Re: Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options
Hi Richard,? Segmented steel infeed and chip breaker and smooth steel for out feed, no screwing around approach. Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 9, 2021, at 2:43 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Hi Richard,
Rubber infeed rollers are a good idea when two conditions exist: ?1) you’re working with soft woods that would “dent” under pressure from a serrated infeed roller, and 2) you’re working with really thin dimensional material (under ?”). ?I do this kind of work myself - making soundboards for harpsichords out of sitka spruce (soft) with a thickness of 3.5mm. ?For this I need rubber on infeed and outfeed side. ?
If you don’t ever expect to do this type of work (making classical guitar bodies, violins, ukuleles, etc.) you should stick with a steel infeed roller. ?A rubber outfeed roller is helpful if you’re doing any species of hardwood to under 5mm thickness - it will control the flutter of the material better. ?And on thicker material, the rubber outfeed roller will conform to the wood thickness to pull it through straight and without skewing the stock to an angle.
Rubber rollers (either side of the cutter) are a wear item. ?On the infeed side, the leading corner of material pushed into the roller will slightly chew up the rubber before ?it is grabbed and pushed into the cutter. ?Over time, the roller ends up full of score lines and will need to be recovered with fresh material. ? Here’s are examples of what dimensioning cabinets door stiles/rails on edge will do to the infeed roller over time. ? ? ? ?
They are easy enough to get recovered. ?The cost on my Dual 51 to recover both rollers is about $450 and turnaround time is about a week. ??I recover the rollers with polyurethane, not latex rubber. ?Poly has more grip and will not glaze over nearly as quickly as rubber (same is true for power feeder tires). ?If you’re doing mostly hardwood, the a 70 or 80 durometer density is appropriate. ?If mostly softwoods, I would back down to 60 durometer and expect to have to recover the roller more often. ?
Hope this helps.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
My Kappa 400 xmotion and profil 45z are on the way over the pond as we speak. im ready to purchase a new Jointer and planer , for the jointer i think i have it figured out im doing the A951L with the Silent power head , 10hp motor , aigner fence and power feeder prep. For the planer im doing the Exact 63 , 10hp , silent power head and digi drive and dual outfeed rollers.?
What im going back and forth on are the infeed and outfeed rollers. Segmented steel , single spiral-toothed steel , or rubber for the infeed and Sandblasted steel or rubber for the dual outfeed??
Thoughts??
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Re: Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options
Hi Richard,
Rubber infeed rollers are a good idea when two conditions exist: ?1) you’re working with soft woods that would “dent” under pressure from a serrated infeed roller, and 2) you’re working with really thin dimensional material (under ?”). ?I do this kind of work myself - making soundboards for harpsichords out of sitka spruce (soft) with a thickness of 3.5mm. ?For this I need rubber on infeed and outfeed side. ?
If you don’t ever expect to do this type of work (making classical guitar bodies, violins, ukuleles, etc.) you should stick with a steel infeed roller. ?A rubber outfeed roller is helpful if you’re doing any species of hardwood to under 5mm thickness - it will control the flutter of the material better. ?And on thicker material, the rubber outfeed roller will conform to the wood thickness to pull it through straight and without skewing the stock to an angle.
Rubber rollers (either side of the cutter) are a wear item. ?On the infeed side, the leading corner of material pushed into the roller will slightly chew up the rubber before ?it is grabbed and pushed into the cutter. ?Over time, the roller ends up full of score lines and will need to be recovered with fresh material. ? Here’s are examples of what dimensioning cabinets door stiles/rails on edge will do to the infeed roller over time. ? ? ? ?
They are easy enough to get recovered. ?The cost on my Dual 51 to recover both rollers is about $450 and turnaround time is about a week. ??I recover the rollers with polyurethane, not latex rubber. ?Poly has more grip and will not glaze over nearly as quickly as rubber (same is true for power feeder tires). ?If you’re doing mostly hardwood, the a 70 or 80 durometer density is appropriate. ?If mostly softwoods, I would back down to 60 durometer and expect to have to recover the roller more often. ?
Hope this helps.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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My Kappa 400 xmotion and profil 45z are on the way over the pond as we speak. im ready to purchase a new Jointer and planer , for the jointer i think i have it figured out im doing the A951L with the Silent power head , 10hp motor , aigner fence and power feeder prep. For the planer im doing the Exact 63 , 10hp , silent power head and digi drive and dual outfeed rollers.?
What im going back and forth on are the infeed and outfeed rollers. Segmented steel , single spiral-toothed steel , or rubber for the infeed and Sandblasted steel or rubber for the dual outfeed??
Thoughts??
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Re: Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options
I have a Martin T45 with 2 x rubber outfeed rollers and a segmented indeed roller.??
