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I'd just google the equivalent that is available locally.? There are 5 gal alternatives in the $100 range.? I've found that I can often buy 5 gal from industrial distributers for not much more than shipping and buying 1 gallon containers.? Dave
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I had a hard time finding small quantities of mobil xp. Typically 5 gallon drums.?
|
Re: Air lines distribution
I bought California Air model below to run clamps. It worked fine.
|
Then I got mini WBS and K975 so I needed a distribution system. If you want to break all the rules, this was done in few hrs and has been in service for 4 yrs hobby use. It supports 2 machines with clamps, ceiling hung hose reel and WBS.
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On Jul 16, 2024, at 1:12?PM, Andy via groups.io <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
?
I use rapidaire maxline 3/4 with their fittings to run lines from a 5hp vertical compressor.? I use this system to distribute to my cnc which has an auto tool changer, and to various drops. The system has a neat drop feature that allows you to put drop stations wherever you need.?
The tubing is Pex-AL which is rated for pressure and so far it¡¯s worked flawlessly. The drop stations are great for quickly hooking up tools and for draining condensation.?
I think however a system of this size might be a bit of overkill for Macs clamps and some dust blowing but once you have it in place you might find more utility for it.?
The one gripe I have is that the tubing is semi flexible and getting the pipe straight takes a lot of time and still looks a little less than straight in some areas - the upside is that you can just bend it to make angles and corners.?
Andy?
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 12:52?PM netanel.belgazal via <netanel.belgazal=
[email protected]> wrote:
So far I only use my air compressor for small things like pin nailer and blowing dust.
I ordered mac clamps and I need to distribute air across my shop.
I wonder if you have any recommendations on air hoses/manifolds/fittings?
Re: Air lines distribution
If you are just extending to the saw, I'd suggest staying cheap and flexible with a 50 or 100 hose extension off your current compressor. The saw/clamp needs very little air. However do yourself a favor and add another splitter at the saw that makes it easy to plug anything else (or a retractrable?spool).
After that you might consider spending big money on a more substantial install. We ran for years on flexible 1/2" and 3/8" hoses to tools and it was fine mostly. It's better now that we have a fully redundant 3/4" Pex loop system and extra receiver tanks, but the widebelt is an air hog when all the blowoffs are activated and still outruns the supply after a while. If you aren't running air sanders or pneumatic hose spray guns, you don't need much air movement. Even one of our CNCs is just a push-lok 6mm or 8mm tubing supply and it is constant bleed air at the spindle.?
I use rapidaire maxline 3/4 with their fittings to run lines from a 5hp vertical compressor.? I use this system to distribute to my cnc which has an auto tool changer, and to various drops. The system has a neat drop feature that allows you to put drop stations wherever you need.?
The tubing is Pex-AL which is rated for pressure and so far it¡¯s worked flawlessly. The drop stations are great for quickly hooking up tools and for draining condensation.?
I think however a system of this size might be a bit of overkill for Macs clamps and some dust blowing but once you have it in place you might find more utility for it.?
The one gripe I have is that the tubing is semi flexible and getting the pipe straight takes a lot of time and still looks a little less than straight in some areas - the upside is that you can just bend it to make angles and corners.?
Andy?
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 12:52?PM netanel.belgazal via <netanel.belgazal= [email protected]> wrote: So far I only use my air compressor for small things like pin nailer and blowing dust.
I ordered mac clamps and I need to distribute air across my shop.
I wonder if you have any recommendations on air hoses/manifolds/fittings?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Air lines distribution
I use rapidaire maxline 3/4 with their fittings to run lines from a 5hp vertical compressor.? I use this system to distribute to my cnc which has an auto tool changer, and to various drops. The system has a neat drop feature that allows you to put drop stations wherever you need.?
The tubing is Pex-AL which is rated for pressure and so far it¡¯s worked flawlessly. The drop stations are great for quickly hooking up tools and for draining condensation.?
I think however a system of this size might be a bit of overkill for Macs clamps and some dust blowing but once you have it in place you might find more utility for it.?
