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Re: Drawer Sides Best Practices

 

Bryce, no worries and thank you for the sketch and narrative.? I think I have it figured out as ultimately I was struggling with the toe-out and its effect on the dado...your comments along with those received from Best offline were incredibly helpful!??
Kamal Patel


Re: Drawer Sides Best Practices

 

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Thanks Wade. I have not used undemount but now that you mention it, recall a video that talked about those notches.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Feb 5, 2025, at 8:22?PM, Wade Dees via groups.io <wjdsignature@...> wrote:

?
Imran,

If your using under-mount hardware, you need the front part of the drawer box to remain longer so that you have material on the underside to attache the drawer hardware portion that receives the slide portions of the hardware. ?

I also build my drawer boxes this way so that I don’t have to cut in those notches in the back. ?

Thx,

Wade



On Feb 5, 2025, at 5:04 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Hi Bryce,

What is the advantage of adding the drawer after the drawer glue up? Obviously, it is one less thing to worry about but is it more than that? Does it help with the way you clamp, or something else?

If your method is followed, would there be any drawback if the back and front are reversed? In which case, the bottom can be made a bit longer and it will be self contained by the decorative applied drawer front.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Feb 5, 2025, at 7:26?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote:

?
Hi Kamal,
I'm sorry i'm so late to reply to your question. You may have already figured it out, but in case you haven't, or simply want to give this way a go in the future, i have attached a photo of a quick sketch i did to help explain what i was eluding to.
In the drawing, i have the sides, back and front of the drawer box laid out so you see the grooves in all parts except for the back. That is cut to the width of the sides from the top edge to the top of the groove. When making the groove in the sides back and front, you will need to allow for the thickness of the material being used for the drawer bottom, and i think it's =/- 13mm for Blum undermount slides. (Just check, as i mostly use Salice these days)
When running the grooves with a dado stack, there shouldn't be any issue with the toe out of the fence. If there is, then you definitely need to fix your fence as there shouldn't be that much run out.?
Hope this helps,
Regards,
?
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
<20250205_161552.jpg>


Re: Drawer Sides Best Practices

 

开云体育

Imran,

If your using under-mount hardware, you need the front part of the drawer box to remain longer so that you have material on the underside to attache the drawer hardware portion that receives the slide portions of the hardware. ?

I also build my drawer boxes this way so that I don’t have to cut in those notches in the back. ?

Thx,

Wade



On Feb 5, 2025, at 5:04 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Hi Bryce,

What is the advantage of adding the drawer after the drawer glue up? Obviously, it is one less thing to worry about but is it more than that? Does it help with the way you clamp, or something else?

If your method is followed, would there be any drawback if the back and front are reversed? In which case, the bottom can be made a bit longer and it will be self contained by the decorative applied drawer front.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Feb 5, 2025, at 7:26?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote:

?
Hi Kamal,
I'm sorry i'm so late to reply to your question. You may have already figured it out, but in case you haven't, or simply want to give this way a go in the future, i have attached a photo of a quick sketch i did to help explain what i was eluding to.
In the drawing, i have the sides, back and front of the drawer box laid out so you see the grooves in all parts except for the back. That is cut to the width of the sides from the top edge to the top of the groove. When making the groove in the sides back and front, you will need to allow for the thickness of the material being used for the drawer bottom, and i think it's =/- 13mm for Blum undermount slides. (Just check, as i mostly use Salice these days)
When running the grooves with a dado stack, there shouldn't be any issue with the toe out of the fence. If there is, then you definitely need to fix your fence as there shouldn't be that much run out.?
Hope this helps,
Regards,
?
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
<20250205_161552.jpg>


Re: Drawer Sides Best Practices

 

开云体育

Hi Bryce,

What is the advantage of adding the drawer after the drawer glue up? Obviously, it is one less thing to worry about but is it more than that? Does it help with the way you clamp, or something else?

