This is a maple workbench. I can't imagine it would be economical to ship but if interested droop me a line. asking $750 but willing to negotiate.
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Felder KX7 Slider saw for sale - $3000
Hello all,
I¡¯m moving/shrinking my shop, as a result of our building being sold/gentrified, we are all being evicted. I¡¯m ?keeping my felder combo machine and selling the large/full size KX7 panel saw.?
What¡¯s wrong: The safety switch that controls both the scoring and main cutting functions started cutting out, and now has cut out fully, so it won¡¯t power up. I blew out possible dust, checked connections, but it seems it just needs replacing. I might have even wrote to this forum when it first started fitzing. I was usually able to try the switch a couple times, but not anymore. Full failure occurred a couple months before we received notice to vacate, and I was putting off having it fixed bc i had the combination machine, and i was doing a long term on-site job. So it goes.
Anyway, the saw is otherwise fully functional, 3ph. Slider works as it should. I am the second owner, and have had it for about 14 yrs. I bought it from a friend, and both of us are one-person shops. Not a production shop. I make a combination of furniture, some cabinets, and art/sculpture fabrications. This saw probably gets used about 20 days a year, if that. it still has the blade from the original owner.
Ive attached photos, will attach a video of the slider in motion if possible.?
I¡¯m selling it for $3000, firm. I will be available to show it this week, starting Tuesday morning, 7/5.
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Hi Brad, slider length s 2800mm which is 110". 1500MM outrigger (45.25" x25.25") and 1100mm (43") rear crosscut fence.
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Donated Ronland Combo machine and stand lone shaper for sale
My woodworking club is selling a Robland Combo machine and a Champ/Fond Shaper with extensive cutters for attractive prices.? Both items were donated by an estate. They are located in a home shop in the San Francisco East Bay and need to be removed promptly, crating and shipping responsibility of the buyer.? The sale proceeds will be used for community projects and support of our club and its classroom shop.??See attached flyer for details and contact information.
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Re: Replacing Silent Power inserts
Seven years in with my A3-31 silent head. I word with very hard and abrasive West Australian timbers. Just on the third rotation. Probably could have gone another year on the second.?
Two big advantages for me is, one, the low noise level, and two, the ability to remove an offending nicked edge in a couple of minutes.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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I¡¯m intrigued to see you using (I assume so from the orientation in the photo) it on the table saw. ?When I bought my feeder for the C3-31 combi, I thought that I¡¯d spec it enough to cover all three functions. ?I soon came to the conclusion that using it to rip down timber was, for me, a no-No as IMO ripping is THE one operation where you have to listen to what the wood is doing, observe if the two are starting to close up the kerf post-riving blade etc and so adjust the feedrate accordingly.
The thought of forcing the timber through using the feeder just did not appeal for those reasons.
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On 1 Jul 2022, at 23:20, PK < pk@...> wrote:
On my old Table saw - crude test.? We learned later that the mag strips need to be parallel to the arm (or we need larger magnets).
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PK
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Re: Replacing Silent Power inserts
Many thanks to all and the very good advice.
The comment regarding them lasting a long time is spot on and I wish I¡¯d realised this before rotating mine as my machine has had even less use ! ?
Getting rid of the resin takes forever - even with a suitable spray. ?Guess it depends on how resinous the wood is. ?
One of my inserts had broken and it was this that was causing the marked surface. ?Of course, I went ahead and ordered a new set before realising this.
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Tom,
Thanks for sharing valuable advice. I would not have known this.
Steve On Jul 1, 2022, at 10:39 AM, tom@... wrote:
Hi Roger!?
The first question I would ask is: "When you rotated your inserts, did you fully remove them and clean all of the resin and dust off the tooling head and back side of the inserts?"?
Most of the videos from the different manufacturers show somebody backing off the screw just enough to rotate the cutter, rotating the cutter, then tightening again. It has been my experience that the cutters and tooling bod can accumulate dust and resins that prevent the inserts from seating properly, resulting in a less that desirable cut, or risking cracking the cutter because it wasn't seated properly. My process is to completely remove the cutter, clean it and the tool body with a tooth brush and Boeshield "Blade & Bit Cleaner", then reinstalling the cutter to the proper torque setting.?
Obviously, this is not a quick process, I'd suggest putting on a good podcast or audio book. I hope this is helpful, good luck!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: CF731 For sale Cambridge UK
Hello Neil, I¡¯m ?a new member of the group. I sent you a private message but I¡¯m not sure if it was sent.
?I¡¯m based in the UK and just setting up a new shop so I am interested. The CF731 is probably too wide for me as the part of the shop where the machines will go is 6.8 x 3.3 m. ?The KF700 is top of my wish list as I have previously owned one and I like the versatility of the saw:spindle combination.?
Unfortunately I am in France on an extended walk in the alps. Luckily I have a good phone signal tonight even though I¡¯m in a refuge at 1900m. I don¡¯t plan to be home in the Uk until September so ?are you able to wait until then? I¡¯m happy to sort out details remotely. I have a relative in Cambridge who could help.?
I¡¯d appreciate more information about the KF700. Do you know if it feasible to convert the CF731 so it can be used as two separate machines? I¡¯m a retired mechanical engineer so I could work out the details.?
Best regards,
Barrie Stott
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File /Electrical/Implementing VFD in a Multi-Motor Machine.pdf uploaded
#file-notice
The following files and folders have been uploaded to
the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: imranindiana <imranindiana@...>
Description:
Suggested mechanization to implement VFD in a machine with multiple motors
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Re: Replacing Silent Power inserts
Tom,
Thanks for sharing valuable advice. I would not have known this.
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On Jul 1, 2022, at 10:39 AM, tom@... wrote:
Hi Roger!?