The one gripe I have is that the tubing is semi flexible and getting the pipe straight takes a lot of time and still looks a little less than straight in some areas - the upside is that you can just bend it to make angles and corners.?
Andy?
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 12:52?PM netanel.belgazal via <netanel.belgazal= [email protected]> wrote:
So far I only use my air compressor for small things like pin nailer and blowing dust.
I ordered mac clamps and I need to distribute air across my shop.
I wonder if you have any recommendations on air hoses/manifolds/fittings?
|
Re: Air lines distribution
I put black pipe up in my shop for my airlines. I have runs with drops to eliminate condensation and it works now but holey smokes it was a pain in the ass to install and get everything air tight and not leaking at the joints.? That and the maneuvering needed with fittings to go up and over and around things.? I swore never again and am hoping the person that buys our house when we moves wants me to leave it installed.? I'm leaning towards a Rapid Air installation in my retirement shop. Dave Davies
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 12:06?PM Michael Branning via <mtbranning= [email protected]> wrote:
Dave, why not?
?
Or just get another small compressor and put it right by the slider.
?
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 11:52?AM netanel.belgazal via
<netanel.belgazal=[email protected]> wrote:
So far I only use my air compressor for small things like pin nailer and blowing dust.
I ordered mac clamps and I need to distribute air across my shop.
I wonder if you have any recommendations on air hoses/manifolds/fittings?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Air lines distribution
Dave, why not?
?
Or just get another small compressor and put it right by the slider.
?
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 11:52?AM netanel.belgazal via
<netanel.belgazal=[email protected]> wrote:
So far I only use my air compressor for small things like pin nailer and blowing dust.
I ordered mac clamps and I need to distribute air across my shop.
I wonder if you have any recommendations on air hoses/manifolds/fittings?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Air lines distribution
Or just get another small compressor and put it right by the slider.
Do not use black pipe ! Dave Davies On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 11:52?AM netanel.belgazal via <netanel.belgazal= [email protected]> wrote:
So far I only use my air compressor for small things like pin nailer and blowing dust.
I ordered mac clamps and I need to distribute air across my shop.
I wonder if you have any recommendations on air hoses/manifolds/fittings?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
So far I only use my air compressor for small things like pin nailer and blowing dust.
I ordered mac clamps and I need to distribute air across my shop.
I wonder if you have any recommendations on air hoses/manifolds/fittings?
|
I had a hard time finding small quantities of mobil xp. Typically 5 gallon drums.?
|
Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
Hi PK
?
I am planning for the same requirement and considering laminating 2X10's into approx 4.5 X 4.5" columns and arms. Arms would be tenoned into the columns and reinforced with through bolts. Columns secured to ceiling joists and to the floor into 'feet'.
?
perhaps someone can comment on the loads such a design can handle
?
Sal
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Imran,
I am not going to use System 3 as the crack filler, totalBoat epoxy is perfectly fine as filler.?
James
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 9:24?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Hi James,
Not an expert on the topic but I did not think west system 3 is designed as a crack filler. I have used it extensively as a general purpose adhesive in lieu of yellow glue like titebond.
I have used MAS penetrating epoxy and boy does it flow. Its best feature is also it¡¯s worse. Sealing the potential escape routes, in some cases, can be challenging. I am sure there are others out there but for filling the narrowest of checks this stuff works.
|
?
Lucky,
I used West Systems before, mainly as the crack and hole filler. What I found is West Systems' viscosity is higher, so it tends to leave air bubbles when filling the deep crack and hole. That is why I bought the TotalBoat epoxy with low viscosity. I will probably try System Three G-2 epoxy in my next rocking chair build.
Polyurethan glue should be fine as the wood glue. The UK woodworker from Bradshaw Joinery uses Polyurethane exclusively.?
James
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 2:12?AM David Luckensmeyer via <dhluckens=
[email protected]> wrote:
Hi James:
?
Your chair joints look awesome, notwithstanding your displeasure on the dark joint line. I¡¯ve also had trouble with the dark lines from epoxy. West Systems has a genuinely clear version which is dries very
light in colour that might help?
?
I¡¯ve used urethane glues quite a bit and I¡¯m inclined to go that route. I like them except for the mess if I use too much.