The 2 x outfeed rollers are amazing.? I would order it this way again for sure.?? Segmented roller isn't mandatory .. I see the benefits of it at times but the rubber outeed rollers is the way to go.??
On Monday, March 8, 2021, Richard Haislip < innovativebuildingservicesllc@...> wrote: My Kappa 400 xmotion and profil 45z are on the way over the pond as we speak. im ready to purchase a new Jointer and planer , for the jointer i think i have it figured out im doing the A951L with the Silent power head , 10hp motor , aigner fence and power feeder prep. For the planer im doing the Exact 63 , 10hp , silent power head and digi drive and dual outfeed rollers.?
What im going back and forth on are the infeed and outfeed rollers. Segmented steel , single spiral-toothed steel , or rubber for the infeed and Sandblasted steel or rubber for the dual outfeed??
Thoughts??
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Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors
I am glad Michael started this thread. With Chris’s link I learned what to look for. Lo and behold, I have a center marking widget in my kwikset kit. It is black so it kindof disappeared in the black plastic molded insert until I yanked on it. Got a shiny silver tip. Probably never been used.
Thanks guys.
Imran?
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On Mar 8, 2021, at 8:56 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? Chris,
Thanks for the link. I will look if my kit has a center marker.
Imran
On Mar 8, 2021, at 3:55 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote:
? Hi Imran ? I believe the kits are similar with one have some router templates.? You can buy the templates a la carte too .? The support page has good information.? Check out the below links. ? ? ? https://www.templaco.com/html/SupportDocs.asp ? ? Regards, ? Chris ? ? Hi Tom,
Those are some nice features. Your Templaco is diff than what Chris shared.
If you get time can you share the part of instructions that explain transferring location from door to jamb? I did not get any instructions with my used kwikset, so maybe I have this feature but not aware of it. No hurries.
Imran
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Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors
Chris,
Thanks for the link. I will look if my kit has a center marker.
Imran
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On Mar 8, 2021, at 3:55 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote: ? Hi Imran ? I believe the kits are similar with one have some router templates.? You can buy the templates a la carte too .? The support page has good information.? Check out the below links. ? ? ? https://www.templaco.com/html/SupportDocs.asp ? ? Regards, ? Chris ? ? Hi Tom,
Those are some nice features. Your Templaco is diff than what Chris shared.
If you get time can you share the part of instructions that explain transferring location from door to jamb? I did not get any instructions with my used kwikset, so maybe I have this feature but not aware of it. No hurries.
Imran
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Re: Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options
Jp i placed my order in november.
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Re: Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options
I also?have a Kappa 400 Xmotion on order, when did you place your order? I am expecting mine the first part of July.
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Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options
My Kappa 400 xmotion and profil 45z are on the way over the pond as we speak. im ready to purchase a new Jointer and planer , for the jointer i think i have it figured out im doing the A951L with the Silent power head , 10hp motor , aigner fence and power feeder prep. For the planer im doing the Exact 63 , 10hp , silent power head and digi drive and dual outfeed rollers.?
What im going back and forth on are the infeed and outfeed rollers. Segmented steel , single spiral-toothed steel , or rubber for the infeed and Sandblasted steel or rubber for the dual outfeed??
Thoughts??
|
Thanks once again for all of the information guys!
David - your message was exactly what I was looking for!? I was thinking along the exact same lines, but wanted to hear it from someone with some experience.? It sounds like the stop button on the slider is not all that critical in the function of the saw.? I will tell Felder that I either want them to send a new sliding table assembly or give me some type of credit for the issue.? My gut feeling (which you confirmed) is that I do not want any technician doing field work on the sliding table rail assemblies.??
Imran - I really appreciate your willingness and interest in helping, but I agree with Mark and David that troubleshooting the problem myself is unlikely to get me anywhere.? The Felder tech spent a couple of hours with a multimeter trying to trouble shoot and didn't get anywhere.? His final analysis was that there was a short somewhere between the switch and the electrical panel.? ?
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Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors
Hi Imran ? I believe the kits are similar with one have some router templates.? You can buy the templates a la carte too .? The support page has good information.? Check out the below links. ? ? ? https://www.templaco.com/html/SupportDocs.asp ? ? Regards, ? Chris ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io Sent: Monday, March 8, 2021 2:09 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors ? Hi Tom,
Those are some nice features. Your Templaco is diff than what Chris shared.
If you get time can you share the part of instructions that explain transferring location from door to jamb? I did not get any instructions with my used kwikset, so maybe I have this feature but not aware of it. No hurries.
Imran
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Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors
Hi Tom,
Those are some nice features. Your Templaco is diff than what Chris shared.
If you get time can you share the part of instructions that explain transferring location from door to jamb? I did not get any instructions with my used kwikset, so maybe I have this feature but not aware of it. No hurries.
