Hello everyone, the saw rise/fall on my BF6-31 has become stiffer over time, and could really use some cleaning and fresh grease, but I am struggling to reach the rack and pinion in order to clean it. Does anyone have any suggestions of how I could get better access to it, is there a panel that can be removed in order to access it better? I can manage to reach the saw tilt by sliding the cover across below the sliding table, but the rise/fall is really hard to reach. Thanks in advance Davide
FWIW, we got 3-winged LED light fixtures for our garage. The 3 wings go from horizontal to vertical. I was literally shocked how bright my 2 car garage is with these. It appears to be brighter than my shop where I have 34 4¡¯ LED tubes.
On Feb 4, 2024, at 6:09?PM, Larry <larry@...> wrote:
?Good Sunday all,
I have a spot in my shop that I want to mount a decent sized articulating light (maybe industrial...something I could swing overhead for a J/P, bandsaw, and drill press). My internet searches have come up with dock lights but thought I would ask what others might be using in their shop. Thanks.
On Feb 4, 2024, at 4:09?PM, Larry <larry@...> wrote:
Good Sunday all,
I have a spot in my shop that I want to mount a decent sized articulating light (maybe industrial...something I could swing overhead for a J/P, bandsaw, and drill press). My internet searches have come up with dock lights but thought I would ask what others might be using in their shop. Thanks.
I have a spot in my shop that I want to mount a decent sized articulating light (maybe industrial...something I could swing overhead for a J/P, bandsaw, and drill press). My internet searches have come up with dock lights but thought I would ask what others might be using in their shop. Thanks.
Sorry to drop the ball on this discussion. Thanks a lot for sharing your local knowledge on Sharp Panels and BGB. Darren Oates has a proven track record to producing commercial quantities of shop sawn materials.
I have a lot of respect for him!
?
Regarding ¡°making your own¡±, that¡¯s exactly what I do when I have a high-end project that needs a certain look, or I¡¯m using a very special piece of timber. The case of this chest of drawers was solid Australian
blackwood, but the client wanted master grade fiddleback Australian blackwood for the fronts. So I resawed a 50mm board into 4mm veneers and then made my own laminated drawer fronts by resawing lots of ¡°ordinary¡± blackwood, mixing up the grain, and then gluing
together a 25mm drawer front consisting of many layers of blackwood with the special fronts. This allowed maximum quality and control on a stable drawer front in ¡°solid wood¡± but with the special show faces.
Lucky, thanks for the response. Regarding the Wood Review article I was just suggesting a standard magazine article. I know they have plenty of good topics,
but the subject of built-in and library construction struck me is being really interesting and I don¡¯t believe they have done anything on this in the past.
Regarding plywood supplies, I¡¯ve just checked and it seems that Sharp Plywood have been reincarnated as Sharp Panels. I think they do custom veneer of plywood
and they would be worth a look. Also, there is a guy called Steve at Nerang with a company called BGB plywood . he sells relatively inexpensive ¡°marine¡± plywood. I bought a bundle of a couple of years ago for non-critical work such as planter boxes, a pool
pump cover and a tool cabinet I¡¯m planning on building. There are some pluses and minuses with this plywood. On the downside, although it is called Marine plywood I would never have it anywhere near a boat. it has a gaboon veneer on the outside. Many of the
sheets that I bought, had a defect, consisting of faint, dark lines, running perpendicular to the grain. I was planning on, finishing many of them with a solid acrylic, so this didn¡¯t concern me, and I thought that just a few passes with the sandpaper would
remove them. With every sheet of marine plywood I have ever used in the past the outer layer is not a wafer thin veneer, but an actual ply of reasonable thickness. With the BGB plywood, it is thin veneer, which you can sand straight through very easily.
On the plus side however, it seems to have very good thickness consistency and a very fair flat surface. Judging by the end grain, it doesn¡¯t have too many
voids. It¡¯s a couple of years since I bought the bundle I have, it¡¯s been stored in a carport, partially exposed, and is showing no signs of any delamination warping, etc.
I had a significant victory recently with my first attempt at shop sawing wide veneers(thanks to Darren Oates). I am now planning on doing my own veneers for
the aforementioned tool cabinet, and I think BGB plywood should be okay for this purpose. if you have some non-critical tasks coming up, it¡¯s probably worth buying a couple of sheets and doing your own assessment.