?
Lucky
?
I would not use epoxy for edge banding.
I used TotalBoat clear high performance epoxy?to glue the arm to the rear leg for the rocking chair. I thought the epoxy?bond was stronger than Titebond III. This is the first time I used epoxy in the chair
build.?
But the result is not what I expected. The glue line of the front leg to seat using Titebond III is so much better (perfect) than the arm to rear leg joint using epoxy. It seems like epoxy had the chemical reaction with the walnut, no matter how much sanding
I did, I cannot get rid of the dark color on the glue line.
From now on, I will only use Titebond III.
<IMG_4867.JPEG>
<IMG_4868.JPEG>
?
On Mon, Jul 15, 2024 at 8:04?PM David Luckensmeyer via
<dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:
Brian:
No worries. I had assumed that making a support to hold the curved edge parallel (i.e. the same orientation as I cut the half laps and dados in the
first place) would be ¡°too much trouble¡±. But now I see that all my alternatives are a fair bit of ¡°trouble¡± too, making this idea very relevant. The power of brainstorming!
?
David P:
Alas, a small CNC bed would be ever so useful! I have not seriously considered a small CNC like the Hammer, but despite my kicking and screaming and
protests to date, I think I would love having one in my shop. Ah yes, Fusion 360. One day ¡?
?
And Brett:
Thank you very much for sharing your experiences and what works for you. Your details are very helpful. I think I will have to experiment. If the
2mm is too thin, I can use it elsewhere and make new material at 3mm (as I have enough Zebrano)¡ And while we are at it, I was thinking of using Titebond III. I could use polyurethane, or epoxy, or TBII or ¡ but I thought TBIII would be fine?
?
Thanks so much everyone for your input. I sometimes think we should share more of what we are making. This group is more valuable (to me) than even
the biggest and best known of the online woodworking forums. Thanks heaps.
?
?
I missed that the uprights were veneered, I thought they were solid. If you use a pattern to cut the odd shape, could
you not use that same pattern to create a support that would hold the uprights in the same orientation that you did the half lap/dado's? Essentially a jack that would hold the piece so that the top was parallel to the table surface. Then you could just use
the same program style with two cuts per opening to trim the edge banding flush with the existing slots.
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 03:49:43 PM MST, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...>
wrote:
?
David B. I think you suggested a flatbed CNC router setup?!!
?
?
Have you considered something like this?
|
<XX-cnc-hnc3-hammer-feldergroup.png>
|
|
|
?
I would think twice before I ran quickly away from a Felder CNC router, but there are a number of respected
brands who make smaller flatbed CNC routers that can be used to make 50 perfectly shaped cauls in a couple hours.? And many of them are light enough that you could host them up to your tall ceiling for storage when not in use.? Just think, having a small CNC
router would motivate you to finish mastering Fusion 360. ?
?
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Hi James,
Not an expert on the topic but I did not think west system 3 is designed as a crack filler. I have used it extensively as a general purpose adhesive in lieu of yellow glue like titebond.
I have used MAS penetrating epoxy and boy does it flow. Its best feature is also it¡¯s worse. Sealing the potential escape routes, in some cases, can be challenging. I am sure there are others out there but for filling the narrowest of checks this stuff works.
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 16, 2024, at 9:10?AM, James Zhu via groups.io <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
?
Lucky,
I used West Systems before, mainly as the crack and hole filler. What I found is West Systems' viscosity is higher, so it tends to leave air bubbles when filling the deep crack and hole. That is why I bought the TotalBoat epoxy with low viscosity. I will probably try System Three G-2 epoxy in my next rocking chair build.
Polyurethan glue should be fine as the wood glue. The UK woodworker from Bradshaw Joinery uses Polyurethane exclusively.?
James
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 2:12?AM David Luckensmeyer via <dhluckens=
[email protected]> wrote:
Hi James:
?
Your chair joints look awesome, notwithstanding your displeasure on the dark joint line. I¡¯ve also had trouble with the dark lines from epoxy. West Systems has a genuinely clear version which is dries very
light in colour that might help?
?