Imran
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Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors
+1 on the Templaco boring jig. ?
I install a fair number of doors, and it's really nice to just roll up, make one mark, clamp, bore, remove assembly, install handle, route for the plates using the supplied templates, and get on with my life.?
The advantage of the Templaco kit is that, in addition to the cast iron drilling template and carbide-tipped drill bits, it also includes routing templates for the handle, dead bolt, strike, and a marking point for transferring locations from the door to the jamb. Once you've marked the handle location, the rest is more or less "automated". Yes, it's $500, but in my opinion you get a lot of kit for that price.?
That being said, if you're performing the work as a hobby, then yes marking each location has worked well for generations, it's just much slower.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Router Spindle Compatibility with 240 Hood
I modified my 240 hood so I could get to the center line with the Aigner plates. Before the mod I would use the Felder fence plates with the router.
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 10:36 AM To: [email protected]Subject: [FOG] Router Spindle Compatibility with 240 Hood Guys just piddling around in shop and it occurred to me to check how far back my fence plates go. When I mount the hood in the rear set of holes, the fence plates actually sits behind the centerline of the spindle. I thought a modification to the micro adjust was required for this. So is it possible that all KF700 are not same? I know that Aigner fence plates are thicker and from posts definitely sit proud of the spindle center line but I am pretty sure I read here that even felder stock fence plates were also an issue. It would be good to clarify this for people considering to buy a KF or ones with KF and considering to buy a router spindle. Imran
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Re: Felder 500-03-019 dado blade how to use
I just talked to Felder. $83.00 for new ones. Does anyone know of any cheaper ones. In my defense I did not get any instructions that showed the shims. But 3 years is a long time. I’m more of a tool collector. Lol My K3 has maybe 8 hours on it. Can’t find things I want to build, so I thought maybe some boxes with box joints. I have the incra box joint set I never used as It will fit in the slider so I guess I will try to make 8mm joints. Thanks for your help.
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Re: Felder 500-03-019 dado blade how to use
In case of K975 there is a shim set that I believe comes with saw. I bought it used so I am not certain but I only got a 3mm shim with the saw. The full set consists of, 1 each of 3, 6, 9 mm. These are used to make up free space on the arbor. Then there are shims that allow you to set the kerf width.
Not sure if all Felder saws are built this way or not.
Imran
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On Mar 8, 2021, at 12:10 PM, Doug Middlebrook via groups.io <middlebrookdoug@...> wrote: ?
It would be better if Felder gave better instructions. At first I thought you could flip the one side to the outer side. But that’s why I asked. Thanks for your help.
On Monday, March 8, 2021, 10:08:13 AM EST, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
I just put the shims between the segments to get the? kerf
thickness I want.
I modified my cutter set so that I can assemble it? with all the
components so as to get a larger kerf.
On 3/7/21 4:40 PM, Doug Middlebrook via
groups.io wrote:
I bought the dado blade 3 years ago and just went to use it but I
did not get any shims, not sure it should have them. Been on line
and see shims but no real instructions. I only bought the 8-15 mm.
Does anyone have paper instructions. I must be getting old. Lol It
is supposed to be adjustable. If I leave it together I get the
8mm. I think it might be an easy answer. ? Thanks Doug
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Re: Felder 500-03-019 dado blade how to use
It would be better if Felder gave better instructions. At first I thought you could flip the one side to the outer side. But that’s why I asked. Thanks for your help.
On Monday, March 8, 2021, 10:08:13 AM EST, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
I just put the shims between the segments to get the? kerf
thickness I want.
I modified my cutter set so that I can assemble it? with all the
components so as to get a larger kerf.
On 3/7/21 4:40 PM, Doug Middlebrook via
groups.io wrote:
I bought the dado blade 3 years ago and just went to use it but I
did not get any shims, not sure it should have them. Been on line
and see shims but no real instructions. I only bought the 8-15 mm.
Does anyone have paper instructions. I must be getting old. Lol It
is supposed to be adjustable. If I leave it together I get the
8mm. I think it might be an easy answer. ? Thanks Doug
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Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors
If it’s just one batch of doors, there’s nothing wrong with measuring and marking centers, drilling a small pilot hole through the door, then drilling with a 2 1/8”?forstner bit, drilling most of the way through one face, then flipping over to finish from the other side. Then a 1” forstner on the edge. You can make a simple template for routing?the faceplate, or buy one. The jigs are great for helping you drill?parallel to the edge and perpendicular to the face, but if you’re careful, you’ll be fine. The trickier one is the edge bore, especially if you’re doing 1 3/8” thick doors, but even then it’s not that deep of a cut to where you risk going too far off track.?I stopped using the jigs years ago because they seemed like they took more time to set up and mess with. But I only ever had the cheap plastic ones.? -Shawn
On Monday, March 8, 2021, 9:17 AM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote: I agree the templaco is expensive which I acquired used a decade ago… ?Rockler may have a cheaper approach. ?? ? ? I have only used it once almost 2 yrs ago but found that I had to mess with it a bit to ensure the jaws are parallel. The bit was also not sharp but that is not a fault. There is no cushioning on clamp faces but that is normally not a concern with hard wood. It does not offer any alignment aid from door to jamb, so you are working with your markings. Keep in mind that I bought it used so my issue could be due to wear. Once you get used to Festool (generally good quality) it is easy to find fault. I also think $400-$500 (templaco that Chris shared) is a bit much for what you get. On the other hand it did work on my door that was 2.25” thick. Are there any other kind available? ? Thanks Imran. It looks like Big Horn makes a similar jig. What do you find it’s shortcomings are?