On Feb 4, 2024, at 8:59?AM, Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:
?Just in case any Hammer owners press the "buy now" button. The CMT standard dado set does not fully extend on Hammer machines , from memory I think that the maximum dado is 29mm.
Trevor Lusty Ireland
Re: Interesting Feeder for Smaller Saws and Router Table
Ultimately, this Auto-cut kickstarter feeder looks like a great light-weight easy to attach/remove solution for a traditional cabinet saw.? This would not work for a sliding table saw or a shaper.
I like the electro magnet if there is cast iron around to mount it to.? If the back end support was a magnet too, it would maybe mount more universally.??
In the mean time, I have a old-new-stock, never used feeder for sale if anyone is interested.? I have lots more pictures.
Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
On Feb 4, 2024, at 9:25?AM, Richard <rirving@...> wrote:
?I ditched my way-too-heavy-for-what-it-is Bosch ¡°axial glide¡± miter saw once I got a slider and migrated to a very light weight/low profile Makita sliding miter saw that can hang on the wall or fit under a workbench when not in use. That gives me what I need for extra long stock + repeatability like trim and can be moved around then out of the way very easily.
Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
On Feb 4, 2024, at 9:25?AM, Richard <rirving@...> wrote:
?I ditched my way-too-heavy-for-what-it-is Bosch ¡°axial glide¡± miter saw once I got a slider and migrated to a very light weight/low profile Makita sliding miter saw that can hang on the wall or fit under a workbench when not in use. That gives me what I need for extra long stock + repeatability like trim and can be moved around then out of the way very easily.
Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
I ditched my way-too-heavy-for-what-it-is Bosch ¡°axial glide¡± miter saw once I got a slider and migrated to a very light weight/low profile Makita sliding miter saw that can hang on the wall or fit under a workbench when not in use. That gives me what I need for extra long stock + repeatability like trim and can be moved around then out of the way very easily.
Just in case any Hammer owners press the "buy now" button. The CMT standard dado set does not fully extend on Hammer machines , from memory I think that the maximum dado is 29mm.
Alex, One more thing, if you speak with Felder ask for the connection diagram for the selector switch. It will put you in a better position to find a solution. Attached is for the 2 speed, 2 direction blade rise but one for your A14 will be similar.
On Feb 4, 2024, at 8:51?AM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Hi Alex,
In your machine, K&N selector switch does 2 functions. One is the control side and the other is power to the motor. It appears that the control side is working (indicated by the correct motor being started) but the power side apparently not. I assume that the motor is not getting full voltage. This can be a dirty connection or worse but it could also be that the control side is dropping in/out. In the later case you would have heard the chatter, so the issue me be the former. It may be worthwhile blowing some air and tapping the switch to dislodge any dust build up.
There is a thread here, from few yrs ago, where Felder supplied a different K&N selector switch with some jumpers to make it work the same as original, so that may be an option.
These switches are modular in design. Another used switch can be used to scavenge parts. I assume it is cam type. The option for each stage is to make connections in T, L or I orientations. Let¡¯s hope cleaning works or Felder comes thru (they are still using this type of switch) otherwise it would be bit of a project.
Imran Malik
On Feb 4, 2024, at 4:37?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Hello Imran,
My brother came over and replaced the large capacitor and hey presto, the planer and saw work perfectly. Sadly the ?spindle moulder wouldn¡¯t start. It was trying and rotated very slowly but wouldn¡¯t energise and start properly. Nick tested the
switch and found it to be faulty and I¡¯ve tried to locate the Kraus and Naimer ?A14 switch with no success at the moment. I¡¯ll call felder tomorrow. I did see a thread on this group which you contributed to which seemed to limit acquisition to felder directly.?
Alex
On 31 Jan 2024, at 14:06, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? That¡¯s encouraging, I¡¯ll let you know the outcome in a ?few days when my brother pops over to help out.?
Thanks?
Alex
On 31 Jan 2024, at 12:16, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Alex, Larger one is the start cap and the symptoms match. So hoping all will work once you replace it ?
Imran Malik
On Jan 31, 2024, at 7:08?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran, there is no visible evidence on the capacitors. I replaced the smaller one a while back which exploded and caught fire. I bought replacements for both but only replaced the defective one. I¡¯ll now replace the larger one and hope
it works. Many thanks for your help.?