I¡¯ve used urethane glues quite a bit and I¡¯m inclined to go that route. I like them except for the mess if I use too much.
?
Lucky
?
I would not use epoxy for edge banding.
I used TotalBoat clear high performance epoxy?to glue the arm to the rear leg for the rocking chair. I thought the epoxy?bond was stronger than Titebond III. This is the first time I used epoxy in the chair
build.?
But the result is not what I expected. The glue line of the front leg to seat using Titebond III is so much better (perfect) than the arm to rear leg joint using epoxy. It seems like epoxy had the chemical reaction with the walnut, no matter how much sanding
I did, I cannot get rid of the dark color on the glue line.
From now on, I will only use Titebond III.
<IMG_4867.JPEG>
<IMG_4868.JPEG>
?
On Mon, Jul 15, 2024 at 8:04?PM David Luckensmeyer via
<dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:
Brian:
No worries. I had assumed that making a support to hold the curved edge parallel (i.e. the same orientation as I cut the half laps and dados in the
first place) would be ¡°too much trouble¡±. But now I see that all my alternatives are a fair bit of ¡°trouble¡± too, making this idea very relevant. The power of brainstorming!
?
David P:
Alas, a small CNC bed would be ever so useful! I have not seriously considered a small CNC like the Hammer, but despite my kicking and screaming and
protests to date, I think I would love having one in my shop. Ah yes, Fusion 360. One day ¡?
?
And Brett:
Thank you very much for sharing your experiences and what works for you. Your details are very helpful. I think I will have to experiment. If the
2mm is too thin, I can use it elsewhere and make new material at 3mm (as I have enough Zebrano)¡ And while we are at it, I was thinking of using Titebond III. I could use polyurethane, or epoxy, or TBII or ¡ but I thought TBIII would be fine?
?
Thanks so much everyone for your input. I sometimes think we should share more of what we are making. This group is more valuable (to me) than even
the biggest and best known of the online woodworking forums. Thanks heaps.
?
?
I missed that the uprights were veneered, I thought they were solid. If you use a pattern to cut the odd shape, could
you not use that same pattern to create a support that would hold the uprights in the same orientation that you did the half lap/dado's? Essentially a jack that would hold the piece so that the top was parallel to the table surface. Then you could just use
the same program style with two cuts per opening to trim the edge banding flush with the existing slots.
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 03:49:43 PM MST, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...>
wrote:
?
David B. I think you suggested a flatbed CNC router setup?!!
?
?
Have you considered something like this?
|
<XX-cnc-hnc3-hammer-feldergroup.png>
|
|
|
?
I would think twice before I ran quickly away from a Felder CNC router, but there are a number of respected
brands who make smaller flatbed CNC routers that can be used to make 50 perfectly shaped cauls in a couple hours.? And many of them are light enough that you could host them up to your tall ceiling for storage when not in use.? Just think, having a small CNC
router would motivate you to finish mastering Fusion 360. ?
?
Taylor, Chuck runs Mobilgear 600 xp 460 in his 299.? He has a small commercial shop so the machine gets more than hobby use but not production 24-7.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
After hours of research, I landed on this:
?
https://factorysupplyoutlet.com/lubriplate-syn-worm-gear-lubricant-1-plastic-qt/?cmp_id=19259613738&adg_id=&kwd=&device=m&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAC4SZ_8CmUEimV2GGl0_w8Vjqai6Z
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Lucky,
I used West Systems before, mainly as the crack and hole filler. What I found is West Systems' viscosity is higher, so it tends to leave air bubbles when filling the deep crack and hole. That is why I bought the TotalBoat epoxy with low viscosity. I will probably try System Three G-2 epoxy in my next rocking chair build.
Polyurethan glue should be fine as the wood glue. The UK woodworker from Bradshaw Joinery uses Polyurethane exclusively.?
James
On Tue, Jul 16, 2024 at 2:12?AM David Luckensmeyer via <dhluckens= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi James:
?
Your chair joints look awesome, notwithstanding your displeasure on the dark joint line. I¡¯ve also had trouble with the dark lines from epoxy. West Systems has a genuinely clear version which is dries very
light in colour that might help?