If your method is followed, would there be any drawback if the back and front are reversed? In which case, the bottom can be made a bit longer and it will be self contained by the decorative applied drawer front.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Feb 5, 2025, at 7:26?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote:

?
Hi Kamal,
I'm sorry i'm so late to reply to your question. You may have already figured it out, but in case you haven't, or simply want to give this way a go in the future, i have attached a photo of a quick sketch i did to help explain what i was eluding to.
In the drawing, i have the sides, back and front of the drawer box laid out so you see the grooves in all parts except for the back. That is cut to the width of the sides from the top edge to the top of the groove. When making the groove in the sides back and front, you will need to allow for the thickness of the material being used for the drawer bottom, and i think it's =/- 13mm for Blum undermount slides. (Just check, as i mostly use Salice these days)
When running the grooves with a dado stack, there shouldn't be any issue with the toe out of the fence. If there is, then you definitely need to fix your fence as there shouldn't be that much run out.?
Hope this helps,
Regards,
?
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
<20250205_161552.jpg>


Re: Fw: Private: Re: [FOG] Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider

 

Thanks!

Sent from joe's iPhone


On Wed, Feb 5, 2025 at 3:24?PM Brian Lamb via <blamb11=[email protected]> wrote:



This is the orientation I'm using, should be best for strength. The File can be found here, it's 61mb, so too large to email:





Inline image


Brian Lamb




--
Joe Slater
michigan


Re: Drawer Sides Best Practices

 

Hi Kamal,
I'm sorry i'm so late to reply to your question. You may have already figured it out, but in case you haven't, or simply want to give this way a go in the future, i have attached a photo of a quick sketch i did to help explain what i was eluding to.
In the drawing, i have the sides, back and front of the drawer box laid out so you see the grooves in all parts except for the back. That is cut to the width of the sides from the top edge to the top of the groove. When making the groove in the sides back and front, you will need to allow for the thickness of the material being used for the drawer bottom, and i think it's =/- 13mm for Blum undermount slides. (Just check, as i mostly use Salice these days)
When running the grooves with a dado stack, there shouldn't be any issue with the toe out of the fence. If there is, then you definitely need to fix your fence as there shouldn't be that much run out.?
Hope this helps,
Regards,
?
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw


Fw: Private: Re: [FOG] Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider

 




This is the orientation I'm using, should be best for strength. The File can be found here, it's 61mb, so too large to email:





Inline image


Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com




Re: Hammer B3 questions

 

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Sadly those T-Nuts appear to be US only. However, I could make some fairly easily.

Cheers,

Morgan

On 4 Feb 2025, at 18:39, ibsenafshar via groups.io <brian@...> wrote:

?
I have the big Hammer cam clamp and don't like it at all, another big fan of the Automax, and the t-nuts you can buy:
?
https://taytools.com/products/taytools-2-piece-slot-fixture-hold-down-kit?_pos=1&_sid=a1dae810e&_ss=r


Re: Hammer B3 questions

 

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Bram,

Many thanks,

Morgan

On 4 Feb 2025, at 16:36, Bram Baert via groups.io <bram.baert@...> wrote:

?
Hi,

For the zero clearance insert I can recommend my 3d printable model?

Regards Bram


Op di 4 feb 2025, 17:30 schreef Karl via <bombamanwa=[email protected]>:
Sorry it's early, John is correct method uses a square not a straight edge.
?
-Karl


Re: Hammer B3 questions

 

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John,

Thanks - I hadn’t seen these clamps but they look like a good solution.

Thankyou,

Morgan

On 4 Feb 2025, at 16:36, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?
I have used the Kreg Automaxx clamps for three years. I tried a clamp by Milescraft or Anchor (I do not recall which), but it does not automatically adjust for thickness. The Kreg clamps are a little fussy to use, but get the job done.
?
<image.jpg>
?
I had a friend make up some aluminum T-nuts to use with them. Before that I use a wooden T-nut with a threaded insert.
?
I have Mac’s clamps on order. They are not cheap, but have a loyal following. How much can you get for a kidney?
?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID USA
Kappa 450X and A941


Re: Hammer B3 questions

 

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Wade,

Thanks!

