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FYI My inserts are quite large . On my SCMI SI 16 TW my whole saw assembly moves 5” to left of slider quite handy win ripping away from slider or pre cutting part before end profiling on shaper.

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Hi Terry, I used to remove difficult inserts for Ortli tools when they had a branch in middleton. If I recall I would apply heat with a propane torch to the screw head and when hot apply little slick

Same. but for the jointer/planer. No response. Let me know if you find contact information for him.

I have a Format 4, Dual 51 and two Maintenance issues need to be resolved: 1. ?I rotated all the carbide inserts for the second time. ?Three of the inserts are being stubborn...the torx bit simply

Hello Everyone, I thought I would circle back and just let everyone know that I did fix this issue. I spoke to a gentleman at Felder who was tremendously helpful. Turns out it was a combo of things:

Ryan, PM me if you’re still having calibration issues and want help. Regards, Rod

Hi Steve, I sent an email last night on CL and I never heard back from him. I am interested in the saw. Is there a way I can get in touch with your friend directly? Thank you. Jim

Posting on behalf of a friend: https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/tls/d/brooklyn-felder-k940s-sliding-tablesaw/7714728001.html

It depends on the height of your back-fence. If you make a back fence from plywood that is thinner than the material you are feeding, you won’t need narrow tires. Watch these two videos that clarify

Here is a drawing I use in the Alpine courses to explain the split fence and faults. Outside fence is usually better for cabinet parts if workpieces are short. But do not use an outside fence without

David, interesting stuff.. 1- It’s not clear to me why the rails or stiles might be too narrow for my standard-sized feeder wheels. Could you please explain that? 2 - I didn’t know that narrow

Hi David: Wow, I was not aware of Steve Rowe’s video on making a back-fence. Really clearly outlines the principles and I’m already sharing this video with friends who wish they had bought the

You should be able to offset your outfeed fence to properly support the more-narrow profiled section coming off the cutter. By staggering the fence offsets you can ensure the full profile is cut and

Hi Bob: I am not strictly familiar with “light marine plywood” from BGB but if it is reasonably priced (sub-$100 AUD) then I’m assuming it is light-weight pine which is nowhere near as sturdy as

As usual, I greatly appreciate the input of this group. Yes, David, the spindle was tilted. Not sure how that happened as I never adjust that, but it was off vertical. I swept it anyway and got even

Couple questions - are you removing the whole edge on both the cope cut and the profiling cut? It looks like from the pictures your tongue is way short. Hard to see in the picture. Does the cope

I’ll hazard a few guesses: Your spindle is not perpendicular to the cast iron top and you don’t realize it. Or your coping sled is angled downward at the spindle end due to an excessively high

I am confused by a problem I'm running into. I am setting up the KF700 with a set of Amana cope and stile cutters. I have the stile cutter on the bottom and the cope on top with about 40mm of spacers

Hi Steve, I assume you are asking for the 45 deg as the blade can be raised for 90 deg kerf. I was cutting a scarf joint on 9’ long walnut boards that were 1’ wide. One piece had to be cut upside