?
I¡¯ve used urethane glues quite a bit and I¡¯m inclined to go that route. I like them except for the mess if I use too much.
?
Lucky
?
I would not use epoxy for edge banding.
I used TotalBoat clear high performance epoxy?to glue the arm to the rear leg for the rocking chair. I thought the epoxy?bond was stronger than Titebond III. This is the first time I used epoxy in the chair
build.?
But the result is not what I expected. The glue line of the front leg to seat using Titebond III is so much better (perfect) than the arm to rear leg joint using epoxy. It seems like epoxy had the chemical reaction with the walnut, no matter how much sanding
I did, I cannot get rid of the dark color on the glue line.
From now on, I will only use Titebond III.
?
On Mon, Jul 15, 2024 at 8:04?PM David Luckensmeyer via
<dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:
Brian:
No worries. I had assumed that making a support to hold the curved edge parallel (i.e. the same orientation as I cut the half laps and dados in the
first place) would be ¡°too much trouble¡±. But now I see that all my alternatives are a fair bit of ¡°trouble¡± too, making this idea very relevant. The power of brainstorming!
?
David P:
Alas, a small CNC bed would be ever so useful! I have not seriously considered a small CNC like the Hammer, but despite my kicking and screaming and
protests to date, I think I would love having one in my shop. Ah yes, Fusion 360. One day ¡?
?
And Brett:
Thank you very much for sharing your experiences and what works for you. Your details are very helpful. I think I will have to experiment. If the
2mm is too thin, I can use it elsewhere and make new material at 3mm (as I have enough Zebrano)¡ And while we are at it, I was thinking of using Titebond III. I could use polyurethane, or epoxy, or TBII or ¡ but I thought TBIII would be fine?
?
Thanks so much everyone for your input. I sometimes think we should share more of what we are making. This group is more valuable (to me) than even
the biggest and best known of the online woodworking forums. Thanks heaps.
?
?
I missed that the uprights were veneered, I thought they were solid. If you use a pattern to cut the odd shape, could
you not use that same pattern to create a support that would hold the uprights in the same orientation that you did the half lap/dado's? Essentially a jack that would hold the piece so that the top was parallel to the table surface. Then you could just use
the same program style with two cuts per opening to trim the edge banding flush with the existing slots.
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 03:49:43 PM MST, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...>
wrote:
?
David B. I think you suggested a flatbed CNC router setup?!!
?
?
Have you considered something like this?
I would think twice before I ran quickly away from a Felder CNC router, but there are a number of respected
brands who make smaller flatbed CNC routers that can be used to make 50 perfectly shaped cauls in a couple hours.? And many of them are light enough that you could host them up to your tall ceiling for storage when not in use.? Just think, having a small CNC
router would motivate you to finish mastering Fusion 360. ?
?
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Hi James:
?
Your chair joints look awesome, notwithstanding your displeasure on the dark joint line. I¡¯ve also had trouble with the dark lines from epoxy. West Systems has a genuinely clear version which is dries very
light in colour that might help?
?
I¡¯ve used urethane glues quite a bit and I¡¯m inclined to go that route. I like them except for the mess if I use too much.
?
Lucky
?
I would not use epoxy for edge banding.
I used TotalBoat clear high performance epoxy?to glue the arm to the rear leg for the rocking chair. I thought the epoxy?bond was stronger than Titebond III. This is the first time I used epoxy in the chair
build.?
But the result is not what I expected. The glue line of the front leg to seat using Titebond III is so much better (perfect) than the arm to rear leg joint using epoxy. It seems like epoxy had the chemical reaction with the walnut, no matter how much sanding
I did, I cannot get rid of the dark color on the glue line.
From now on, I will only use Titebond III.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Jul 15, 2024 at 8:04?PM David Luckensmeyer via
<dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:
Brian:
No worries. I had assumed that making a support to hold the curved edge parallel (i.e. the same orientation as I cut the half laps and dados in the
first place) would be ¡°too much trouble¡±. But now I see that all my alternatives are a fair bit of ¡°trouble¡± too, making this idea very relevant. The power of brainstorming!
