There is a rod that conects to the tilt if I remember correctly and has an aluminum bearing block, might also grease that and make sure it’s not pinching.
?Hello everyone, the saw rise/fall on my BF6-31 has become stiffer over time, and could really use some cleaning and fresh grease, but I am struggling to reach the rack and pinion in order to clean it. Does anyone have any suggestions of how I could get better access to it, is there a panel that can be removed in order to access it better? I can manage to reach the saw tilt by sliding the cover across below the sliding table, but the rise/fall is really hard to reach. Thanks in advance Davide
Re: Maintenance on BF6-31 - how to clean and lubricate saw rise/fall
?Hello everyone, the saw rise/fall on my BF6-31 has become stiffer over time, and could really use some cleaning and fresh grease, but I am struggling to reach the rack and pinion in order to clean it. Does anyone have any suggestions of how I could get better access to it, is there a panel that can be removed in order to access it better? I can manage to reach the saw tilt by sliding the cover across below the sliding table, but the rise/fall is really hard to reach. Thanks in advance Davide
Maintenance on BF6-31 - how to clean and lubricate saw rise/fall
Hello everyone, the saw rise/fall on my BF6-31 has become stiffer over time, and could really use some cleaning and fresh grease, but I am struggling to reach the rack and pinion in order to clean it. Does anyone have any suggestions of how I could get better access to it, is there a panel that can be removed in order to access it better? I can manage to reach the saw tilt by sliding the cover across below the sliding table, but the rise/fall is really hard to reach. Thanks in advance Davide
FWIW, we got 3-winged LED light fixtures for our garage. The 3 wings go from horizontal to vertical. I was literally shocked how bright my 2 car garage is with these. It appears to be brighter than my shop where I have 34 4’ LED tubes.
On Feb 4, 2024, at 6:09?PM, Larry <larry@...> wrote:
?Good Sunday all,
I have a spot in my shop that I want to mount a decent sized articulating light (maybe industrial...something I could swing overhead for a J/P, bandsaw, and drill press). My internet searches have come up with dock lights but thought I would ask what others might be using in their shop. Thanks.
On Feb 4, 2024, at 4:09?PM, Larry <larry@...> wrote:
Good Sunday all,
I have a spot in my shop that I want to mount a decent sized articulating light (maybe industrial...something I could swing overhead for a J/P, bandsaw, and drill press). My internet searches have come up with dock lights but thought I would ask what others might be using in their shop. Thanks.
I have a spot in my shop that I want to mount a decent sized articulating light (maybe industrial...something I could swing overhead for a J/P, bandsaw, and drill press). My internet searches have come up with dock lights but thought I would ask what others might be using in their shop. Thanks.
Sorry to drop the ball on this discussion. Thanks a lot for sharing your local knowledge on Sharp Panels and BGB. Darren Oates has a proven track record to producing commercial quantities of shop sawn materials.
I have a lot of respect for him!
?
Regarding “making your own”, that’s exactly what I do when I have a high-end project that needs a certain look, or I’m using a very special piece of timber. The case of this chest of drawers was solid Australian
blackwood, but the client wanted master grade fiddleback Australian blackwood for the fronts. So I resawed a 50mm board into 4mm veneers and then made my own laminated drawer fronts by resawing lots of “ordinary” blackwood, mixing up the grain, and then gluing
together a 25mm drawer front consisting of many layers of blackwood with the special fronts. This allowed maximum quality and control on a stable drawer front in “solid wood” but with the special show faces.
Lucky, thanks for the response. Regarding the Wood Review article I was just suggesting a standard magazine article. I know they have plenty of good topics,
but the subject of built-in and library construction struck me is being really interesting and I don’t believe they have done anything on this in the past.
Regarding plywood supplies, I’ve just checked and it seems that Sharp Plywood have been reincarnated as Sharp Panels. I think they do custom veneer of plywood
and they would be worth a look. Also, there is a guy called Steve at Nerang with a company called BGB plywood . he sells relatively inexpensive “marine” plywood. I bought a bundle of a couple of years ago for non-critical work such as planter boxes, a pool
pump cover and a tool cabinet I’m planning on building. There are some pluses and minuses with this plywood. On the downside, although it is called Marine plywood I would never have it anywhere near a boat. it has a gaboon veneer on the outside. Many of the
sheets that I bought, had a defect, consisting of faint, dark lines, running perpendicular to the grain. I was planning on, finishing many of them with a solid acrylic, so this didn’t concern me, and I thought that just a few passes with the sandpaper would
remove them. With every sheet of marine plywood I have ever used in the past the outer layer is not a wafer thin veneer, but an actual ply of reasonable thickness. With the BGB plywood, it is thin veneer, which you can sand straight through very easily.
On the plus side however, it seems to have very good thickness consistency and a very fair flat surface. Judging by the end grain, it doesn’t have too many
voids. It’s a couple of years since I bought the bundle I have, it’s been stored in a carport, partially exposed, and is showing no signs of any delamination warping, etc.
I had a significant victory recently with my first attempt at shop sawing wide veneers(thanks to Darren Oates). I am now planning on doing my own veneers for
the aforementioned tool cabinet, and I think BGB plywood should be okay for this purpose. if you have some non-critical tasks coming up, it’s probably worth buying a couple of sheets and doing your own assessment.
On Feb 4, 2024, at 8:59?AM, Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:
?Just in case any Hammer owners press the "buy now" button. The CMT standard dado set does not fully extend on Hammer machines , from memory I think that the maximum dado is 29mm.
Trevor Lusty Ireland
Re: Interesting Feeder for Smaller Saws and Router Table
Ultimately, this Auto-cut kickstarter feeder looks like a great light-weight easy to attach/remove solution for a traditional cabinet saw.? This would not work for a sliding table saw or a shaper.
I like the electro magnet if there is cast iron around to mount it to.? If the back end support was a magnet too, it would maybe mount more universally.??
In the mean time, I have a old-new-stock, never used feeder for sale if anyone is interested.? I have lots more pictures.
Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
On Feb 4, 2024, at 9:25?AM, Richard <rirving@...> wrote:
?I ditched my way-too-heavy-for-what-it-is Bosch “axial glide” miter saw once I got a slider and migrated to a very light weight/low profile Makita sliding miter saw that can hang on the wall or fit under a workbench when not in use. That gives me what I need for extra long stock + repeatability like trim and can be moved around then out of the way very easily.
Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
On Feb 4, 2024, at 9:25?AM, Richard <rirving@...> wrote:
?I ditched my way-too-heavy-for-what-it-is Bosch “axial glide” miter saw once I got a slider and migrated to a very light weight/low profile Makita sliding miter saw that can hang on the wall or fit under a workbench when not in use. That gives me what I need for extra long stock + repeatability like trim and can be moved around then out of the way very easily.
Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
I ditched my way-too-heavy-for-what-it-is Bosch “axial glide” miter saw once I got a slider and migrated to a very light weight/low profile Makita sliding miter saw that can hang on the wall or fit under a workbench when not in use. That gives me what I need for extra long stock + repeatability like trim and can be moved around then out of the way very easily.