Best regards? Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 17:49, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Thanks for the details. I hope the cap replacement fixes your issue. Hopefully you have replacement for both of them. If not look for one with a popped end. If no visual evidence, I would replace CA first as that is the start capacitor. It should be the
larger in value, assuming they are not same. If they are same value, you will need to beep their connections relative to the wiring diagram to find out which is CA and CB. Would be nice if they are labeled. Good luck.
Imran Malik
On Jan 30, 2024, at 12:10?PM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Imran, it¡¯s difficult to describe the symptoms as initially there was a grunting straining ?sound that seemed like a braking hum and it tripped the rcd. I turned it on again, the saw started, then the stop switch failed to operate instantly,
then when it did the motor stopped quite violently but the braking didn¡¯t switch itself off, it tripped the rcd. Now none of the motors run, I just get a laboured hum. I¡¯ll get the capacitor replaced and see what happens. Many thanks
Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 15:13, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Alex,
Sure, from your original post, I thought you were having braking issue, i.e. RCD trip at turn off during braking. But if the motors don¡¯t run then replacing caps should help. Once motors are running and the RCD trips during braking we can look into it.
Imran Malik
On Jan 30, 2024, at 10:02?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Hi Imran,?
I have another couple of diagrams which maybe could help. I didn¡¯t send them as didn¡¯t want to complicate. ?The machine was manufactured in 1999. The motors do not run, just lots of hum before the rcd trips. I¡¯m just going to fit the new capacitor
. Cheers?
Alex
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On 30 Jan 2024, at 14:51, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Hi Alex,
Correct, this schematic is for 2KW but for one w/o brake function. If the motors are starting up and running normally then capacitors are good.
My schematic has a date (bottom left) 15.09.1994. I cannot read the date on your schematic but I assume it is older because your machine does not show the low voltage transformer. So all switches are 220VAC vs ~24VAC in newer machines including the schematic
I have dated 1994.
If you machine has/had braking function then the schematic is not correct. I was fine for capacitors purpose. You should request a sch for your machine with brake function.
Imran Malik
On Jan 30, 2024, at 9:24?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
?
Hi Imran,?
I¡¯ve managed to find the big book, but it¡¯s only a spare parts book. However a capacitor replacement a while back (just one replaced) instigated a request for the wiring diagram from felder for this 2kw machine : ?I will replace the other capacitor
which I have to see if that rectifies the problem when I get time and see where we go from there.?
Thanks?
Alex
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On 28 Jan 2024, at 14:46, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? No Worries Alex. Is your machine ~5KW? If so, I see Y-D start which adds more relays; K4 is one of them. There is no K4 in the first schematic I shared which was for a 2KW machine.
Do you have the big book of your machine? The schematics and other important info is in there. Here are couple of shots to show you what is in the book that I have.
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
If you do not have the machine book with wiring diagram info as shown above, I suggest you contact Felder and get a copy. They may be able to guide you as well as to the location of the relays.
The pics you shared are not very sharp. Appears there is at least one more relay by the selector switch. Still it would be difficult to guide you because I do not know where these are located and for that matter if my schematic matches your machine in
the first place.
Once you have the wiring diagram and you poke around a bit more to try to locate components, I can try to help.
Imran Malik
On Jan 28, 2024, at 4:48?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? Hi Imran,?
Sorry for the late response, just found your message in my junk ! Thanks for the wiring diagram , most useful as I seem to have misplaced mine. Looking on the circuit board, I could only find K1 and K4 and the other connecting block visible from the top
where the capacitors feed into. There is nothing on the circuit board where the K2 and K3 markings are. Do you know if the circuit board is serviceable or do I replace the whole unit ??
Thanks? Alex
On 23 Jan 2024, at 23:50, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Yes, a wiring diagram. Sharing what I have but you should have a copy of yours. Now a days, it is placed in a pouch on the inside face of the electrical cabinet cover but not sure what they did back then.
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
Imran Malik
On Jan 23, 2024, at 5:59?PM, alexmoore4@... wrote:
?Hello Imran,
thanks for your kind response. ?I¡¯ll have a look for those components you mention tomorrow. I¡¯m not an electrician, although my brother is and if I can make it easier for him, all the better. I¡¯m guessing a schematic is a wiring diagram ?
Many thanks?
Alex