?
David P:
Alas, a small CNC bed would be ever so useful! I have not seriously considered a small CNC like the Hammer, but despite my kicking and screaming and
protests to date, I think I would love having one in my shop. Ah yes, Fusion 360. One day ¡?
?
And Brett:
Thank you very much for sharing your experiences and what works for you. Your details are very helpful. I think I will have to experiment. If the
2mm is too thin, I can use it elsewhere and make new material at 3mm (as I have enough Zebrano)¡ And while we are at it, I was thinking of using Titebond III. I could use polyurethane, or epoxy, or TBII or ¡ but I thought TBIII would be fine?
?
Thanks so much everyone for your input. I sometimes think we should share more of what we are making. This group is more valuable (to me) than even
the biggest and best known of the online woodworking forums. Thanks heaps.
?
?
I missed that the uprights were veneered, I thought they were solid. If you use a pattern to cut the odd shape, could
you not use that same pattern to create a support that would hold the uprights in the same orientation that you did the half lap/dado's? Essentially a jack that would hold the piece so that the top was parallel to the table surface. Then you could just use
the same program style with two cuts per opening to trim the edge banding flush with the existing slots.
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 03:49:43 PM MST, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...>
wrote:
?
David B. I think you suggested a flatbed CNC router setup?!!
?
?
Have you considered something like this?
I would think twice before I ran quickly away from a Felder CNC router, but there are a number of respected
brands who make smaller flatbed CNC routers that can be used to make 50 perfectly shaped cauls in a couple hours.? And many of them are light enough that you could host them up to your tall ceiling for storage when not in use.? Just think, having a small CNC
router would motivate you to finish mastering Fusion 360. ?
?
|
Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
Gents,
?
All of you have had great ideas.? I really appreciate you leaning in.? ?I made some deals with my wife to get the new shop.
?
- The garage needed to go back to being JUST a garage.? No tools, no wood, no storage creep.? After having the vehicles back in the Garage for a few months, I agree.
- I just built my 990 sqft shop and part of the plan was that I already had a separate shed for the wood/sheet goods.? I do not have space in the new shop for storage.
- The shed is 50 yards from the shop across a concrete patio and pathway.
- The shed's door is 43" wide and 76" tall (I know, I did not build it) and is centered on a wall.? No stackers or forklifts for me, for now.? They would not fit down the path or in the shed. Someday I would love to add and reconfigure to allow for that.
- If need be, I can back up my truck right to the shop entrance and deliver lumber to the shop.
?
So, looks like I need to buy some racking...
?
PK
|
Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
Large I beam racks next to light duty Interlack store racks .I have the interlake racks on both sides of shop that start at 8¡¯ to 14¡¯ 80¡¯ total . I have lumber I have collected and used for 50 years . The interlake came out of pennys at a mall in madison 25 years ago. I made 25¡¯ light I beams they are attached to the top and bottom legs are bolted to the ground . This increases the value of my lease space by almost a 1/4 as I don¡¯t lose floor space.
    Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 15, 2024, at 8:03?PM, Mike Blake via groups.io <me.blake@...> wrote:
? Can you store the long stuff in your garage? ?The space adjacent to the garage door usually has a 12¡±-20¡± x 16¡¯ space for the long stuff¡. Unless it¡¯s crammed full of stuff like our shop ..
?
Mike?
?
|
Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
Can you store the long stuff in your garage? ?The space adjacent to the garage door usually has a 12¡±-20¡± x 16¡¯ space for the long stuff¡. Unless it¡¯s crammed full of stuff like our shop ..
?
Mike?
?
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
I would not use epoxy for edge banding.
I used TotalBoat clear high performance epoxy?to glue the arm to the rear leg for the rocking chair. I thought the epoxy?bond was stronger than Titebond III. This is the first time I used epoxy in the chair build.? But the result is not what I expected. The glue line of the front leg to seat using Titebond III is so much better (perfect) than the arm to rear leg joint using epoxy. It seems like epoxy had the chemical reaction with the walnut, no matter how much sanding I did, I cannot get rid of the dark color on the glue line. From now on, I will only use Titebond III.  
