brian@...> wrote:
1999 C3-31 uses 100mm hose. If an adapter as is being discussed became available I would buy one.?
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Re: Drawer Sides Best Practices
James, was angling toward the Lee Valley jig for the dovetails on those drawer joints but maybe the Pantorouter is the "route" ;) to go.
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Hi Morgan,
For clamping, I use DeWalt track clamps. You can tip them into the slot instead of always going to the end.?
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I also recommend a knurled nut on the handle on the slider. Makes it easier to move it to a more convenient position.
?
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-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
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Re: 160 mm dust collection ducting in the USA
Hey Karl...good to hear things went well with the order and installation.? I used a mixture of plywood type brackets and heavy duty zip ties for my wall brackets...will see how they hold up.
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Kamal Patel
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I hope so, Wade!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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John Hinman,
When you get Mac¡¯s Airtight clamps installed, those Kreg clamps will never be seen again! ????
Wade Milton, WA? K700S, AD941
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On Feb 4, 2025, at 8:36 AM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
? I have used the Kreg Automaxx clamps for three years. I tried a clamp by Milescraft or Anchor (I do not recall which), but it does not automatically adjust for thickness. The Kreg clamps are a little fussy to use, but get the job done.
?
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I had a friend make up some aluminum T-nuts to use with them. Before that I use a wooden T-nut with a threaded insert.
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I have Mac¡¯s clamps on order. They are not cheap, but have a loyal following. How much can you get for a kidney?
?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID USA
Kappa 450X and A941
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Re: 160 mm dust collection ducting in the USA
My Blastgate Co order arrived, and I got it put up over the weekend, being a spiral pipe order
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All in all, happy with the pipe and most of the fittings, I had some problems with the size of the Male-Male (Pipe-Pipe) connectors, about 50% of them were too large, Blastgate Co sent out replacements, and had about the same yield, was able to make it work, but a little frustrating.
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As for mounting, I opted for hard mounting of the ducting to the walls and ceiling using Unistrut and a collection of 4" and 6" clamps built for EMT (had to use some spacers to make it Gud-N-Tite, so maybe order 3.5"/5.5" if you were going this route. Its much better than the PVC mix I've been using and very happy with the purchase.?
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On Tue, Feb 4, 2025 at 08:36 AM, Bram Baert wrote:
Hi,
?
For the zero clearance insert I can recommend my 3d printable model?
?
Regards Bram
?
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Hi Bram,
Maybe the C-3 has been modified from 1999, my plate is shorter and with 3 screws holding it down.
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imran
PK
Larry Long Neck
Bill Hope