Hi James:

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Your chair joints look awesome, notwithstanding your displeasure on the dark joint line. I’ve also had trouble with the dark lines from epoxy. West Systems has a genuinely clear version which is dries very light in colour that might help?

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I’ve used urethane glues quite a bit and I’m inclined to go that route. I like them except for the mess if I use too much.

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Lucky

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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of James Zhu via <james.zhu2=[email protected]>
Date: Tuesday, 16 July 2024 at 10:37
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Sliding Table “90 Degree Jig” #sawsetup

I would not use epoxy for edge banding.

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I used TotalBoat clear high performance epoxy?to glue the arm to the rear leg for the rocking chair. I thought the epoxy?bond was stronger than Titebond III. This is the first time I used epoxy in the chair build.?

But the result is not what I expected. The glue line of the front leg to seat using Titebond III is so much better (perfect) than the arm to rear leg joint using epoxy. It seems like epoxy had the chemical reaction with the walnut, no matter how much sanding I did, I cannot get rid of the dark color on the glue line.

From now on, I will only use Titebond III.

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<IMG_4868.JPEG>

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James

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On Mon, Jul 15, 2024 at 8:04?PM David Luckensmeyer via <dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:

Brian:

No worries. I had assumed that making a support to hold the curved edge parallel (i.e. the same orientation as I cut the half laps and dados in the first place) would be “too much trouble”. But now I see that all my alternatives are a fair bit of “trouble” too, making this idea very relevant. The power of brainstorming!

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David P:

Alas, a small CNC bed would be ever so useful! I have not seriously considered a small CNC like the Hammer, but despite my kicking and screaming and protests to date, I think I would love having one in my shop. Ah yes, Fusion 360. One day …?

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And Brett:

Thank you very much for sharing your experiences and what works for you. Your details are very helpful. I think I will have to experiment. If the 2mm is too thin, I can use it elsewhere and make new material at 3mm (as I have enough Zebrano)… And while we are at it, I was thinking of using Titebond III. I could use polyurethane, or epoxy, or TBII or … but I thought TBIII would be fine?

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Thanks so much everyone for your input. I sometimes think we should share more of what we are making. This group is more valuable (to me) than even the biggest and best known of the online woodworking forums. Thanks heaps.

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Warm regards,

Lucky

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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Brian Lamb via <blamb11=[email protected]>
Date: Tuesday, 16 July 2024 at 09:30
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Sliding Table “90 Degree Jig” #sawsetup

I missed that the uprights were veneered, I thought they were solid. If you use a pattern to cut the odd shape, could you not use that same pattern to create a support that would hold the uprights in the same orientation that you did the half lap/dado's? Essentially a jack that would hold the piece so that the top was parallel to the table surface. Then you could just use the same program style with two cuts per opening to trim the edge banding flush with the existing slots.

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Brian Lamb

blamb11@...

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On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 03:49:43 PM MST, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:

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David B. I think you suggested a flatbed CNC router setup?!! ?

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Lucky,

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Have you considered something like this?

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<XX-cnc-hnc3-hammer-feldergroup.png>

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I would think twice before I ran quickly away from a Felder CNC router, but there are a number of respected brands who make smaller flatbed CNC routers that can be used to make 50 perfectly shaped cauls in a couple hours.? And many of them are light enough that you could host them up to your tall ceiling for storage when not in use.? Just think, having a small CNC router would motivate you to finish mastering Fusion 360. ?

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David Best
DBestWorkshop@...

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