On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:44 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I have Kwikset 91380 which is apparently discontinued. I bought it used. It does the job but I cannot say I love it. ?I am planning to build new passage doors for my house and I am curious what methods, machinery, jigs and techniques people use to for boring for locksets.
Thanks in advance,
Michael
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Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors
I agree the templaco is expensive which I acquired used a decade ago… ?Rockler may have a cheaper approach. ?? ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io Sent: Monday, March 8, 2021 9:49 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors ? I have only used it once almost 2 yrs ago but found that I had to mess with it a bit to ensure the jaws are parallel. The bit was also not sharp but that is not a fault. There is no cushioning on clamp faces but that is normally not a concern with hard wood. It does not offer any alignment aid from door to jamb, so you are working with your markings. Keep in mind that I bought it used so my issue could be due to wear. Once you get used to Festool (generally good quality) it is easy to find fault. I also think $400-$500 (templaco that Chris shared) is a bit much for what you get. On the other hand it did work on my door that was 2.25” thick. Are there any other kind available? ? Thanks Imran. It looks like Big Horn makes a similar jig. What do you find it’s shortcomings are?
On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:44 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I have Kwikset 91380 which is apparently discontinued. I bought it used. It does the job but I cannot say I love it. ?I am planning to build new passage doors for my house and I am curious what methods, machinery, jigs and techniques people use to for boring for locksets.
Thanks in advance,
Michael
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Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors
Thanks for the ideas guys. I think I will make my own jig out of some 8/4 stock. ? Anyone have a big drill press and a fixture set up for that?
Michael
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On Mar 8, 2021, at 10:49 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Michael,
I have only used it once almost 2 yrs ago but found that I had to mess with it a bit to ensure the jaws are parallel. The bit was also not sharp but that is not a fault. There is no cushioning on clamp faces but that is normally not a concern with hard wood. It does not offer any alignment aid from door to jamb, so you are working with your markings.
Keep in mind that I bought it used so my issue could be due to wear. Once you get used to Festool (generally good quality) it is easy to find fault. I also think $400-$500 (templaco that Chris shared) is a bit much for what you get.
On the other hand it did work on my door that was 2.25” thick.
Are there any other kind available?
Imran
On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:53 AM, Michael Todrin <michaeltodrin@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran. It looks like Big Horn makes a similar jig. What do you find it’s shortcomings are?
Michael On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:44 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I have Kwikset 91380 which is apparently discontinued. I bought it used. It does the job but I cannot say I love it. On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:31 AM, Michael Todrin <michaeltodrin@...> wrote:
?I am planning to build new passage doors for my house and I am curious what methods, machinery, jigs and techniques people use to for boring for locksets.
Thanks in advance,
Michael
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Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors
Michael,
I have only used it once almost 2 yrs ago but found that I had to mess with it a bit to ensure the jaws are parallel. The bit was also not sharp but that is not a fault. There is no cushioning on clamp faces but that is normally not a concern with hard wood. It does not offer any alignment aid from door to jamb, so you are working with your markings.
Keep in mind that I bought it used so my issue could be due to wear. Once you get used to Festool (generally good quality) it is easy to find fault. I also think $400-$500 (templaco that Chris shared) is a bit much for what you get.
On the other hand it did work on my door that was 2.25” thick.
Are there any other kind available?
Imran
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Show quoted text
On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:53 AM, Michael Todrin <michaeltodrin@...> wrote: ? Thanks Imran. It looks like Big Horn makes a similar jig. What do you find it’s shortcomings are?
Michael On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:44 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I have Kwikset 91380 which is apparently discontinued. I bought it used. It does the job but I cannot say I love it. On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:31 AM, Michael Todrin <michaeltodrin@...> wrote:
?I am planning to build new passage doors for my house and I am curious what methods, machinery, jigs and techniques people use to for boring for locksets.
Thanks in advance,
Michael
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David P. Best
imran
JP Rice
Tom Gensmer
Joe Jensen