You should be able to offset your outfeed fence to properly support the more-narrow profiled section coming off the cutter. ?By staggering the fence offsets you can ensure the full profile is cut and still get the support of the material against the fence on both sides of the cutter. ?Of course you’ll have to take this into consideration during stock prep by making the material slightly wider to accommodate. ?I always leave the styles slightly over-width and then trim the outside edge of the door to fit after glue-up, rather than trying to build it to 0.5mm tolerances. ?I also leave the styles over-length and trim top and bottom of the door after glue-up. ?If the widths of the door styles and rails vary by a mm or two, you’re not likely to see that on something like a kitchen cab or vanity. ?But that’s just me - lots of ways to skin this cat. ?If you want to dialog about workflows, DM me - I have a number of videos that go into this topic.

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Personally, I would not run the inside profile without a power feeder - too dangerous. ?You may also discover that the standard feeder wheels are too wide to run cabinet door styles and rails. ?For this application I use narrow wheels on the feeder. ?

You can easily make your own back-fence from a sheet of plywood secured to the locked sliding table. ?Fellow FOG member Steve Rowe has a nice video about this you can see here: ?. Note that you can also secure the back-fence to the sliding table T-slots using a couple bolts into T-nuts below. ?