On 4 Feb 2025, at 16:30, Wade Dees via groups.io <wjdsignature@...> wrote:

?
Hi Morgan,?

There is also a wonderful 3 cut method that works great too. ?And you can even employ a dial indicator if you wish to really get it dialed in.

Thx,

Wade




On Feb 4, 2025, at 7:25?AM, Karl via groups.io <bombamanwa@...> wrote:

?
Hi Morgan,
?
1- Lots of methods available, if your familiar with 5 cut, do that. There is also an option to attach a straight edge to the blade and use a dial indicator along it's travel.
?
2-Felder do sell them, but you can also print them, make them, or people like Ramon Valdez do make some for certain models, but likely expensive for shipping?
?
3- Check the parts diagram to confirm, but if you need an adapter, automotive adapters, dust collection adapters or 3D printed ones are all options
?
4- Milescraft T-Track hold down, modifying a Kreg Automaxx or using a track clamp with an adapter are all cheaper options. Quick search here should show some examples.
?
-Karl
?
?


Re: Hammer B3 questions

 

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Thanks John, I’ve now watched his video and like his method of checking for run out - I have an excellent (very flat) level so can use my dial indicator and the level to check the slider.

Cheers,

Morgan

On 4 Feb 2025, at 16:23, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?
David Best demonstrates a method of using a large and accurate square with a dial indicator. I use this method, and find it to be quick, easy, and accurate.
?
You can find this demonstration at the end of Mr. Best’s YouTube video “Sliding Table Alignment for Felder Equipment”. It is about 37 minutes into the video.
?
It does require a substantial and accurate square, which is not easy to get. I use one made by Lamb Tool Works.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941


Re: Hammer B3 questions

 

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Karl,

Thanks for your comprehensive answers. I’ll have a look based on your suggestions.

Cheers,

Morgan

On 4 Feb 2025, at 15:25, Karl via groups.io <bombamanwa@...> wrote:

?
Hi Morgan,
?
1- Lots of methods available, if your familiar with 5 cut, do that. There is also an option to attach a straight edge to the blade and use a dial indicator along it's travel.
?
2-Felder do sell them, but you can also print them, make them, or people like Ramon Valdez do make some for certain models, but likely expensive for shipping?
?
3- Check the parts diagram to confirm, but if you need an adapter, automotive adapters, dust collection adapters or 3D printed ones are all options
?
4- Milescraft T-Track hold down, modifying a Kreg Automaxx or using a track clamp with an adapter are all cheaper options. Quick search here should show some examples.
?
-Karl
?
?


Re: Hammer B3 questions

 

开云体育

Thanks Bill, that’s a good idea using a track clamp. I have a couple (non-Dewalt) that I will try out.

Cheers,

Morgan

On 5 Feb 2025, at 14:50, Bill Hope via groups.io <hope.we@...> wrote:

?
Hi Morgan,
For clamping, I use DeWalt track clamps. You can tip them into the slot instead of always going to the end.?
?
I also recommend a knurled nut on the handle on the slider. Makes it easier to move it to a more convenient position.
?
--

-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer


Re: Hammer B3 questions

 

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Jaques,

Thanks - I like the look of the Harvey Compass, ?unfortunately it doesn’t look like it is particularly easy to get hold of in the UK. I’ve seen a similar home made version of this too, I may have a go at making my own.

Cheers,

Morgan

On 5 Feb 2025, at 21:16, Jacques Gagnon via groups.io <jacques.gagnon309@...> wrote:

?
Morgan,
?
Here are a couple of other options:
?
- Compass sold by Harvey
- home-made (plywood; hardwood runner; lever-style clamps
?
I also use the heavy Felder unit (there are ways to avoid the slippage when applying pressure)
?
Regards,
?
Jacques
?
<IMG_9084.jpeg>
<IMG_9083.jpeg>


Re: Configuring a single 3-phase converter to support two tools #phaseconverterquestions

 

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Larry,

That is a very interesting question to me. I looked up the disconnect switch on my K975 and it is rated for load breaking. So I would think that load breaking choice would be safer, however this type of switch is for change over and not for Emergency stop so may not be available with load switching. One would need to research.