James
On Mon, Jul 15, 2024 at 8:04?PM David Luckensmeyer via <dhluckens= [email protected]> wrote:
Brian:
No worries. I had assumed that making a support to hold the curved edge parallel (i.e. the same orientation as I cut the half laps and dados in the first place) would be ¡°too much trouble¡±. But now I see that
all my alternatives are a fair bit of ¡°trouble¡± too, making this idea very relevant. The power of brainstorming!
?
David P:
Alas, a small CNC bed would be ever so useful! I have not seriously considered a small CNC like the Hammer, but despite my kicking and screaming and protests to date, I think I would love having one in my
shop. Ah yes, Fusion 360. One day ¡?
?
And Brett:
Thank you very much for sharing your experiences and what works for you. Your details are very helpful. I think I will have to experiment. If the 2mm is too thin, I can use it elsewhere and make new material
at 3mm (as I have enough Zebrano)¡ And while we are at it, I was thinking of using Titebond III. I could use polyurethane, or epoxy, or TBII or ¡ but I thought TBIII would be fine?
?
Thanks so much everyone for your input. I sometimes think we should share more of what we are making. This group is more valuable (to me) than even the biggest and best known of the online woodworking forums.
Thanks heaps.
?
?
I missed that the uprights were veneered, I thought they were solid. If you use a pattern to cut the odd shape, could you not use that same pattern to create a support that would hold the uprights
in the same orientation that you did the half lap/dado's? Essentially a jack that would hold the piece so that the top was parallel to the table surface. Then you could just use the same program style with two cuts per opening to trim the edge banding flush
with the existing slots.
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 03:49:43 PM MST, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?
David B. I think you suggested a flatbed CNC router setup?!!
?
?
Have you considered something like this?
I would think twice before I ran quickly away from a Felder CNC router, but there are a number of respected brands who make smaller flatbed CNC routers that can be used to make 50
perfectly shaped cauls in a couple hours.? And many of them are light enough that you could host them up to your tall ceiling for storage when not in use.? Just think, having a small CNC router would motivate you to finish mastering Fusion 360. ?
?
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Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Brian:
No worries. I had assumed that making a support to hold the curved edge parallel (i.e. the same orientation as I cut the half laps and dados in the first place) would be ¡°too much trouble¡±. But now I see that
all my alternatives are a fair bit of ¡°trouble¡± too, making this idea very relevant. The power of brainstorming!
?
David P:
Alas, a small CNC bed would be ever so useful! I have not seriously considered a small CNC like the Hammer, but despite my kicking and screaming and protests to date, I think I would love having one in my
shop. Ah yes, Fusion 360. One day ¡?
?
And Brett:
Thank you very much for sharing your experiences and what works for you. Your details are very helpful. I think I will have to experiment. If the 2mm is too thin, I can use it elsewhere and make new material
at 3mm (as I have enough Zebrano)¡ And while we are at it, I was thinking of using Titebond III. I could use polyurethane, or epoxy, or TBII or ¡ but I thought TBIII would be fine?
?
Thanks so much everyone for your input. I sometimes think we should share more of what we are making. This group is more valuable (to me) than even the biggest and best known of the online woodworking forums.
Thanks heaps.
?
?
I missed that the uprights were veneered, I thought they were solid. If you use a pattern to cut the odd shape, could you not use that same pattern to create a support that would hold the uprights
in the same orientation that you did the half lap/dado's? Essentially a jack that would hold the piece so that the top was parallel to the table surface. Then you could just use the same program style with two cuts per opening to trim the edge banding flush
with the existing slots.
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 03:49:43 PM MST, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?
David B. I think you suggested a flatbed CNC router setup?!!
?
?
Have you considered something like this?
I would think twice before I ran quickly away from a Felder CNC router, but there are a number of respected brands who make smaller flatbed CNC routers that can be used to make 50
perfectly shaped cauls in a couple hours. ?And many of them are light enough that you could host them up to your tall ceiling for storage when not in use. ?Just think, having a small CNC router would motivate you to finish mastering Fusion 360. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
?
?
|
imran
David Luckensmeyer
PK