The first question I would ask is: "When you rotated your inserts, did you fully remove them and clean all of the resin and dust off the tooling head and back side of the inserts?"?
Most of the videos from the different manufacturers show somebody backing off the screw just enough to rotate the cutter, rotating the cutter, then tightening again. It has been my experience that the cutters and tooling bod can accumulate dust and resins that prevent the inserts from seating properly, resulting in a less that desirable cut, or risking cracking the cutter because it wasn't seated properly. My process is to completely remove the cutter, clean it and the tool body with a tooth brush and Boeshield "Blade & Bit Cleaner", then reinstalling the cutter to the proper torque setting.?
Obviously, this is not a quick process, I'd suggest putting on a good podcast or audio book. I hope this is helpful, good luck!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: KF700 table extension for sale, How/where to list
Both of these are sold.
Thanks
Jack
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Re: Replacing Silent Power inserts
I don¡¯t own a Felder jointer/planer, but I follow a similar process to Tom. The first time I did it on my 20¡± Byrd head, I felt like I got sold a bag of goods. Every bit of marketing material makes it seem like it takes 10 mins to rotate the insert and then you are done. It¡¯s more like an hour to remove, clean, and properly torque 180-200 inserts. Complete PITA. Tersa knives on the other hand are about 45-60 seconds to swap.?
Other than cleaning the cutterhead body and inserts(I¡¯m 99% sure this is your problem) my only advice on seating the inserts is to wiggle it into place. On my head, it very obviously settles/clicks into the correct position. Same for the screw settling perfectly into the countersink of the insert. If it¡¯s off slightly then chances are the insert is skewed.?
The last thing I will say about inserts in general is they last a longggggg time before rotating. I was a dummy and rotated mine after the first year of use. Absolutely no change in surface quality. I then went 3ish years, and I think that is the correct cadence. For reference, that¡¯s more like 5-6,000 bdft of 8/4 hardwood per edge.?
Patrick
On Fri, Jul 1, 2022 at 11:39 AM < tom@...> wrote: Hi Roger!?
The first question I would ask is: "When you rotated your inserts, did you fully remove them and clean all of the resin and dust off the tooling head and back side of the inserts?"?
Most of the videos from the different manufacturers show somebody backing off the screw just enough to rotate the cutter, rotating the cutter, then tightening again. It has been my experience that the cutters and tooling bod can accumulate dust and resins that prevent the inserts from seating properly, resulting in a less that desirable cut, or risking cracking the cutter because it wasn't seated properly. My process is to completely remove the cutter, clean it and the tool body with a tooth brush and Boeshield "Blade & Bit Cleaner", then reinstalling the cutter to the proper torque setting.?
Obviously, this is not a quick process, I'd suggest putting on a good podcast or audio book. I hope this is helpful, good luck!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Replacing Silent Power inserts
Hi Roger!?
The first question I would ask is: "When you rotated your inserts, did you fully remove them and clean all of the resin and dust off the tooling head and back side of the inserts?"?
Most of the videos from the different manufacturers show somebody backing off the screw just enough to rotate the cutter, rotating the cutter, then tightening again. It has been my experience that the cutters and tooling bod can accumulate dust and resins that prevent the inserts from seating properly, resulting in a less that desirable cut, or risking cracking the cutter because it wasn't seated properly. My process is to completely remove the cutter, clean it and the tool body with a tooth brush and Boeshield "Blade & Bit Cleaner", then reinstalling the cutter to the proper torque setting.?
Obviously, this is not a quick process, I'd suggest putting on a good podcast or audio book. I hope this is helpful, good luck!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Jay, what is the slider length on this saw?
Brad
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Replacing Silent Power inserts
So I got my torque wrench. Removed, rotated, refitted, tightened.
Haven¡¯t used it much but today planing a wide board and I notice that I¡¯ve got some inserts slightly badly fitted¡I faffed around trying to work out which ones they were and failed miserably. Then I noticed that one oif the inserts had bits missing and so I¡¯ve bitten the bullet and bought a new set.
But what should I look out for when re-fitting so that they are all at the same height ? I thought I¡¯d done OK¡but clearly not.
TIA
Roger
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Thanks PK whenever you get a chance. Magswitch told me they are coming out with 2 different bases this fall one mounts directly to the post base of small feeders and a larger one that will have a plate that they can be bolted too.
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On Jun 30, 2022, at 11:52 AM, PK <pk@...> wrote:
?Mark,
I can send you some pics.? I use it with my Comatic DC40.? Could use larger magnets, but it does work.
PK??
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Re: KF700 table extension for sale, How/where to list
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Yes. I thought of that too while I was trying to get adjusted. I made sure the nuts on the backside were loose as well. It did not result in any additional movement for me. Great! That it worked for you.? When I go out there today, I am hoping to be able to move on to the in feed side. Not sure yet but hopeful.
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On Jun 29, 2022, at 4:22 PM, Chad75 <shouldercords@...> wrote:
?I finally figured out my machine. The four bolts you loosen directly under the hinge have four corresponding nuts on the back of the machine. I loosened both the front and back on the infeed table of my machine. This causes the whole hinge to rock back and forth making the adjustment screws worthless. You might try lightly loosening the back nuts and it will give you more play in the hinge movement. A word of warning though, it could also cause your entire table to shift. My main problem was I had forgotten about the back nuts because you can still tighten the front bolts. After walking away from it for a day I finally figured out the problem and now have it dialed in. Maybe this can help you out.?
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Mark,
I can send you some pics.? I use it with my Comatic DC40.? Could use larger magnets, but it does work.
PK??
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Brian
Jim Fleming
Barrie Stott
PK
Jack
Tom Gensmer