Your question made me wonder how many cycles these are actually rated for. Many manufacturers did not even list cycles but I found an equivalent Schneider 32A switch for $287 that is rated for 100000 mechanical/electrical cycles but only for resistive loads. I imagine the $40 replacement switch for K975 is likely not as good.

I was told to not use Emergency stop switch on the machine to routinely switch off the machine as it will wear off. This EStop switch is only switching a 24VAC relay coil, which is nothing compared to switching a 5.5KW motor.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Feb 5, 2025, at 2:47?PM, Larry Long Neck via groups.io <longneckwood@...> wrote:

?
I'm actually curious what would happen if say the main motor was off but the machine itself was still powered on (LCD screens, lights, etc) and you turned that switch. I would imagine it would arc?
--
?
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood

> Making youtube videos now!
??? -


Re: Configuring a single 3-phase converter to support two tools #phaseconverterquestions

 

Imran and Karl, thanks for the details.
--
?
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood

> Making youtube videos now!
??? -


Re: Hammer B3 questions

 

Morgan,
?
Here are a couple of other options:
?
- Compass sold by Harvey
- home-made (plywood; hardwood runner; lever-style clamps
?
I also use the heavy Felder unit (there are ways to avoid the slippage when applying pressure)
?
Regards,
?
Jacques
?


Re: Configuring a single 3-phase converter to support two tools #phaseconverterquestions

 

Also confirming what Imran has said, the machines have thermal overload protection internally. As its required by the EU, its safe to assume all machines will have some level of protection. From what I've seen most seem to have Schneider TeSys IEC Overload Relays. Unfortunatley its usually kept under the "Warranty Void if Removed" panel (Illegal in the US under Magnuson-Moss) so not check-able without opening that can of worms if your machines under warranty still.
?
-Karl


Re: Configuring a single 3-phase converter to support two tools #phaseconverterquestions

 

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Hi Larry,

I cannot say if this is 100% true but Felder machines I have helped with have overload protection. My KF700, Dual51 and K975 do have this protection. I am also not sure if my RL125 or FD250 have any such protection, will need to investigate.

I wired my shop myself and had it inspected. I went towards the safe side if I was not sure to avoid any issues during inspection. The CB is to protect the wire as a short could occur between the CB and the machine which would not be protected by the machine overload protection.

If your work is done by a licensed electrician then they should know best.

I recently helped someone with Hammer. If you open the switch box, you will see a 10-16A slide switch (or something similar depending upon motor size). Check label of your motor to determine FLA. Measure machine current during idle and then switch meter to max setting. Make a heavy cut to stall the motor. Check current on the meter. If it is under FLA+ 2A and total is under 16A then may adjust the slide switch to match the current. May help you avoid nuisance trips.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Feb 5, 2025, at 3:07?PM, Larry Long Neck via groups.io <longneckwood@...> wrote:

?
Imran,
?
Do you know what kind of/if any overload protection these machines have? I'm curious about the mention of fuses in the distribution box. If you were to just use a distribution block and go from say 8awg 3phase input (coming out of PTE010) to 10awg 3phase output to a 10hp machine without any fuses in the mix, are you aware of any issues with that set up?
?
I can only think of the machine being overloaded and drawing too much current over the 10awg but not enough to trip the breaker on the other side of the 8awg.
?
Do these machines have overload protection built in to prevent this from happening? I have had my hammer a3-31 turn itself off plenty of times when taking too big of a bite on a wide board, so I would imagine they have something.
--
?
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood

> Making youtube videos now!
??? -